Читать книгу Whittling in Your Free Time - Tom Hindes - Страница 8
ОглавлениеGETTING STARTED
What Makes a Good Whittling Knife?
One of my favorite things about whittling is that you can do it anywhere. This means the knife you use should be easily transportable. I prefer a folding pocketknife; nothing beats the convenience of safely slipping a folded knife into your pocket. If you would rather use a regular carving knife, just make sure to sheath the blade properly before transporting. Many carvers use cork or a length of silicone rubber tubing for this purpose.
Many manufacturers create folding knives for whittling (or carving) with blades that resemble classic carving knives. These specialty knives can get expensive. They are worth the money if you do a lot of whittling, but you don’t need to buy a specialty knife to whittle.
Many carvers keep a second pocketknife for everyday use in tasks such as opening cardboard boxes, to avoid dulling the sharp pocketknife they use for whittling.
When selecting a knife for whittling, keep the following factors in mind:
Carbon Steel Blade
Many pocketknife blades are made from stainless steel. Stainless steel holds an edge for a long time and doesn’t corrode if you close the knife with a wet blade—both great qualities for pocketknives. But because stainless steel dulls slowly, it sharpens slowly as well. Most carving tools are made from high-carbon steel. Knives with high-carbon steel blades are more expensive than knives with stainless steel blades, but they are easier to sharpen.
Many manufacturers are creating high-carbon stainless steel blades, which combine the durability of stainless steel with the added benefits of carbon steel.
Blade Location
Some pocketknives have 10 to 20 blades. These knives are generally less comfortable to use for long periods of time, and the blades you want to carve with are seldom in the center of the handle. If the knife blade is not in the center of the handle, you lose leverage, which reduces your carving power and control. Instead, look for a knife with two or, at most, three blades, which should ensure the blades are conveniently placed.
Blade Shape
Look for a sheepsfoot blade—one where the tip of the knife is closely aligned with the main cutting edge, similar to a utility knife or standard bench knife. Many pocketknife blades have a drop-point shape, which centers the tip of the knife in the middle of the blade. The drop-point shape works well for general cutting purposes, but makes it difficult to carve small details. I prefere a blade that has had the bevel removed and ground flat. You can reshape a blade using sharpening stones and sandpaper, but the process is time-consuming.
A sheepsfoot blade (top) is better suited for whittling than a drop-point blade (bottom).
Locking Blades
A locking blade keeps the sharp knife from accidentally closing on your fingers, which is a good safety feature. However, as long as you are always aware that a knife can close on your fingers, you should be safe, regardless of whether or not your knife features a locking blade.
Choosing the Right Knife for You
Selecting the ideal knife for you is a matter of personal preference. The size of your grip compared with the size of the handle will greatly influence how comfortable the knife is to use over extended periods of time. The ideal knife for your friend may not be well suited for you. Ask other whittlers for their opinions, but then handle and test several knives before making a purchase.
Selecting the Wood
The main requirement in selecting wood for whittling is that the wood must be able to hold detail. To hold detail, wood should have a tight grain free of knots. Several species of wood meet these basic criteria; however, for newer and less experienced whittlers, the wood should also be easy to whittle. For this reason, basswood is preferred in the United States; in Europe, carvers prefer lime wood or linden wood. These varieties of wood are readily available at modest prices. This does not mean that other types of wood cannot be whittled; it just means that, generally, newer whittlers will have more success with basswood. Keep in mind that not all basswood is the same. When whittling harder basswood, spray a mix of 50-50 water and rubbing alcohol onto the wood and let it absorb. This will make the wood more workable.
Preparing Wooden Blanks
The first things to notice about your wooden block are the end grain (on the ends of the board) and the straight grain (running the length of the board). Master wood carver Everett Ellenwood best describes end grain as “looking like the end of a bundle of straws” that run the length of the wood. Always orient the pattern so the weakest part of the carving will take advantage of the strength of the long “bundles.” For example, you want the giraffe’s neck to run the length of the wood grain; orient the grain horizontally and the neck will more likely snap.
The patterns I use for flat-plane whittling are one-dimensional side views of the object to be whittled. You can source these patterns from a few different places—your own sketches, coloring books, and copyright-free illustrations on the Internet. You will probably need to make changes to most illustrations you find. Most animal drawings have curved edges; draw straight lines to give the overall impression of the animal silhouette rather than an exact copy.
Once you settle on a subject and illustration, you can size the pattern. You can use a copier or a computer and printer to reduce or enlarge the pattern to suit your preference. When your pattern is ready, trace it onto the wood with a pencil and cut the shape with a scroll saw, band saw, or coping saw. Now you’re ready to whittle!
Once you’ve traced the shape onto the wood, you can cut out the blank with your saw of choice.