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J’mee and Jake—A Tale of Two Terriers

Rescued dog J’mee is an adorable scruffy white terrier mix.

Scruffy white terrier mix J’mee was an owner release—surrendered to a California animal shelter in 2011 because she was “too energetic” and “bullied” the family’s older dog. An all too familiar story of a first-rate dog surrendered and destined for an uncertain future through no fault of her own. With an abundance of tears, the owner relinquished J’mee, left abruptly, and never looked back.

All smiles and exuding uncontrollable glee, Jake, an intact terrier mix, was picked up roaming the streets of Perris, California, in 2014. How long the one-year-old dog had been on the streets is anyone’s guess. If he once had a home, he had been gone a long time. His ratty, matted coat, and skin-and-bones physique suggested a scavenger’s life. Jake had no collar, no tags, no microchip, no ID. Zip. Zero. Nada.

Adopting a shelter or rescue dog can seem like a roll of the dice. Rescuing a terrier (or two!) can add additional elements of risk simply because of the breed’s wide range of characteristics, which run with individual variations throughout the terrier clans thirty recognized breeds. Generally speaking, terriers tend to like people, but many have little tolerance for other animals, including other dogs—and especially other terriers.

Bred to “go to ground,” hunting vermin is a vocation and a passion for many terriers, one that has been passed down through the generations. Characteristically feisty, terriers enjoy a good scrap but a willingness to fight is different than a bad temperament. Rescuing a terrier or terrier mix requires a savvy owner who understands these pint-sized, full-of-spunk dogs. My parents, despite my cautious advice, knew J’mee was perfect. They shelled out the adoption fee and sprung from the shelter the unbelievably cute two-year-old mix.

A recipe for disaster? One might assume so. After all, high-energy dogs are not the best match for senior citizens (even very active senior citizens), and terriers can be the quintessential high-energy dogs. Overall, my parents lucked out. J’mee bonded almost instantly to my parents, but she remained a bit worried and uncertain for the first weeks. Her sensory system appeared overwhelmed by new owners, a new home, and new sights and smells. Car rides remained traumatic and were accompanied by uncontrollable shaking and trembling. Possibly she was experiencing flashbacks from the car ride that betrayed her trust and left her abandoned? She knew Sit and Down, and she was housetrained, crate trained, and lap trained. But she did have a few naughty habits. This frisky girl may never have gone to ground like her ancestors, but she has the terrier’s characteristic quick spirit. She notices all comings and goings of people, cats, and dogs. She fancies sitting at the window watching for passersby—preferably ones walking a dog—at which time she screams through the doggie door at 70 mph (112 kph), racing from one side of the house to the other squealing and barking until she chases away the “trespassers.” Once mission accomplished status has been satisfied, she resumes her position at the window to restart the “game.”

More problematic, she is an escape artist. She cannot be trusted off leash in any unsecured environment. She will take off if she gets loose and will keep on running until she is long gone out of Dodge. A gates-closed-at-all-times policy, coupled with patience, positive training, and consistent reinforcement have allowed her to make progress; however, not yet and possibly never to the point of being off leash in an unsecured environment.

Two years after rescuing J’mee, my now 84-year-old parents rescued Jake. Despite his renegade street-dog existence, the one-year-old terrier mix is a charmer. The happiest of happy dogs, Jake is an affectionate extrovert, inquisitive, and adventurous with a big and enjoyable spirit. His pedigree is unknown, but in keeping with the terrier’s classic characteristics, he is energetic with a delightful sense of humor but more mischievous than feisty. Half terrier. Half backhoe. Jake loves to dig, dig, and dig some more. A highly prized manicured lawn now resembles a land mine of brown patches and potholes. Yet, Jakey, as he’s affectionately called, stole the hearts of everyone, especially his canine sibling J’mee. The two terriers are thick as thieves. Head over heels. And holy smokes, how they love to run! Watching the two of them posture, then suddenly take off zooming across the yard, darting around trees and under bushes makes you laugh so hard tears stream down your face.

Of course, it was not quite love at first sight. J’mee needed to show Jakey the ropes, and it took a few days of jockeying and posturing and a few snarky moments for the two dogs to establish the ground rules and be comfortable living together. Today, they are inseparable—eating, playing, and sleeping together. Jake is simply the perfect canine companion for J’mee, and vice versa. The situation easily could have been disastrous, but sometimes life has a way of delivering the right dogs at the right time to the right people.

Jake, rescued by the same couple who rescued J’mee, is an affectionate, happy terrier mix.

Thanks to careful introductions, Jake and J’mee are now inseparable companions.

Introducing a New Canine Family Member

Ideally, adding a second (or third!) dog to the family should be well planned out, with a good deal of thought directed toward a compatible canine buddy to your existing dog. Should you get a puppy or adult dog? Small or large dog? Male or female? Energetic or low-key personality? Do you really want another dog just for the sake of having another dog? Some owners get another dog as a companion for their existing dog. That’s all well and good, and for Jake and J’mee the situation worked out well. Unfortunately, there is no way of guaranteeing in advance if that will be the case. Not every dog will want to live with other dogs.

Then there are those times when life doesn’t work out as planned. Sure, you never intended to get another dog, but one day you find yourself driving home with an adorable furry addition in the backseat and thinking, “Now what?”

Did You Know?

The More the Merrier!

If you are adding a second or third dog to your existing canine family, you are in good company.According to the American Veterinary Medical Association’s 2012 U.S.Pet Ownership and Demographics Source book, as of 2011:

•An estimated 74.1 million dogs live in the United States in nearly 44 million homes, which equates to roughly 36.5 percent of the population.

•Six out of ten households own one dog.

•26 percent of households own two dogs.

•7.5 percent own three dogs.

•Slightly less than 5 percent (4.7 percent) own four or more dogs.

Equally interesting, 29 percent of pet owners said they would add a mixed breed as their next dog, with shelters (44.9 percent) and rescue organizations (39.8 percent) being mentioned most often as sources to be used if acquiring a dog.

Prevention: Creating a Safe Environment

Understanding your rescue’s temperament and breed tendencies can help make introductions smoother.

Adding a new dog to your current environment can double your fun and companionship. In the long run, things will probably work out fine, but in the beginning, it is wise to take a few precautionary steps to make all dogs feel good about the situation. Creating an environment that is safe and comfortable for all dogs involved and promotes a positive, tension-free friendship will go a long way in helping to ensure a successful transition. After all, the main goal of introductions is for it to be a positive experience for all dogs involved.

Some dogs are naturally calm and get along beautifully with other dogs from the get-go. In these instances, introductions may go off without a hitch, and all your dogs will be fast friends. This happens quite often, but plenty of trainers and behaviorists will cite cases in which introductions were rushed, forced, or unsupervised, and the dogs ended up despising each other from then on. Some owners, as well as a few trainers, opt for the free-for-all method, where they toss the new dog in with all the other dogs and let them sort it out. While this may work in rare instances, it is not recommended. Some dogs are more territorial than others, and you run the risk of causing lifelong relationship issues between the dogs—not to mention an increased likelihood of physical and emotional harm.

To be comfortable, your new puppy or adult dog needs to know he is safe and that the other dog (or dogs) won’t bully, intimidate, or hurt him. The same goes for your existing dog. He needs to know he can trust the newest family member.

Introducing Other Dogs

Ideally, introductions should be made on neutral territory, such as a short walk together around the block.

Luckily, dogs are social animals, and when well-socialized as youngsters they tend to grow into adult dogs who enjoy the company of other dogs. Sadly, some dogs develop unwanted behaviors while living with their previous owners. Others become stressed, anxious, or fearful while living on the streets or confined to a shelter situation.

No one single plan for dog-to-dog introductions exist. General guidelines will help to increase the odds of a smooth and minimally stressful transition. Yet much will depend on the temperament, personality, and size of the dogs; to some extent, each dog’s breed; and whether the new dog you are adding is a puppy, junior, or adult dog. Are any of the dogs anxious, fearful, sight or sound sensitive, dominant, or dog-to-dog aggressive? What are their play styles and energy levels? Equally important, what are the established preferences of your existing dog? Understanding each dog’s breed history, if you know it, will help you determine his or her individual traits. For example, J’mee, while her pedigree is unknown, appears to be part West Highland Terrier—a breed that can be cocky and tough and “Scottish to the core.” If your dog is part Boxer, it’s a good idea to understand that they play by standing on their hind legs and “boxing,” which can be intimidating and off putting to many dogs. Or, if you’ve rescued a high-drive, high-energy herding dog, you’ll need to understand that they like to control movement, which often includes nipping.

For multiple-dog households, consider introducing your new dog, be it a puppy or adult, to one dog at a time. If you know both dogs are social and friendly with other dogs, the introduction should be easy. Most humane societies and rescue organizations do temper and personality evaluations before releasing dogs for adoption. That said, not all shelter staff are knowledgeable about canine body language, and dogs living in a shelter environment can quickly deteriorate emotionally and therefore may not be accurately evaluated.

Training Tip:

Transition Period

Right away, you knew he was the dog for you! Yet, most likely, your dog doesn’t know what is happening, especially if he was an owner release to an animal shelter.His world has been turned upside down.He may see you as the latest person to shake up his life, including his sense of stability and security (if he ever had any!).A new environment, sights, smells, and sounds can be overwhelming.He may not understand that he gets to stay with you forever, and that you’ve got his back no matter what.Subsequently, stressing or acting out is not uncommon for many dogs.Take your time, provide him with plenty of guidance and direction and love, and allow him to adjust at his own pace.

Meeting Outdoors

Ideally, introductions should be made outside in a quiet, open area and, if possible, on neutral territory, such as during a short walk together around the block or a friend’s yard. This gives the dogs plenty of room to negotiate, and they are not forced to interact in a small space. This is doubly important if you are uncertain how the dogs will react. A nearby park may work but be careful of too much stimulation, such as other dogs or loud, rambunctious kids. Consider enlisting the help of a friend, family member, or experienced dog trainer who can handle one of the dogs.

Depending on each dog’s temperament, personality, and individual characteristics, a fenced yard, field, or tennis court, works well—provided it is a safe environment. For example, two socially friendly dogs, with little or no emotional baggage or aggressive tendencies, may quickly accept each other on their own terms if allowed to interact unencumbered in a fenced-in area without owner interference. No pressure on either of the dogs. While some experts caution against this type of introduction, many an owner has inadvertently created a good deal of canine anxiety by attempting to force interactions between the dogs or jerking or tightening the tension on the leash, which can escalate to canine threats or aggression.

If going off leash is not possible, consider letting the dogs drag their leashes on the ground. If that isn’t possible, use a 6-foot (100 cm) leash or long line but be sure to keep the leash or long line loose at all times.

While there are numerous advantages to introducing dogs on neutral territory, sometimes it isn’t possible. In these instances, your yard is better than inside the house. Urinating and marking are normal ways dogs meet, greet, and find out anything and everything about each other, and outdoor meetings allow them this opportunity. Inside your home can create additional stress because of the inability to “mark”—or they may mark your couch, which does not get things off to a good start! Plus, indoors may not provide the open space dogs need to adequately check each other out. Some dogs are more territorial than others, and being indoors, which forces dogs to investigate each other at close range, may create additional problems.

With any dog-to-dog interactions, you must be observant. Brush up on your canine body language skills so you can recognize when either dog is worried, anxious, fearful, or simply being a bully. Also, keep things moving. It’s probably one of the most important things you can do to help dogs become comfortable with each other. For example, if one or all of the dogs get up on their hackles, stare at each other, or the like—tell them in a happy, calm voice, “Hey, guys, let’s go this way”—or whatever is necessary to calmly break up the potentially tense get-together. If you start walking in a purposeful way, the dogs, or at least one of them, should follow. The key is to move away from the dogs, which helps to diffuse additional tension. This is a difficult concept for many owners because human nature is to move toward the dogs.

Next Steps

Once the dogs have completed the “meet and greet” outside and appear comfortable with each other, then you can move them indoors. However, until you are certain how they will react, do not leave them alone. Again, baby gates and ex-pens are great for separating dogs yet still allowing them to see each other. This also prevents them from being forced to interact, and gives them plenty of time to be away from each other for periods of time.

Many puppies, as well as some adult dogs, can become overwhelmed and unnecessarily frightened by two or three dogs trying to get access to them at the same time. In these instances, try sitting on the floor and holding your dog in your lap. If everything seems fine, let one dog interact, but continue to supervise. Then change dogs—putting the first dog away and allowing another dog to meet his new canine sibling.

Depending on your new dog’s history, if he is nervous, shy, timid, fearful, or was bullied or intimidated by other dogs, or if your other dog likes to be in charge, you will need to take precautions and make introductions slowly. This process can take a few hours, days, or weeks. Never force introductions because this may destroy any chance of dogs getting along—ever! All introductions should be positive and stress free. Obviously, the situation itself dictates a certain amount of stress on the dogs’ part, but your calm mannerisms and deportment will go a long way toward minimizing additional stress.

It may be necessary to put your new dog in an ex-pen and allow the dogs to meet and greet with a barrier between them. Sometimes learning to simply exist around each other is a huge step and a safe way for dogs to get comfortable in the same environment. Dogs who are nervous, anxious, disobedient, hyperactive, and so forth can create chaos and turmoil, which can lead to canine squabbling and scrapping. Use crates, x-pens, or room barriers to separate dogs when they can’t be supervised.

If you are lucky enough to have an acre or two of fenced property and it’s safe to let them run loose, then off-leash walks are great for letting dogs check out each other, explore their territory, run, play, and burn off excess stress and energy. Otherwise, parallel leash walks with your new dog and existing dog work well, too. They don’t have to walk next to each other. One on each side of you works well, and, as they become more comfortable together, you can gradually close the distance.

Most problems arise because the new and existing dogs are allowed to run loose too quickly in a chaotic, stressful environment. When introductions do not go smoothly and a squabble ensues, there is a good chance the grudge and long-term distrust will continue. No one wants chaos and animosity between animals. So it is always worth taking the time to introduce animals slowly and properly. If you are uncertain, consult an experienced dog trainer or behaviorist. It is well worth the time and financial investment to establish a positive, stress-free environment from day one rather than trying to “fix” a bad situation. “Better safe than sorry” is sound advice. So too is prevention! Prevention! Prevention!

Allow your new dog to explore his new house but keep an eye him.

In-Home Precautions

With any luck, the introductions will go off without a hitch, and you and your canine buddies will be on the fast track to plenty of fun and companionship. Allow the dogs to establish a hierarchy among themselves, with you, of course, being the leader. While it may be natural for owners to fuss and coo over the newest addition, it is important not to neglect your existing dog. First, it’s neither fair nor nice, and doing so can inadvertently make some dogs resentful.

Allow your new dog to explore the house but stay close to him. Never allow him unlimited or unsupervised access to your home until you are certain how he will react. Once the home tour is complete, you may need to set up baby gates or ex-pens to corral his environment. Your newest addition may or may not be housetrained, and you don’t want him hiking his leg from one end of the house to the other. Puppies, as well as a few adult dogs, love to chew on anything and everything—whether it fits in their mouth or not—which is another great reason to corral his environment.

In the beginning, you may need to pick up all toys, chew toys, bones, and any of your existing dog’s favorite items to prevent any sibling rivalry or conflict. Introducing these items after the dogs have accepted each other is fine. However, not all dogs can live harmoniously with toys or chews lying around. Not all dogs are willing to lounge side by side gnawing on bones or treats. It may be that you need to keep them picked up at all times to avoid a power struggle. Separating dogs in crates or via baby gates while they are chewing bones also may be necessary.

How your new dog will react to his new home is difficult to say. Again, much will depend on his history, breed, temperament, personality, age, and his response to his new home. How you handle the situation is equally difficult to prescribe, and you may need to adjust or tweak the guidelines to suit your dog.

It’s natural for many rescue dogs to be nervous or unsettled the first few days or weeks. Generally speaking, most dogs settle in after a short period of time. Calmness and patience on your part are most important and will go a long way toward helping your dog to adjust to his new life.

Introducing Children and Other Family Members

Children and dogs tend to go together, but too much togetherness all at one time can be overwhelming. Plenty of rescued dogs have never been around or socialized to children, and some dogs—well—simply do not tolerate any children, let alone noisy, rambunctious ones. Parents are the key figures when it comes to teaching children how to interact safely with a puppy or adult dog, and vice versa. By setting a few ground rules, you can help to ensure your children and new dog will develop a long-term friendship.

Young children are often boisterous and excitable and inconsistent with their behaviors. Often, their exuberance for the newest canine member can end up frightening rather than welcoming him. Many breeds, especially herding and terrier breeds, are excited by movement and like to chase and nip the legs of fleeing children. A natural doggie behavior, it’s a common reason herding breeds are surrendered to shelters and rescue groups. Allowing these behaviors to be reinforced means you will end up with a dog who sees no harm in chasing, jumping up, or nipping. Also, like young dogs, children have short attention spans and easily lose their patience with a rambunctious, seemingly uncooperative dog, especially if that dog is jumping and nipping. Supervise your newest canine addition and young children to discourage unwanted behaviors and create an environment of safe play.

To prevent your dog from being overwhelmed, introduce family members one or two at a time in a calm, quiet manner. No yelling, squealing, screaming, or sudden movements. For puppies or small dogs, try having your children (as well as adults) sit or kneel on the floor, which is less intimidating. Otherwise, have them turn slightly sideway, avoid making direct eye contact, and let the dog approach on his terms.

Despite popular opinion, most dogs dislike hugging and petting on the head, which they often find annoying or frightening. Until you know how your dog will react, teach your children to scratch or pat his chest instead. Teach your children early on that your puppy or adult dog is not a toy but a living animal who must be handled properly and treated gently, kindly, and respectfully. Never allow children to overwhelm any dog or put him in a position where he can be bullied or frightened. Depending on your dog’s temperament and personality, he may lash out and bite, and no one wants that.

Equally important, show older children how to properly pick up a small-breed dog or young puppy. For very young kids, do not allow them to pick up the dog without supervision. They can inadvertently hurt him should they pick him up by his ears or legs or, heaven forbid, drop him.

Keep in mind that most puppies and adult dogs have tons of energy, but they tire easily and need plenty of quiet time to recuperate from the demands of being a dog. Provide your new dog with a comfortable bed, crate, or ex-pen of his own for sleeping, recuperating, and escaping the domestic hustle and bustle. Everyone, especially children, should understand that all dogs need to be left alone while they are sleeping. No one wants a grumpy dog!

Supervise your newest canine addition and young children to discourage unwanted behaviors and create an environment of safe play.

Introducing Cats

Chances are your existing dog and cat can learn to live harmoniously—even if they dislike each other. Your new dog also needs to learn that chasing, eating, or terrorizing the cat is unacceptable behavior that should be dropped immediately. To help set a positive relationship, provide your cat with plenty of escape routes. Cats like being up high, so provide plenty of access to countertops, furniture, and so forth. Also, provide your cat with a room of his own, such as a spare room, office, or den, so he can escape canine antics and not be bothered. For the first introduction, keep your new dog on leash so he can’t chase or harass your cat (an ex-pen or baby gates also work well). You don’t want your dog’s first introduction to be a scratched nose! Depending on your dog’s history, you will need to determine if he stands a chance of being safe around cats. The more dogs you keep together, the greater the chance they will switch to a pack mentality if they become overly excited. Some herding breeds, such as Border Collies, Australian Shepherds, and Belgian Tervurens like to stalk cats. So you’ll want to be on the lookout for signs of this behavior and keep it under control. Allowing your dog to harass a cat or other animal is neither fair nor funny and should never be encouraged or tolerated. Always reward dogs and cats for behaving calmly in each other’s presence.

Must Love Dogs…And Birds, Rabbits, Hamsters, and Other Critters

Some dogs are naturally gentle and calm around other animals, be they birds, rabbits, chickens, horses, or other companion animals. Stories have been told of dogs who developed the most unlikely best-friend relationships with horses, goats, sheep, chickens, and so forth. How your dog reacts around non-dog animals will greatly depend on his history, age, and whether or not his previous owner allowed him to develop unwanted habits. Chasing livestock is an instinctive behaviors for many dogs. In many areas, livestock owners are legally allowed to shoot a dog caught harassing their livestock. So taking the time to make your household a peaceable kingdom is well worth the effort. Follow these doable tips for keeping your animals safe:

•Make introductions slowly to allow plenty of time for your dog and the other animal to get used to each other. This may take several days or weeks.

•Keep your dog leashed and your bird, rabbit, hamster, or the like caged until you are absolutely certain they are both comfortable. Otherwise, depending on your dog’s breed, history, instinct, and prey drive, the outcome may be disastrous.

•Choose a neutral area for introductions. For example, a room where your bird’s cage is not normally located.

•Reward both dog and bird (or rabbit, ferret, etc.) for good behavior. (Be sure to have plenty of treats on hand before beginning your introductions.)

•Once your dog and other small pet become comfortable in the same room together, begin allowing your dog off leash as long as he continues to behave himself! Never leave your bird, rabbit, hamster, guinea pig, ferret in the same room unattended. Dogs are easily stimulated, and accidents can happen with even the most well-trained dog.

Dogs and cats can learn to live together harmoniously.

Horses

What’s more fun than a trail ride with your best canine friend running alongside? While plenty of dogs do chase horses, and plenty of horses are fearful of dogs, in many cases, when precautions are taken, dogs and horses can learn to tolerate and even care for each other. Clashes between dogs and horses can quickly escalate into a dangerous situation for dog, horse, and rider. Therefore, a few doable precautions will keep everyone safe.

•Introduce your dog to horses at an early age and train/reward him for being calm. Ideally, this is easiest when puppies are young and impressionable. Depending on your dog’s age and history and how he responds (i.e., fear or aggression), you may need to invest extra time and effort.

•Horses with positive experiences around dogs are ideal for introductions and socialization because they minimize the risk to dogs—especially puppies.

•If either animal is nervous, always work within their threshold by starting with enough distance between them so they can see each other, yet still take treats and respond to commands.

•Obedience train your dog—Come, Sit, Down, Stay, Wait—so you can preempt a chase or keep your dog safe should a horse panic, bolt, or become unruly.

•Keep your dog leashed and under control when around horses—especially if he lacks a solid, reliable recall (Come) command.

•Do not allow your dog to practice unwanted behaviors, such as barking or chasing horses. Some breeds are easily stimulated by movement (think herding dogs!), and a moving horse can easily excite a dog’s natural prey or chase instinct.

Rescue Tip:

Commit to a Few Days

Ideally, you will want to bring your newest addition home when you have a few days to spend together, such as the weekend. Otherwise, consider taking a few days off work to be home with the dogs. Although it may seem excessive, in the long run, it will help with the bonding process and to build a more solid human-canine relationship. Spending time together helps to ease some of the stress and anxiety your dogs may be feeling. You can monitor their behavior, learn about your new dog’s habits, and intercept any potential problems. Doing so will help the transition, and your future time together will be much smoother. Spending time with your new and existing dog is important. However, not everyone has the luxury of taking a few days or a week off to hang out with the dogs. In these instances, try to spend as much time with them as possible—especially when you’re not working. For example, avoid scheduling activities during your nonwork hours—unless you plan to take your dogs with you! Same with vacations—try to avoid taking them and being away from your dogs for extended periods for the first few months. Again, it seems excessive, but the more time you can spend with your dogs, the smoother the transition and bonding process will be for you and the dogs.