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INTRODUCTION

With your pack on your back you have rounded the last bend of the Tiber River. You have walked past the looming brown hulk of Castel Sant’Angelo, past some offices and stores and, with 140 stern, saintly and stony witnesses watching from the colonnade above, you have stepped out of Italy and into bustling Saint Peter’s Square. This is holy ground, the Vatican City – for millions the center of the world. After many days of walking you should be exhausted, but instead you’re exhilarated.

Vittorio Emanuel II Monument in Rome (Pilgrim Churches Tour)

Before you is Michelangelo’s spectacular dome, soaring over the tomb of St Peter. To your upper right is the Pope’s balcony where he speaks to tens of thousands of the assembled faithful. Beyond is the treasure-filled Vatican Museum. Behind you are relics of Ancient Rome, its temples and palaces sprinkled within one of the world’s most beloved and beautiful modern cities.

Around you are pilgrims from all over the world, here like you to experience the drama and grandeur of this place. They came in a bus or train or car; but like millions of pilgrims from centuries past who spent weeks or months getting to this very place, you walked. You feel your arrival in a joyful heart, but also you feel it in your bones and muscles and on the soles of your weary feet. You take off your pack to rest your back after a journey of many kilometers, and with a mixture of relief and joy you think back over your amazing pilgrimage – the Way of St Francis.

Interior of St Peter’s Basilica, Rome (Stage 28)

Stretching out over 28 days and 550 kilometers, the Via di Francesco unveils countless unforgettable wonders. In Florence are the smooth, muscular lines of Michelangelo’s David, the amazing heights of Brunelleschi’s dome, the heavy bells of Giotto’s tower and intricate details of Ghiberti’s bronze doors. After Florence are countless medieval and Renaissance churches and monuments that stand in timeless testimony to a people’s enduring faith over many centuries. In Assisi are delicate frescoes by Cimabue and Giotto. Roman amphitheaters, Etruscan arches and relics of saints dot the path that traces a pilgrim walk through cities and villages but also under the shade of mighty forests and ancient olive groves.

Many have walked to Rome − heroes and conquerors, saints and reformers − but none loved this land more than St Francis of Assisi, a simple man of Umbria who became patron saint of Italy. In his Canticle of Brother Sun and Sister Moon he offered a poetic vision for a life that calls people to befriend the earth and all God’s creatures. That song and his life sprang under the this sun shining over these fields, these forests, these stones.

The modern Way of St Francis connects places and paths important in the life of this beloved saint and makes them available to pilgrim walkers who seek to retrace his steps and capture his love of this land. Indeed, the ministry of Francis of Assisi began with a walk – in 1209 when he and his friends walked from Assisi to Rome to meet Pope Innocent III. His travels north of Assisi and in Tuscany inspire stories told to this day. He loved to visit in the Holy Valley of Rieti for rest and prayer. The Way of St Francis links these travels and destinations into a month-long walk that even after many centuries echoes with his presence.

View of the Basilica of St Francis from Porta San Giacomo (Stage 15)

Today, as you walk from Florence to Rome via Assisi it is easy to imagine the Italy of Francis’ time. Still present are the thick, grey-brown walls of medieval hill towns, the quiet mountain pathways, the sweeping vistas of fertile farmland where wheat and herb are grown, and the ancient olive groves where locals know to find the tender stalks of the wild asparagus they gather by hand and toss with the pasta of their evening meal. These Central Apennines contain some of Italy’s most beautiful mountains and valleys, what Italians call il cuor verde d’Italia − the green heart of Italy.

If the mountains of Umbria, Tuscany and Lazio could speak of all that has happened in their shadow, they would tell a rich and colorful story of armies and conquerors, of mysterious Etruscans and crafty Romans, of Christian princes and worldly bishops, of invading hordes and bumbling dictators – all who made marks on the land that today are still visible to the observant pilgrim walker. Every day of this walk brings evidence of another historic episode to see and touch: an Umbrian archway, a Roman road, a papal castle, a monument to soldiers lost in a war, a gleaming new European Union highway.

The Way of St Francis lays Central Italy at your feet and dares you not to love it. When you finally arrive in Rome and are given your completion certificate − your testimonium − your sense of accomplishment will be well-earned, having just completed one of the world’s greatest pilgrimages.

But much more than that, you will have joined the countless pilgrims to Rome from over the centuries who’ve made a special place in their heart for this beautiful land, its deep and rich history, its food and people, and its humble patron saint who walked with you along the way.

Street scene near the train station in Florence

St Francis and the Way of St Francis

The life of St Francis of Assisi

When Pietro and his French wife, Pica, celebrated the birth of their son Francis, in about 1181, they undoubtedly expected him to take up the family’s prosperous cloth business in Assisi. As an adolescent, when Francis was not helping his father he was perfecting his skills as a horseman, archer and warrior – aristocratic proficiencies befitting the upper classes to which his family aspired.

In 1202 war broke out between Assisi and neighboring Perugia. Dressed in fine battle gear, Francis boldly joined his countrymen to fight the Perugians, but the tragic result was a heavy loss of life and many casualties in the brief but bloody conflict. The Perugian victors sorted the conquered soldiers between peasants, who were killed, and aristocrats, who were imprisoned for ransom. As a result, Francis spent nearly a year in the dungeons of Perugia while his ransom was arranged. He came back to Assisi in 1203 a very different man.

Yes, the cold and damp dungeon had taken a toll on his health, but it was more likely the traumatic experience of human cruelty that changed his outlook. One day after his release from prison he was riding toward Assisi and came across a leper. The old Francis would have been horrified at such a sight and would have kept his distance, but this time he subdued his revulsion and, out of a newfound compassion, gently kissed the man. Francis was living into a new worldview.

He began to spend more time alone in study, deep contemplation and prayer and encouraged his friends to do the same. One day in 1206, from the crucifix of the ruined church of San Damiano just outside Assisi’s walls, he heard these words: ‘Francis, rebuild my church.’

One scene of the life of St Francis in graffiti style on a concrete wall leaving Valfabbrica (Stage 15)

Along with a dozen of his friends he began to do just that. To fund his work Francis chose to tap a familiar source – his family. Without asking permission, Francis availed himself of expensive bolts of cloth from Pietro’s stock; he sold them in the market at Foligno and used the proceeds to help pay for the reclamation project. Needless to say, Pietro was incensed and he imprisoned Francis in a basement room of his home. Appealing to Bishop Guido of Assisi against his son, Pietro had Francis put on trial at the town’s Santa Maria Maggiore church, and there the bishop ordered Francis to repay his father the cost of the cloth. In a symbolic act of separation, Francis removed his clothes and handed them to his father, renouncing him, his family, their possessions, and their way of life.

In a rough tunic, given him out of pity by the bishop of Assisi, Francis set out for the house of a friend in Gubbio. Over the next two years the small band of friends he had gathered would travel together like roving troubadours – a band of ‘brothers’ on a quest of prayer, poverty and preaching. They investigated the scriptures at Santa Maria Minerva church in Assisi and there discovered Jesus’ call to poverty and simplicity.

With his brothers Francis traveled to Poggio Bustone, where he had a spiritual experience of transformation, and to nearby Lake Piediluco as the band continued to gain attention. The religious authorities in Rome took notice of the growing movement, and in its biggest test, Francis was summoned in 1210 to St John Lateran by Pope Innocent III to explain his unauthorized gospel ministry.

Francis Memorial at St John Lateran Cathedral in Rome (photo by Jacqueline Zeindlinger)

Aptly remembered as one of the wisest of all popes, Innocent carefully pondered the ragged man in the tattered brown robe before him. Afterwards, in a dream, the pope saw Francis holding up the pillars of his church, which was tottering in an earthquake; shortly after that he gave his blessing and Francis began a preaching mission that would send him across the Western world.

Over the next years literally thousands of men would join his Franciscan order. Soon, women would unite with a second order set up by his friend and confidante, Clare of Assisi. A third order of laypeople would also be formed – propelled by the sincerity, humility and the gentle spirituality of the humble man of Assisi.

Operating from his base at the tiny Porziuncola chapel at Santa Maria degli Angeli below Assisi, his travels would take him to Spain, France, throughout Italy and to the Middle East as a peace-loving adjunct to the Fifth Crusade.

Back in Italy, Francis sought quiet, remote settings for prayer and contemplation – Monteluco, La Verna, Montecasale, Fontecolombo, and many more – all the while gaining fame as stories of miracles surrounded his mission.

Unknown even to his closest friends, at La Verna in 1224 he received ‘stigmata’ – marks on his hands, feet and sides resembling Jesus’ wounds on the cross. He kept these hidden from others so as not to appear proud.

Because of an ailment to his eyes, in 1225 the Bishop of Rieti begged Francis to come to his town and receive treatment, but the pressing of the crowds forced him to remain outside of town for several weeks at a quiet church of La Foresta. Then, in nearby Greccio, Francis’ temples were cauterized from his ears to his eyelids, although Francis insisted he felt no pain.

With his health in continued decline, Francis returned to La Verna, then Montecasale, and finally to Assisi. He visited with his colleague, Clare, and in a hut outside San Damiano he finalized the rule of his order and finished his immortal song, the Canticle of Brother Sun.

On 3 October 1226, at the Porziuncola, Francis died, surrounded by weeping followers and thousands of devotees. On his body were discovered the stigmata, which startled his followers and lent added wonder to the multiplying stories and legends of his life. In less than two years he was declared a saint and construction began on a church at Assisi in his honor. At the completion of its lower level, the body of Francis was interred at the new Basilica of San Francesco.

Some have called Francis of Assisi the most successful follower of Jesus Christ, fulfilling in the most meticulous way Jesus’ call to simplicity, poverty and prayer. In practical terms his life, ministry and legacy steered the church back toward care of the poor and needy.

In the 20th century Francis’ love of nature led him to be called ‘the first environmentalist,’ and his interest in the poor has made him informal patron saint of economic justice. Then in 2013 the newly elected Cardinal Jorge Bergoglio of Buenos Aires took the name, Pope Francis. The message was not lost – Bergoglio was saying to people of the 21st century that they should take a fresh look at the life and message of the humble man of Assisi.

(There are many resources for those who would like to learn more about Francis’ life and legacy; see Appendix D for further reading suggestions.)

The modern Way of St Francis

After the death of Francis his hometown of Assisi became an important pilgrimage site. Since the 13th century pilgrims from all over Italy and Europe have traveled to Umbria to venerate Francis and his friend and collaborator, St Clare. Today, the Municipality of Assisi annually hosts over 4 million pilgrims and tourists.

A small shrine honoring pilgrims outside Foligno (Stage 17)

Since there is no historic text that proposes a specific itinerary, as with other pilgrimages such as the Camino de Santiago and Via Francigena, there are now several itineraries that link together beloved St Francis sites. Among the main routes are:

 Via Francigena di San Francesco (Via di Francesco) – a joint project of the Region of Umbria, Franciscan family of orders in Assisi and the Umbrian Conference of Catholic Bishops. The routes converge on Assisi, beginning either at Santuario della Verna from the north or Rieti from the south. Large blue-and-yellow metal signs and blue-and-yellow painted stripes mark the way.

 Cammino di Assisi begins at the tiny town of Dovadola in Emilia-Romagna and visits sites of St Anthony before connecting at Santuario della Verna for a Franciscan itinerary that ends in Assisi. Green arrows and a dancing ‘Tau’ figure mark the route.

 Di qui Passò San Francesco is the brainchild of pilgrim pioneer Angela Serracchioli and leads from Santuario della Verna through Greccio to Poggio Bustone. Look for yellow ‘Tau’ markers and yellow arrows that mark this route.

 Cammino di Francesco is a project of the Rieti tourism office, which maintains a ring of trails among the holy sites of the Sacred Valley of Rieti in a circular route between Poggio Bustone, Greccio, La Foresta and other Franciscan sanctuaries. Carved wooden signs and X-framed fences mark the route.

 Via di Roma is overseen by the Region of Lazio and leads from Rieti to Rome. Its blue-and-yellow signs are almost identical to those of the Via di Francesco. In Rome the route is also marked with images of St Francis and the two keys of St Peter stenciled in yellow paint on sidewalks.

 Sentiero Francescano della Pace recounts the route walked by Francis from Assisi to Gubbio after his parents disowned him. Large kiosks mark the route.

 Der Franziskusweg – in their guidebooks, authors Kees Roodenburg of Holland and Simone Ochsenkühn of Germany describe a route beginning near Florence and ending just before Rome. An Austrian guidebook also describes a Franziskusweg route from Frankfurt to Rome via La Verna. Before La Verna the route follows pre-existing Club Alpino Italia (CAI) trails, which are marked in painted red-and-white stripes, and then selects from among the Franciscan options to find the most favorable itineraries.

In addition, the Region of Tuscany is in the process of creating new Franciscan itineraries leading to La Verna from Florence, Arezzo, Cortona and Emiglia-Romangna.

Waymarks along the way, including CAI, Qui Passo, Via Francesco and Cammino di Assisi

Why this itinerary?

While the different routes offer their own virtues and give pilgrims choices about what sites to visit and how best to enjoy the area, the lack of agreement on a single itinerary does challenge pilgrims who want to find the best choice for their specific pilgrimage.

The itinerary included in this book comes after weighing the pros and cons of each existing route. The goals of this book’s itinerary are to provide the strongest possible links to sites identified with the life of St Francis, as well as providing an enjoyable and scenic daily experience. It also seeks to include daily routes that provide access to services and economical overnight lodging. Since travel connections are important, it includes stages that begin and end in locations with air, train and/or bus transportation.

Pilgrims have physical limits, so another goal was to avoid unnecessarily long, difficult or poorly marked routes. This route honors safety rules and minimizes time on busy auto roads that provide little or no room for pedestrians. It was also important to allow for a one-month timeframe as a natural follow-up to a pilgrim who has finished the Camino Francés and is looking for another memorable pilgrimage experience.

After weighing the options, this route follows most closely the Via di Francesco and Via di Roma itineraries from Santuario della Verna to Rome, occasionally opting for the other routes when they offer a better option. The primary addition is a walking itinerary from Florence to hard-to-reach Santuario della Verna, which mostly follows the German guidebooks, leading pilgrims through the lovely Casentino Park.

A group of pilgrims walking to Assisi from Spello (Stage 16)

Geography and climate

The Apennine range is the thick spine of the Italian peninsula, and the forested Central Apennines form the north and east borders of the route of the Way of St Francis. On the Western slopes of the Central Apennines the primary rivers are tributaries of the Arno and Tiber (Tevere), which catch rainfall from western Tuscany, Umbria and Lazio before flowing into the Tyrrhenian and Ligurian Seas.

Because of this rugged topography, the Way of St Francis is often a challenging walk. Veteran Camino de Santiago pilgrims may compare several of the days to a walk over the Route Napoleon that crosses the Pyrenees. A daily climb and descent of 500 to 1000 meters is not unusual.

Mount Terminillo and other snowy peaks in the Central Apennines create weather patterns that ensure regular rainfall, and the mountain streams and aquifers supply pure water that is bottled and shipped all over Italy at water plants like Cottorella near Rieti. For pilgrims, this environment means that sporadic rain is assured in any season of the year.

Some who haven’t visited Central Italy are surprised to discover this lovely region has four distinct seasons, with frequent freezing temperatures in the winter as well as very hot temperatures in the summer. Snow is common at the higher elevations included on this itinerary, with chilly temperatures and more rain in the lowlands. Summers bring the high temperatures expected of Italy, but rainfall averages year round show why the region remains green.

For pilgrims, the geography and climate offer rewards – breathtaking views from lofty mountain ridges and long walks in ancient forests or among green fields in quiet valleys. But it is also important for pilgrims to plan and prepare well for the challenges ahead.

Looking back toward Cantalice (Stage 23)

Getting there

Florence

Florence has a mid-sized international airport that can be reached from major airline hubs in Europe. Upon arrival, pilgrims can share a €25 taxi for the 30-minute ride to the center city or can wait for the VolaInBus – a shuttle to the Santa Maria Novella train station that leaves every 30 minutes (from 5.30am to 1.00am, €6, cash only, exact change preferred). Santa Maria Novella is the central train station in Florence and is served by trains from all over Europe. Florence’s main attractions are all a quick walk from here, as is the Basilica of Santa Croce, start of the pilgrimage.

You can also get to Florence from Rome, whose Fiumicino Airport has excellent connections to cities around the world. The 30-min express train from the airport to Rome’s Termini Station costs €14 and from there the 1hr 30min ride to Florence costs about €38.

Santuario della Verna

Without a car, a trip to La Verna requires a train and/or bus, most often through Bibbiena.

From Florence

By bus, take the Etruria Mobilitá (www.etruriamobilita.it) to Bibbiena, and then transfer to the Pieve Santo Stefano bus to go to Santuario Della Verna. You can also take the train (www.trenitalia.com) from Florence to Arezzo, then transfer to a local TFT train (www.trasportoferroviariotoscano.it) to Bibbiena and take the Etruria Mobilitá bus from there.

From Rome

Take the train to Arezzo, transfer to the TFT train from Arezzo to Bibbiena, and then transfer to the Etruria Mobilitá bus to Santuario della Verna as above.

Assisi

Most travelers to Assisi choose to fly to Florence or Rome and then take the train to Assisi’s nearest station, Santa Maria Degli Angeli. From the station there is a €1.50 each 30min for the last 2.5km uphill to Assisi. Otherwise it’s a 45-minute walk uphill on the ‘Pax et Bonum’ pedestrian walkway from the train station to Assisi.

Assisi also shares the Aeroporto San Francesco d’Assisi (PEG) with Perugia at Sant’Egidio, about 10km out of town (www.airport.umbria.it), with direct links to several European cities including London (Stansted), Catania, Tirana, Brussels (Charleroi) and Molta. Information on the infrequent local bus (number E007) can be found at www.umbriamobilita.it under ‘S Egidio Aeroporto’, but lack of frequent runs makes it most convenient to pay the approximately €25 cab fare for the 15-minute trip to Assisi.

See Appendix B for a directory of contact details including those of local and national transport providers.

Rocca Maggiore Castle of upper Assisi (Stage 16A)

Getting around

Once in Italy there are relatively economical and simple options for getting around the country.

By train

As with most of Europe, Italy has a good train infrastructure. The TrenItalia system (www.trenitalia.com) serves several stops on the itinerary for this walk, including Florence (Stage 1), Pontassieve (Stage 2), Assisi (Stage 16), Spello (Stage 17), Foligno and Trevi (Stage 18), Spoleto (Stage 19), Marmore (Stage 21), Rieti (Stage 24) and Monterotondo (Stage 27). TrenItalia tickets are purchased at automated kiosks in train stations which take cash, credit or debit cards (PIN required). They can also be purchased online, although the system requires a membership and identification.

As mentioned above, Tuscany has the small TFT train system (www.trasportoferroviariotoscano.it) that connects Stia (Stage 4) to Bibbiena with its bus connections to Camaldoli and La Verna, plus Arezzo with its TrenItalia station connecting TFT to the main rail network. Tickets are purchased at the station or at nearby tobacco stores or cafés.

Umbria has its FCO system, now run by Umbria Mobilitá (www.umbriamobilita.it) that to and Città di Castello (Stage 11) through Perugia (and in the near future to Terni). Perugia and Terni both offer TrenItalia connections. Tickets are purchased at the station.

In Italy, always make certain to validate your ticket by stamping it in the station’s validation machine after your purchase or be ready to pay a €40 fine.

By bus

Italy’s buses are organized by region, so in Tuscany between Florence (Stage 1) and Sansepolcro (Stage 9) the Etruria Mobilitá system (www.etruriamobilita.it) serves each stop on the itinerary. Umbria Mobilitá (www.umbriamobilita.it) serves the Umbrian portion between Sansepolcro and Piediluco (Stage 22), while Cotral (www.cotralspa.it) serves the Lazio portion from Poggio Bustone (Stage 23) to Rome (Stage 28). Bus schedules are usually posted at each bus stop, and tickets can be purchased at tobacco shops or from the driver. Always remember to stamp your ticket in the validation machine behind the driver’s seat.

Appendix B includes contact details for each region’s public transport providers.

The Piazza and tower in Valfabbrica (Stage 14)

When to go

April to June and mid-August through October are the best times to walk the Way of St Francis. During these months the temperatures range from mild to hot and the rainfall is at its lowest. The weeks between 1 July and 15 August are historically the hottest of the year and are best avoided unless you’re ready for very warm temperatures.

The month of August – particularly its last weeks – is when Italians take their own holidays. For the last 2000 years Italians have celebrated Ferragosto – a two-week holiday at the end of August when Italians close their shops and retreat to the mountains and beaches. It is not unusual for small businesses and restaurants to be closed the entire month, but shops dependent on tourism (or pilgrimage) business will most always remain open.

Due to the winter climate of the highlands and the likelihood of heavy rain and snow, a pilgrimage between November and March on certain portions of the Way of St Francis is unwise. The possibility of trail washouts, overflowing streams and signage lost due to snow – not to mention the danger of hypothermia and getting lost – outweigh any advantages of walking in these months. Likewise, walking in the shoulder months of November and April can mean that some accommodation is not yet open for the season and that tiny creeks mentioned here may be swollen with the rains and snowmelt.

Pilgrims may want to coordinate their journey around special holidays in the Italian communities on the pilgrimage. Gubbio’s Corsa dei Ceri is held on 15 May each year, and Spello’s Infiorata lands on the ninth Sunday after Easter. Near Assisi are Perugia’s Umbria Jazz in July and EuroChocolate in October, and Spoleto’s Due Mondi in June/July attracts classical artists from around the world. Although the festivals are a real treat, pilgrims should be aware that accommodation might be scarce without adequate advance reservations.

Accommodation

Stages have been arranged to coincide with available lodging. Where possible, at least three accommodation options are listed per daily stage. The daily listings include low-cost hotels, agriturismi, and foresterie (guest houses), and at least one hostel, if available. Where possible the address, phone number (exclusive of the +039 prefix for Italy), email address and price for a single and double room are included.

Wherever you stay, it is important to plan ahead and make a reservation, whether you use hotels, agriturismi or hostels. Make your reservations at least 2–3 days in advance so you know you’ll have a suitable place to stay. Hostels often do not use email and phone is sometimes the only option. Try not to make reservations more than 4–5 days ahead so you maintain some flexibility in your plans.

See Appendix B (Useful contacts) for a stage-by-stage list of tourist information offices; if you find yourself struggling to make a booking they may be able to help.

Hostels

A growing number of local parishes and monasteries have opened small hostels for use by pilgrims. In smaller towns along the route, many parishes or convents open up spare rooms for use by pilgrims. A sleeping bag is not required since virtually every hostel makes pillows and blankets available for free or for a small cost (except as noted). Do plan on bringing a sleeping bag liner, though, since sheets are seldom included.

Rifugios

These are mountain huts found in national parks (such as the Casentino) and they are maintained by the local chapters of the Club Alpino Italia (CAI). Extremely basic, there may simply be a bare cot, table and fireplace and no restaurant nearby. With only one rifugio along the way – just after Camaldoli – it’s likely not worth it to plan to stay there since an overnight would require a sleeping bag, food, cooking utensils and a gas stove.

Agriturismi

An agriturismo is a rural guesthouse, with eating accommodations that range from small dining rooms with prepared meals to apartments with kitchens. An overnight at an agriturismo with breakfast and dinner can be in the €70–90 range, and if it is remotely located there may be no other dining options. It’s always best to check in advance about the eating options so you can make the meal choice that best meets your budget. In a few cases this means opting out of the agriturismo dinner in favor of a walk or hitched ride to a nearby restaurant.

Hotels

Hotels in Italy almost always include a continental-style breakfast. Those featured in this guide usually range from €30–50 per person per night. Reduce the cost by sharing a double room with a companion. Expect to be asked for your passport when you check in, but not to pay until you check out; if you plan to leave early in the morning, ask to pay the night before. And don’t forget to pick up your passport before you leave.

Foresterie

A foresteria is a hotel run by a convent or monastery (such as Camaldoli and La Verna) that offers hotel-like rooms with breakfast and a one-menu dinner included in the price.

Camping

While it is possible to camp, you would need a tent or other gear for outdoor sleeping which would mean unnecessary extra weight. In Italy, camping is legal only in designated campgrounds.

Eating in Italy

An espresso with perhaps a croissant (cornetto in Italian) is an Italian breakfast. Lunch is served in early afternoon and is followed by the riposo (see ‘Business hours and the riposo’, below). Early evening is time for a snack – a glass of beer or wine with tiny bites of food. Although restaurants generally open around 7.30pm, Italians usually enjoy dinner from around 8.00pm until 10.30pm. Restaurants often are open until midnight, although the kitchen may close sooner. Efficiency-loving Northern Europeans and Americans may need to learn the ‘slow food’ pattern of Italian restaurant meals, where the kitchen expects you to take your time enjoying food, wine and conversation.

Pizza and pasta are, of course, omnipresent in Italy. However, almost every town has its special take on pasta, and you will endear yourself to your server by ordering the local specialty. In Tuscany and Umbria, beef and pork are highly prized and the many varieties of cured meats are famous the world over.

Even in a plain-looking restaurant a full Italian meal can be expensive, so if you’re on a budget (or simply can’t eat that much food) feel free to pick and choose from any of the courses. If you do, the server will want to know in what order you’d like your food.

Budgeting and cash

If you’re on a tight budget, plan ahead to take advantage of private and parochial hostels. If you prefer to stay in hotels you can save a lot of money by having a companion or two to share the cost. You can cut down on food expense by shopping for your lunch at a grocery store the night before. Only occasionally will you find a room or hostel with a kitchen, so you’ll want to learn to study restaurant menus carefully for the most economical choices.

A moderate daily budget per person in double hotel rooms will look something like this:

 Breakfast (incl. with room)

 Lunch €6.00

 Dinner €15.00

 Overnight €30.00

 Incidentals €5.00

 Total €56.00

When it comes to cash, rather than bringing a large stash of Euros it’s easiest to have an ATM card with you to get cash from your bank account as needed. Check with your bank to see what the fees are, whether there’s a maximum daily withdrawal, and to make sure you’re getting a favorable exchange rate. It’s also a good idea to bring a second ATM card so you have a backup. A credit card is usually best for hotel reservations.

Post, phones and internet

Italy’s state-owned, public postal service, Poste Italiane, has offices in towns and cities throughout the country, usually with an ATM outside.

To make accommodation reservations in real time it’s very handy to have a telephone – and even more handy to have a smart phone with internet capability for email. If you have a smart phone, contact your carrier prior to departure to ask for an international voice and data plan. If this is too expensive – and if your smart phone is unlocked from your local carrier – you can purchase a pre-paid Italian SIM card on arrival in Italy at the office of one of the major carriers (TIM, Vodaphone, WIND, for example). The clerk will install a new card for you and offer you voice and data plans. Make certain to retain your old SIM card so you can use it back home when you return. For international calling remember Italy’s country code is +39.

If you do have a smart phone, you can save on the cost of cell-based data by using the wi-fi capability of your phone when wi-fi is available, as it frequently is in public establishments in cities and towns throughout Italy. Your smart phone can also allow you easily to use the GPS tracks available for this walk (see Maps, GPS and Way Marking below).

As with most of the world, Italian electricity operates at 220v. With the dawn of international electronic appliances, most phones, cameras and computers have a 110/220v transformer built into the ‘power brick’. This means that only a plug adapter is necessary for those coming to Italy from places that use 110v or non-Euro plugs.

Business hours and the riposo

Northern Europeans and Americans are often surprised to find Italian stores and businesses closed midday. This is the riposo, the mid-afternoon rest observed in much of Italy. If you live in Italy during the summer you’ll see the purpose of this custom – the Italian sun can be excruciatingly hot in the mid-afternoon. Businesses typically close around 1.30pm and reopen around 4.30–5.30pm, once the day has cooled off.

There is a sort of weekly riposo, too: stores often close on Saturday at noon and then won’t reopen until Monday afternoon or even Tuesday morning. In small towns and villages this can make it a challenge to find groceries on Sunday mornings, so be certain to plan ahead.

Laundry

In large cities there are almost always coin-operated laundromats. Ask the hotel or hostel clerk for the nearest location. Laundry is most reliably washed in the sink, so plan to have soap, clothespins and a clothesline with you.

Water fountains

Only occasionally are there water fountains in the middle of a stage and when there are, they are seldom marked for drinkability. Our maps show locations of water fountains that are confirmed as potable, but carrying a 2-liter water supply in fall and spring and a 3-liter supply in the summer is recommended.

Planning and training

Choosing a schedule

While the complete walk of 28 stages with the extra walking tour of Rome could be accomplished in 29 walking days, that’s not nearly enough time to enjoy and appreciate this important pilgrimage and its many wonders. Unless you have already toured Rome and Florence you would want to spend at least one or two extra days in each. You can’t enjoy Assisi in what’s left of the day it took to walk there, so add another day for St Francis’ home town. It’s good to allow for a day of rest every week anyway, so that means a realistic, complete itinerary would be in the realm of 35 days, not including travel to and from Italy.

If a journey of 35 days is unmanageable, the journey could be broken into several parts to be completed as time permits:

 Florence to Assisi – 15 or more days

 La Verna to Assisi – 9 or more days

 Assisi to Rieti – 8 or more days

 Assisi to Rome – 14 or more days

Training

It’s helpful to train in advance of the walk, and this should be part of your careful preparation. The often steep hills will challenge anyone who hasn’t trained adequately in advance, although almost anyone will find themselves stronger and fitter after walking for several days.

People who are significantly overweight and have a hard time climbing a stairway or hill will have a difficult time. Likewise, because of the frequent and sometimes steep hills, people with knee or hip problems will find this a difficult walk.

Most important in the training regime is having certainty that your feet and boots get along well with each other. You should plan to test your boot/sock combination with a few long walks before you leave, preferably in varied terrain, so blisters along the way won’t sideline you. Too many pilgrims try to push ahead with untested boots and socks and then develop agonizing blisters that can be serious enough to end their trip. Resolve boot and sock issues before you leave home.

Pilgrim credenziale and testimonium

As well as booking your travel arrangement to Italy it is important to secure your credential (or credenziale – a pilgrim ‘identity card’) within two months of your departure. (This is also a good time to reserve your overnight accommodation for the first couple of stages.)

Pilgrims need a credential to certify their status and to receive a testimonium completion certificate at the end of the walk. This guide recommends the credential of the Via di Francesco because of its many institutional sponsors. The credential is free, but a donation is requested to cover the cost of postage. Go to the website www.piccolaccoglienzagubbio.it/credenziale and fill out the form online.

This wonderful service is run by volunteers in Gubbio, Italy, and in the US through American Pilgrims to Italy, who send credentials out each week. Make sure to show your address exactly as it should appear to be correctly mailed by your national postal service. Allow 6-8 weeks for delivery.

It is also possible to secure a credential in person at the Pilgrim Office adjacent to the Lower Basilica di San Francesco in Assisi. Credentials are available in Florence at St James Episcopal Church (Via Rucellai 9, 055 294417).

Once you have your credential, keep it safe and dry while you are walking and have it stamped each day at the front desk where you spend the night or at a local church by the priest or staff member. Plan ahead carefully so there are adequate blank spots on the credential to last your entire walk.

A completion certificate (testimonium in Latin) is offered at the Basilica di San Francesco for those who walk at least 100km to Assisi, and a separate one is offered at the Vatican for those who walk at least 100km to Rome. To receive your testimonium in Assisi, go to the car gate just to the left of the lower entrance of the Basilica, present your credential and ask to be directed to ‘Statio Peregrinorum’ (the pilgrim office) for your testimonium. To receive a testimonium in Rome, follow the steps listed at the end of Stage 28 in this guidebook.

Pilgrim cross at the top of the ridge, just before the first view of the Basilica of St Francis on Stage 15

What to take

The first rule of packing for a long hike is to have exactly the right amount of gear – and no more. A light pack is a gift that keeps on giving. The second rule is never bring anything made of cotton – it’s cold when wet and takes too long to dry. Keeping those rules in mind, here is a recommended gear list that works for summer. Heavier clothes are required, of course, in spring and fall.

 Backpack – 35-liter size is fine for the average build

 Backpack rain cover

 Emergency foil blanket – basic survival gear and a must for all outdoor hikes in case of an injury or unintended overnight

 Hiking shorts – 1 or 2 pairs

 Long pants – lightweight and quick-drying for rain and suitable for churches and restaurants – 1 pair

 Technical t-shirts – 2 short sleeve, 1 long sleeve (jogging shirts work nicely)

 Shirt or blouse (with collar for men) – 1 for dinner and/or church

 Underwear – shorts/panties and bras (stretch poly material for quick dry) – 2 or 3 pairs

 Socks – wool trekking socks, light for summer, heavier for cool weather – 3 pairs

 Sock liners – 3 pairs for blister prevention

 Hiking boots – mid-height boots with the thickest possible soles are best in the sometimes mountainous terrain

 ‘Second shoe’ – comfortable enough for evenings and walking on asphalt. Trainers or hiking sandals work fine.

 Rain jacket – of breathable material such as Gore-Tex®

 Warm layer fleece or light down jacket

 Sun/rain hat – wide brim to protect face, ears and back of the neck from sun exposure

 Toiletries and toiletry bag – toothbrush, etc

 Multi-purpose soap – one small bar of soap works in the shower and also for hand-washing laundry

 Camera, camera pouch and charger – if you take special care with your photos, and/or:

 Phone (with camera) and charger

 CamelBak® or similar water bladder or other water storage – 2L (spring/fall) or 3L (summer). Lack of fountains along the way means it’s important to bring an adequate water container.

 Clothespins and clothesline

 Passport, airline ticket, waterproof bag for documents

 Sunblock lotion

 Pen and paper and/or journal

 Blister kit – blisters need prompt attention. Plan to bring the ingredients necessary to treat your blisters before they damage your pilgrimage.

 Toilet paper roll in a plastic bag

 Debit/credit card(s)

 Copies of important documents – scans or hard copies of your passport, travel arrangements and credit/debit cards are priceless in case of theft or loss of the originals.

 Walking poles – many pilgrims swear by these to help with balance and to take weight off the knees and hips

 Swimsuit – it’s lightweight, and you’ll miss it if your lodging includes a pool.

 Mosquito repellant – very helpful in a few swampy areas.

Layers are the key to staying warm on cold days. With this list, here is your cold weather set-up: 1) technical long sleeve t-shirt closest to the body; 2) fleece or down jacket layer for warmth; 3) rain jacket on top. Add or subtract layers depending on the temperature.

Maps, GPS and waymarking

It would be difficult if not impossible to source and then carry the paper maps required to cover the entire route. Detailed Italian hiking maps are hard to come by, and, besides, a comprehensive coverage would involve a great many individual sheets – too many, indeed, to make it a practical option.

Although walking directions are given in great detail in this guide, and each stage includes a 1:50,000 ‘overview’ map, it may ease worries to have a GPS or GPS-equipped smartphone application for additional help. GPX tracks for the entire walk can be downloaded at www.cicerone.co.uk. High-quality smartphone navigation apps like Guru Maps, Gaia GPS, AllTrails and others allow tracks to be easily downloaded onto your smartphone. When shopping for a GPS app, make sure to find one that allows downloadable maps so that it is not necessary to be connected to a cell service while hiking.

Italy has an extensive system of hiking trails, and often the route follows portions of this network. Maintained by volunteers of the Club Alpino Italiano (CAI), the trails are marked in horizontal red-and-white stripes, often with the trail number superimposed in black marker. In this book, all references to CAI trails in walking directions refer to the red-and-white striped markings. CAI trails are usually identified in Open Cycle Maps, which makes it an excellent base map resource for GPS users.

For details of the different pilgrimage waymarkers you will encounter along the Way, see ‘The modern Way of St Francis’, above.

Using this guide

The same pattern of information is given for each of the daily stages specified in this guide. The guide also shares brief information about cities, and stories from the life of St Francis relating to Franciscan sites you will encounter. The book’s print format has intentionally been kept very small in order to fit easily into a rucksack.

Fields of sunflowers on the way to Cittá di Castello (Stage 10)

Maps are provided for each stage, covering 20–30km in a small format – they are intended as overviews rather than step-by-step guidance. Also provided are elevation profiles, which have been generated using GPS information to provide a visual preview of the stage’s topography.

An information box at the start of each stage gives the day’s essential statistics: start and finish points, distance, total ascent and descent, difficulty rating, duration and any relevant notes. All distances, elevations and durations come from actual experience and were recorded by GPS to help walkers know their progress during the stage. Stages are rated as ‘Easy,’ ‘Moderate’, ‘Moderately Hard’ or ‘Hard’ based on a rating of climbs, descents and distance.

A brief introduction to the day’s walk is then given, and this is followed by a detailed route description, in which places along the way that are also shown on the stage maps are highlighted in bold to aid navigation. In most stages the walk directions are very specific because sometimes waymarks and signage are absent or poorly maintained.

Each daily stage features in its description at least 2–3 inexpensive accommodation options and a hostel where available. Telephone numbers are included for each, along with email addresses where possible.

At the end of the book, Appendix A provides a look-up table for the stages and distances of this 28-day itinerary; Appendix B comprises a list of contacts that may be of use and interest to visitors, both in planning and during the pilgrimage; and Appendix C gives some handy tips for understanding and being understood in Italian.

Entire books have been written about the sights that are described here in only a few sentences; the reader will hopefully understand that space limitations allow only brief summaries of what are the often quite complicated and profound sights on this walk. Appendix D contains a list of further reading that the pilgrim may find enlightening before, during and after their pilgrimage.