Читать книгу Siam and Laos, as Seen by Our American Missionaries - Various - Страница 11

In the cool season in Siam, or in the months of December and January, the missionaries frequently go in boats into the country, to be absent two, three, or four weeks at a time, and as there are no hotels in Siam they live in their boats day and night. These boats have a snug little house in the centre, about seven by five and a half feet, and are propelled by six boatmen, who use long oars and stand behind them when rowing. They are paid about twenty cents a day, and their rice is given them. The missionaries take with them hundreds of religious books and tracts in the Siamese language, which they distribute as they travel from village to village, preaching and giving instruction to all who will listen.

Perhaps you will be interested in an account of one of these mission tours taken by Dr. House and myself.

One fine December morning, after seeing our books, clothing, bedding, provisions, dishes, cooking utensils, and even our table, all snugly stowed away in the little boat, we left our quiet home in Bangkok, the capital city.

MISSIONARY-BOAT FOR TOURING IN SIAM.

Ascending the beautiful Menam River, we made our way among numerous boats of every size and description, ships displaying the flags of several different nations, and gayly-painted, clumsy Chinese junks that were moored by their huge cables in the stream, and on, on we went, leaving the busy, idolatrous city behind us. At five o’clock we stopped at a pleasant Buddhist temple by the river-side for our evening meal. This finished, we moved on for an hour or two after dark, and then moored our boat for the night by fastening it to two bamboo poles which our men had planted in the soft mud near the bank.

Here let me tell you what our sleeping arrangements were for each night. What had been our dining- and sitting-room through the day was soon converted into a bedroom, and in a very simple way too. The seats of our boat were arranged along the sides, omnibus-fashion, and, filling up the space between these with boards made for the purpose, we had our bedstead, and our boat-cushions made our bed. Having spread our bedding and hung up the indispensable mosquito-net by strings from the four corners of the roof, we were ready to commend ourselves to the kind care of Him who never slumbers, and lay us down for a good night’s sleep.

The boatmen spread their mats on the deck outside the cabin, and, putting up a kind of temporary roof made of leaves fastened together, they were protected from the dew, and were contented and happy.

Generally at daylight every morning the men would move on a while before breakfast. We always preferred to stop for meals or for the night near some temple or village.

While taking our dinner one day the two windows of our boat on the side of the river-bank being open, the people who were collected there seemed much pleased to see us use knives, forks and spoons. It was a novel sight to them, as they use the fingers instead. An aged couple watched us with much seeming interest for some time, and then the husband said to his wife, “Kin yark nuk” (They eat with great difficulty).

When we first went to Siam not one woman or little girl in one hundred could read, although all the boys are taught by the priests in the temples to read and to write. One day a very bright, interesting little girl, twelve years old perhaps, came to our boat to see the strangers, and when asked if she could read, she did not answer yes or no, but with surprise exclaimed, “Why, I’m a girl!” as if we ought to have known better than to ask a girl such a question.

One day, while our cook was preparing our simple meal of rice and curry, we walked out into the pleasant grounds of a temple. Here we found a fine large tree whose beautiful white, wax-like flowers attracted us by their fragrance. While gathering some of them a young man came up and spoke to us. Fearing he would think we were going to offer the flowers to the idols in the temple, Dr. House said, “I am not going to offer these, as you would, to idols which can neither see nor smell them, but shall give them to my wife, who can enjoy them.” The tree seemed almost alive with gay butterflies. Several priests had gathered about us, and when they were asked if all this life and happiness and beauty did not make them think there must be a wise and good Creator who made the trees, flowers and butterflies with their gay dress, they replied “Pen eng” (They made themselves). Oh, is it not sad that the religion of this poor people teaches them there is no living God, no Creator who made this beautiful world? The dead god Buddha that they worship, whose images are in every temple, was but a man like themselves, and, now that he has left the world, knows and cares nothing about it.

An old priest begged our umbrella. The doctor said, “If I give it to you, very soon you will want to make merit, and will perhaps spread it over some senseless idol of brick and mortar that cannot feel the heat as we do.” Soon after, as they followed us to the boat, we actually saw an old umbrella which the wind had blown from a dilapidated image it had sheltered. When reminded of what had just been said, they laughed heartily, but I fear were not convinced of the folly of doing such things.

In the listening group one day was a gray-headed man, who asked, “Is Jesus the same as God?” “What must we do that the Lord Jesus may save us?” “What deeds of merit must we do to be followers of the true God?” When we told him that we left our home, our parents and our friends, and journeyed many thousand miles over the sea, on purpose to tell him and his countrymen of the religion of Jesus, the only Saviour from sin, he thanked us. We gave him a gospel tract on prayer, hoping that the light he had received might lead him to pray for more.

On one occasion we stopped at an old preaching-place to rest. Let me tell you what a queer place it was for a sermon. It was a large room open on all sides and decorated with sticks of very small bamboo, to which were pasted small triangular pieces of white paper. Thousands of these were clustered fancifully together. From the ceiling in the centre of the room hung a piece of cloth two or three yards long, on which was a coarse picture of Buddha with a disciple on each side of him, and above them in the clouds angels with flowers. Below them, on a black ground to represent darkness, were painted persons suffering the torments of hell and the priests trying to assist them.

The pulpit was a kind of high, armed chair, coarsely decorated. In this the yellow-robed priests sit cross-legged and preach in a singsong tone. Seeing two images of Buddha there, we told those assembled of the sin and folly of trusting in them. A young man replied at once, “How should we know better, when there is no one to tell us? I beg to listen while you tell us;” and he did listen very attentively. His question touchingly reminded us of the words of Paul: “How shall they call on Him in whom they have not believed? and how shall they believe in Him of whom they have not heard? and how shall they hear without a preacher? and how shall they preach, except they be sent?” (Rom. 10:14).

One day we visited an image-house, and found one idol that had fallen over backward, another without a head, another without arms. When we came out an old priest asked us if we had been in to worship. We replied, “No, indeed! What we saw there were objects of pity rather than of adoration. They cannot take care of themselves, cannot hold themselves up; what can they do for you or for us?”

Thus we went from one village to another, conversing with hundreds of the people and giving away our books until they were gone.

PRABAT.

A VISIT TO THE “MECCA” OF THE SIAMESE.

Every February multitudes of the Siamese visit Prabat. The word means sacred foot, and it is supposed that Buddha left a clear imprint of his foot in a rock on a mountain there, which is a standing proof to all his followers that he once not only really lived upon earth, but that he visited Siam.

Let me tell you of a visit Dr. House and I once made to this sacred spot. As most of the traveling in Siam is in boats, we left home in ours one fine day in February, taking with us some Christian books and tracts. We ascended the beautiful Menam River, passing many thatched-roof villages and scores of temples. At Ayuthia, the old capital of the kingdom, we took the eastern branch of the river, and on the evening of the third day we reached Ta Rua, where we made our way to a landing-place through an immense number of boats of every description. From here we were to proceed by land to Prabat, a distance of about fourteen miles, and after engaging an elephant and making other arrangements, little time was left us for rest.

At two o’clock in the morning we were awakened and told that the elephant was in readiness. It was quite dark, and as by the dim torchlight I saw before me the huge form of the creature I was to mount, I confess to considerable reluctance and trembling. My husband climbed up first, and then, the elephant putting out his knee to receive me as it had him, I stepped upon it and with help managed to reach my lofty perch. The driver kept his place astride the creature’s neck. One of the men scrambled up behind, and we were off, leaving the others to follow us soon in a buffalo-cart. It was too dark for any but a practiced eye to see the road, and in less than half an hour our driver contrived to lose the way, so that until daylight we groped on through the jungle, not knowing into what pit the beast might fall or when it might brush against a tree and throw us off. Committing ourselves to the great Care-taker, we watched for the first rays of morning light to guide us on our course, and when some time after sunrise we struck upon the beaten path we were happy and grateful indeed. Now I could see where I was, and found myself seated in a howdah, or covered saddle, made of strong wood. The top was a kind of basket-work lined with leaves, and so arranged as to protect us from sun and rain and from branches of trees as we passed. The elephant was about nine feet high, and the seat was raised at least a foot above his back. To novices the elephant-ride is apt to be rather alarming.

Our road much of the way lay through a beautiful piece of woods, the trees sometimes forming an arch over our heads. We passed multitudes of pilgrims going or returning, some riding on elephants, some in buffalo-carts and some on foot; also groups of natives seated by the wayside with kowlan (rice cooked in joints of bamboo), palm-tree sugar, wild honey in the comb, etc., to sell to passers-by. I enjoyed the ride and the novelty of the scenes around me very much. The motion and the creaking sound reminded us of an old-fashioned stage-coach on springs. The driver was asked how so huge an animal could be so easily controlled by man. He held up his stick, at the end of which was, not a lash, but a pointed iron spike or hook about three inches long and as large as one’s finger. He said, “This is what makes them submissive.” Well may the poor creatures fear it, for it is sometimes driven most unmercifully into their heads.

Our kind heavenly Father watched over us, our beast behaved nobly, and we arrived at Prabat safely about ten o’clock in the morning, instead of at seven, as we should if we had not lost our way. Here, nestling under the rocky sides of the mountain, were several wats, or monasteries, with their many dwellings for the priests, preaching-places, and huge image-houses, like the one seen on the right of the picture (p. 103). Hundreds of bamboo huts had been newly erected for the accommodation of the multitudes there assembled. The air was filled with the melody of sweet-toned bells and the lively tinkling music of numerous Siamese bands. A newly-vacated priests’ house in one of the monasteries was soon put at our disposal. It contained but a single small room, with two windows and a little low door. There was a veranda on one side, where our servants could be accommodated. Travelers, in this country especially, must not be fastidious, and we were too glad to secure the shelter and the retirement the little dormitory promised to be disposed to look farther. On taking possession we found an old rice-pot, remnants of priests’ yellow robes and plenty of dirt. One of our men soon disposed of the rubbish and made all as clean as he could without broom or water. Furnishing the room with the mats and cushions brought with us from the boat, we seated ourselves upon them Siamese fashion and with good appetites partook of our midday meal.

Before us we could see the picturesque mountain with its many white-spired pagodas and the splendid shrine or temple which is built over the sacred footprint. In the picture it is the elegant structure which you see, with a seven-storied roof terminating in a graceful tapering spire (p. 103). The whole being richly gilded, the rays of the sun resting upon it made it very beautiful. Having dined, we made our way to this temple. The rocky platform on which it stands is reached by some fifty or more steps (not seen in the picture), which devout Buddhists always ascend on their knees. Its outer walls are covered with bright mosaic. The large double doors are beautifully inlaid with figures of mother-of-pearl. On the inner walls are painted scenes from the life of Buddha. The apartment is about thirty feet square, and the floor is covered with plates of what they say is silver. On the walls hangs what is said to be a representation of the footprint, set with jewels and made of beaten gold. It is about four feet long and one and a half broad. Of what is worshiped as the footprint itself we could see nothing but a dark oblong opening in the floor like a small open grave. It is enclosed in a railing about a foot high, said to be of solid silver, and over it is an elegant gilt canopy with curtains of gold cloth at the sides.

There were many worshipers within the temple, and a great number of small wax candles or tapers burning. The poor devotees entered the sacred spot on their knees, and, crawling beside the footprint, bowed the head three times to the floor and laid their offering within the enclosure. Then, crawling to some water that had probably been blessed by the priests, they sprinkled their heads, and left the room, as they entered it, upon their knees. Some who perhaps were too poor to make any offering took up a priest’s fan and with all the solemnity possible fanned the footprint. All these ceremonies were performed in perfect silence, and the place seemed truly solemn. Oh, how my heart ached to tell them the folly of all these things, and to point them to the almighty One whose footprints can everywhere be traced in nature!

When we were returning from the temple a messenger came running after us and invited us to the house of his master, who proved to be a nobleman of high rank from Bangkok. We had a very pleasant visit. Oranges and wild honey were served, and we drank tea poured from a massive gold teapot into tiny china cups. Many heard that afternoon the message we had brought. Reaching our house at evening, we spread our mats and took our seats upon the veranda. A crowd of people, who, like all the rest, had come there to make merit, soon collected around us. They supposed we also came to make merit, and there was no lack of opportunity for us to do so by giving to the various beggars that presented themselves. First came two distressed lepers. One, not able to walk, hitched himself along on the ground. He beat a Siamese drum with the stumps of his fingers, while the other beat two pieces of bamboo together, both singing at the same time the sad tale of their sufferings and inability to earn a living. Complimenting our generosity in advance, they begged for money. As they were really objects of pity, we gave each of them a small silver coin, upon which they broke forth in a shower of blessings: “May you flourish in this state of being and in the next—​have elephants, horses and servants, silver and gold, rice, salt and every good thing! May your age be lengthened out to a hundred years, a thousand years! May you have handsome children—​sons who shall be priests and head priests! May you live in a well-built house with many roofs!” etc. A blind man came singing and beating two pieces of brass together; then an old man with a withered arm; and so they kept coming as long as we would listen to them. We improved the opportunity to tell these poor creatures the story of the blessed Jesus, who, while upon earth, healed the leper, restored the withered hand and gave sight to the blind, and who is now both able and willing to heal the greater maladies of the soul.

The next day was the Sabbath, and during morning worship with our servants many came around the door to listen. After worship Dr. House left me to receive any visitors who might call for conversation or books, and went forth on his labor of love, spending the day till dusk among the people. Hundreds heard from his lips of the great Being who made them and of the Redeemer who died to save them, and among them were many attentive listeners.

Monday morning we left for home. About eight o’clock there were two elephants at the door for ourselves and our men. This time we mounted ours with the help of a ladder placed against his side, and now, more at home in the lofty saddle, I quite enjoyed my ride. No special adventure befell us on the way, and about one o’clock we reached our boat and found all in it safe. Paying our boat-keeper his moderate charge for the care of it during our absence, and having rested and dined, we were soon in our boat and again on our homeward way. We visited the villages on the banks, distributed our remaining books, and talked with the people in their homes and the priests in their wats, or temples.