Читать книгу Narrative of a Voyage Round the World - T. B. Wilson - Страница 5

Table of Contents

Intention to remain a short time by the ship frustrated—Voyage in the boats commenced—Arrival at Half-way Island—Departure for Booby Island—Progress obstructed by reefs and sandbanks—Discover a group of islets—Land on one of them—Transactions there—Description of the group—Duncan's Isles—Departure.

AS it would have been imminently dangerous to proceed in the boats during the night, we decided to keep close to the ship till break of day. Accordingly, the boats were made fast to each other, and the long-boat attached to the flying gib-boom by a rope of considerable length, which one of our party was in readiness to cut, should the ship go down. The advantage of the caution used in loading the boats was now apparent; the gunwale of the long-boat being within a very little distance of the water, and she was leaking so much, that it required the constant labour of two hands to keep her free; but we hoped she would take up before morning.

Being now in a state of inaction, we had time to reflect on our altered situation. A few hours ago, we were in the enjoyment of every comfort compatible with a seafaring life,—a justly-grounded prospect of an agreeable and prosperous voyage, and, at no distant period, a happy meeting with our friends in our native land:—now, our only hope of personal safety depended on a leaky boat, necessarily overloaded, an intricate and dangerous navigation around us, many hundred miles distant from the nearest abode of civilised man! Our misfortunes, however, pressed less heavily, in consequence of there being no females to share them.

To others differently situated, the night might have appeared exceedingly beautiful, as the moon, and her starry train, shone with that splendour peculiar to the torrid zone; but to us it was long and dreary, and we hailed with delight the first appearance of dawning day. In the morning. Captain Young and myself went on board. I was anxious to save some manuscripts and other papers of value, but the sea having taken possession of my cabin, rendered the attempt useless. As the alarm, caused by the apprehension that the ship would suddenly sink, had subsided, several of the sailors came on board, ostensibly for the purpose of obtaining a little more rope, canvass, and wood; but their real design (to search for spirits) being suspected, was soon perceived and prevented.

It was our intention to remain by the ship for a short time, to put the long-boat in some order, and to fit her with sails; but, being convinced that no good was to be expected from the sailors while spirits were within their reach,—to prevent the fatal consequences that might ensue from longer delay, it was deemed expedient to defer these necessary operations till our arrival at Half-way Island. All on board were therefore ordered to come into the boats instantly; but the order, although we showed the example, not being obeyed with so much alacrity as it was last evening, we threatened to depart without them, and had actually shoved off; they then quitted the ship with reluctant speed, without having obtained either their apparent or real object. To the general credit of the crew, however, I ought to mention that only a very few acted in this manner—by far the greater number conducting themselves with becoming steadiness—yet it was not deemed prudent to trust too much to their self-denial in this respect.

Although many disheartening circumstances conspired to render the issue of our enterprise a matter of great uncertainty, yet being aware that despondency could only make bad worse, we commenced with confidence our perilous voyage, invoking the aid of Divine Providence, by whose protecting influence we might be shielded from the numerous and varied dangers that were and would be continually hovering around us. Our course was directed to Half-way Island; and the breeze being fresh, our ruined ship soon receded through the growing waters—all of us casting many a "lingering look behind",—until her loftiest sails, yet fluttering in the wind, were hid from view by the horizon, now beautifully adorned by the rays of the rising sun.

After having passed a reef of some extent, which was left on the larboard hand, we experienced a south-easterly swell, and as we had to haul more up, the spray dashed incessantly over us, rendering us not only very uncomfortable, but doing much injury, particularly to the biscuit.

About eleven o'clock, A.M., we reached the island, and our first care was to spread out the biscuit to dry; those who were in the other boats followed our example, although some thoughtless youngsters, being about to amuse themselves, as if on a party of pleasure, had to be reminded of their duty. As our mast, the top-gallant studding-sail boom, had already been sprung, it was fished with an oar; and our boat was fitted, in a temporary way, with a tarpawling bulwark.

In the meantime, the cook was busy in the exercise of his vocation; a fire was kindled, and a pig (two having found their way into the boat) was killed, and dressed for dinner; to which we assembled with keen appetites, in a romantic spot, shaded from the sun by the luxuriant foliage of a natural grove. The resemblance, in some respects, to a pic-nic party, tended to exhilarate our spirits; and the sailors, who in general have much repugnance to alloy present enjoyment by any cares about the future, were quite happy and jocose.

Dinner being finished, we prepared to renew our journey. In case of accidental separation, a week's provisions were issued to the skiff and jolly-boat, and it was judged prudent to divide at once the brandy equally to the boats, according to the number of persons in each. To do this equitably, it behoved us to collect all that might be in the other boats, for we had only a very small quantity in the long-boat, in consequence of the unaccountable disappearance of a five-gallon keg full.

A good deal of ill humour was manifested by the officer in charge of one of the boats, when requested to increase the general stock, by the production of a considerable quantity which he had snugly stowed away for particular service. He was very reluctant to give it up, insisting that, de jure, it was his own property. However that might be, it was, ex necessitate rei, added to the common stock, which was then divided, with strict impartiality, as were also a few bottles of wine and porter, which had been placed in our boat by the steward. The biscuit, being now dry, was put into bags, and protected as much as possible from future damage, by being covered with tarpawling.

Every thing being placed in the boats, about six, P.M., we left this islet. Perhaps we acted rather imprudently, by not remaining until the morning; but, as we could not procure any water here, and as it was in other respects inconvenient, we were anxious to get forward to Booby Island, where we purposed to complete our arrangements, and which it was expected we should reach next evening. We shaped our course for Wednesday Island, and directed the other boats to keep ahead, as they drew much less water. However, they, in a very short time, fell astern, and we led the way, keeping a sharp look out, to avoid reefs and sand-banks.

About eight o'clock, we were alarmed by repeated reports of musketry; our sail was instantly lowered, and in a few minutes we saw both boats, and learned that all was well, and that the firing had proceeded from the jolly-boat, the crew of which, it appeared, had imprudently drunk their whole allowance of spirits.

About midnight, land, apparently a small island, was discovered,* bearing west. We hauled to the northward, and soon perceived another island on our larboard beam, and a third on our larboard bow. We had not continued our course for to the northward, when the well known and dreaded sound of breakers was distinctly heard right a-head. We instantly wore, and stood to the southward, intending to pass between the first and second islands, by a passage that appeared two or three miles wide; but it being probable that the channel might be strewed with reefs; and the moon only affording a very dubious light,—rendered more deceitful by a hazy atmosphere,—it was, on deliberation, considered more prudent to stand off and on, in sight of the first made island, until break of day.

[* In the first instance, we imagined this to be Mount Adolphus, but it was not so. From the haziness of the atmosphere, and the horizon being undefined, we could not ascertain our latitude from the altitude of any of the stars, and although the attempt was made, the result could not be depended on.]

At length the wished-for morning appeared, and discovered to us three islands, low and woody, in the same meridian; and from the northernmost a reef, from which we had during the night so narrowly escaped, extending to the eastward as far as the eye could reach.

As the channel between the southern and middle islands appeared the best, we determined to pass through it, and directed the other boats to precede us; but instead of doing so, they fell into our wake. We found the passage deep, and free from reefs. Two natives were seen running along the starboard shore, seemingly, by their gestures, intreating us to land; but we passed on, without taking advantage of their apparently earnest invitation.

We had only proceeded a short distance, when two islands were descried, which, from their appearance and relative position, were supposed to be Double and Wednesday Islands; to the latter we directed our course, and about eleven o'clock passed within a mile of its northern extremity. Then, in accordance with Horsburgh's directions, we steered W.N.W. to avoid a dangerous reef; but we had not advanced far in this direction, when a high peaked hill came into view; and very shortly afterwards, continuous and relatively low land was discovered, trending to the north, and also to the south-west of it. We were obliged to haul up S.S.W. before the visible extremity of the latter bore on our starboard bow.

We were now greatly embarrassed, and in much doubt respecting our position, which, as noon was fast approaching, and the sky overcast, there did not seem to be any probability of ascertaining: to add to our uneasiness, the rain fell in heavy and frequent showers, accompanied by strong squalls, which were driving us nearer than agreeable to the lee-shore, on which we could discern the sea breaking heavily.

Contrary to expectation, however, the sun burst through the clouds at noon, as if on purpose to show his meridian altitude, and then withdrew. Having ascertained our latitude to be 10° 16' south, we were convinced of what we had before conjectured, that the land on our lee was Banks' Island.** We stood on, and succeeded in weathering its south-western point; and then we observed that it trended to the north-west.

[** Previously to our latitude being thus satisfactorily known, we suspected that we had got to the northward, and that the peaked hill to the westward was Mount Augustus, but our latitude being 10° 16', and the hitherto supposed Wednesday Island bearing at this time to the northward of east, according with its latitude as laid down in Horsburgh's Directory, and in Lynn's Tables, we were completely puzzled. We did not imagine that these books could be both erroneous in this respect. Such, however, is the fact; Wednesday Island being in latitude 10° 30', in place of 10° 10', as it is laid down in both these justly esteemed publications. Pole's Island (that which we supposed Wednesday Island) is in latitude 10° 10' exactly.]

In a short time, the sea, which had hitherto been turbulent, became suddenly as smooth as a mill-pond, which convinced us that we were in the vicinity of reefs; and it was not long before an extensive sand-bank impeded our farther progress. We altered our course S.W., W., and N.W., running along the edge of the shoal, which extended farther than the eye could reach in a parallel direction with Banks' Island. A scattered group of islands, unknown to us, to the westward, being now in sight, we, (being foiled in our attempt to reach Booby Island, and our boat having become more leaky,) determined to take shelter near one of them, and should it afford us water, to complete our arrangements there.

We made several attempts to find a passage through this extensive reef, without success, but at length, by perseverance and caution, we happily found a way by a long, narrow, and tortuous channel, from one to two fathoms deep; and about five o'clock, P.M., we leaped ashore on a fine sandy beach, in a small bay, on the north side of an island situated nearly in the centre of the group; and we were soon joined by the other boats, which had cautiously kept in our wake.

We all rejoiced to be once again on shore, and our first care was to search for water. The Captain and myself proceeded to a spot that seemed, by the freshness of the surrounding vegetation, to indicate the presence of that inestimable fluid, and, in a few minutes, to our great satisfaction, we discovered a large reservoir as clear as crystal, and of excellent quality. Having been, since the shipwreck, on very short allowance of this necessary of life, we indulged in copious and unrestrained potations; and then took a run along the shore to stretch our limbs, which were dreadfully stiff and cramped, by the confined posture in the boat.

A pleasing instance occurred here, of the effect of our conduct at Half-way Island. One of the officers came, by request of those in the boat of which he had charge, to mention, that having found a keg of brandy, they wished to deliver it up for general distribution. Although we suspected that, as in the other boat, it had been purposely secreted, the keg bearing a strong resemblance to that which had so unaccountably disappeared from us,—yet, gratified by their repentance, we gave them due praise for their disinterested conduct.

To those who are acquainted with a sailor's predilection for a glass of grog, and of his not being fastidiously particular, at times, as to the mode of obtaining it, their conduct, in this instance, must appear a convincing proof of what may be effected by strict impartiality.

The cook having got his utensils on shore, soon provided us with boiling water, and we enjoyed our tea, not feeling the want of sugar, which the salt water had completely destroyed. Being all fatigued, and inclined to sleep, we made preparations to retire to rest. Directions were given to keep the boats afloat, and arrangements were entered into to guard against the possible consequences of sudden surprise; and also to receive, in a friendly way, any of the natives who, from curiosity, or from any other cause, might pay us a visit during our slumbers. Captain Young, and myself, chose a spot, protected from the night-wind by a large block of granite, and within a short distance of high-water-mark, where—our bed the sand,—our canopy the sky,—we were soon lulled asleep by the soothing sound of the hollow breeze, and the mournful melody of the murmuring sea.

Nothing occurred during the night to disturb us, and we did not awake till daylight, when we found ourselves much renovated by our uninterrupted repose. At an early hour we assembled, and partook of breakfast, consisting of cocoa, biscuit, and delicious oysters, which were found here, and caught in abundance at low water.

The receding tide having left the boats a-ground, the carpenter's first care was, to examine into the state of the long-boat. His report was exceedingly unfavourable. Besides standing much in need of caulking, and other repairs, it was discovered that the worms had committed sad havoc, several of the planks in her bottom being in an alarmingly decayed state, from their depredations. In short, the carpenter was afraid to meddle with her, lest he might make affairs worse,—but it was absolutely necessary that something should be done. We had no pitch, but we had a considerable quantity of oakum, and the carpenter was directed to chintz the worst places very gently, and afterwards to apply some tallow, and then to nail canvas over all. These operations being completed, he was to fix the tarpawling bulwark in a more secure and efficient manner, that we might be protected from the disagreeable intrusion of the spray. The other boats being in good order, and well-found, only required a bulwark, or railing, to render them completely sea-worthy.

The sail-makers were directed to convert the fore-royal into a lug-sail, and to make a jib from some spare canvas, that we might be enabled to make progress on a wind. The remainder of the crew were employed variously: some were picking bread, others filling water, some gathering oysters, and others cruizing about, in search of adventures, or amusing themselves with the loquacious prattle of a favourite cockatoo, which had been, by general consent, permitted to accompany us.

The Captain and his officers took several observations of the sun's altitude, which they were enabled to do by walking to the north-east side of the island. As the western extremity of Mulgrave Island bore due north of us, distant six or eight miles, and as no other land in that direction intervened, the sky being clear, and the horizon distinctly defined, we were enabled to obtain the meridian altitude of the sun to a great nicety; and the latitude thence deduced, by means of three observers, with well-adjusted sextants, was 10° 13' 27" south.

The carpenter and sail-makers having been very industrious, had completed their labours early in the afternoon; and we contemplated, with satisfaction, our worm-eaten boat, pretty well patched up, and properly fitted with a lug-sail and jib, a bowsprit having been formed from an oar. The bulwark, although grotesque and rude, was firmly attached by stanchions, formed from boughs of a species of pandanus, which, without knowing, or indeed caring, whether or not we were botanically correct, we named, on that account, pandanus utilis.

Several altitudes of the sun were taken in the afternoon, to check and to compare with those taken in the morning; thence to ascertain the apparent time with greater accuracy. The bread having been carefully dried and picked, was stowed away in the boat, and protected from the wet beneath, by dunnage; and from the rain or spray; by tarpawling; while that which was beginning to spoil was kept for present use.

These things being all arranged, we assembled at dinner, consisting of salt beef, fresh pork, and abundance of oysters; and it was deemed advisable, in consequence of most of us having been exposed to the rays of a powerful sun, to issue a double allowance of grog. The sailors, with characteristic levity, were in high glee, and quite delighted with their fare.

Dinner being finished, and the sun's horizontal rays not being oppressive. Captain Young, his officers, and myself, climbed to the highest part of the island, and took a general view of those adjacent, and observed their relative bearings, by an azimuth compass. On returning, we were saluted with the glad tidings that the long-boat, now afloat, leaked very little.

In the evening we re-assembled, when a short address was made to the sailors, explanatory of our projected future proceedings. The dangers, that might reasonably be expected to befall us during the way, were pointed out, and also the means of averting or combating them successfully; the sailors were complimented on their hitherto general good conduct, which it was hoped would continue to merit praise, as influencing materially the favourable issue of our enterprise.

The scene was impressive and picturesque;—the numerous blazing fires, which the sailors had for pastime kindled along the shore, completely illumined the small bay in which the boats, all ready for departure, were now floating, and threw a lurid glare on the hardy, weather-worn countenances of the assembled group, who were ever and anon reminded of their unenviable situation, by a sudden blast of the breeze, or a sullen threatening roar of the ruthless sea.—Place, time, and circumstances, thus conspiring to excite and cherish gloomy ideas, those who looked beyond the present moment could not avoid being somewhat depressed, in spite of every effort to be, as well as to appear, cheerful and unconcerned.

Watches were placed in situations commanding a good look out, with directions how to act, should any strangers make their appearance during the night,—precautionary measures to prevent surprise, being now rendered doubly necessary; as it was reasonable to suppose, that the natives, (distinct and recent traces of whom had been observed during the day,) might be attracted to the spot by the fires, which were blazing in all directions around us. After these arrangements, we severally betook ourselves to rest.

The spot where the Captain and myself slept last night, had been, by the care of some of our comrades, converted into a very pretty bower,—branches of trees being interwoven on the east and west sides of the rock, the ensign spread over the top, soft twigs strewed on the sand, and the whole ornamented with various flowers. We were pleased with this spontaneous attention, and slept soundly till about two o'clock in the morning, when we got up, for the purpose of making some observations, with a view to determine the longitude; the distance between "Jupiter" and the Moon's remote, and between "Fomalhaut" and her near limb, were measured carefully several times; and the observations thus made being reserved for calculation, when time and place might be more convenient, the observers resumed their repose till the dawn of day.

As soon as daylight appeared, preparations were made for our departure; before embarking, I recommended, both by precept and example, a long swim,—to exercise and fatigue the limbs, now about to be cramped and confined for some time. We also thought it not amiss to take a good breakfast, which the cooks, who had been early at work, had prepared for us. This being finished, every utensil capable of containing water was filled therewith; and all being properly arranged in the boats, about six o'clock, A.M., of the 22d of May, we left the island, not without regret, yet pleased, that we should no longer be annoyed with reefs and sand-banks. Not wishing to run the risk of finding a clear passage between any of the islands, we steered to the northward of the group,* and then directed our course W. by S. across the gulf of Carpentaria.

[* This group consists of fourteen small islands; the largest not being more than three miles in length, and about one and a half in breadth.

The island at which we stopped was of considerable height. The trees were of stunted growth; the grass was luxuriant, and the water in abundance. On the (granite) pinnacle of the island, we observed an immense collection of stones, resembling a cairn; and as we imagined it served the same purpose, we did not fail to increase the heap by a liberal contribution. High water occurs at about 2h 30' after the Moon's culmination, and the tide rises from eight to ten feet. The latitude, as already observed, is 10° 13' 27" south, and the longitude, (by lunar observations, and by chronometer corrected from the Eastern Fields,) is 141° 56' 36", east. Neither Captain Flinders nor Captain King went so far north, and therefore did not notice these islands; which, in compliment to the Honourable Captain Duncan, R.N., we named Duncan's Isles.]