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Оглавление2: Preparing for Your New Dog
Whether you are a seasoned dog owner or you are completely new to canine companionship, taking your dog home for the first time is an exciting event. New dog owners may feel a bit overwhelmed by homecoming day, though. What if you forget an important item that your pet needs? What should you do if he gets sick or injured? What if your new dog slips out the door and gets away from you?
Fortunately, a little planning goes a long way when it comes to pet ownership. Perhaps you have picked out a puppy and are waiting for him to be old enough to come home with you, or maybe you are adopting a dog from a rescue group and need to pick him up in a few days from his foster home. In either case, you can use this waiting period to make sure that both you and your home are ready for your new arrival.
Equipment, Supplies, and Accessories
The sheer number of items that a dog needs is a big part of why pet ownership can seem overwhelming at first, but you will need to buy many of these things only once. Think of your dog’s crate, bowls, and grooming equipment as investments rather than expenses; they should last for many years. Certainly, consumable items like your dog’s food and shampoo will need replenishing periodically, but he probably won’t run out of everything at once.
Crate
You can help your dog feel right at home by having his crate all set up before he walks through the door for the first time. A crate—or kennel, as it is often called—is the perfect place for your pet to eat meals, take naps, and enjoy special treats. Using a crate can also help with housetraining because dogs are known for not wanting to soil the areas in which they rest.
Rigid plastic carriers with plenty of ventilation are the best choice for traveling with your dog.
Pet-supply retailers sell several different types of kennels. You can choose between hard plastic models, wire crates, soft-sided kennels, and even decorative pet enclosures that double as end tables. The exact type of kennel you need depends on certain factors. First, you must consider all the purposes that this item will serve. Do you plan to take your dog on trips with you? Airlines require rigid-sided pet carriers for safety purposes. These more resilient kennels are also a smart option for traveling by automobile. If your dog’s crate will remain in a fixed location, you might opt for a wire model. A wire crate offers a dog a special place of his own while simultaneously making it easy for him to see all of what’s going on around him. The more social your dog is, the more he may prefer a wire crate. You can always place a blanket or towel over the crate for privacy when needed. Another important consideration is your dog’s age. A puppy is much more likely than an adult dog to chew a crate made of plastic or one with cloth (usually canvas) or mesh sides.
A crate with soft bedding makes a comfortable den for your puppy or adult dog.
Place your dog’s kennel in a location that will allow him to rest without feeling too far away from the action of the household. A corner of the kitchen or living room is ideal. Remote locations of your home are usually a bad idea because they typically isolate your pet from the rest of the family. You don’t want your dog to view spending time in his crate as a social-deprivation experiment.
Once you set up the kennel, leave the door open so your dog can go inside as soon as he likes. Place a toy or other treat in the crate to encourage him to investigate the enclosure. Don’t forget to add a crate pad or other type of bedding for comfort. If your dog is still a puppy, you may want to use an old blanket until he becomes reliably housetrained. Some pups will chew on crate pads, so waiting a while to purchase one could save you from having to buy several. I still use a blanket with my two-year-old dog, Jemma, because she has “de-stuffed” three crate pads to date.
SIZING THINGS UP
Choosing the right size crate for your dog is essential. The ideal kennel offers your pet enough space to stand up and turn around comfortably. While it might seem like an indulgence to buy your dog a crate that is far more spacious than he needs, doing so is a bad idea. If you are planning to implement crate training as part of the housetraining process, a crate that is too big will likely negate its housetraining perks. A resourceful dog is likely to create his own “bathroom” at one end of a too-large enclosure and still have plenty of space to lie down. If your dog is still a puppy, look for a crate that will accommodate his adult size, but block off part of the crate in the beginning. A piece of cardboard can serve this purpose, although some crate models come with their own divider panels.
If you have an adult dog, it is important to measure him as well as the crate you choose for him. After measuring your dog’s height and length, add about 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 centimeters) to each measurement. These two totals should equal the respective height and length of the crate you select for your pet.
The chart on the opposite page offers an overview of the most popular crate sizes, as well as examples of the breeds and sizes that these crates most commonly serve. If you have a mixed-breed dog, select a crate based on what you know about his background. A Beagle-Pug crossbreed, for example, typically grows to be closer to the size of a Beagle than to that of a Pug.
Crate Alternatives
I adopted my mixed-breed dog, Jemma, when she was about five months old, and I began crate training her right away. While she has never shown any fear or discomfort toward her kennel, it is important to note that crates aren’t right for all dogs. They tend to be poor choices for dogs who began their lives in puppy mills. Animals who have been kept in crates for unreasonable amounts of time can develop a phobia of crates. In these cases, it is best to skip the crate altogether. When used correctly, safety gates can serve a similar purpose without stressing out the dog.
Leashes
The only safe way to take your new dog home is on a leash. Your pet will also need to be on leash when going for walks and any other time you take him out in public. In addition to keeping dogs safe, leashes are required by law in many municipalities. A leash will also come in handy when training your new pet.
At one time, leashes occupied only a small part of an aisle in most pet-supply stores. Today, however, leashes can take up an entire aisle all by themselves. The materials, functions, and prices of these items can vary dramatically. Owners can choose from a wide range of leash colors and patterns in a variety of options, including conventional fixed-length leashes, extendable leashes with ergonomic plastic handles, and leashes with attachments that hold small rolls of cleanup bags.
The best first leash for an average-sized dog is a simple 6-foot leash made from a sturdy material. For larger dogs, you’ll need a wider leash, but smaller pets fare better with narrower leads, which tend to weigh less. Likewise, a small dog or one with a delicate neck, such as a Greyhound, should never be walked on a heavy leash made of chain.
Leather leads often hold up better than those made from cloth, but they are typically more expensive. Cloth leads come in many choices, though, such as nylon and hemp. The latter is a highly renewable resource, so it’s environmentally friendly as well as economical.
Some brands are marketed as “chew-proof” or “indestructible,” and choosing one of these leads may be wise if your dog is still a puppy. If your pup chews on his leash when you walk him, you can teach him to discontinue this behavior, but until he has reliably stopped chewing, going with a chew-proof brand is a smart move.
You may choose to invest in more than one leash for your pet. Perhaps you want a longer lead for walking your pet in large, open areas. Most trainers discourage owners from using an extendable (retractable) leash because it is more difficult to control a dog’s behavior with this device. A retractable lead must be inspected regularly to make sure the cord has not frayed. Still, many owners enjoy using this type of leash, which allows them to walk their dogs at a 4-foot length, a 26-foot length, or anywhere in between. If you go this route, just make sure that the leash you select can safely accommodate your dog’s size. And use added caution if you wear shorts, skirts, or other warm-weather clothing, because this type of lead can inflict nasty burns or cuts if it wraps around a bare leg.
A sturdy leather leash should give you years of use.
A retractable lead is housed inside a plastic handle, and the leash extends or retracts with the push of a button.
Consider a Halter or Harness
A great option for walking an overly enthusiastic dog is a head halter. This specially designed harness helps prevent a dog from pulling without tightening around his neck. Two simple straps wrap around your pet’s muzzle and neck, placing the ring for attaching his leash just below your dog’s chin. If he pulls while walking on his leash, this collar will pull his head downward and toward you, interrupting his motion. A head halter can help solve a pulling problem quickly without causing your dog any pain.
Head halter
For a correct fit, the halter’s nose strap should sit just underneath your dog’s eyes, and the strap around his neck should sit as high up as possible—just behind your dog’s ears. Like a conventional collar, a head halter should fit your pet snugly yet comfortably. Unlike a regular collar, though, you should be able to fit only a single finger between a head halter and your dog’s neck. A proper fit ensures that your dog won’t slip out of the collar.
Harness
A harness is another option. With a front-clip harness, the ring for the leash is located at the center of the chest strap. If your dog pulls while wearing this type of harness, it pulls him around toward you. This interruption to his movement will discourage him from pulling further. While a head halter does not tighten around your dog’s neck, he can still give himself a hard jerk if he runs to the end of his leash too quickly while wearing one; using a harness usually prevents this from happening.
Most dogs adjust to wearing halters or harnesses fairly quickly, but if your pet resists, put it on him for short periods of time indoors to help him acclimate to it. Both head halters and harnesses are designed for on-leash walking, however, and should always be removed once you return home from a walk.
Collars and Harnesses
Like leashes, collars come in a wide variety of materials, colors, and patterns. Some even offer special technology that makes them safer for your pet. Once again, leather is usually the most durable—albeit costliest—option. A less expensive cloth collar may be the better choice if your dog is still a pup, as he will almost certainly outgrow his collar before reaching his adult size. A large-dog owner may have to buy several sizes during the dog’s first year or two, while the owner of a smaller dog may be able to get by with a single collar that adjusts to accommodate the animal’s moderate size increases. To measure your dog for a collar, place a tape measure around his neck and adjust it to the point where you can slip two fingers underneath.
A smart safety feature to look for when shopping for conventional collars is breakaway technology. Because collars can become caught on household objects, many owners choose to remove the collars from their dogs when they are inside their homes. The downside to this is that it leaves the animal without identification tags in the event he slips out the door. A breakaway collar, however, keeps a pet safe indoors by breaking apart if it becomes caught on anything, effectively preventing the collar from strangling the animal. When walking a dog on this type of collar, you must make sure to hook the leash onto both of the loops. With just one loop attached to the leash, even a slight amount of pulling will cause the collar to release.
If your dog has a special talent for slipping out of his collar—or if he is one of those breeds with a delicate neck—a harness may be a better option. Instead of circling your dog’s neck, a harness wraps around your pet’s chest and midsection. To measure your dog for a harness, place the tape measure around his chest, just behind his front legs. Use the same two-finger rule as when measuring for a collar. Many owners find that harnesses also work better for dogs who pull on their leashes.
No Choke Collars!
Choke chains are marketed toward people who own larger dog breeds, with a pervading message that using these items is the only way to control bigger pets. However, a choke chain won’t teach your dog how to walk properly on a lead—that can result only from proper training—and can injure your dog. A choke chain works by applying pressure to the animal’s windpipe when he pulls. For smaller dogs, those with delicate necks, or animals who pull despite the use of a choke chain, this item can be dangerous. No matter how large or unruly your dog may be, you should never under any circumstance use a prong collar, which isn’t safe for any dog.
If you must use a restrictive collar on your pet until he learns to walk nicely on a leash, I recommend using a martingale collar. This type of collar is flat and made of cloth instead of chain. It is more humane than a choke collar because it limits the amount of pressure applied. Fans of martingales often say that these collars apply just enough pressure to get the dog’s attention. If you buy a martingale for leash training, you can use it as a conventional collar once your dog has mastered proper leash etiquette. Simply hook both loops to the lead when you no longer need the collar to counteract pulling.
You should not use any type of restrictive collar, even a martingale, on brachycephalic dogs. These flat-faced breeds, such as the Boxer and Pug, have shorter breathing passages and can suffer from respiratory distress if their breathing is compromised in any way.
Food
While it may seem elementary, food is one of the most important items to have on hand before your new dog’s arrival. In all the excitement and commotion of preparing for a new pet’s homecoming, many owners do not even realize that they’ve overlooked this essential provision until dinnertime. If you’ve had to travel a long distance to pick up your dog and bring him home, he will surely be hungry soon after his arrival—and a young puppy must eat more frequently than an adult dog.
Check with your breeder or foster family to see what kind of food your dog is currently eating. If it is a healthy food and your dog is thriving on it, consider keeping him on it. Even if you plan to switch your pet to a different brand or formula, you will need some of the food he is presently eating. Sudden dietary changes can cause stomach upset in dogs, so veterinarians recommend gradual transitions. For the first day, give your dog only the food he is used to. The stress of moving to a new home can be enough to cause tummy troubles, so wait at least twenty-four hours before starting the changeover.
Begin by replacing a quarter of your dog’s current food with the new type. Keep in mind that dogs typically adjust more quickly to a new food when the protein source is the same. For example, a dog will have an easier time swapping from a chicken-based formula to another brand made with chicken. Continue feeding one-quarter of the new food with three-quarters of the original diet for about a week. The following week, increase the ratio to a 50/50 mix. You can then swap to feeding three-quarters of the new food with just a quarter of the old brand. After four weeks, your dog should be eating full portions of his new formula.
Bowls
Your dog will need at least two bowls: one for his food and one for his water. I recommend investing in two sets of dishes if you can, because doing so will ensure that you always have a clean set when one is being washed. If you plan to use the dishwasher, make sure that the bowls you choose are dishwasher-safe. The easiest way to make sure that your pet’s dishes are dishwasher-safe is to buy stainless steel bowls. Stainless steel is the safest, most durable material for dog dishes. Ceramic bowls can contain lead. Plastic dishes are vulnerable to chewing and can also cause a condition called plastic dish nasal dermatitis, which can remove the pigment from his nose and lips.
Choose bowls that will be big enough for your pet when he reaches adulthood, providing that he can eat and drink from them comfortably now. If your dog is going to grow considerably, it may be wise to purchase one smaller set of dishes for the time being. Shallow bowls with raised centers, made specifically for puppies, are perfect for this situation, as these dishes prevent the food from moving away from the edges. Once your dog gains some size, you will then be able to invest in a set or two of larger bowls.
Stainless steel bowls are safe for your dog and easy to clean.
Grooming Equipment and Supplies
Your list of grooming equipment and supplies will vary depending on the kind of dog you choose. Longhaired breeds typically require far more coiffing than those with shorter coats, but even shorthaired dogs need to be brushed and bathed at least occasionally. Many smooth-coated breeds are among the heaviest shedders. Longer, fuller coats require slicker brushes whereas shorter, finer hair needs a soft-bristled brush. A metal flea comb is a smart investment no matter the coat type. If you do opt for a dog with a profuse coat that grows rather than sheds, you will also need a set of clippers for trimming his hair unless you plan to use a professional groomer for this task.
Consumable items that your dog will need include shampoo, a toothbrush, canine toothpaste, and ear cleaner. Do not use your own shampoo or toothpaste on your pet! Shampoos formulated for people are too acidic for canines and will strip the natural oils from your dog’s coat and skin. Likewise, your toothpaste isn’t meant for dogs; using it on your pet’s teeth will likely upset his stomach. You may discover other tools and products that help with grooming once you get into a routine with your pet, but the aforementioned items are the essentials for every dog owner’s grooming kit.
A fine-toothed comb can help detangle delicate facial furnishings.
Did You Know?
Even if you do utilize a groomer’s services, you will need a set of nail clippers. Your groomer can certainly trim your dog’s toenails during a groom, but this important task must be performed more often than shampoos or haircuts.
Toys
Dogs are incredibly intelligent animals. As such, they need ways to stimulate their minds and occupy their time. Dogs also need to exercise regularly in order to stay healthy physically. Many breeds also have instinctive urges to hunt, chase, or herd. Toys help fulfill all of these important needs. Playing with your dog is a great way to bond with him, train him, and have a whole lot of fun in the process yourself.
There is no magic number when it comes to buying toys for your dog, but it is wise to provide your pet with enough variety to keep him from becoming bored. Many dogs single out a few favorite playthings that they turn to over and over, but having something new to play with can brighten a pet’s day as much as it would a child’s. I recommend investing in several different toys to start your dog’s toy collection: a ball, something that squeaks or makes another fun noise, and a chewable item should all be included on your initial shopping list. Over time, you can add to your dog’s toys, rotating items in and out of the toy box to keep your pet’s interest level high. It is also important to throw away any items that could be dangerous—for instance, a chew toy that your pet has whittled down to a size that makes it a choking hazard.
Bear in mind that some toys require a human partner. That ball, for instance, won’t be much fun for your dog without someone to throw it for him. For this reason, make sure your pet has items that he can use to entertain himself when you cannot participate. Some dogs especially enjoy educational toys, such as balls that dispense treats when rolled just the right way and complex puzzle toys that offer similar edible rewards when solved; these “brain games” will help exercise your dog’s mind.
Whatever type of toys your dog prefers, make sure that the ones you offer him are size-appropriate and sturdy. Be sure to keep a few of his favorites on hand. They will be especially useful when it comes time for teaching your dog the Drop It and Leave It commands; favorite toys are also excellent alternatives to edible training rewards.
Dogs often enjoy interactive toys that encourage their owners to join the fun.
Gates
Safety gates are among the most important tools for creating a safe environment for your dog. Puppies, in particular, can be inquisitive to the point of placing themselves in danger. Many adult dogs, too, have a tendency to get into trouble at times, whether in the form of rummaging in the trash or chewing on their owners’ belongings. While you should puppy-proof as much of your home as possible, you will inevitably find gates helpful in one way or another, whether or not your dog also uses a crate.
Sometimes you don’t need to crate your dog, but you want to keep him out of a single room or part of your home for a while. Maybe you’ve just had your wall-to-wall carpeting cleaned and need to keep little feet off it while the fibers dry. Perhaps you are having a bathroom remodeled, and workers will be leaving exterior doors open for extended periods of time as they carry items inside and out. Whatever your reason, a gate can afford your pet with more space than a crate while still protecting him from harm.
If you will be using a gate instead of a crate for your dog, you may consider investing in a model that can be permanently affixed to a doorway. These swing-style gates allow pet owners to walk through quickly and easily, without having to reposition anything but a handle. Of course, if you need a gate in more than one area of your home, a pressure-mounted unit (or multiple gates) may be the better choice. Pressure-mounted gates offer pet owners the flexibility to move them wherever they want without having to install any hardware.
A strategically placed gate limits your dog’s access to certain parts of the house.
Secure Fencing
No matter how much you play with your pet inside, getting outdoors for exercise and fresh air is good for both your pet and you. Daily walks, or jogs for more athletic dogs, are a great way to keep your pet fit and happy. Still, nothing can replace the thrill a dog feels when he can run outside freely. A fenced yard can make it possible for your pet to enjoy exhilarating off-leash playtime every day without putting his safety at risk. Having a fenced yard can also provide your dog with a safe potty spot that he can access with just the opening of the door. If you choose to install a doggy door, he could even head to his potty spot in the fenced yard without any assistance.
Before you allow your dog to spend time in your yard unsupervised, you must make certain that every part of your fence is secure. This structure must not have any gaps through which your dog could escape. It also must not have crossbars that could offer your dog a leg up in climbing over it. Larger breeds can jump over fences that aren’t high enough. Certain breeds, such as terriers, have a talent for digging under fences. Even when you have done everything correctly in securing your fence, you shouldn’t leave your dog unsupervised outside for too long. In addition to keeping your dog safe, your joining him for outdoor time will make the experience a more enjoyable one for your pet.
Your fencing should have no gaps where your dog might squeeze through.
Cleaning Supplies
One of the most important steps in the housetraining process is cleaning up thoroughly after your dog has an accident. Dogs have incredibly sensitive noses, so if your dog detects any trace of urine or fecal matter left behind after a housetraining mishap, it will encourage him to continue using the area as a potty spot.
The first step to removing pet stains and odors is removing the urine or feces. Solid waste can be flushed down your toilet, but urine is a much more complicated matter, especially when your dog pees on a carpet. Clean up puddles as soon as you notice them to prevent the urine from seeping too far into the rug. You may use old towels, rags, or paper towels for this step. Once you have absorbed the majority of the liquid, place a fresh towel over the area and step on it (with a shoe on, of course!). This additional measure will allow you to reach as much of the urine that has soaked into your carpet fibers as possible. Repeat this step until you absorb no more liquid from the soiled area.
The second and equally vital phase of the cleanup process is cleaning the area with an enzymatic cleaner. This type of cleaner will help remove any odors that are still left behind—the ones that a human nose cannot sense. While all enzymatic cleaners rely on proteins to break down stains and odors, it is important that you choose a product made specifically for pets. Whatever you do, never use a cleaner that contains ammonia to clean a housetraining mishap. Because urine itself also contains ammonia, your dog will be even more likely to revisit the spot!
You will also need to clean up after your pet when he eliminates in his proper potty spot outdoors. Any fecal matter left on the ground can breed bacteria. If you or your dog step in excrement, you can transport a variety of dangerous germs into your home. Your pet may even ingest germs this way, placing him at risk for several serious illnesses.
The most efficient way to clean up your dog’s potty spot is with a “poop scoop.” Some are one-piece, hinged units, while others include a small hoe and separate shovel for transporting waste to your garbage can. You may find it helpful to keep a designated lined trash can in your yard for depositing dog waste; be sure to replace the liner each week after trash day.
Although poop scoops are ideal for backyard cleanup, they are typically too cumbersome to bring with you when you walk your dog. For this purpose, you will need to bring along cleanup bags. You can buy rolls of plastic cleanup bags from a pet-supply store, but many owners find that plastic grocery-store bags work perfectly. Whichever style you prefer, the most important thing is remembering to take them with you whenever you walk your dog. Many municipalities have laws about cleaning up after pets. If you don’t remove your dog’s waste from a public place, you could be fined. Since no one enjoys stepping in dog poop, cleaning up after your pet is simply the right thing to do.
Equipment Checklist
You may find a few additional items helpful once your dog has settled into your home. For example, if you will be performing extensive grooming, you might choose to invest in a grooming table. This piece of equipment, which you can collapse when not in use, makes brushing and trimming a dog’s coat considerably easier on an owner’s back. Likewise, you may decide to use a nail-grinding tool for your dog’s pedicures instead of a set of manual clippers. When used properly, this item helps owners avoid injuring their pets’ nail beds. Exactly which items you purchase is strictly a matter of personal preference, but the following list of gear will start you off on the right paw.
✔ Crate
✔ Crate Pad/Liner
✔ Leash
✔ Collar or Harness
✔ Bowls
✔ Toothbrush and toothpaste
✔ Brush
✔ Flea Comb
✔ Clippers (for longhaired dogs)
✔ Nail Trimmers
✔ Toys
✔ Safety Gate(s)
Finding a Veterinarian
If you already have other pets, you also likely have a veterinarian to whom you take them for checkups and when problems arise. If you are new to dog ownership, though, finding a vet may be one of the tasks on your to-do list. Or, you may be looking for a new veterinary hospital even if you have dealt with other vets in the past. Finding the right match is important because this person, more than any other, is your best resource for your dog’s health. If you don’t feel 100-percent comfortable with a veterinarian, you should keep looking.
You can probably get the names of half a dozen veterinary hospitals in your general vicinity instantly simply by asking the digital assistant on your smartphone. What the automated voice can’t tell you, though, is which vets are the best. A better way to choose a vet is by asking for recommendations from your breeder, rescue group, or local humane society. You can also ask dog-owning friends or family members for their vets’ names.
Once you have narrowed down your search to one or two veterinarians, head to the Internet to research them further. Most veterinary hospitals today have websites or social media pages that offer basic information about the practices, including photos of the staff and facilities, hours of operations, the types of animals they treat, and maybe even brief bios of the doctors. You can also look for reviews posted by other pet owners. Read all of this information, and if everything looks good, plan to stop by for a visit.
Dropping by unannounced to make your first appointment may seem like a sneaky trick, but it gives you the opportunity to make sure that the hospital is indeed what it seems. I do recommend avoiding the busiest times of the day—typically first thing in the morning and just before closing time—out of consideration for the staff, however. If the waiting room is filled with patients when you arrive, simply let the person at the front desk know you would like to schedule a well visit for your dog and patiently wait until someone can speak with you.
Take a look at your surroundings. Is the facility clean and well organized? Is the staff friendly to both the pets and their owners? Do you feel welcome and at ease? The answers to all of these questions should be yes.
Preparing a Safe Place in the Home
Owners aren’t the only ones who can feel a bit overwhelmed by the new dog’s homecoming. As you worry about whether you might have overlooked an important step or item, your new dog may feel scared or stressed on his way to his new home. Bear in mind that he does not yet know where he is going or what he might encounter there. It is your job to help him feel as relaxed as possible.
One of the best ways you can accomplish this task is by limiting how much you expose him to right away. On his first day home, try to keep the hoopla to a minimum. As excited as you surely are, more commotion means more for your pet to process. Meeting his other household members is a must, but introducing them one at a time can make it easier for your dog to see that there is nothing to fear. If extended family, friends, or neighbors want to meet your new pet, hold off on those introductions until the next day, again introducing just one new person at a time.
Make all introductions low key, and supervise any children with your new puppy.
Giving your dog free run of your entire home right away may be too much too soon. For his first day home, it might be wiser to provide your pet with access to just one or two rooms. He will surely find plenty of new objects and scents to explore in this limited space as you keep an eye on him and how he is adjusting. Don’t be surprised if he sniffs around for a few minutes and then proceeds to take a nap. Puppies in particular wear out quickly, but even an older dog may need to recharge after a long car ride to this new environment.
What matters most is that you make sure that the room you choose for your pet’s homecoming is safe and comfortable for him. Tidy up before your dog’s arrival to make sure that personal belongings, such as shoes, children’s toys, and anything else you don’t want chewed, are put away. Any items small enough to fit in your pet’s mouth should likewise be removed from his space. Like human babies, puppies have no way of discerning safe objects from the ones that pose a choking hazard.
Many owners opt to keep their dogs in the kitchen for the first day or two to make it easier to clean up any housetraining mishaps as they begin the training process. If this is the case for you, either place your dog’s crate in the kitchen or offer your dog a pet bed or folded blanket for comfort. A few toys will also be soothing to your pet as he settles into his new home.
Your new dog will fit into the family in no time!
Puppy-Proofing
Before your dog can begin exploring the rest of his home, you should make sure that each new room he enters has been properly puppy-proofed. Do not assume just because your dog has been well behaved in the kitchen that he won’t get into trouble in your family room or bedrooms. Puppies have a knack for finding items that people didn’t even realize they left out, so, as mentioned, intentionally inspecting your living areas and removing potentially dangerous items is a necessity.
Begin puppy-proofing each room with a general cleanup. The saying “a place for everything and everything in its place” can be mighty useful for new dog owners. Similarly, you will find it easier to keep your rooms puppy-friendly by establishing basic house rules, such as:
• Coats and shoes get placed in closets as soon as they are removed.
• School and work supplies get placed on desks—never on the floor or in chairs where your dog can reach them.
• Leftover food gets covered and placed in cupboards or the refrigerator.
The exact rules you choose for your home depend on your individual circumstances, but a neat home is the safest place for your new dog. In order for the rules to work, all household members must respect the protocol. Among the most insidious threats to your pet’s safety are board games and other children’s toys. Small to medium pieces pose a choking hazard to dogs, and a swallowed object can cause a bowel obstruction—or worse. Magnets are of particular concern because their attraction to one another doesn’t stop after they enter an animal’s digestive system. Magnets have been known to rupture a dog’s stomach or intestines due to the objects’ strong magnetic force, putting the dog’s life in jeopardy.
Even after you have removed all of the obvious risks to your dog, you still have a few more steps in the puppy-proofing process. One of the best ways to identify the dangers that still lurk in a room is by getting down to your pet’s level, literally. Lower yourself down to your pet’s height and look around. Do you see any exposed nails or sharp edges on furniture? Is that your favorite pen under the sofa? Is there a web of tangled power cords behind your television or computer?
Most fixes are simple. A hammer can drive a nail back into the underside of a chair in just seconds. Childproofing kits made for human toddlers come with soft corner covers for furniture. You’ll find enclosures at your local office-supply store that keep electrical cords organized and out of the reach of teething pups. Whichever tools you use, taking proactive steps is vital for your pet’s safety.
As you get to know your new dog, you may discover additional puppy-proofing steps that are necessary for your individual pet. For instance, some dogs have an impressive talent for getting into cupboards or trash cans. Safety kits also contain childproof locks for securing cabinets and cupboards, which will keep your pup away from dangerous food items, toxic cleaning chemicals, and even medications.
Your dog may show no interest in your pantry or garbage, but he might enjoy drinking from the toilet. This behavior isn’t just unpleasant for owners, but it can also allow the dogs to ingest deadly cleaning chemicals. The solution here is as easy as making sure that everyone closes the lid before leaving the bathroom. Make this simple step a new house rule and post a note near your commode as a polite reminder for guests.
Expect a few accidents during housetraining and be prepared to clean up the mess.
Identification Options
As much as we all like to think it won’t happen to us, dogs slip out doors from time to time. If owners are lucky, it happens after they have had a chance to train their dog to come back to them when called. Many times, however, our excited canines run away before we can catch them. If you spend any time online, you have surely seen the numerous posts about lost animals. While social networking has given us a wonderful new way to spread the word, the sad fact is that many of these dogs never find their way back home.
The most effective way you can protect your dog from becoming one of those dogs is to keep a close eye on your pet whenever doors and windows are opened. The next is to start teaching him the Come command on the day you bring him home—and practicing it every day thereafter. Even the best plans, however, need a fail-safe. In the case of a lost pet, this important safeguard means providing your pet with identification.
Owners have several choices when it comes to ID. A traditional dog tag may seem obsolete to some people, but a tag is actually one of the smartest, easiest, and cheapest ways of identifying your dog. If your dog ever becomes lost, anyone who finds him will check his collar first to see if that tag is there.
Tags can be purchased at pet-supply stores or online. You can find them in every color of the rainbow, shaped like dog bones or fire hydrants (or other clever shapes), and ready to be inscribed with several lines of text. Your dog’s name is always a good start, but the most important information to include is your name, address, and phone number. Affix your dog’s tag right away—ideally, even before you leave the store. Your dog’s tag will lead others to you if he is wearing it when he gets lost, and history has taught us that we never know when this might happen.
A dog tag is a simple and effective means of identifying your dog.
Some companies make personalized collars with the dog’s name and his owner’s contact information printed right onto the collar. These are just as effective as tags. If you go this route, just be sure that the letters and numbers do not wear off or otherwise become illegible over time. A collar with the information embroidered onto it is ideal.
Another effective means of identifying a dog is microchipping. This method of inserting a small chip just under a dog’s skin has been around for years, and it has become extremely popular. The chip itself is about the size of a grain of rice, and the procedure to insert it just behind the dog’s shoulder blades is as quick and painless as a vaccination. The chip provides the dog’s and owner’s information when scanned; veterinarians, humane societies, and even local police departments have embraced microchips and likely have scanners with which to scan your dog.
If you choose to microchip your dog, be sure to register your chip with the provider and keep your contact information up to date. If you move or change your phone number without alerting the microchip company, the employees will have no way of getting in touch with you if your dog is ever found by a helpful stranger.
Unfortunately, not all strangers are indeed helpful. However, if your dog is ever stolen, a microchip can serve as a way to prove ownership of your pet. A thief may be able to remove a tag or collar from your dog, but a microchip is a different matter. While there is no guarantee that the person who finds your dog will have him checked for a chip, having one in place increases your pet’s chances of making it back to you.
Another form of technology that will help you locate your pet if he is ever lost is a GPS tracker. Like an ID tag, this device attaches to your pet’s collar. It then allows you to track your dog’s whereabouts using an app on your smartphone. Some brands even alert owners as soon as an escape happens.
Whichever form of identification or tracking device you choose for your pet, never rely on it to keep your pet safe. Lost dogs face many dangers outside the safety of their homes. Automobiles, wild animals, and harsh weather conditions are just a few of these threats. Nothing replaces your careful supervision.
A GPS tracker fits on the dog’s collar.
Pet Insurance
Somewhere between buying your dog’s crate and selecting a veterinarian for his first checkup, you may wonder whether you should purchase pet insurance. In addition to the cost of your dog’s yearly physical exams, he may need emergency care at some point during his lifetime. Even if you take the best possible care of your pet, he might also develop a chronic condition that requires either frequent trips to the vet or regular medication. In either case, having pet insurance could help. This doesn’t mean that it is definitely the right choice for you and your pet, though. Much depends on the unknown.
I had no way of knowing that I would experience both veterinary emergencies and chronic health issues with my own pets. My first Cocker Spaniel, Jonathan, slipped on the ice one winter, tearing his anterior cruciate ligament. Surgery to fix this relatively common injury is costly, and it comes with a lengthy recovery period. To avoid the long recovery, my vet treated my dog with acupuncture instead of surgery. This plan worked wonders for Johnny, who was running around again long before he would have been with the surgery, but I spent about the same amount of money on the weekly acupuncture treatments as I would have on the operation.
Another one of my Cockers, Molly, has idiopathic epilepsy. The word “idiopathic” means that the cause of her condition is unknown. Molly’s vet and I manage her seizures with anticonvulsant medication, which recently doubled in price at the pharmacy. Although Molly is on a very low dose, this medication can also damage her kidneys and liver over time. For this reason, her vet must run blood tests periodically to make sure that all her levels are where they should be.
I am happy to pay for whatever care my pets need, but not everyone is fortunate enough to have this choice. Still, pet insurance doesn’t necessarily make veterinary care more affordable for everyone. The cost of pet insurance can vary dramatically based on certain factors, including your dog’s age and even his size. Your plan may cost more or less depending on where you live, as well. The more a plan covers, the more you will pay for your premium. The least expensive plans cover emergency care only, while others will pay if your pet gets sick. Even plans that cover illnesses may not pay for treatments for hereditary or pre-existing conditions. The most thorough plans, however, even cover preventive care, such as vaccinations and flea control.
So, is pet insurance worth it? Like health insurance for humans, pet policies have deductibles and copays. You must consider the cost of your premiums, the amount you must pay out of pocket if your dog needs care, and the costs of your hospital’s services before deciding if pet insurance is right for you. If your dog is a puppy, his insurance will be relatively inexpensive, but many premiums increase as the pet get older—when they are more likely to have health issues.
Some owners prefer to use a savings account for their pet’s healthcare costs. If your dog doesn’t require any veterinary treatment other than preventive care for several years, this strategy could work well. If, on the other hand, he ends up needing emergency surgery before his first birthday, you could come up short. Conversely, you could pay hundreds or even thousands of dollars over the course of several years for insurance that your dog never needs. However, pet insurance can be helpful if you accumulate large veterinary bills for covered services.
