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Algonquin Provincial Park stretches across 7,725 square kilometres of wild and majestic lakes and forests, bogs and rivers, cliffs and beaches, making it the canoeists’ and campers’ paradise of Ontario. Algonquin is Ontario’s best-known recreation camping facility — but it has a history that’s sometimes less than pretty.

Small groups of Natives dotted this corner of the province where they fished, hunted, and savoured the berries that grew plentifully here. Algonquin was the generic name given to these Natives by the French. The name was once thought to have derived from Algomequin, meaning “those on the other side,” but a newer theory is that the word comes from the Micmac Algoomaking, meaning “at the place of spearing fish.”

It wasn’t long before the Natives had company. First it was the fur trappers, who discovered the area and moved in to take advantage of the abundant wildlife. Next, in the early 1800s, army surveyors arrived, among them Lieutenant Baddeley of the Royal Engineers. He was following orders to survey a route to link the “old colonies” in Upper Canada with the “western outposts” of the province, since most of the colonization roads ended there. At about the same time, two pioneer families, Dennison and Dufond, also settled in the district.

Industrious loggers pushed their way up from the Ottawa River in search of the great white pine trees, the primary wood in demand in Britain. Their need for wood could not be satisfied until the last pine was felled, and the loggers’ path was easily followed, as it was a trail of devastation. The lumber gangs lived in remote, primitive camps throughout the area and felled and squared the giant pine. When the spring came they drove them down swollen tributaries into the Ottawa River and on to the rest of the world.

Tom Thomson in Algonquin Park. Always a struggle to paint or fish! He was known to lose painting supplies when passion rocked his boat.

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The lumber companies were many in the 1850s — McLachin, J.D. Shier, J.R. Booth, Barnet and Gilmour, and many more. The government felt that once the timber had been cleared, the land would be suitable for homesteading. The settlers disagreed. They found the soil sandy and shallow and had to turn to trapping or working for the lumber companies in order to survive.

By the latter half of the 19th century, the Algonquin area was in a state of utter devastation. Lumbering had increased so rapidly and over such vast expanses that the people of Ontario were greatly concerned about the future of the forests, the water, and the wildlife. Concern was also voiced about the waterways, because the Algonquin region was the headwater for five major rivers: the Petawawa, Bonnechere, Madawaska, Oxtongue, and Amable.

It took vision and government support to resolve the situation. Alexander Kirkwood had the vision. Mr. Kirkwood was born in Belfast, Ireland, in 1822 and lived there until 1846. He left for America that year and farmed there until coming to Montreal in 1853, where he again he took up farming. While working with Robert Nugent Watts at Rivière St. Francis, he wrote an article for the Montreal Agriculturist entitled “Drilling of Wheat.” Malcolm Cameron, minister of the Department of Agriculture, read the article and sent for Mr. Kirkwood. In a matter of days, he was dispatched to Europe to report on “the growth and management of flax on the Continent of Europe.” Upon his return he was given an appointment in the Crown Lands Department and remained there until his retirement.

During those years he was a tireless worker. He wrote for many publications and became interested in Canadian fisheries. He and J.G. Murphy, of the Cree Grants and Sales Department, published a joint work on the “undeveloped lands of northern Ontario.” This work attracted interest and praise. Mr. Kirkwood ultimately introduced systematic forestry into Canada. It was through his foresight that the Algonquin Forest and Park was set aside for natural use and enjoyment. (Thank you, Alexander Kirkwood).

In 1885 he began to advocate controls on trapping and on the cutting of timber in the area. He wrote to the land commissioner of Ontario, the Honourable T.B. Pardee, to suggest that they create a park and name it Algonquin National Park, in honour of the Natives who once occupied the region. Nonetheless, it was not until 1892 that a Royal Commission was set up to study the feasibility of Kirkwood’s idea. Finally, in 1893, an act of Parliament was passed that designated the region a conservation area “for the use and enjoyment of the people.” In lieu of “national” they chose “provincial,” and Algonquin Provincial Park was born.

Did this mean that the lumbering operations were stopped forever? No! The act did not entirely stop logging operations in the park. Not long after the act was passed, construction began on the Ottawa, Arnprior and Parry Sound Railway, which was completed in 1897. Rail transportation was important to the logging industry, and logging companies now saw fit to strip portions of forest in the southwestern section of the park. These lumber companies even built spur lines that could be dismantled once the best trees were cut. It wasn’t until 1959, 65 years after the birth of the park, that rail service was discontinued.

The first white woman known to visit the Algonquin region was Susanna Moodie, a noted Canadian writer. She and her family took a canoe trip into the area in 1835. Other artists were also drawn to Algonquin and some never left. It was the rugged wilderness and incredible terrain that drew them. The first group, a small party of painters, arrived on Canoe Lake in 1902: W.W. Alexander, David Thomson, and Robert Holmes. They were eager to visit some of the remaining lumber camps and explored Opeongo, the largest lake in the park. They were followed by other artists such as J.W. Beatty, J.E.H. McDonald, Arthur Lismer, A.Y. Jackson, and a young man by the name of Tom Thomson.

Algonquin Park meant many things to this talented artist. Each summer Thomson explored the wilderness, and, inspired by what he saw, captured the essence of Canada in his celebrated paintings. In 1917, a tragedy took place: Tom Thomson died! Some say he drowned, accidentally, in Canoe Lake, while others whispered murder. Whatever happened, it remains both a mystery and a great loss of artistic talent.

Highway 60, running through the southwestern corner of the park, was completed in 1935, and from 1947 to 1948 it was paved. In 1972 more than 60,000 visitors camped in the park’s interior. Three years later 683,661 tourists enjoyed the park — 10 times as many!

To celebrate the 100th anniversary of Algonquin Park, a visitor centre was opened in 1993. The centre has world-class exhibits on the natural and human history of the park, a relaxing restaurant, an excellent bookstore, and “The Algonquin Room,” which holds exhibitions of Algonquin art, then and now. A theatre presentation sums up the park story, and a viewing deck puts in all in perspective.

Visitors interested in the logging history of the park can visit the Algonquin Logging Museum, located just inside the east gate. The museum brings the story of logging to life, from the early square timber days to the last of the great river drives.

Algonquin Park also offers the canoeist 1,500 kilometres (about 930 miles) of canoe routes throughout the district. The backpacker has a choice of three trails to hike: the Highland, Western Uplands, or Eastern Pines. These trails have loops ranging from 6 to 88 kilometres (4 to 55 miles) in length.

Although the Park is, to some, overburdened with campers, the wilderness camper still has a few choices, but they have to work harder, go farther, and settle for more company along the way. It is an excellent place to holiday, a great learning experience for children, and it remains an inspirational landscape for painters and photographers alike. Let us give a salute to the foresight of Alexander Kirkwood, and others who followed, for correcting the path of less-than-pretty history!