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The mostly 12th-century remains of this once remote abbey represent only about one-third of the original abbey buildings. The church originally had a spire taller than that at Salisbury Cathedral but it collapsed early in the 16th century. When Henry VIII closed all the monasteries, a local man – one William Stump – bought the monastery and decided to convert it into the parish church, a move that ensured the survival of this wonderful building.

Malmsbury is said to be the place where the Cotswolds meets the West Country, and its former importance can be judged by the fact that Athelstan (895–939), the first king of a united England, is buried here. The mid-12th-century south porch through which visitors enter today is a splendid piece of Norman work, and there is a superb vaulted roof above the nave.

SECRETS

While you’re there

Don’t miss the wonderful, carved 15th-century

MARKET CROSS in the town of Malmesbury itself.

Secret place to stay

THE OLD BELL, Malmesbury (oldbellhotel.co.uk). Luxury and history combine to make a memorable stay. This hotel claims to be the oldest in England.

A sizeable chunk of Malmesbury Abbey survives.