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ОглавлениеINTRODUCTION
When you go out into the big forest
Look not behind you
Lest your heart be heavy
As you set foot in a foreign land.
(Hungarian folk song)
The Highlands of Hungary
Every nation projects an image of its landscape to the outside world. In Hungary it is the Great Plain, and most visitors to Hungary are unaware that large areas of the country are covered in highlands and rolling hills with deep wooded valleys, high karst meadows and rocky viewpoints. A walk along the ridges of the Mátra and the Börzsöny or the limestone outcrops of the Bükk will dispel the myth that Hungary is a flat country. Hungary’s highland chain of humpback mountains, limestone plateaux and buttes was formed by a combination of volcanic activity and the raising of tropical seabed sediments. There are about 13 000km (8025 miles) of tracks and trails in the hills. For centuries they have been used by medieval miners, Turkish janissaries (soldiers), pillaging Hussites, herders, beekeepers, charcoal-burners and foundry workers. These ancient highways are now a network of walking paths with a system of waymarks first set up in the nineteenth century.
How the Guide is Organised
This introductory chapter provides practical information about getting to Hungary and what to do on arrival. There is advice on the public transport network, accommodation, maps, the waymarking system and access. Finally, there are introductions to the natural, social and walking history of the hills.
The routes are set out in the guide by region. For simplicity’s sake the highland areas of Hungary are divided into two main regions: Northern Hungary (north and east of the Danube) including the Aggtelek karst, Börzsöny, Mátra, Bükk and Zemplén; and Transdanubia (west of the Danube) including the Bakony, Balaton Uplands, Buda Hills, Mecsek, Pilis and Vértes. The summary map of Hungary shows the approximate position of each region.
All the major highland groups of Hungary are described and each region has an introduction including a brief description of the hills and their position, regional history, useful information about how to get there, and points of interest on or near the walks. Individual route instructions provide a short facts section: a summary of the route; walking distance; which map to buy; local public transport; refreshment stops if any; and a brief description of the type of walking to be expected. Distances are initially calculated in kilometres. Miles are given in brackets with the conversion roughly rounded to the nearest half mile. Alternative routes, diversions and quick escapes are clearly demarcated from the main description. Timings are not given as experience suggests that they depend on the fitness of the walker. The walks are not aimed at the incredibly fit, and even the longest route should take no longer than a day at moderate speed. Accompanying the route information is a route map. Every walk stands alone but a few can be linked up to lengthen the route. Hungary’s rich and complex history ensures that the walking passes many interesting features from fortress ruins to beehive stones. Points of interest listed in the introduction to each regional section are highlighted in bold in the main text.
Finally, the appendices supply an introduction to the Hungarian language – a list of simple words and phrases to help the English speaker get by in rural Hungary; a glossary to aid Hungarian walking map interpretation; and a list of useful addresses.
Getting to Hungary
Visas
British visitors to Hungary require a valid passport with at least six months before expiry. Nationals of selected European countries can enter with an identity card – check with the Hungarian embassy for an up-to-date list. Citizens of the European Union do not require a visa for stays of up to six months but citizens of the USA, Canada, South Africa and New Zealand can only stay up to 90 days without an extension. Hungarian border guards are generally not difficult to deal with if you fulfil the above criteria but expect them to be suspicious if you cross the border on foot carrying a backpack. Visa requirements change from time to time – always check the latest position with the Hungarian embassy before making travel arrangements.
Travelling to Hungary
The Hungarian national airline is MALÉV but British Airways, KLM, Alitalia and Delta have regular flights to Hungary although this list is not exhaustive. Flights arrive at Budapest Ferihegy international airport. Rail travel across Western Europe can be as expensive as flying, but students and travellers under 26 might consider a European rail pass also valid for travel within Hungary. The over-26 rail pass can be expensive if coming from as far as the UK, Ireland or Scandinavia as the journey to Budapest crosses several zones. Travelling around Hungary by train is so cheap it is probably not worth the outlay. Eurolines runs regular coach services from all over Europe to Budapest, although the journey takes 25 hours from London. If travelling from Western Europe by car the main entry point is through Austria at the busy Hegyeshalom border checkpoint, but expect delays during holiday periods. Hungary’s major highway, the M1, starts from here and it is necessary to pay a toll to use it. (See Getting Around Hungary below for an explanation of the system.) If planning a more circuitous route into Hungary – via Slovakia, for example – check with the Hungarian embassy first, as some of these border crossings are for Slovakian and Hungarian citizens only.
Vadálló-kövek,Visegrád Hills,Walk 29
Money
The Hungarian currency is the forint and can be obtained from a few travel agents in countries of the European Union, but take some cash and travellers’ cheques. Exchanging money in Hungary is usually commission-free, but exchange booths at international arrival points always have a poor rate. Ignore approaches from the illegal money-dealers. Hotels and banks also offer poor rates, so shop around the dozens of exchange booths in central Budapest for the best deal. Instant access to cash is easy for holders of ATM or credit cards as cash dispensing machines can be found in cities and larger towns (but not in villages). Internationally recognised cards are acceptable, and machines in Hungary have an English-language option on the display screen. Bear in mind that every time you make a withdrawal your bank back home will probably charge you a transaction fee based on a percentage of the amount withdrawn. Credit cards are accepted in most shops and restaurants in Budapest and other tourist destinations. Credit card fraud is present but probably no higher than any other European country.
Budapest
Arriving at Budapest
If arriving by air, Ferihegy international airport is 20km (15 miles) from central Budapest. There are plans to build a train link direct from the terminal to central Budapest, but until then there is an information point in the arrivals building with English-speaking staff. The most expensive options are the door-to-door shuttle service; book at one of the desks in the terminal. A taxi is good value if travelling in a group, but use only the regulated City Taxi and Teletaxi companies who charge a fixed fee. A cheaper option is the airport shuttle bus departing every half hour from the front of the terminal building. It terminates near Deák tér in central Budapest, convenient for the Metro, trams and the 24- hour tourist information office on Vörösmarty tér. This shuttle service stops running at about 11pm. Shuttle bus and taxi drivers speak enough English, but for seasoned travellers looking for the cheapest option catch the municipal airport bus (Rep-Tér busz). It also departs from the front of the terminal building, but you will need some loose change or low denomination notes. The driver is unlikely to speak English and the journey terminates at the suburb of Kőbánya, from where it is necessary to get on the Metro (head up the steps of the shopping centre) to continue the journey to Deák tér in central Budapest.
Bell tower, Jósvafő, Aggtelek, Walk 1
If travelling by train from Western and Northern Europe international arrivals terminate at Budapest Keleti (Budapest East) although a few services arrive at Budapest Déli (Budapest South). Both stations have Metro connections. There are several tourist agencies operating from Budapest Keleti, but head for the Hungarian State Railway (MÁV) information office which is to the right and at the top of the stairs leading down to the main concourse.
International coaches from capital cities in Europe arrive at Budapest Népliget bus station. Take the Metro (Blue Line) for the centre of town. There are left-luggage facilities (csomagmegőrző) at Budapest Népliget bus station and Budapest Keleti railway station.
Accommodation
The Hungarian tourist authority, Tourinform, has several branches in Budapest (see Appendix 4) and one of them is open 24 hours. The helpful staff can speak English or German and will gladly provide a copy of their free map of the city and public transport network. Unfortunately Tourinform do not book accommodation, but what they will do is supply leaflets and brochures and point you in the direction of private accommodation agencies who add a booking fee to the price. As long as the familiar big hotel chains are avoided, bed and breakfast at a medium-sized hotel or panzió in or near central Budapest can be very reasonable. As the city is a good base for many of the walks in the guide, a family or group might consider a self-catering apartment in the centre of the town. Ask at the accommodation agency for a viewing before you make a decision. For budget accommodation the Tourinform office publishes free booklets listing backpacker hostels and campsites.
Navigating Budapest
The centre of Budapest is a safe and pleasant place to walk around, although the usual warnings about pickpockets and bag thieves apply. Beware of con men posing as plainclothes policemen asking to see your passport. In the event of a problem the 24-hour Tourinform office on Vörösmarty tér will offer assistance and contact the police.
There is an extensive public transport system of buses, trams, trolley buses, Metro and a suburban railway (HÉV). Railway and bus stations with services to walking areas have a Metro connection. Buy a travel pass to get around most of Budapest or, if taking a more relaxed approach to sightseeing, a ten-ticket booklet (tízes jegytömb). Otherwise individual tickets for hopping on the occasional tram are very cheap. The universal public transport ticket is available at Metro stations, newspaper kiosks or machine dispensers. A word of warning: a system of self-validation is in operation and it is important to validate the ticket at one of the machines at the top of escalators in the Metro or attached to handrails in buses and trams. There are now posters in English explaining the different types of ticket available and how the system works. Inspectors carry out regular checks and will not accept excuses that you cannot speak Hungarian or were unable to find a place to buy a ticket. If travelling on the HÉV suburban railway, be aware that the little tickets bought in the Metro or in booths are only valid as far as the city boundary which, if heading for Szentendre in order to walk in the Pilis, ends at Békásmegyer. Ticket inspectors on the HÉV seem to be more flexible and will probably only ask for the surplus charge for the rest of the journey, but it is better to buy the full ticket at the station to avoid potential problems.
If you have a few days in the city the Budapest Card will save standing in long queues and dealing with ticket sellers who often speak little English. As well as unlimited public transport travel the card offers free admission to the city’s museums and discounts on car hire, the airport minibus, sightseeing tours, excursions and concert tickets. Two- or three-day cards are available from Tourinform offices, Metro stations, travel agencies and hotels. Each card is valid for one adult plus a child under 14.
Shopping and Eating
If self-catering in Budapest, groceries are cheap and there is plenty of variety. Local branches of the corner shop chain CBA have most things at a competitive price. There are also large supermarkets in Budapest and the city now boasts the biggest shopping centre in Europe. Late-night corner shops are everywhere and some open 24 hours, although they are more expensive. Head for the southern end of Váci utca for the big indoor market (Vásárcsarnok) where bunches of fiery-red paprika, fruit, vegetables, tanks of live carp caught in the River Tisza, and barrels of pickles combine to create a medley of sights and smells.
In the tourist areas there are bars and restaurants and market stalls selling all kinds of gifts, but national specialities such as the famous Tokaj wine or the rather strong spirit made from fruit, pálinka, are cheaper in the ordinary supermarkets away from the main tourist drag. If planning to visit the Zemplén do not buy ceramics on Váci utca but visit the factory shop in Hollóháza.
Food and hospitality is central to Hungarian culture but the diversity of traditional Hungarian cuisine owes more to Ottoman and Habsburg domination than to the culinary skills of the nomadic Magyars. Today Hungarians are even more open to outside influences, and eating out in Budapest ranges from fast food to haute cuisine. Vegetarian restaurants and salad bars are a new addition to this traditionally carnivorous culture. Budapest’s restaurants and cafés need not be expensive, but if on a budget avoid establishments in the tourist district around Vörösmarty tér and along Váci utca. For a Hungarian experience and a glimpse at the underbelly of Budapest, order a plate of fried fish, sausage and a hunk of bread washed down with a beer from one of the many snack bars up on the gallery of the big indoor market. Before the tradition dies out make sure you try one of the butcher shops (Hús-hentesáru); as well as selling meat they offer cheap fry-ups with beer on the premises. Alternatively, explore the side streets for a cheap Hungarian restaurant. In the last ten years there has been a boom in bars catering for expats missing their regular tipple, but for the cheapest drinking and local colour try a typical Hungarian pub, or söröző.
Sightseeing
The pock-marks of bullets and shrapnel on a few buildings are a reminder of Budapest’s violent past, but extensive renovation work is gradually returning the city to its 1896 grandeur, when it was hailed as Central Europe’s Paris. The grandness of the city can best be appreciated on the promenade along the east bank of the Danube. From here the National Palace and castellations of the Fisherman’s Bastion provide a dramatic backdrop for this historic river. Museums and galleries are cheap, but there are also discounts for children, students, or free entry for holders of the Budapest Card mentioned above. The grand Gothic-style parliament on Kossuth tér is worth a visit, and the Ethnographic Museum opposite has a permanent exhibition about the life and regional costumes of some of the hill peoples described in this guide. On Hősök tere (Heroes’ Square) there is a magnificent monument to the Magyar conquest, but if you are interested in some of the less durable heroes of Hungarian history the city’s socialist realist monuments can now be viewed at the rather bizarre open-air Statue Park west of Budapest.
Avas church ruin, Szigliget, Balaton Uplands, Walk 23
If you have a couple of days to spare at the beginning and end of the walking then this is enough time to get a feel for this great city. There are plenty of guides to Budapest – an excellent one is András Török’s Budapest: A Critical Guide available in the city’s many English-language book shops. For free advice have a chat with one of the staff at the Tourinform office who will be glad to give you some ideas about what to see in a limited amount of time and how to get there.
When To Go Walking
National Holidays
Europe’s Easter, Christmas, New Year and school holidays (mid-June to end of August) will put pressure on accommodation. In addition, Hungarians often head for the hills and book up the walking hostels on the following national days: 15 March (1848–49 Revolution), 1 May (Labour Day), Whitsun Monday, 20 August (Constitution Day), 23 October (1956 Revolution and Republic Day).
Climate
Hungary’s climate is a transitional stage between temperate Western Europe and the harsher extremes of the East. Mediterranean air masses raise temperatures in summer and continental air masses lower them in winter. As a result summers can be very hot and winters severely cold, with most precipitation falling in the hills as snow. Walking is possible all year but each season has its pros and cons.
For the walker spring is a pleasant season to get up to the hills, when early flowers brighten the karst meadows, fruit trees are heavy with blossom and the forest full of birdsong. Hungarians often complain that spring is too short, and the transition from winter to summer does seem quite rapid. It can be cool in the evenings and wet at times but expect warm weather as March progresses. Summers are long – the hot weather begins in April and lasts into early October. Midsummer temperatures can rise to 35°C (95°F) but cold fronts pass through from time to time bringing respite from the heat. Summer brings occasional thunderstorms, but hot and dry weather is the norm. The best time to go in summer is May or June when the greenery is still fresh, or August when the meadow flowers are in full bloom. Walkers who prefer cooler weather should consider autumn, when the northern hills experience a refreshing chill from about mid-September.
Expect more rain, but from mid-October the autumn colours in the forests are spectacular. In November the clocks change and there is less daylight walking time. Winter temperature in the hills is on average 5°C (41°F) but on extreme days it can drop to -20°C (-4°F), although the high slopes escape the temperature sink effect experienced on the Great Plain. The northern hills are the coldest and expect snow between late November and March. In Hungary, as in the rest of Europe, the winter snow line has receded and there are now longer periods without cover than there were in the past. Winter weather is stable: if a day starts crisp and windless in the morning it is likely to remain that way all day. Walking across deserted trails through frozen snow is very rewarding, but many of the routes in the guide are written with longer daylight hours in mind. Hungary’s highlands do not experience alpinestyle hazards, but only experienced hill walkers should venture into thehills in winter. It is also the hunting season, so keep clear of the hills at dusk and dawn and stay on the waymarked routes.
Badacsony, Balaton Uplands, Walk 23
Clothing and Accessories
No special clothing or equipment is required to walk in Hungary. Veterans with hard feet will find that a sturdy pair of training shoes will suffice in summer and autumn, although light leather walking boots or at the very least fabric boots are recommended. During prolonged wet spells wear boots, as the trails can get very muddy, and in winter snow lies deep and gaiters are useful. In summer wear light cotton clothing and a sun hat with an ample brim to protect the neck, and if fair-skinned apply sun block. Whatever the season take a waterproof jacket. Shorts are ideal in summer but be aware of ticks (see Health). In winter wear layers and a warm hat. Take a torch for emergency night navigation. On long walks in summer carry about two litres of water per person if there are no resupply points along the way. In villages summer dress is casual; shorts and T-shirt are perfectly acceptable but be sensitive if visiting a place of worship.
Rural Accommodation
There is something to be said for walking into a village and looking for a room, but without a command of basic Hungarian it is not always easy to find one. With the exception of the shores of Lake Balaton, where a zimmer frei (vacancies) notice screams at you from every gate, Hungarian villagers are slow to advertise their spare rooms. If you feel confident enough speaking some Hungarian the village pub is a good place to ask, where the locals will try to help.
As a precaution start at one of Budapest’s branches of Tourinform (see Appendix 4) whose Englishspeaking staff will provide accommodation brochures and advice on where to stay. The branch at Király utca specialises in rural accommodation. Regional offices maintain their own databases of local accommodation and might be able to provide a brochure or offprint. The types of accommodation available in the hills are described below, starting with the cheapest.
Wild Camping
Although this is a good way of getting deep into the hills and probably the only way of seeing the more secretive of Hungary’s mammals and birds, wild camping is not permitted in many walking areas. Nature Guards regularly patrol national park land and they have the power to fine and evict offenders. Outside national parks it is also illegal for foreigners to camp in forested areas without permission, and for safety reasons it is inadvisable to wild camp during the hunting season (October–January).
Forest cottages, Óbányai-v0lgy, Mecsek, Walk 25
Official Campsites and Chalets
There are two symbols on Hungarian walking maps denoting a campsite but their exact meaning is not always clear. As a rough guide the wigwam symbol (sátorozóhely) on Hungarian walking maps is a designated site that has few or no facilities and, depending on the circumstances, means that you can pitch a tent and perhaps light a fire free of charge. Unfortunately there are few such sites and the ones that are free have become overgrown. The other symbol, a triangle in a semicircle (kemping), is a pay-site with full facilities and often has little wooden chalets for hire. Tourinform publish a free brochure listing pay-sites, although it is not comprehensive as many householders offer camping spaces in their back garden. The phrase to ask whether there is a place to put your tent is Van sátorhely? The most campsite intensive (and expensive) region is along the shores of Lake Balaton. Pay-sites usually have good facilities including showers, kitchens and laundry points, but for a little extra you could find a decent room. The campsite season in Hungary is short and geared to school holidays.
Kulcsosházak
Literally ‘key houses’, these selfcatering cottages scattered around Hungary’s hills are situated in peaceful surroundings. Depending on your attitude to comfort it is a cheap way for a group of people to live close to the walking routes. The houses are often run by walking clubs or trade unions, but many are available to non-members and are popular with families and students. Facilities are often primitive; there is no running water or indoor toilet, although there are cooking hobs running on gas cylinders. When unoccupied the cottage is locked and the address and telephone number of the keyholder is on a noticeboard near the door, which is not very useful as by this time you are already a long way from the town where the warden lives. Unfortunately most of the keyholders do not speak English; booking has to be done weeks in advance in writing, and the houses are usually booked up months ahead for the summer and Christmas holidays. It is, however, an option worth considering if you know any Hungarians who can do the booking for you.
Walkers’ Hostels
Budget accommodation for walkers is limited in Hungary but it is still possible to stay in a turistaház or turistaszálló. They are marked on walking maps as a black rectangle with a little flag, and the word turistaház is usually translated as youth hostel. These establishments, many of which are former hunting lodges, are not members of the International Youth Hostel Association but are run by walking clubs, trade unions or state-controlled industries. Check at the local tourist office if you are expecting to stay at one of these establishments as some hostels marked on Hungarian walking maps are now out of use or are limited to pre-booked group hire. On the other hand, not all hostels are marked on the maps. The best ones are up in the hills away from the main roads, but most can be approached by car.
Hostel facilities are basic but clean and have hot showers, toilets and a canteen, although some establishments are beginning to look run down. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are available at extra cost, after which the price can compare with a private room in a village. Guests can eat their own food in the canteen or have communal cooking facilities. There is no curfew and drinking in the bar will go on into the night until someone complains or the warden (who also runs the bar) wants to get to bed. If you want to make a very early start the next day let the warden know as he probably locks the doors at night. Wardens do not speak English but many hostels have a friendly atmosphere, although do not expect to be surrounded by serious walkers and climbers nowadays.
Üdülő
An üdülő is another type of hostel. At best it is an old lodge set in pleasant surroundings, but many are rather utilitarian structures thrown up quickly during the 1950s. The üdülő dates back to the Communist period, when each state company ran its own recreation centres for the exclusive use of its workers. A few of these establishments are now open to outsiders. Accommodation is dormitory style, although there are more expensive family rooms. While these establishments are showing signs of decline, the bedding provided is clean.
Meals are of variable standard and add considerably to the cost. For some reason an üdülő is often more expensive than a turistaház. In summer large parties of children take over this type of hostel. If that is the case it is wise to avoid them, because even if you manage to get into a private room the largely unsupervised children will keep you up all night. It is all a matter of luck and season. A room in the village will probably be cheaper and more pleasant.
Establishments calling themselves a turistaház, turistaszálló or üdülő as well as hostels run by the state railway company and a few affiliated campsites are listed in the rarely updated Természetbarát Szálláshelyek published by Hungary’s main walking club, the MTSZ, or the Union of the Hungarian Friends of Nature. The book is available from the Cartographia map shop (see Appendix 4). For other budget accommodation the free Tourinform booklet Ifjúsági Szálláskatalógus is rather limited, as it only lists hostels affiliated to the International Youth Hostel Association, few of which are near walking routes.
Private Rooms and Apartments
When passing through a village, look for the following signs: szoba kiadó, zimmer frei and apartmen frei. Many private households offer a clean room or apartment with clean bedding for a reasonable price, although meals are not usually available.
Alternatively rent a room or apartment in a family house registered with the Falusi és Agroturizmus Országos Szövetsége (Hungarian Federation of Rural Tourism). Look for their logo (intertwined red and green hearts) on garden gates. Their free catalogue in Hungarian, English and German is available at their Budapest headquarters in Király utca (see Appendix 4). Booking accommodation is not strictly part of their service but they will, if pressed, telephone a householder for tourists who cannot speak Hungarian. Many of the properties in the scheme are also listed on the Centre of Rural Tourism website (see Appendix 4) which has an English-language option. Their packages also include hands-on farming experience, green tourism and activities geared to children. Depending on the setup you will either share bathroom facilities with the family or hire a separate apartment with en suite bathroom and kitchen. Price per night is reasonable, but expect it to rise during public holidays, especially Christmas and Easter. Meals are often available for an additional charge. You are not obliged to eat your host’s food but do let them know in advance if you require feeding. If you cannot speak Hungarian there will be some silences at dinner, although it is rarely awkward as the householders in the scheme are usually friendly. Some families will ply you with wine all night and insist on speaking to you in pidgin German.
Villagers, Regéc, Zemplén,Walk 18
Vendégház; Panzió; Szálló/Hotel/Fogadó
These are lumped together because prices and facilities often overlap. The standard of guesthouses and hotels in rural areas is usually excellent and, although more expensive than budget accommodation, are good value for money. Prices quoted are for the room, and solo travellers will have to pay the full price for occupying a double room. A vendégház, or guesthouse, can be as expensive as a hotel or as cheap as a turistaház. It is a rare practice and not officially condoned, but beware of establishments with dual-pricing systems penalising foreigners. Guesthouses often have access to a kitchen and dining room for self-catering, although home-cooked meals are also available at extra cost.
A panzió is a small- to medium-sized hotel offering bed and breakfast and may also have a restaurant and bar for non-residents. A hotel or szálloda is the most expensive option. A selection of panziós and hotels are marked on Hungarian walking maps. A fogadó is Hungarian for inn and is not an indication of price. The local tourist office will provide a list or brochure of accommodation for their area, although a small number of guesthouses and hotels is listed in the MTSZ publication Természetbarát Szálláshelyek mentioned above.
Getting Around Hungary
Driving
Hungary is not a large country and many walking routes are about an hour’s drive from Budapest. Driving is a comfortable way to get to the walk-in points and there are circular walks in the guide ideal for car users. With few exceptions there is always somewhere to park free in a village. Car hire is available at the airport but one of the many travel companies in Budapest can arrange it for you. Road surfaces on motorways and major roads are generally of a high standard but deteriorate as you enter Budapest. Many village streets and back roads are unsurfaced.
The downside of driving on Hungary’s smart new motorways is the toll (autópályadíj) which is payable on the Ml and the M3. Purchase a sticker (matrica) at a toll office at the entrance to the motorway or the nearest petrol station. Look for the sign: Autópálya matrica kapható. Ask Van egy árlista angolul? for the English-language leaflet explaining the system and latest charges. Stickers are also sold at many post offices or offices of the Magyar Autóklub (Hungarian Automobile Association). When buying a sticker you will be asked to fill in a registration form. Display the sticker prominently on the windscreen as it will be scanned by special cameras along the highway. There is a heavy fine for not paying. If travelling frequently it is worth buying a nine-day (heti) or monthly (havi) ticket.
Points worth mentioning about driving around Hungary: thirdparty insurance is compulsory; driver and passenger(s) including passengers in the back seats must wear seat belts; children under the age of 12 may not travel in the front and must use a child seat; and outside built-up areas dimmed headlights are compulsory during daylight hours. The speed limit is 50km/h (30mph) in built-up areas; 90km/h (55mph) on other roads; and 130km/h (80mph) on the motorway/highway. The police regularly set speed traps and also carry out spot-checks so always have all your documents, including passport and motorway toll registration form, with you while driving. A hazard to look out for on some main roads and rural areas is poorly visible horse-drawn carts.
Parking space is becoming increasingly limited in Budapest and traffic wardens patrol the streets to catch people whose parking meter ticket has expired. In the worst cases the local authority tows away offending cars. If you are involved in a car accident while in Hungary report it to the police, as damaged vehicles attempting to leave the country without a certificate will be detained. Drinking even the smallest amount of alcohol while driving is an offence.
Public Transport
All the walking research in this guide has tested the feasibility of using public transport to get on and off the walking routes. During the 1950s many waymarked routes were set up to start and finish at a train station or bus stop, reflecting the emphasis on cheap holidays as well as the lower levels of car ownership. Nowadays it is still possible to come out of the forest to a lonely stretch of road and find a bus stop with frequent services, but do not depend on it. Using public transport is also a good way of getting to know a country and it is a safe way to travel in Hungary. The guide attempts to ensure that a route does not leave a walker stranded and that there is ample opportunity to catch a bus or train back to a town or, failing that, there is likely to be accommodation nearby. Whether travelling by bus or train, avoid Friday afternoons. The introduction to each region in the guide provides details about local public transport, but the following is a general introduction to bus and train travel in Hungary.
Rail
The Hungarian State Railway (MÁV) has a large network radiating out from Budapest to many walk-in points. Get to the ticket halls of Budapest’s mainline stations well in advance of departure to avoid long queues. A more relaxed method is to buy tickets in advance at MÁV’s air-conditioned central booking office (see Appendix 4). Ask for an English-speaking member of staff. Ticket-sellers and inspectors are unlikely to speak fluent English but are usually patient when dealing with phrasebook Hungarian. There are no complicated saver tickets and cheap returns; price is calculated by the kilometre. For student concessions travellers must hold a European rail pass bought in their country of origin.
Ordinary trains are quite efficient but expect to stand in the corridor on many journeys. First class is an alternative, but sometimes the standard is very poor and not worth the extra cost. Services are classed according to their speed and how often they stop: gyors (fast – stops at main stations only); sebes (stops at smaller towns); and személy (stops at every halt). Air-conditioned Inter City trains (‘IC’ on timetables) are fast and comfortable but you must reserve the seat and pay a booking fee. Specify if you do not want to sit in the smoking coach: nem dohányzó. To find your seat on an Inter City train examine the ticket for the coach (kocsi) and seat (hely) numbers. With a few exceptions, such as lines with unmanned stations, you will be fined for boarding a train without a ticket. Small red trains (kispiros) operating from provincial railway stations get closer to some walking routes. Some hills can be accessed using the little forest trains running from Easter to mid-October.
Cave house museum, Szomolya, Bükk, Walk 11
Summary of railway stations in Budapest and the walking areas they serve:
Budapest Keleti Pályaudvar (Eastern Railway Station): Aggtelek, Bükk, Mátra, Zemplén
Budapest Nyugati Pályaudvar (Western Railway Station): Börzsöny, Pilis
Budapest Déli Pályaudvar (Southern Railway Station): Bakony, Balaton, Mecsek, Vértes.
Bus
Most long-distance buses are comfortable, efficient and air-conditioned, and a pleasant way to get to the hills, but many villages can only be reached by changing for a local bus at smaller towns and provincial capitals. Villages that are popular tourist destinations can be reached by direct bus, but there are likely to be only a couple of services a day.
Rural timetables are often geared to commuting workers, therefore morning buses depart at an unearthly hour. To avoid becoming stranded plan your journey carefully. Pre-booking for long-distance services is possible at city bus stations and will allow you to get on the bus before everybody else and secure a seat; but make sure you are there well before departure. For rural buses, have plenty of small change ready. Country bus drivers do not speak English, but the digital display will show the price of the ticket; or, on the older buses, have a look at the ticket itself. It is rare but inspectors can flag down the bus in the middle of nowhere so do not overstay your journey.
Summary of bus stations in Budapest and the walking areas they serve:
Budapest Népstadion: Aggtelek, Bükk, Mátra, Zemplén
Budapest Árpád híd: Börzsöny, Pilis
Budapest Népliget: Bakony, Balaton, Mecsek, Vértes.
Timetables
National railway and bus timetables (menetrend) are available at rail and bus stations, and regional versions can be bought at provincial offices. Tourinform offices have a set of timetables and staff will be glad to help with travel plans. For both train and bus services the summer timetable begins in early June and the winter timetable takes over from September. All times are in the 24-hour clock. If planning your trip from outside Hungary check the railway and bus company websites (see Appendix 4). The MÁV website has up-to-date timetables and prices in English, but the VOLÁN equivalent is in Hungarian, although it does provide an on-line Hungarian–English dictionary.
Every main railway station has a map of the national network and a timetable for every line, but a few rural railway halts do not have a booking office or timetable, so take a note of the return services before setting off. The national bus network is decentralised and its timetables show only the regional destinations and arrivals.
Hungary’s timetables are afflicted by a plague of footnotes. Understanding this cluster of symbols and letters could be crucial if you are not to discover that the last bus you thought you could catch does not run on weekdays. Appendix 2 has a few examples. As a general guide no symbols next to a departure time means the service is daily and a crossed hammer symbol or the letter M means that the service runs only on working days.
Health
General
At the time of writing emergency and out-patient treatment are available free to citizens of the European Union, but follow-up care must be paid for or pursued back home. It is worth checking the latest position with the Hungarian embassy before departure. There is no reciprocal health agreement for citizens of the USA, Canada, Australia, South Africa and New Zealand. Whatever your status travel insurance is recommended. Doctors usually speak English, although receptionists and nurses do not. Take a simple first aid kit comprising plasters, bandage, safety pin and anti-histamine for insect bites although all these items are available in Hungarian drug stores. In Hungary only pharmacies (gyógyszertár or patika) are authorised to supply medicines taken internally, and antibiotics require a doctor’s prescription. Pharmacies will accept foreign prescriptions if you require resupply during the holiday. Medicines for personal use up to a certain value can be brought into Hungary. Check with the embassy for the latest regulations.
Ticks
Walking in Hungary is relatively safe, but as with most of Central Europe its forests and meadows are a haven for ticks (kullancs), which attach themselves to the undergrowth waiting for a host to pass by. The bite is painless, but an attached tick must be removed promptly and with care so as not to increase the risk of infection. Ticks are active in Hungary from April until the first frost, which can be as late as November, but the main season is May and June. The risk of contracting disease is low for the walker who follows well-beaten trails, uses a DEET insect repellent, and does not wild camp, but if spending a long time in the hills it may be worthwhile getting vaccinated against encephalitis. Lyme disease can be treated with antibiotics if caught at an early stage, although vaccination is available in the USA.
Dogs
In rural Hungary dogs are not pets but inexpensive alarms, and most houses have a sign on the gate: Harapós a kutya! or Vigyázz! A kutya harap! (Beware of the Dog). Every garden dog feels it is its duty to bark, howl and snarl at any stranger, and once the first dog starts a chain reaction sets in until the whole village is in commotion. Villagers seem to be impervious to the racket but it is unsettling for the first-time walker in Central Europe. Fortunately the brutes are usually safely locked behind garden gates and it is rare to see feral dogs wandering around the countryside. If confronted by an overzealous village defender that has slipped its chain a threatening swipe with a stick or well-aimed stone should be enough to send it on its way.
The risk of rabies (veszettség) in Hungary is very low and health authorities take the control of the disease very seriously. Rabies posters of a fox’s head pinned to trees in some walking areas look alarming, but they are merely informing walkers that bait with a serum has been laid in the area as part of a humane programme to vaccinate foxes against the disease. It is unusual to catch rabies in Hungary as owners are legally obliged to vaccinate their dogs regularly. If you are bitten try to identify the dog’s owner and insist on the vaccination certificate (Oltási papírok) and take it with you to the hospital or nearest surgery. The doctor will administer a tetanus injection whatever the dog’s vaccination history, but if you cannot produce a certificate, or the dog was feral, you will be automatically treated for rabies. There is also a follow-up investigation by the local health authority. Treatment for dog bites is considered an emergency and free if your country has a reciprocal health care agreement, but avoid the risk of a bite and the subsequent bureaucracy: steer clear of dogs however friendly they look.
Snakes
The common viper Vipera berus can be found in many hill areas, especially in the Zemplén, but it is unusual to see one, let alone get close enough to be bitten, and fatal bites are rare. The anti-venom serum is available at rural pharmacies. If the pharmacy is closed ring the bell for the pharmacist, who usually lives on the premises.
Drinking Water
Karst formation has diverted surface water underground in many upland areas and there are few clear streams. It is not advisable to drink stream water, and not all waterborne diseases can be eliminated using the ordinary purification tablets available in camping shops. In summer carry at least two litres of water per person and fill up whenever possible from the blue pumps found on village streets. Alternatively, the local bar will gladly refill your water bottle from their tap, or if you see a villager working in the garden ask: Kérhetek egy kis vizet? (May I have a little water?)
If the route does not pass through villages there are many springs (forrás or kút) marked on walking maps. They range from boggy hollows to elaborate structures built by the local walking club and named after some local worthy or historical figure. Springs and wells above and away from settlements and hunting lodges are likely to be clean, although there are concerns about the quality of water in parts of the Mecsek. Springs or pumps designated undrinkable are marked: nem ivóvíz.
Refreshment Abuse
Some walks pass through villages where cheap bars and excellent restaurants offer food and drink at very reasonable prices. Stopping for refreshments is a pleasant way to break up a walk and Appendix 2 lists a few drinks and how to order them in Hungarian. If you decide to take the opportunity for an extended lunch be aware that excess alcohol is dangerous on a long hot walk. You might also find yourself regretting it as you stumble through the dark to finish the route.
Waymarking
Hungary’s hundreds of trails are marked out by a system of rectangular coloured waymarks comprising two white bands with a central stripe of red, blue, green or yellow. Auxiliary routes use other symbols: a cross connects two routes; a square leads to a settlement or accommodation such as a hostel; a triangle indicates the route to a summit or viewpoint; an L is the way to a historic ruin such as a fortress; a coloured spot leads to a spring or well; a semicircle to a circular route; and an omega symbol leads to a cave. In ski resorts coloured saltires (stiles with a cross-piece) mark the ski routes. Waymarks are usually painted on trees, but on tree-less heath and karst rocks do the job, and in villages telegraph poles, fence posts, garden walls or water pumps are employed. A few routes have wooden signs giving directions as well as estimated walking times in hours (ó) and minutes (p).
Volunteers clearing the trail, Börzsöny, Walk 4
Hungary’s first waymarked routes were set up in the second half of the nineteenth century by volunteers, but it was during the Communist period that state-sponsored organisations took an interest in their maintenance. During the 1950s volunteers from the trade unions were deployed around the countryside to repaint the old waymarks and create new routes. In those days the work was paid; transport, brushes and paint were provided free. Nowadays the upkeep of waymarks and monitoring of the routes depends on the availability of walking club members prepared to spend their spare time and money. As a result the coverage varies and many rarely used trails are overgrown and waymarks missing. Sections of the waymarked system follow main roads for a few kilometres. This was not a problem in the 1950s, but the increase in car ownership in recent years has made some road-verge walking unpleasant; Hungarian drivers seem reluctant to give a comfortable distance between themselves and pedestrians. To get the best of an area this guide directs the walker along the most suitable waymarked route and not necessarily the traditional routes prescribed by Hungarian walking guides written in the 1950s.
Maps
The theory is that if you keep to one waymark colour you need only continue to the end of the route. In practice waymarks tend to be conspicuous when the track is obvious and absent at complicated junctions. Waymarking is improving, but many were painted a long time ago and are obscured by vegetation, weathered, or the trees they were on have been felled. Old green waymarks tend to turn blue with age and vice versa. Therefore the ability to read a map is important and also adds to the enjoyment of walking. The Hungarian company Cartographia publishes a series of excellent walking maps (turistatérkép) in 1:40 000 and other scales. Official walking routes are denoted on the maps as red lines and the different route colours are distinguished by a letter: K (kék=blue), P (piros=red), S (sárga=yellow) and Z (zöld= green). A selection of hotels, hostels, campsites, country restaurants, snack bars and even petrol stations are also marked on the maps. Understanding map references is useful for one or two walks in the guide, and an ability to use a compass is helpful at complicated forest trail junctions where visibility is restricted but not essential.
In Hungary Cartographia’s maps can be bought in most book shops in cities and towns, but the main stockist is their shop in Budapest (see Appendix 4). Apart from the most tourist-aware settlements small village shops do not usually stock walking maps, but try the post office, any large hotels in the area or the local museum. The relevant map name and number for a specific region is at the beginning of each route description.
Cartographia’s maps are fairly accurate and updated regularly, but be aware that even the most recent issue cannot keep up with all changes caused by privatisation. The following points are worth noting.
With the exception of the Balaton map only a selection of the more common symbols are explained in Hungarian map keys. Refer to the glossary in Appendix 3 for a translation of the symbols and common topographical terms.
The letter H within a square is a hotel and not a hospital. A hospital or doctor’s surgery is a cross within a circle.
Hungarian maps are fragile and will soon fall apart. Map cases are fine but expensive, add bulk and weight, and are not indestructible. A strong clear plastic bag is adequate protection from rain or perspiring fingers and is inexpensive to replace.
A common error is to assume that the red lines on the map (the official waymarked routes) will be very obvious on the ground. Unlike the faint dotted lines on the map denoting tracks, the red lines tend to stand out, but they might be less obvious on the ground.
In a few examples the superimposition of the red lines on the map can be inaccurate enough to place the waymarked route on the wrong side of a stream or valley. It is not a common problem but the knack to not getting lost in the forest is to balance waymark awareness with good map reading.
Military maps (katonai térkép) in the standard 1:50 000 and 1:25 000 scales are available in a few specialist shops in Budapest. There is really no need to buy these more expensive maps as the walks in this guide are covered by the Cartographia series, which is sufficiently accurate for following waymarked trails.
Forestry, Hunting, National Parks, Privatisation and Access
Forestry
About 15 per cent of Hungary is covered in woodland, most of which is in the hill country. The state planted a third of today’s forest in the 1940s, although many clear-cut areas have since regenerated naturally. The state continues to manage over half of the forests, but the little forest trains no longer haul tonnes of timber down from the hills. Since the 1980s there has been more selective felling and an increasing emphasis on conservation. Forty per cent of forest is now in private hands or belongs to those agricultural co-operatives that survived the changes after 1989. Forestry operations during the week are a fact of life and a route may be closed for safety reasons. There is usually an alternative route to get around the obstacle.
Hunting
As you wander along the trails you will see many hunting hides that resemble sinister prison camp watchtowers. Detailed maps of game reserves drawn up centuries ago are evidence of Hungary’s long relationship with hunting, and in the fifteenth century King Matthias stocked his reserves with lions. Game management declined during the turbulent Habsburg–Ottoman wars. As late as the 1940s, Miklós Horthy, the Regent of Hungary, went as far as evicting tenants in order to turn his estate into a bear reserve. Despite the egalitarian ideology of the Communist era, hunting continued to have overtones of privilege and high-ranking party members met in the Zemplén for hunting weekends. Nowadays, foreigners pay good money to shoot game in Hungary. The season for most game is between 1 October and 31 January, but walkers who keep to waymarked trails and stay out of the woods between dusk and dawn are unlikely to encounter hunters. Look for the following type of notice: Figyelem! Belépni 16-09 között életveszélyes és tilos! This warns people to stay away from an area between 4pm and 9am.
View from Hârom-kő, Bükk, Walk 9
National Parks and Protected Areas
Hungary boasts many national parks and they provide a refuge for the nation’s rarest flora and fauna. The territory of a national park or other specially protected area is delimited on walking maps using red dots. On the ground a sign with an egret symbol marks the entrance to a national park, although some regions have their own symbol: the fire salamander in the Aggtelek; and the carline thistle in the Bükk. Look for the letters NP (Nemzeti Park – National Park); TVK (Tájvédelmi Körzet – Landscape Protection Area); and TVT (TermészetvédelmiTerület – Nature Conservation Area). Many walks in this guide pass through national park land and other conservation zones, so keep to the waymarked paths and access will not be a problem. Red hatching on a walking map or the words Nem látogatható! (No visitors!) denote highly restricted areas where rare birds are nesting. Do not be tempted to enter these zones hoping to see rare species as the restriction might be for another reason such as hidden mine shafts dating back to the eighteenth century. Note that all caves in Hungary are protected.
Follow the Hungarian countryside code: stay on the waymarked paths; do not light fires; keep dogs on a leash; do not play radios, pick flowers or leave litter; and camp only in designated areas. If you are taking a very large group into a national park ask the relevant authority for permission.
Access
During the Communist period egalitarianism was the ideology if not always the practice, but there was at least an emphasis on access to the countryside for all. In reality, however, international frontiers or areas near military installations were out of bounds. Agreements between the countries of the Warsaw Pact to control the movement of dissidents obliged the Hungarians to patrol the border with fellow socialist Czechoslovakia, and anyone who strayed too close to the frontier was escorted away at gunpoint, or worse. Today the problem for walking access is privatisation. Although Hungarian law obliges private landowners to honour waymarked routes set up before privatisation there have been problems such as landowners building fences without consultation. The main pressure group dealing with walkers’ access issues, the Union of the Hungarian Friends of Nature (MTSZ), was involved in government negotiations with private forest owners, but is powerless in the face of failed negotiations with other landowners.
With a few exceptions the walks described in the guide follow the official waymarked trails to ensure that there are no access problems or disputes with landowners. Apart from the restricted areas mentioned above it is permissible to explore the many unmarked tracks through state forest land and national parks. Hungarian walkers tend to follow waymarks, so this is a good way of seeing the more secretive wildlife such as the moufflon or eagle owl. Respect boundaries whether in the public or private domain: do not climb fences or gates unless there is a ladder provided and it is on a waymarked route. Appendix 2 lists a few warning and no entry signs the walker is likely to encounter. As a general rule stay out of an area with signs saying Tilos! or Figyelem!
Village Facilities
The practical information about accommodation and local public transport should cover the traveller’s needs, but as much of the walking passes through villages it is worth mentioning a few points. A village with a tiny population can be spread along a very long main street – more than a mild inconvenience if you have walked a long way on a hot day. Facilities are often not well centralised, and it can be a long trek to find accommodation, a shop or a bar which is situated, from the exhausted walker’s point of view, at the wrong end of the village. A few tourist-friendly villages have information boards in English and German but they are often poorly designed, badly translated or have faded lettering. With few exceptions village shops tend to close by midday Saturday and do not open again until Monday, although shops in villages geared to tourists open later and on Sundays. Bread runs out early, and goodquality fruit and vegetables are difficult to find because most villagers grow their own. Look out for tables in front of houses laden with garden produce. There is an honesty box for the payment, although it is not often clear how much the householders, who are rarely around, want for a green pepper.
Every village has one or two bars called a kocsma, italbolt, söröző or eszpresszó, which is usually a very basic affair, full of men, and often does not have a women’s toilet, but despite this they are not hostile places for women. When entering a bar it is proper to greet the occupants with the polite address. If you are a man do not be surprised if locals coming into the bar shake everyone’s hand including yours before going up to order a drink. Some villages have a restaurant geared to the tourist trade offering excellent dishes made from locally caught game. Menus often have English and German translations.
Camera film is rarely available in the countryside, but try the post office, where postcards and maps are also on sale. For walking and camping gear Budapest and Miskolc have several shops which stock a variety of camping stove gas canisters and insect repellent (see Appendix 4).
Most villages run an annual fair (búcsú) or folk festival (fsalunapok) which celebrates the wine harvest or the end of winter. The festival may involve a church procession, outdoor concerts, marching bands, and women in regional costume. There are also less traditional music festivals and art days set in pretty regions such as the Káli-medence in the Balaton Uplands or the Zemplén. Check with the local branch of Tourinform for details of any festivals in the area. Many villages have a tiny museum of local life and traditions, or tájház. Unfortunately the museum is often locked, although the curator can be contacted at the address on the fence or in the window. Locals are usually helpful and if they spot a tourist lurking around the museum they will pass the message on to the curator who probably lives in the village. Museums are closed on Mondays.
It is rare to find public conveniences in villages, and the toilet for the bar is probably a very primitive affair such as a shed around the back. Things are set to improve, and cafés often have very good facilities. Toilets in the rail and bus stations of small towns are often in a poor condition and have no toilet paper unless there is an attendant to whom you pay a few forints. Look for the universal WC sign or Mosdó, and if there is no male or female symbol on the WC door Férfi is man and Női woman.
Monkshood on Csóványos, Börzsöny, Walk 4
Flora, Fungi and Fauna
The actions of thermal springs and karst drainage have created today’s landscape of deep wooded valleys, montane beech forest, damp gullies, caves, sink-holes, sun-bleached limestone outcrops, upland meadows and rolling downland, providing habitats for a variety of rare and endangered plants. Hungary’s vegetation zones range from Carpathian in the northern hills to Mediterranean in the south, but there are also pockets of sub-alpine, Illyrian and Boreal species which are relicts from the Ice Age. The basalt crags in the Balaton region provide a micro-climate for the lip fern, a survivor of warmer times, and the open karst and volcanic outcrops harbour several species of stonecrop and saxifrage. In the sinkholes of the Bükk-fennsík plateau temperatures have been recorded well below freezing on a summer night, creating a unique habitat for the aconite, gentian, carline thistle and Austrian dragonshead. Hungary’s position in east-central Europe and touching on the Balkan peninsula encourages forest to grow at high altitudes. Beech, hornbeam and oak are the commonest species, although there are many varieties of fruit trees and bushes specific to Hungary.
There are almost 500 types of mushroom in Hungary, and woodland species of the boletus, russula and inocybe groups are commonly found. In the early nineteenth century the German settlers in the Bakony collected bracket fungus for tinder to light pipes and make hats. Today mushroom-foraging continues to play a small part in village economies.
The relatively undisturbed forests are a haven for wild game such as roe deer, red deer and, less commonly, the moufflon, introduced from Corsica in the 1920s. The wild boar is largely nocturnal, and the walker is more likely to see the upturned turf of its foraging than the animal itself. Red squirrel, pine marten, badger and fox are also present, but the wildcat, which prefers old beech forest, is very shy. Hungary’s hundreds of caves and crevices have attracted speleologists and archaeologists from all over the world, but also provide a good habitat for many species of bat, including the Mediterranean Horseshoe Bat. Lynx and wolf were once extinct, but thanks to a hunting ban since the 1970s have been making a cautious comeback in the Aggtelek and Zemplén. The brown bear is a very rare visitor from Slovakia.
Birdwatchers coming to Hungary tend to concentrate on Hungary’s wetlands and the Great Plain, but the highlands also offer plenty of interest. It is worth taking a pair of 8x40 binoculars to sort out the various species of raptor wheeling over forest meadows. Rare but on the increase, the Saker falcon can be seen on the high Bükk plateau, and the range of the imperial eagle is spreading thanks to conservation efforts. Several species of owl seem to have survived the days when superstitious villagers killed them, and the remoter parts of the northern forests provide a habitat for the eagle owl. North-east Hungary is also at the western limit of the ural owl. There are many species of woodpecker, including the black woodpecker with its unmistakable plaintive call. The rare hazelhen, a woodland-loving member of the grouse family, is also to be found in the north. Orchards, smallholdings, vineyards and downs provide breeding sites for summer visitors such as the golden oriole, wryneck, hoopoe and many species of warbler. Thorny scrub on heaths and farmland provides a grisly larder for shrikes, and a closer look at sandbanks in open country and farmland will reveal colonies of holenesting bee-eaters. Stony hillsides are the haunt of rock buntings, stonechats and ravens. Overgrown damp meadows with scattered bushes are the haunt of the shy corncrake. White storks nest on village chimney pots and pylons in a few villages in the hills, but the black stork also breeds in small numbers in the north.
Salamander, Oltâr-patak, Börzsöny, Walk 4
The hills have a variety of habitats suited to reptiles and amphibians. The lidless skink and sand lizard favour the sun-warmed rocks along the trails, and frogs breed precariously in shallow forest pools and flooded ruts of tracks. The spectacularly marked fire salamander can be spotted in the leaf litter along cool wooded stream banks. Despite the depredations of snakeskin hunters over the years, the common viper and other species continue to thrive.
Upland meadows are notable for many species of butterfly such as the beautiful swallowtail. The 25cm carpathian blue slug inhabits the Zemplén, and the black snail, an Ice Age relict, can be found along the old mill streams of the Bükkalja. In summer expect to see many species of longhorn beetle and the rather odd spectacle of stag beetles in flight.
History
Hungary’s highlands are peripheral to Hungarian life today, but they were once the scene of competing empires, faiths and ideologies, and have played a large part in the struggles for national liberation. Settlement in the hills began long before recorded time, and excavations of Hungary’s many caves have provided evidence that the highlands were inhabited about half a million years ago. The region has been notable as a crossing point for the great migrations, and the first important groups were the Bronze Age Illyrians and Thracians, who migrated north from the Balkans into the Carpathian Basin. They built hill forts to defend themselves from another incomer, the northern Celts, who eventually dominated the region. By AD 100 the Romans had defeated the Celts and created the province of Pannonia in the lands west of the Danube. To defend this eastern frontier of the Empire the Romans built a line of fortifications (limes) stretching from the Mecsek to the Danube Bend and deployed Syrian light cavalry against the Sarmatians and Germans.
By the end of the fourth century AD the elite of Rome had retreated, leaving a partly urbanised population practising viticulture and Christianity. Germanic tribes swept south to exploit the power vacuum, but in turn were defeated by Attila the Hun, who harried settlements as far west as the Rhine. After the Huns came Teutonic Longobards, proto-Slavs and Turkic- Bulgars, but they were held in check by another nomadic people from the East, the Avars, who for 250 years ruled over a multi-ethnic empire anticipating the shape of modern-day Hungary.
In the ninth century the Carpathian Basin was divided between the Moravian and East Frankish empires. Large areas of the disputed marches were sparsely populated, and in the year 896 there was little resistance when the Magyar chieftan Árpád led the ancestors of the Hungarians into the Carpathian Basin. In 906 they destroyed the Moravian Empire and in 907, after defeating Gemanic tribes, occupied Pannonia. In the manner of the Huns before them the Magyars used the region as a base to raid for booty and slaves, and their forays, as far afield as France and Spain, prompted the western prayer: From the arrows of the Hungarians, save us Lord.
The turning point for Hungarian history was the year 955 at the Battle of Augsburg, when Emperor Otto I defeated the Magyar light cavalry forcing the fledgling Hungarian state to align itself with Western Europe. In 972, Géza, great-grandson of Árpád, converted to Christianity, and in 1001 István was crowned with papal approval and laid the foundations of the Hungarian state.
In 1241 the Mongols swept through Hungary and defeated the Hungarian army at the Battle of Muhi. King Béla IV and the remnants of his shattered army retreated through the hills of the Bükk and sought refuge on the Dalmatian coast. There was famine and epidemic, but on his return Béla ordered the building of stone castles to replace the hilltop stockades. The Mongols did not return, but during the fifteenth century the castles served as strongholds for Hussite rebels.
It was King Matthias who drove the Hussites out of the northern hills. The rule of this clever king is considered to be Hungary’s Golden Age, but he was also an expansionist, and with the help of a mercenary army ruled an enlarged kingdom stretching, for a while at least, from the Mediterranean to the Baltic. After his death, Hungary was weakened by a succession crisis and a failed peasant uprising and fell easily to Suleiman the Magnificent at the Battle of Mohács in 1526. For 150 years Hungary was divided between the Austrian and Ottoman empires, and during intermittent periods of warfare the hilltop strongholds frequently changed hands. The defeat of the Ottomans at the end of the seventeenth century was followed by Hungarian uprisings against the Habsburg occupation, and for a while the rebels held much of the country and dominated the northern hills. After their defeat the lands of the rebellious nobles were confiscated. German and Slovak Catholics and other ethnic groups were settled in the hills to manage the forests, run the glass foundries and also stem the advance of the Reformation. Those hilltop castles still standing lost strategic importance, and for a while the highlands no longer played a large part in Hungary’s history.
After World War I the price of fighting and losing on the Austrian side was the loss of two-thirds of Hungary’s lands. Important industry was lost and three million Hungarians ended up in foreign territory. During World War II Hungary joined the Axis powers, and as a reward received some of the territory it had lost, but once again a dangerous combination of inept diplomacy, internal weakness and unfortunate geography transformed Hungary and its hills into a battleground for foreign armies. Recalling the Habsburg–Ottoman wars the Zemplén, Bükk, Vértes, Bakony and Pilis became battle fronts.
Walking on Nagy-Mána, Börzsöny, Walk 5
After the war the Hungarian Socialist Workers Party eased itself into power and Hungary became a one-party state and ally of the Soviet Union. At the same time the ethnic composition of the hill villages was radically altered as large numbers of the original German and Slovak settlers were forcibly resettled and smallholders came under pressure to give up their land and join the agricultural co-operatives or work in the cities. The drama of the 1956 Revolution, when Hungarians rebelled against the Communist government and its Soviet backers, was largely an urban affair, but the conflict in Pécs spread into the Mecsek hills. Show trials, detentions, executions and mass emigration followed.
The death of Stalin and the consolidation of the post-1956 Communist state gave the new regime under János Kádár freedom for manoeuvre. Living standards improved, and from 1968 there was a good deal of political and economic liberalisation with experiments in privatisation. This softer brand of state socialism was jokingly referred to as ‘goulash communism’. In the 1980s the Soviet Empire unravelled, and Hungary played a large part in the opening up of the border between East and West. Hungary’s transition from a one-party state to a mixed-economy democracy was relatively smooth and peaceful, although there has been a social cost for hill villagers who had depended on agricultural co-operatives or mining for their livelihood.
Village Life
Without playing down the bitterness felt by better-off smallholders who were forced to collectivise, agricultural co-operatives were often very successful enterprises with profitable spin-off activities. Villagers were guaranteed work in the co-operatives or in the nearby factories and mines. After the petty restrictions of the 1950s were lifted many householders had the opportunity to grow their own produce and rear livestock with fodder provided free by the co-operative. There were other positive aspects such as weekly voluntary work commitment (társadalmi munka) involving community projects. Village children were also deployed to collect litter and clear streams.
The changes after 1989 saw many co-operatives disband and villagers gain more land to work as private holdings, but today unemployment is high in hill regions such as the Bükk, Zemplén and Mecsek. The pull of vibrant and cosmopolitan Budapest has exacerbated the problem of rural depopulation started during the Communist period. Impossibly neat peasant houses, manicured lawns and no barking dogs is usually a sign, however charming at first glance, that you are passing through a village where most inhabitants have died out and the cottages are now holiday homes.
In Budapest streets and squares have been renamed and statues removed in an attempt to erase the memory of the Communist era, but many village communities have neither the resources nor the inclination to indulge in symbolic acts. As a result many of the old street names continue to exist: Béke utca (Peace Street); Felszabadulás utca (Liberation Street); Vörös Hadsereg utca (Red Army Street); not to mention Lenin utca.
A History of Hungary’s Walking Movements
It is a mistake to view the development of recreational walking in Hungary as a harmless pastime detached from history. The growth of walking clubs followed the same pattern as the rest of Europe, members of the professional classes, who had more leisure time, taking the lead. Hungary’s first club, Magyarországi Kárpát Egyesület (MKE), Hungarian Carpathian Association, was founded in 1873 and it played a major role in the exploration of the Tatras. During the 1880s its Budapest section decided to explore the Pilis and in 1891 seceded from the MKE and set up the Magyar Turista Egyesület (MTE), Hungarian Association of Walkers. During its first two years its members had waymarked 240km (148 miles) of trails, built refuges, cleared wells and springs, and founded a magazine, Turisták Lapja. The first of the workingclass clubs, the Munkás Testedzők Turista Egyesülete (MTTE), Hungarian Workers’ Sport Walkers Association, was set up in 1908. A group of printers created the Természetbarátok Turista Egyesülete (TTE), Association of the Friends of Nature, in 1910, and another important working-class club, the Magyar Turista Szövetsége (MTSZ), Union of Hungarian Walkers, was founded in 1913. Over the next 20 years there were other clubs, adding to the confusion of acronyms. Their aim was to promote class-consciousness, healthy living and temperance, and they maintained links with the Austrian Natur Freund clubs and the wider social democratic movement. Inevitably the political affiliations of many walking clubs led to splits and mergers. After much bitter infighting the MKE, MTE and TTE merged under the MTSZ. At the Treaty of Trianon after World War I, Hungary lost the Tatras to Czechoslovakia, but as if to compensate the walking movement in Hungary expanded. Ideology continued to play a part and many clubs were aligned with rightist or leftist causes.
The growth of independent walking movements ceased in 1944 when the Germans deposed the Regent, Miklós Horthy, and handed power to the Hungarian Fascist party, the Arrow Cross. After the war the Communist regime disbanded all the pre-war walking clubs whether ‘bourgeois’, rightist (some clubs had had members active in the Arrow Cross) or socialist. A new organisation, the Magyar Természetbarát Szövetség (Union of the Hungarian Friends of Nature), was set up on the Soviet model in 1949. To add to the confusion (or perhaps encourage the idea that the new organisation was a continuation of the more politically acceptable pre-Communist Union of Hungarian Walkers with the same acronym), the Friends of Nature organisation was called the MTSZ.
Between the wars about 50 walking hostels had been built by the efforts of members of various walking clubs, but when the Communists gained power they were collectivised. This was a particularly bitter blow to the members of the disbanded working-class clubs who had struggled hard to find the resources to build the hostels. Unfortunately the state tourist agency had no long-term interest in the buildings and many hostels were neglected. In 1974 the state allocated the buildings to catering and tourism enterprises for the purpose of making a profit, but many were allowed to decay until they were unsafe and had to be demolished.
In 1987 the MTSZ became independent of the state and in 1990, a little over a hundred years after its foundation, the MTE was re-formed. Since the political transition of the late 1980s walking has, according to some Hungarians, declined, although masochistic challenge walks modelled on the Czech tradition have become popular. By the end of the twentieth century a new generation not burdened by history or ideology was taking up walking, and walking club membership was rising.
The National Blue Route
In 1938 the MTSZ set up Hungary’s first long-distance walk, the Szent István-túra (Saint Stephen’s Way). The 852km (526 mile) route started at Tapolca in the Balaton region and finished at Tokaj-hegy, the southernmost hill of the Zemplén. Its first chairman was Jenő Cholnoky, the revisionist geographer who bitterly opposed the redrawing of Hungary’s borders at the Treaty of Trianon. After World War II the route fell into disuse, but during the 1950s the Budapest railway workers’ union revived it. At first the route was managed by and for the exclusive use of railway workers. The union produced a guidebook and introduced a badge scheme for walkers who completed the whole distance. In 1961 it was taken over by the Communist MTSZ, whose members founded the ‘Blue Route Movement’, a campaign to lengthen the original Saint Stephen’s Way. This led to the creation of the Országos Kéktúra (National Blue Route), which crossed the length of Hungary starting at Nagy-Milic on the Czechoslovakian border in the east and finishing at Írott-kő on the Austrian border. Considering the sensitivity of these frontiers during the Cold War it was quite an achievement. The MTSZ installed stamping points along the various stages of the route (they can still be seen today) and a certificate was issued to walkers who completed all 1093km (675 miles).
Regéc Castle, Zemplén, Walk 17
In the early 1980s Pál Rockenbauer walked the National Blue Route with a film crew and the outcome was the very popular television documentary One Million Steps Around Hungary. Rockenbauer took the opportunity to highlight the unavailability of basic walking gear and the lack of budget accommodation along the route for walkers. He was also exasperated by signs of rural decline such as vandalism, litter, the depopulation of villages due to the Communist government’s centralisation policies, and insensitive planning by local authorities.
The political changes in 1988 prompted the MTSZ to suggest a commemoration walk for the 950th anniversary of Saint Stephen’s death and the fiftieth anniversary of the Saint Stephen’s Way. The event was approved and the frontier controls relaxed in order for the two groups of walkers to start at different ends and meet at the middle in Dobgókő as their predecessors had done in 1938.
In 1995 the National Blue Route was officially connected to the E3, the pan-European long-distance path linking Spain with Turkey. Unfortunately the link is broken at the Austrian and Slovakian borders, where it is necessary to come off route and use an official border crossing via the main road. A few Hungarians do walk the entire National Blue Route, which also crosses the Great Plain, and have the badge to prove it. Many of the stages linking the hill ranges can be boring or involve lengthy road bashing, but if you are interested, contact the headquarters of the MTSZ (see Appendix 4) or visit the Cartographia map shop to obtain a copy of the official booklet, Országos Kéktúra: Útvonalvázlat és Igazoló Füzet. It has spaces to stamp the stages, but take your own inkpad as the ones at the stamping points dry out. Cartographia also publishes Országos Kéktúra, an illustrated guide to the whole route. The text is in Hungarian, but its 1:40 000 maps are invaluable for their coverage of all the stages.
