Читать книгу Ford Flathead Engines - Tony Thacker - Страница 10
ОглавлениеENGINE ID, EQUIPMENT AND TOOLS
Flathead Ford V-8s. They’re all the same, correct? Not even close. Certainly they are in the same family and often share the same parts, but they have myriad differences, and it is essential that you do your homework and know exactly what you’re looking for before beginning the search. Thankfully, a huge interest in the engine still exists and a supply is available to meet the demand. In addition, parts, tools, and equipment are available to facilitate a rebuild.
This is like asking, “How long is a piece of string?” You could be restoring a 1949 Shoebox Ford or you could be building a hot rod or even putting a flathead in a motorcycle; it’s been done. You could just be assembling an engine to display in your cave. Whatever you’re trying to achieve, it’s good to know up front to avoid costly mistakes. As experienced hot rod builders know: Have a plan and stick to it, because changing direction midway is always costly.
If you thought flathead blocks were scarce, just look in the backyard of H&H Flatheads, where Mike Herman stores his stock. There, hundreds of blocks provide him with the raw material for rebuilds.
It also pays to do your research before you buy an engine. I remember purchasing my first hot rod project engine (a small-block Ford) over the phone. The seller (a friend) told me it was a fresh 289. Somehow, I paid, and he dumped off a filthy boat anchor that not only was not a nice 289, it wasn’t even a 260. It was an early 221 and not much use to anybody. And now it was in my way, and I had to get rid of it.
What I’m saying is, have a plan. Know your intentions and buy the right engine for the job. It also makes sense to buy a complete, assembled engine rather than a cheap box full of parts or even just a block. It’s far better to pay a little more for an engine that you can hear run than to buy an engine that the seller says is top shelf only to find out it’s bottom rung.
Many resources are available; these days there really is no excuse for buying the wrong engine. You can use books such as this one, and the Internet is loaded with sites and forums that, if you can wade through it all, contain everything and more than you ever want to know about Ford’s flattie.
This flathead V-8-60 motorcycle, available for a time from Honest Charley Speed Shop, shows the versatility of the Ford V-8.
Mud-caked maybe, but likely a rebuildable engine resides under all that dirt.
The Green Book, also known as the Bible, lists thousands of parts and specifications for the early Ford. It’s not essential, but it’s certainly a handy reference, as it provides all the factory technical specifications you need for a rebuild, including bearing tolerances, valve clearances, timing and lift, valvespring lengths, as well as closed or open pressure specs. If you can’t find a Green Book, many reprints of factory service bulletins are available.
The thousands of flathead Ford V-8s to be found include this selection at the Early Ford Store in San Dimas, California, a great source for original early Ford parts. However, you must do your research before you purchase; not all flatheads are the same.
Before you go looking for an engine to rebuild (if that’s your plan), be honest and ask yourself, “Is this something that I can tackle?” Rebuilding an engine is a lot of work; takes up a lot of space, time, and money; and requires special equipment and tools. Do you want to make that investment? And let’s face it: You’re bound to make a mistake or two. More time, more money.
Literally thousands of flathead Ford V-8s are available. The Early Ford Store, for example, in San Dimas, California, is a great source of original early Ford parts.
If you’re not restoring a car with an existing engine that you want to refurbish, you could be swapping a late-model flathead into an earlier Ford or Mercury or you could be building a hot rod that did not come from the factory with a flathead Ford V-8. Let’s assume that your project is sans engine and that you have to find something suitable.
The best option is to purchase a complete running engine that you can see and hear run. It might still need a rebuild, but you will know two things for sure: It runs and it’s complete.
If for some reason that option is not available, at least buy a complete engine with all of its ancillary parts intact. Maybe it’s an engine that you’ve known about for a long time. As a last resort, buy a basket case, but with all the parts and all coming from the same engine.
Your final option, which is okay if you’re going to build a hot rod engine, is to buy a block. But to use my schoolboy Latin: caveat emptor, which means, let the buyer beware. If you can’t see and hear it run, anything could be wrong, from a cracked block to one that has been so overbored as to be beyond repair. Well, I guess nothing is beyond repair, but at what cost?
One alternative is to buy a new old stock (NOS) French block. That gives you a nice fresh base from which to start, and a lot of the machine work that you might not be able to do at home is already done. It’s certainly an option.
The French flathead V-8 resulted from a collaboration between Ford Motor Company and the French company Mathis. Operating as Matford, the company produced the Matford Vedette, powered by a Ford V-8-60. In 1954 Ford merged its French operations with French manufacturer Simca, retaining a 15-percent share until 1958, when it sold even that. Simca continued to build V-8-60-powered cars until 1960, when Chrysler acquired it. Subsequently, production of the Vedette moved to Brazil.
Beginning in the early 1950s, full-size, 239- and 255-ci Ford flatheads were manufactured by the Ford-Simca operation for use in French military vehicles, primarily for a 4 × 4 truck known as the Simca Unic Marmon Bocquet, or Simca Unic for short. It was a tough, versatile platform built in a number of configurations, including troop transporter, fuel tanker, airfield fire truck, and even mobile communications center. It served the French military well for nearly 40 years and was decommissioned in the 1990s.
The longevity of the Unic can be credited to the robust simplicity of its Ford V-8, which the French constantly improved by combining the architecture of the 59AB block with that of the 8BA. The cylinder decks and improved water jacketing from the later 8BA were incorporated with the cast-in-place bellhousing of the earlier Ford, which incorporated provisions for an engine-speed governor and a vehicle hydraulic system. The casting quality of the French block was markedly better than that of the Ford block from which it was derived, a direct result of advances in metallurgy and foundry technology.
Block or Engine?
Unless you are Mike Herman of H&H Flatheads or another professional builder and you have a yard full of engines in various states of build from which to choose, buying just a block or partly dismantled engine is a daunting proposition, especially if you find the engine outside, uncovered, and with a head or two removed. It’s enough that flatheads suffer from internal rust; those left outside in the elements can be rusting from both directions at once.
Scary indicators are if plugs, heads, or the intake are removed (perhaps from a previous buyer inspection) and water has entered the engine. A quick visual check determines how bad the rust is. Note that even the rustiest engines can be rebuilt if the bones are good. That said, a block can look good visually, but further inspection by measuring, Magnafluxing, pressure testing, and even sonic mapping can reveal a block too far gone to bother with. That will be a major disappointment, but you will not be the first or last to purchase a block only to find that it is no good. Think what a serious racer goes through to find a good block.
The ultimate decision as to whether or not to purchase a particular flathead depends upon a careful and meticulous visual inspection, a measurement of the bore, and, most important, a first-class professional Magnaflux (see Chapter 5).
A good little 59A engine with original Edelbrock heads, Evans intake, and three 97s is probably in this old Deuce three-window. In some cases (not this one, however), an absence of plugs can indicate that water has found a home in the bores.
Here’s a good-looking candidate. It’s in an old jalopy, it’s running, and it’s the right 8BA (or in this case an EAB with 24 studs). It has the thermostat housings in the heads and the correct distributor. And it has no obvious signs of damage.
Once the head is removed, wire-brush the deck as best you can and look for cracks. This block appeared good, but it had several broken head studs. Broken studs are common and not a major issue if you take care when drilling the studs and use a good stud extractor and plenty of penetrating fluid.
Use dividers or, preferably, a micrometer to measure the bores. There’s no sign of sleeves, so this might be a good candidate.
A Vernier gauge or a ruler tells you the bore size. Stock for the 8BA is 3.1875 (3) inches. The maximum recommended overbore is 5/16 inch, so there is some meat left here.
First Look
To begin, remove both cylinder heads and wire brush the deck to check for obvious cracks. Also inspect near the pan rail for signs of freeze cracking. The more care you take looking for cracks, the better you’ll be in the long run. If obvious faults frighten you, pass on the purchase.
Bellhousing or No?
If the block/engine looks worth buying, you should probably decide (yes, this early in the game) what transmission you will run, as this will make a difference in the choice of block. For example, the 1949–1953 blocks without the integral bellhousing might be preferable if you intend, for example, to adapt a Chevy Turbo 350 using a Wilcap 8BA adapter or use a Tremec 5-speed. Speedway carries a Tremec kit; however, it does not include the necessary bellhousing. The good news is that a reasonable choice of aftermarket adaptors is available.
Early blocks, such as this 239-ci 1946–1948 59A 24-stud with integral bellhousing, work for some hot rod applications. They have a larger bore than the 1938–1942 models, and various transmission adapters make for good swapping material.
The 1949–1953 blocks, without the integral bellhousing, accommodate a wider variety of transmissions (for example, the Chevy Turbo 350), for which Wilcap has an adapter kit.
If you plan to purchase just a block, some pre-purchase research is necessary, because not all flathead Fords are created equal. Lots of minor changes occurred between 1932 and 1953, and the nuances can be confusing.
Pre-1938 21-stud engines have three head bolts in a line down from the central water neck. However, these engines are becoming old and are less desirable than the post-1938 24-stud engines, if only because more cylinder head options are now available.
This one had me confused until I learned that the aftermarket offered a kit to mount the coil remotely. Speedway still produces a similar coil adapter kit.
The 24-stud, 221-ci Ford engines from 1938 and on have just two head bolts in the center; some say they form an inverted Y. Being newer engines, they are somewhat preferable to those of previous generations. The contemporary Merc engine had 239 cubes courtesy of a slightly larger, 3.1875-inch bore.
In 1942, the coil was finally separated from the distributor, which was mounted through the side of the front cover.
For 1937–1941, the distributor was held on with two bolts, rather than three, and the coil is taller.
The 1932 pumps had high water necks. From 1933 to 1936, they had lower necks (shown).
External Clues
Heads: A quick way to separate a pre-1938, 21-stud engine from a 1938-on 24-stud engine is to look at the middle row of head studs.
Coil and Distributor: The 1932 V-8 had its distributor mounted directly on the front of the camshaft and was identified by its tall, integrated coil that necessitated a long fan shaft. From 1933 to 1936, the tall integral coil was shorter; late in 1936, it used a flattop coil.
Water Pump: Over its life, the flathead, in its various guises for cars, trucks, and so on, had numerous different water pumps; their configurations can be a helpful guide in identification. From 1932 until 1936, the water pump was located at the front of each head, although the 1932 pump had a high water neck.
In 1937, the water pump moved from the head to the front of the block, with the upper radiator hose attached to an outlet at the top center of the head. In 1949, the water neck became a thermostat housing and was bolted onto the front of the head.
Internal Clues
As mentioned in Chapter 1, Henry Ford, who apparently could hardly read a blueprint, dictated that his V-8 have a thermosyphon cooling system, stating, “Thermostats are crummy.” He also demanded a fuel pump atop the engine, where it literally sucked more than it pushed, causing vapor locks. Water vapor was also forced into the pump from the crankcase, causing corrosion and even freezing in cold weather, sometimes stopping the pump. It had no oil filtering system, and the ignition system was inadequate. Adjusting the points involved removing the distributor from the engine and putting it on a test rig, or replacing it. Consequently, the public became lab rats, testing the engine as it underwent constant development to improve reliability and performance.
The 8RT series pumps were used in truck and commercial applications from 1948 to 1952. They all had wide-belt pulleys.
The 8CM series wide-belt pulley was fitted to the 1949 Mercury, while the narrow-belt OCM was fitted to 1950–1951 Mercs.
The 8BA water pumps were fitted in 1949–1953 cars, 1953 Ford trucks, and 1952–1953 Mercurys. Both wide and narrow belt pulleys were used.
If you have a box of rods and need to identify them, here’s a selection. From left to right: 21-stud, 59A, 8BA, and new Scat. If you’re lucky, the rods will be marked, as is the 8BA, but quite often there are no identifying marks.
Because the flathead V-8 underwent so many minor changes, we endeavor here to visually explain the running block changes from the second-generation 1933 engine through the final 1949–1953 version. The 1932 engine is not included because it is rare and now used only in the most precise restorations.
Some of the changes are quite obvious. These include the 1937 relocation of the water pump to the front of the block, the 1938 shift from 21-stud heads to 24-stud heads, and the 1949 introduction of the conventional and more vertical (rather than front-mounted) distributor.
Crank: Identifying cranks is no longer necessary because Scat introduced brand-new cranks. Previously, everybody searched for 4-inch-stroke Mercury cranks. To determine which crank you have, use the “pinky or pencil” test: If your pinky fits, it’s a Merc; if a pencil fits, it’s a Ford.
Rods: The original factory Ford rods were heat-treated, carbon manganese steel forgings and were as good as it gets. If the ones you have are not bent, twisted, or cracked, they are ideal for a street or mild performance rebuild. If you are building a more high-performance or racing engine, I suggest new H-beam chrome-moly high-tensile forged rods from Scat. Scat also offers different crank pin sizes: 2.000 and 2.138 inches, available with either studs or cap screws.
Block Identification
1933-1936½
The 1933–1936½ block was a 21-stud, identified by three head studs on either side of the triangulated water passages. It also had a cast-in bellhousing.
Water pumps on 1933–1936½ blocks were located at the front of each cylinder head. The upper portion of the front of the block was smooth.
The 1932–1936, blocks had poured, white-metal Babbitt main bearings. The conventional insert bearing option was introduced in October 1935. Both the poured (meaning that the white-metal bearing material was literally poured into the rod and cap) and the conventional insert styles were available through 1936. This is a Babbitt block.
1936½
The late 1936 engines are desirable 21-studders, still with the triangulated water passages and integrated bellhousing, but they are really preferable because of the insert main bearings, which are much easier to replace.
The late engines had insert main bearings and retained the integrated bellhousing. They have no perfect external identification; the easiest way to spot the difference is to look for the insert tang in the main bearing cap. Note the freeze plugs in this pan rail.
1937
The one-year-only 1937 engines were 21-studs with triangulated water passages and an integral bellhousing. New for 1937 was the relocation of the water pump from the head to the block.
The engineers at Ford finally overcame Henry Ford’s intransigence and positioned the pumps where they could work in the block rather than the head, pushing rather than sucking.
1938–1940
The change to 24-stud heads came in 1938, indicated by the triangulated water passages, but now there were only two stud holes, not three. This version still has the cast-in bellhousing, but notice the raised deck for the intake.
The 1940 Mercury engine is very similar to the Ford in that it has 24 studs, a cast-in bellhousing, and a raised intake deck. However, it has a slightly larger bore, affording 239 ci compared to 221 ci, and therefore 95 hp compared to the Ford’s 85.
1946–1948
The 1946–1948 59A 24-stud is identified by the round water passages. The raised deck is gone, because it offered no tangible benefit and complicated the manufacturing process.
Most 59As have “59” embossed on the cast-in bellhousing. However, the heads are often (but not always) embossed “59A” or “59AB.”
1949–1953
This is the desirable 8BA. Note that the water passages at the very rear of the block look like elongated tears. On earlier engines, they were small round holes.
The bellhousing for automotive applications was now a bolt-on stamped-steel unit; trucks had a bolt-on cast-iron bellhousing. This block is desirable because it offers many more transmission options.
The water pump on 1949–1953 blocks is different than that on 1946–1948 engines; it has an extra water passage as indicated. The thermostats were now located in the water necks and bolted to the front of the heads.
The 1949–1953 Merc crank (left) has a 5/8-inch oil clean-out hole, whereas the 3¾-inch stroke Ford crank (right) has a 3/8-inch clean-out. Most Canadian cranks have the 3/8-inch clean-out, so it is very confusing.
You can use a traditional hoist to move your flathead, and you can bolt it to a number of locations on the block, such as the intake (shown), the head bolts, or the exhaust manifold. Always be sure that the bolts have good purchase in the threads.
Let’s assume now that you’ve found a fairly good, complete, running engine that needs a rebuild. The first two pieces of equipment you need are an engine hoist and an engine stand. If you don’t already own these, it might be time to reconsider the project. A flathead Ford V-8 weighs 675 pounds. That’s not something you can lift and move easily. The hoist enables you to remove it from the car and into its new home; the stand gives you something to put it on.
An engine stand is often regarded as an essential tool, but Mike prefers to build his engines on a bench, which gives him room to spread out parts and tools on either side.
Mike does not use an engine stand for his rebuilds. He prefers a table with all his tools and parts within easy reach. That said, he has a hefty chain hoist above the table for lifting engines.
At this stage, you should also organize your work space and obtain any necessary special tools. Of course, it’s not essential to be organized, but it sure helps to keep the rebuild on track. Clear some space and use boxes for parts you remove. Don’t trash anything until the rebuild is complete. You never know what you might need as reference as you assemble the engine, and it’s good to have the old parts on hand to see how they look, how they performed, and how they fit.
Another essential tool is a camera, cell phone, or even iPad to record everything, from how the engine looks assembled to how parts fit. Sometimes an image can help you secure restitution for badly performed outside work. If you receive something from a machine shop and it’s not right, you can say, “Here are photos from when I delivered it. Here’s how you returned it. It’s not correct.” Photographic evidence is especially important when you are shipping parts out of town.
Lifting the Engine
Attaching the engine to the hoist can be done with a chain or strap. Mike at H&H prefers a strap attached at the top center manifold bolt, but you can also use a head bolt. Be careful when lifting the engine out of the car and when maneuvering it not to knock into things. For example, the engine mounts are cast and can break off if struck.
You can do preliminary cleanup with the engine on the hoist or on the stand, but the stand is better; there is no need to strain the hydraulics of the hoist. Catch the cleanup mess and dispose of any fluids properly, not down the toilet or in a gutter or stream.
If the engine is really oily, put a large drip pan under it before degreasing. The choice of degreaser is personal, with many fluids available from auto parts stores. Apply the cleaner sparingly and be careful to keep as much of the runoff in the drip pan as possible. When the engine is clean of all external grease and oil, pour the contents of the drip pan into a container.
On this attractive Edelbrock twin-carb 8BA, the exhaust manifold bolts are used to secure the lifting strap. This system is preferred over chains; straps are less likely to cause damage because of a misalignment.
Your engine may have come drained of oil and water, but now is a good time to make sure it’s empty. Ford V-8 drain plugs had various locations over the years; the 8BA’s are located at the rear of the pan. You need a wrench to remove them. (You might want to buy a magnetic plug for the future.) Once all of the easily drained oil and water is out of the engine, remove the oil pan. Sixteen bolts hold the pan on.
As with most engine rebuilds, you need a number of special tools. Many such tools were made by the K. R. Wilson Company, the official tool supplier to Ford. Some special tools, such as the cam bearing tool and the valve-removing tool (pickle bar), are available from Van Pelt Sales. You can even rent a pickle bar from Van Pelt; a purchase might not be worth it if you’re building only one engine. Another option is to pay an engine shop to perform just one operation.
