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3 Cherokee Park Loop

THEY JUST DON’T BUILD BRIDGES LIKE THIS ANYMORE.

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GPS TRAILHEAD COORDINATES: N38° 14.010’ W85° 40.919’

DISTANCE & CONFIGURATION: 4.2-mile balloon

HIKING TIME: 1.5 hours

HIGHLIGHTS: Beargrass Creek, Hogan’s Fountain, stone bridges

ELEVATION: 466’ at trailhead, ascending to 579’ at high point

ACCESS: Daily, sunrise–sunset; free admission

MAPS: Louisville Metro Parks, USGS Louisville

FACILITIES: Picnic tables and shelters, restrooms, playground

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: None on this trail, although the park offers several miles of paved trails.

COMMENTS: Pets must be leashed. Hiking is prohibited in wet conditions and during freeze–thaw cycles.

CONTACTS: Louisville Metro Parks, 502-456-8100; louisvilleky.gov/metroparks

Overview

Cherokee Park—part of one of only four city-park systems in the United States created by Frederick Law Olmsted—is a jewel in the rough. Designed by Olmsted and his firm in 1891, it’s among Louisville’s 18 parks and 6 interconnecting parkways attributed to the father of American landscape architecture. Cherokee Park is undergoing a lengthy revitalization process to reclaim its former glory as a sanctuary for outdoor recreation. The Cherokee Park Loop takes hikers along Beargrass Creek and through much of the heart of this 409-acre park.

Route Details

Frederick Law Olmsted, who also designed Central Park in New York City, the Biltmore Estate outside of Asheville, North Carolina, and the grounds of the U.S. Capitol, believed that city parks were an essential element of healthy urban communities. His design philosophy encompassed three elements: recreative use (such as walking or relaxing), gregarious use (picnicking and other social activities), and exertive use (including ball fields and courts).

The main artery for travel in Cherokee Park is the 2.4-mile Scenic Loop, a one-way paved road divided evenly between vehicular and pedestrian use. On almost any day of the week, and on most evenings as well, the pedestrian lane is filled with walkers, joggers, cyclists, and parents pushing strollers. The Scenic Loop combines manicured plantings with a pastoral backdrop of natural forests and tumbling creeks. Multiple stone bridges and two large fountains provide the hardscape that completes the look.

Originally Cherokee Park was surrounded by beautiful homes to the north and south and Seneca Park (another Olmsted park) to the west. Today the Louisville Presbyterian Theological Seminary lies to the east, I-64 crosses the northern tip of Cherokee Park, and a golf course lies to the west. Consequently, Cherokee Park has suffered from the growing pains of overuse due to increased urban density. In addition, a 1974 tornado—part of that year’s devastating multistate “super outbreak”—destroyed many of the large, mature trees that dominated the landscape. The loss of canopy has resulted in less-desirable and more-invasive plant species taking root in the park.

Admittedly, Cherokee Park can be quite crowded, and solitude is hard to find. Litter is a constant eyesore, and Beargrass Creek (which runs through the middle of the park) is polluted with urban runoff. Nevertheless, the “bones” of Cherokee Park remain sound, and Louisvillians continue to be drawn to its natural beauty. The last several years have seen a tremendous push to revitalize all the Olmsted parks. Several nonprofits and foundations are working together with the city to bring the Louisville park system back its glory days.

The 4.2-mile Cherokee Park Loop gives hikers a broad overview of the space’s beauty and diversity. Highlights include a hike along Beargrass Creek, the Nettelroth Memorial Bird Sanctuary, Hogan’s Fountain, and numerous limestone cliffs. An incredible maze of trails includes paved, multiuse, mixed-use, and just-plain-rogue paths that can confuse the first-time or casual hiker. The trail described here, in contrast, prepares you for repeat visits by sharpening your sense of bearing and navigational skills.

At the far end of the parking lot described in the Directions, the trail begins behind the kiosk. Follow the dirt path along Beargrass Creek (creek-right as the current flows downstream). Here the creek flows over small rocks, creating a soothing, musical sound before falling into a deeper pool that surrounds “Big Rock,” at the base of a limestone cliff. A tattered hanging rope provides evidence of summer swims for those daring to brave the water quality. Debris piles near the shoreline demonstrate how high water levels can rise after heavy spring rains.

The trail brings you to the corner of Beargrass and Alta Vista Roads, and a set of large millstones hand-hewn from conglomerate rock. Each stone is more than 5 feet around and 12 inches thick—much too heavy for pranksters to carry off.

A little more than 0.2 mile from the parking lot, the trail joins the road. Keep left and walk in the pedestrian lane facing the traffic. This is a good place to spot mallard ducks near the old stone retaining wall. The birds feed off the insects and young plants along the creek bottom, their rear tail feathers standing vertical off the surface of the water as their heads dive deep below.

At 0.34 mile, carefully cross the road at the sign for the multiuse trail. Bernard and Rosa Bernheim, who with Bernard’s brother, Isaac Wolfe Bernheim, helped establish Bernheim Arboretum and Research Forest (see Hikes 14 and 15), donated the bridge on the west side of the road in 1928. The stonework on the bridge is simply magnificent.

From here the trail follows the park’s boundary with the Presbyterian Theological Seminary. Here volunteers have worked hard to remove much of the invasive honeysuckle that plagues the park. Naturalized hollies and native wild cherries thrive in the newly opened canopy. In early spring, yellow trout lilies, as well as the slightly invasive small blue periwinkle, bloom here. Unfortunately, the sweet yellow flowers of lesser celandine—named Kentucky’s Least Wanted Plant of 2011 by the Kentucky State Nature Preserves Commission—are pervasive here as well.

The trail then rejoins the creek, crosses an old abandoned road, and continues up a small hill on a mixed-use trail. (I told you the trail system at Cherokee can be confusing!) About 0.8 mile from the trailhead, bear right (northeast) at the Y in the path, toward the house atop the hill with the French mansard roof and the naturalized meadow as a backyard.

The trail now begins to skirt the bird sanctuary, which has been fenced off to protect reforestation efforts under way here. Woodcocks, colloquially known as timberdoodles, have been known to frequent this area. With long, slender bills and 360-degree vision, these birds tend to feed in the early evening by probing the soil for invertebrates. Woodcocks are also known for their elaborate mating rituals. Given that the females are much larger than the males, we can only guess who wins.

While the trail is lined with cedars and pine, in the middle of the meadow stands a stately walnut tree, generously studded with mistletoe. Stay on the path as it follows a series of switchbacks and crosses a narrow road. The Kentucky Mountain Bike Association has put in hundreds of hours renovating these and other switchbacks in the park, and its efforts show.

The trail then descends toward the Scenic Loop and Maple Road, to bring you about 1.55 miles from the trailhead. Don’t cross the Alvin Hert Bridge—instead, follow the Scenic Loop right (north) by staying in the pedestrian lane. Walk another 0.6 mile and then turn left (south) on the paved Baringer Hill path, just past the intersection with Cochran Hill Road. After the trail crosses Beargrass Creek, take a sharp left up the hill on the dirt trail to head east back along the creek. Several other trails will come in to your right, but keep bearing left to stay high above Beargrass Creek. The cliffs below are home to several varieties of sedum and wild columbine, and pileated woodpeckers like to haunt this area.

At the top of the hill, look right and you’ll see Hogan’s Fountain, a gift from Mr. and Mrs. W. J. Hogan to the city in 1904. The fountain features the Greek nature god Pan and served as a watering spot for horses and dogs. Make a quick detour to see the fountain, then return to the trail to continue your journey.

The trail crosses the Scenic Loop once again, traverses a small wooded area, goes past the tennis courts, and then traverses more woods before descending to Barrett Hill Road. Turn left (north) and cross the stone bridge (passing Beargrass Road on your right). A final right-hand turn takes you back to walking along the creek (now upstream, but still creek-right). Retrace your steps back to the parking lot.

Nearby Attractions

Louisville Metro Parks opens several hills for sled riding, including Baringer Hill at Cherokee Park, at the corner of Alexander Road and the Scenic Loop. In the winter, signs are posted indicating when snows are sufficient and sledding is permitted, provided proper equipment (that is, no old-car hoods or garbage-can lids) is used. Park staff will even light and maintain bonfires, supply first-aid kits, and call emergency services if necessary. What more could you ask for your tax dollar? Grab a thermos of hot chocolate, and you’re ready for some wintertime fun.

Directions

From I-264 (Henry Watterson Expressway), take Exit 17 and head west on Taylorsville Road, toward downtown Louisville. After 1 mile, turn right (north) on Pee Wee Reese Road (just west of Bowman Field Airport). After 1.5 miles, turn left (west) on Seneca Park Road and drive 0.3 mile to the intersection with Park Boundary Road. The parking lot will be straight ahead, on the northeast side of the bridge over Beargrass Creek (across the creek from the Big Rock parking lot and playground). The trailhead begins from this small parking lot.