Читать книгу The Felted Bag Book - Susie Johns - Страница 9

Basic information

The materials and equipment needed to make a felted bag will vary according to the technique you have chosen to use – whether it is wet felting, knitting, crochet or recycling. If you turn to the beginning of each chapter, you will find a more detailed list of all the items you will require.

Many craft shops and yarn shops carry a range of specialist materials for felting, such as wool fleece, yarns, crochet hooks and needles, and some can be real treasure troves when it comes to other items such as buttons, bag handles and clasps. However there is no doubt that, with the demise of many of the small local wool shops that once graced every high street, buying on the internet has made specialist shopping a whole lot easier; you will find a whole range of useful materials and equipment by typing ‘felting’ into a search engine, or by browsing online craft catalogues.

Hoarders among you may find a use for old wool and cashmere sweaters (even those that have been attacked by moths) and stashes of knitting yarn. Those who enjoy browsing in junk shops and flea markets should be on the lookout for pure wool garments that can be recycled, as well as second-hand knitting needles, crochet hooks, buttons and old handbags that can be dismantled or deconstructed, giving attractive handles, buckles or clasps a new lease of life.

Try techniques such as needle felting (top) on small swatches, and knit (or crochet) a small test piece (bottom) before tackling a larger project

Wool

The most important material is, of course, wool. This may come in the form of wool tops, which is wool fleece that has been carded (combed) so that all the fibres run in the same direction. It is sold in thick lengths, like a rope, and is used for wet felting and needle felting. The desired quantity can be gently teased away, or the whole rope, or part of it, can be rolled to make bag handles and straps.

Perhaps a more familiar way to purchase wool is in spun form, in skeins, hanks or balls. These can be used to make knitted or crocheted fabrics, which can then be felted by shrinking them in the washing machine.

Ready-made woollen garments, such as scarves, sweaters, shawls and woollen blankets, can also be turned into felt. This is a great way to recycle fabrics that may otherwise be consigned to landfill.

AFTER-CARE: Remember to treat felted items as you would any woollen items. Dry cleaning is recommended. If you prefer washing, it is best to do this by hand; you may be able to wash them in your washing machine on a wool cycle. Washing may distort the shape and you will probably have to ease them back into shape while damp.

You can also buy ready-made felt, manufactured from wool or a wool-viscose mix, for quick and easy results. Do not confuse this with the squares of craft felt available in art shops and toy stores, which is not suitable for use in any of the projects in this book.

Lining

Most of the projects in this book do not require to be lined. Knitted and crocheted felt, when shrunk in a washing machine, tends to produce a thick, firm fabric, and wet felt can be made to your preferred thickness, depending on how many layers of fibres you build up.

Recycled felt, meanwhile, where you shrink existing garments or other woollen items in hot water, can vary depending on the original thickness. If the resulting felted fabric is a little too soft or stretchy, a lining may help to give it substance and make it more hard-wearing.

As well as reinforcing your bag, a lining can also provide a soft, smooth interior, in contrast to the warm, woolly texture of the felt.

To line a bag, choose a plain or patterned silk, cotton or synthetic fabric. Measure the bag and cut the fabric to fit the front and back, as well as the base and sides for a deeper bag, adding 2 cm (¾ in) all round for seams and turnings. You should aim to make your fabric lining into a bag of the same dimensions as the bag to be lined. Next place the lining inside the bag, with wrong sides together, then turn under any raw edges and slipstitch the fold to the top of the bag. To make the lining as inconspicuous as possible, position it a little way down from the top edge of the bag.

ABBREVIATIONS

beg	begin(ning)
cm	centimetre(s)
dc	double crochet
dec	decrease
in	inch(es)
inc	increase
k	knit
mm	millimetres
p	purl
psso	pass slipped stitch over
rep	repeat
st 1	slip one stitch
st(s)	stitch(es)
tbl	through back of loop(s)
tog	together
*	repeat instructions between asterisks as many times as instructed
()	work instructions inside brackets as many times as instructed

Look out for beautiful buttons for the perfect finishing touch. Sew on firmly with a needle and strong thread.

To line handles and straps, you can use the same fabric or – better still – use a length of ribbon or tape the same width as, or slightly narrower than, the handle. Velvet ribbon is a good choice for this, as it creates a slip-proof handle that will sit comfortably on your shoulder (as with Mary, on page 44).

To further reinforce the bag, you may wish to create an interlining. This is probably best made from a non- woven interfacing, which is available in a range of different weights. For a really rigid result, choose pelmet interfacing, which is very firm and will hold its shape; it is particularly good for boxy-shaped bags. Plastic canvas, usually sold alongside tapestry canvasses, can also be employed, particularly for reinforcing bag bases – as with Eve, on page 59.

Rigid handles can give a professional finish. These are acrylic, but also look out for wood and bamboo.

Fastenings

Buttons come in different shapes, sizes and materials and are the perfect choice for a simple fastening. Check out craft shops for other fastenings too, as it is easy to substitute one that really catches your eye for any of those used in the book.

Press fasteners are useful for keeping bag flaps closed (see page 42 for an example of this). You may also wish to consider a magnetic closure for a more professional finish. These come in two main parts, with metal washers, and are easy to insert into the fabric, and to attach with the help of a hammer or pliers (see pages 54–55 for instructions on how to do this).

Experiment with fastenings and closures, such as press fasteners, magnets, zips and hinged clasps.

Handles

Most of the bags in the book have felt handles but in some cases handles made from other materials have been used. Look for wooden, acrylic and bamboo handles, as well as chains and cords, to ring the changes.

Tools

Aside from the equipment listed in each chapter, make sure you have a good pair of sturdy dressmaking scissors for cutting felted fabric, a smaller pair of scissors for snipping threads, and another pair of scissors that can be used for cutting paper and other materials for templates and patterns.

A large, sharp embroidery needle is useful for stitching through one or more thickness of felt, especially with embroidery threads, while a blunt-ended tapestry needle with a large eye is essential for joining knitted or crocheted pieces prior to felting. An all-purpose sewing needle is also used throughout the book, with ordinary sewing thread.

Cord handles and straps can be stitched directly to a felt bag or attached using various rings and clips.

You will need a tape measure for measuring pattern pieces and a rigid ruler for checking tension swatches and drawing straight lines.

Pens and pencils are always useful; a water-erasable or fading fabric marker is a good choice for making temporary marks on fabric, while an ordinary pencil or ballpoint pen can also be used for marking fabric, as well as patterns and templates.

Some of the templates on pages 106–109 have been reduced in size to fit them on the page, so it would be useful to have access to a photocopier, to enlarge these.