Читать книгу Alaskan Malamute - Thomas Stockman - Страница 9

WHERE TO BEGIN

If you are convinced that the Alaskan Malamute is the ideal dog for you, it’s time learn about where to find a puppy and what to look for. Locating a good breeder of Alaskan Malamutes should not present too much difficulty for a potential owner. You should inquire about breeders in your area who enjoy a good reputation in the breed. You are looking for an established breeder with outstanding dog ethics and a strong commitment to the breed. New owners should have as many questions as they have doubts. An established breeder is indeed the one to answer your four million questions and make you comfortable with your choice of the Alaskan Malamute. An established breeder will sell you a puppy at a fair price if, and only if, the breeder determines that you are a suitable, worthy owner of his dogs. An established breeder can be relied upon for advice, no matter what time of day or night. A reputable breeder will accept a puppy back, should you decide that this not the right dog for you.

FINDING A QUALIFIED BREEDER

Before you begin your puppy search, ask for references from your veterinarian and perhaps other breeders to refer you to someone they believe is reputable. Responsible breeders usually raise only one or two breeds of dog. Avoid any breeder who has several different breeds or has several litters at the same time. Dedicated breeders are usually involved with a breed or other dog club. Many participate in some sport or activity related to their breed. Just as you want to be assured of the breeder’s qualifications, the breeder wants to be assured that you will make a worthy owner. Expect the breeder to interview you, asking questions about your goals for the pup, your experience with dogs and what kind of home you will provide.

When choosing a breeder, reputation is much more important than convenience of location. Do not be overly impressed by breeders who run brag advertisements in the canine presses about their stupendous champions and working lines. The real quality breeders are quiet and unassuming. You hear about them at trials and shows, by word of mouth. You may be well advised to avoid the novice who lives only a few miles away. The local novice breeder, trying so hard to get rid of that first litter of puppies, is more than accommodating and anxious to sell you one. That breeder will charge you as much as any established breeder. The novice breeder isn’t going to interrogate you and your family about your intentions with the puppy, the environment and training you can provide, etc. That breeder will be nowhere to be found when your poorly bred, badly adjusted four-pawed monster starts to growl, chew up everything in sight and pick fights with the family cat!

Choosing a breeder is an important first step in dog ownership. Fortunately, the majority of Alaskan Malamute breeders are devoted to the breed and its well-being. New owners should have little problem finding a reputable breeder in their state or region of the country. The breed’s national parent club, the Alaskan Malamute Club of America, and its regional clubs, along with the AKC, are trusted sources to refer you to ethical breeders. Potential owners are encouraged to attend conformation shows or performance events to see quality American Alaskan Malamutes in action, to meet the owners and handlers firsthand and to get an idea of what Alaskan Malamutes look like outside a photographer’s lens. Provided you approach the handlers when they are not busy with the dogs, most are more than willing to answer questions, recommend breeders and give advice.

Choosing a breeder is not always easy. If possible, observe adult dogs of the breeder’s bloodline to see if you like how they mature.

Once you have contacted and met a breeder or two and made your choice about which breeder is best suited to your needs, it’s time to visit the litter. Keep in mind that many top breeders have waiting lists, so be prepared to wait for a puppy. If you are really committed to the breeder whom you’ve selected, then you will wait (and hope for an early arrival!). If not, you may have to go with your second- or third-choice breeder. Don’t be too anxious, however. If the breeder doesn’t have a waiting list, or interest in his puppies, there is probably a good reason.

The temperament and personality of the dam will be reflected in her progeny. Like begets like, and if you don’t like the dam, you likely won’t be happy with one of her pups.

Since you are likely choosing an Alaskan Malamute as a pet dog and not a working dog, you simply should select a pup that is friendly and attractive. While the basic structure and temperament of the breed has little variation, individual personality varies from pup to pup. Beware of the shy or overly aggressive puppy; be especially conscious of the nervous Alaskan Malamute pup. Don’t let sentiment or emotion trap you into buying the runt of the litter.

The sex of your puppy is largely a matter of personal taste, although males grow up to be a bit larger. Coloration is not a grave concern with this breed; the color pattern you choose in a pet dog is based on your personal preference. Alaskan Malamutes are beautiful dogs with striking markings, and color does not affect their potential as a pet or working dog. Remember that these dogs were bred primarily for working ability, not beauty; Malamutes are natural beauties whose form was intended for their function.

Breeders commonly allow visitors to see the litter by around the fifth or sixth week, and puppies leave for their new homes between the eighth and tenth week. Breeders who permit their puppies to leave early are more interested in a profit than in their puppies’ well-being. Puppies need to learn the rules of the trade from their dams, and most dams continue teaching the pups manners and “dos and don’ts” until around the eighth week. Breeders spend significant amounts of time with the Alaskan Malamute toddlers so that they are able to interact with the “other species,” i.e., humans. Given the long history that dogs and humans have, bonding between the two species is natural but must be nurtured. A well-bred, well-socialized Alaskan Malamute pup wants nothing more than to be near you and to please you.

A SHOW PUPPY

If you plan to show your puppy, you must first deal with a reputable breeder who shows his dogs and has had some success in the conformation ring. The puppy’s pedigree should include one or more champions in the first and second generation. You should be familiar with the breed and breed standard so you can know what qualities to look for in your puppy. The breeder’s observations and recommendations also are invaluable aids in selecting your future champion. If you consider an older puppy, be sure that the puppy has been properly socialized with people and not isolated in a kennel without substantial daily human contact.

It’s not easy to select a puppy from a litter of healthy, happy and well-bred Malamute puppies, as one is as cute and irresistible as the next!

A COMMITTED NEW OWNER

By now you should understand what makes the Alaskan Malamute a most unique and special dog, one that will fit nicely into your family and lifestyle. If you have researched breeders, you should be able to recognize a knowledgeable and responsible Alaskan Malamute breeder who cares not only about his pups but also about what kind of owner you will be. If you have completed the final step in your new journey, you have found a litter, or possibly two, of quality Alaskan Malamute pups.

SIGNS OF A HEALTHY PUPPY

Healthy puppies are robust little fellows who are alert and active, sporting shiny coats and supple skin. They should not appear lethargic, bloated or pot-bellied, nor should they have flaky skin or runny or crusted eyes or noses. Their stools should be firm and well formed, with no evidence of blood or mucus.

A visit with the puppies and their breeder should be an education in itself. Breed research, breeder selection and puppy visitation are very important aspects of finding the puppy of your dreams. Beyond that, these things also lay the foundation for a successful future with your pup. Puppy personalities within each litter vary, from the shy and easygoing puppy to the one who is dominant and assertive, with most pups falling somewhere in between. By spending time with the puppies, you will be able to recognize certain behaviors and what these behaviors indicate about each pup’s temperament. Which type of pup will complement your family dynamics is best determined by observing the puppies in action within their “pack.” Your breeder’s expertise and recommendations are also valuable. Although you may fall in love with a bold and brassy male, the breeder may suggest that another pup would be best for you. The breeder’s experience in rearing Alaskan Malamute pups and matching their temperaments with appropriate humans offers the best assurance that your pup will meet your needs and expectations. The type of puppy that you select is just as important as your decision that the Alaskan Malamute is the breed for you.

PEDIGREE VS. REGISTRATION CERTIFICATE

Too often new owners are confused between these two important documents. Your puppy’s pedigree, essentially a family tree, is a written record of a dog’s genealogy of three generations or more. The pedigree will show you the names as well as performance titles of all dogs in your pup’s background. Your breeder must provide you with a registration application, with his part properly filled out. You must complete the application and send it to the AKC with the proper fee. Every puppy must come from a litter that has been AKC-registered by the breeder, born in the US and from a sire and dam that are also registered with the AKC.

The seller must provide you with complete records to identify the puppy. The AKC requires that the seller provide the buyer with the following: breed; sex, color and markings; date of birth; litter number (when available); names and registration numbers of the parents; breeder’s name; and date sold or delivered.

Malamute puppies should be outgoing and friendly toward visitors. Choose the puppy that chooses you!

The decision to live with an Alaskan Malamute is a serious commitment and not one to be taken lightly. This puppy is a living sentient being that will be dependent on you for basic survival for his entire life. Beyond the basics of survival—food, water, shelter and protection—he needs much, much more. The new pup needs love, nurturing and a proper canine education to mold him into a responsible, well-behaved canine citizen. Your Alaskan Malamute’s health and good manners will need consistent monitoring and regular “tune-ups,” so your job as a responsible dog owner will be ongoing throughout every stage of his life. If you are not prepared to accept these responsibilities and commit to them for the next decade, likely longer, then you are not prepared to own a dog of any breed.

Although the responsibilities of owning a dog may at times tax your patience, the joy of living with your Alaskan Malamute far outweighs the workload, and a well-mannered adult dog is well worth your time and effort in raising him right. Before your very eyes, your new charge will grow up to be your most loyal friend, devoted to you unconditionally.

YOUR ALASKAN MALAMUTE SHOPPING LIST

Just as expectant parents prepare a nursery for their baby, so should you ready your home for the arrival of your Alaskan Malamute pup. If you have the necessary puppy supplies purchased and in place before he comes home, it will ease the puppy’s transition from the warmth and familiarity of his mom and littermates to the brand-new environment of his new home and human family. You will be too busy to stock up and prepare your house after your pup comes home, that’s for sure! Imagine how a pup must feel upon being transported to a strange new place. It’s up to you to comfort him and to let your little pup know that he is going to be happy with you.

Meeting the litter and getting to know what’s underneath these little balls of fluff is the fun part of the puppy-picking process.

FOOD AND WATER BOWLS

Your puppy will need separate bowls for his food and water. Stainless steel pans are generally preferred over plastic bowls since they sterilize better and pups are less inclined to chew on the metal. Heavy-duty ceramic bowls are popular, but consider how often you will have to pick up those heavy bowls. Buy adult-sized pans, as your Malamute puppy will grow into them before you know it.

THE DOG CRATE

If you think that crates are tools of punishment and confinement for when a dog has misbehaved, think again. Most breeders and almost all trainers recommend a crate as the preferred house-training aid as well as for all-around puppy training and safety. Because dogs are natural den creatures that prefer cave-like environments, the benefits of crate use are many. The crate provides the puppy with his very own “safe house,” a cozy place to sleep, take a break or seek comfort with a favorite toy; a travel aid to house your dog when on the road, at motels or at the vet’s office; a training aid to help teach your puppy proper toileting habits; a place of solitude when non-dog people happen to drop by and don’t want a lively puppy—or even a well-behaved adult dog—saying hello or begging for their attention.

A Malamute pup is a loving, adoring living creature wrapped in a fuzzy package.

Most puppies adjust quickly to their new surroundings. Make your Malamute feel that your home is his home.

Crates come in several types, although the wire crate and the fiberglass airline-type crate are the most common. Both are safe and your puppy will adjust to either one, so the choice is up to you. The wire crates offer better visibility for the pup as well as better ventilation. Many of the wire crates easily collapse into suitcase-size carriers. The fiberglass crates, similar to those used by the airlines for animal transport, are sturdier and more den-like. However, the fiberglass crates do not collapse and are less ventilated than a wire crate, which can be problematic in hot weather. Some of the newer crates are made of heavy plastic or fabric mesh; they are very lightweight and fold up into slim-line suitcases. However, a mesh crate might not be suitable for a pup with manic chewing habits.

Don’t bother with a puppy-sized crate. Although your Alaskan Malamute will be a wee fellow when you bring him home, he will grow up in the blink of an eye and your puppy crate will be useless. Purchase a crate that will accommodate an adult Alaskan Malamute. He will stand around 2 feet tall at the shoulder when full grown, so a large-sized crate will be necessary.

BEDDING AND CRATE PADS

Your puppy will enjoy some type of soft bedding in his “room” (the crate), something he can snuggle into to feel cozy and secure. Old towels or blankets are good choices for a young pup, since he may (and probably will) have a toileting accident or two in the crate or decide to chew on the bedding material. Once he is fully trained and out of the early chewing stage, you can replace the puppy bedding with a permanent crate pad if you prefer. Crate pads and other dog beds run the gamut from inexpensive to high-end doggie-designer styles, but don’t splurge on the good stuff until you are sure that your puppy is reliable and won’t tear it up or make a mess on it.

Fabric mesh (left), fiberglass (top) and wire (right) are the most commonly used types of crates for dogs. A large crate for your Malamute will be available at most pet-supply stores.

PUPPY TOYS

Just as infants and older children require objects to stimulate their minds and bodies, puppies need toys to entertain their curious brains, wiggly paws and achy teeth. A fun array of safe doggie toys will help satisfy your puppy’s chewing instincts and distract him from gnawing on the leg of your antique chair or your new leather sofa. Most puppy toys are cute and look as if they would be a lot of fun, but not all are necessarily safe or good for your puppy, so use caution when you go puppy-toy shopping.

CRATE EXPECTATIONS

To make the crate more inviting to your puppy, you can offer his first meal or two inside the crate, always keeping the crate door open so that he does not feel confined. Keep a favorite toy or two in the crate for him to play with while inside. You can also cover the crate at night with a lightweight sheet to make it more den-like and remove the stimuli of household activity. Never put him into his crate as punishment or as you are scolding him, since he will then associate his crate with negative situations and avoid going there.

TOYS ‘R SAFE

The vast array of tantalizing puppy is staggering. Stroll through any pet shop or pet-supply outlet and you will see that the choices can be overwhelming. However, not all dog toys are safe or sensible. Most very young puppies enjoy soft woolly toys that they can snuggle with and carry around. (You know they have outgrown them when they shred them up!) Avoid toys that have buttons, tabs or other enhancements that can be chewed off and swallowed. Soft toys that squeak are fun, but make sure your puppy does not disembowel the toy and remove (and swallow) the squeaker. Toys that rattle or make noise can excite a puppy, but they present the same danger as the squeaky kind and so require supervision. Hard rubber toys that bounce can also entertain a pup, but make sure that the toy is too big for your pup to swallow.

Although Alaskan Malamutes are not known to be voracious chewers like many other dogs, they still love to chew. The best “chewcifiers” are nylon and hard rubber bones; many are safe to gnaw on and come in sizes appropriate for all age groups and breeds. Be especially careful of natural bones, which can splinter or develop dangerous sharp edges; pups can easily swallow or choke on those bone splinters. Veterinarians often tell of surgical nightmares involving bits of splintered bone, because in addition to the danger of choking, the sharp pieces can damage the intestinal tract.

Similarly, rawhide chews, while a favorite of most dogs and puppies, can be equally dangerous. Pieces of rawhide are easily swallowed after they get all gummy from chewing, and dogs have been known to choke on large pieces of ingested rawhide. Rawhide chews should be offered only when you can supervise the puppy.

Soft woolly toys are special puppy favorites. They come in a wide variety of cute shapes and sizes; some look like little stuffed animals. Puppies love to shake them up and toss them about, or simply carry them around. Be careful of fuzzy toys that have button eyes or noses that your pup could chew off and swallow, and make sure that he does not disembowel a squeaky toy to remove the squeaker! Braided rope toys are similar in that they are fun to chew and toss around, but they shred easily and the strings are easy to swallow. The strings are not digestible and, if the puppy doesn’t pass them in his stool, he could end up at the vet’s office. As with rawhides, your puppy should be closely monitored with rope toys.

If you believe that your pup has ingested one of these harmful objects, check his stools for the next couple of days to see if he passes it when he defecates. At the same time, also watch for signs of intestinal distress. A call to your veterinarian might be in order to get his advice and be on the safe side.

An all-time favorite toy for puppies (young and old!) is the empty gallon milk jug. Hard plastic juice containers—46 ounces or more—are also excellent. Such containers make lots of noise when they are batted about, and puppies go crazy with delight as they play with them. However, they don’t often last very long, so be sure to remove and replace them when they get chewed up.

CONFINEMENT

It is wise to keep your puppy confined to a small “puppy-proofed” area of the house for his first few weeks at home. Gate or block off a space near the door he will use for outdoor potty trips. Expandable baby gates are useful to create puppy’s designated area. If he is allowed to roam through the entire house or even only several rooms, it will be more difficult to house-train him.

A word of caution about homemade toys: be careful with your choices of non-traditional play objects. Never use old shoes or socks, since a puppy cannot distinguish between the old ones on which he’s allowed to chew and the new ones in your closet that are strictly off limits. That principle applies to anything that resembles something that you don’t want your puppy to chew.

Stands at dog shows offer all kinds of pet supplies, from the everyday to the outrageous!

COLLARS

A lightweight nylon collar is the best choice for a very young pup. Quick-clip collars are easy to put on and remove, and they can be adjusted as the puppy grows. Introduce him to his collar as soon as he comes home to get him accustomed to wearing it. He’ll get used to it quickly and won’t mind a bit. Make sure that it is snug enough that it won’t slip off, yet loose enough to be comfortable for the pup. You should be able to slip two fingers between the collar and his neck. Check the collar often, as puppies grow in spurts, and his collar can become too tight almost overnight, and don’t forget that the Malamute has a lot of coat to fit under that collar! Choke collars are for training purposes only and should never be used on a puppy under four or five months old. If you decide to use a choke collar, you must choose one that is designed not to damage a dog’s coat.

Provide your Malamute puppy with clean bedding and safe playthings. This youngster seems quite content in his new surroundings.

LEASHES

A 6-foot nylon lead is an excellent choice for a young puppy. It is lightweight and not as tempting to chew as a leather lead. You can switch to a 6-foot leather lead after your pup has grown and is used to walking politely on a lead. For initial puppy walks and house-training purposes, you should invest in a shorter lead so that you have more control over the puppy. At first, you don’t want him wandering too far away from you and, when taking him out for toileting, you will want to keep him in the specific area chosen for his potty spot.

COLLARING OUR CANINES

The standard flat collar with a buckle or a snap, in leather, nylon or cotton, is widely regarded as the everyday all-purpose collar. If the collar fits correctly, you should be able to fit two fingers between the collar and the dog’s neck.

Leather Buckle Collars

The martingale, Greyhound or limited-slip collar is preferred by many dog owners and trainers. It is fixed with an extra loop that tightens when pressure is applied to the leash. The martingale collar gets tighter but does not “choke” the dog. The limited-slip collar should only be used for walking and training, not for free play or interaction with another dog. These types of collar should never be left on the dog, as the extra loop can lead to accidents.

Limited-Slip Collar

Snap Bolt Choke Collar

Nylon Collar

Quick-Click Closure

Choke Chain Collars

Harness

Choke collars, usually made of stainless steel, are made for training purposes, though are not recommended for small dogs or heavily coated breeds. The chains can injure small dogs or damage long/abundant coats. Thin nylon choke leads are commonly used on show dogs while in the ring, though they are not practical for everyday use.

The harness, with two or three straps that attach over the dog’s shoulders and around his torso, is a humane and safe alternative to the conventional collar. By and large, a well-made harness is virtually escape-proof. Harnesses are available in nylon and mesh and can be outfitted on most dogs, with chest girths ranging from 10 to 30 inches.

A head collar, composed of a nylon strap that goes around the dog’s muzzle and a second strap that wraps around his neck, offers the owner better control over his dog. This device is recommended for problem-solving with dogs (including jumping up, pulling and aggressive behaviors), but must be used with care.

A training halter, including a flat collar and two straps, made of nylon and webbing, is designed for walking. There are several on the market; some are more difficult to put on the dog than others. The halter harness, with two small slip rings at each end, is recommended for ease of use.

TOXIC PLANTS

Plants are natural puppy magnets, but many can be harmful, even fatal, if ingested by a puppy or adult dog. Scout your yard and home interior and remove any plants, bushes or flowers that could be even mildly dangerous. It could save your puppy’s life. You can obtain a complete list of toxic plants from your veterinarian, at the public library or by looking online.

Once the puppy is heel-trained with a traditional leash, you can consider purchasing a retractable lead. A flexible lead is excellent for walking adult dogs that are already leash-wise. The “flexi” allows the dog to roam farther away from you and explore a wider area when out walking, and also retracts when you need to keep him close to you. If you are confident that your Malamute will behave politely given the added freedom of a flexi, be sure to purchase a sturdy one made for large dogs.

HOME SAFETY FOR YOUR PUPPY

The importance of puppy-proofing cannot be overstated. In addition to making your house comfortable for your Alaskan Malamute’s arrival, you also must make sure that your house is safe for your puppy before you bring him home. There are countless hazards in the owner’s personal living environment that a pup can sniff, chew, swallow or destroy. Many are obvious; others are not. Do a thorough advance house check to remove or rearrange those things that could hurt your puppy, keeping any potentially dangerous items out of areas to which he will have access.

Electrical cords are especially dangerous, since puppies view them as irresistible chew toys. Unplug and remove all exposed cords or fasten them beneath a baseboard where the puppy cannot reach them. Veterinarians and firefighters can tell you horror stories about electrical burns and house fires that resulted from puppy-chewed electrical cords. Consider this a most serious precaution for your puppy and the rest of your family.