Читать книгу How to Restore Your Corvette: 1968-1982 - Walt Thurn - Страница 9
ОглавлениеThe more time you spend inspecting and evaluating a project Corvette at the front end, the less time you need to spend locating hard-to-find replacement parts. Remember to take plenty of photographs and notes during your inspection.
Choosing the Correct Level of Restoration
In order to decide which year to target for a restoration, you need to determine which year fits into your budget. Here are the various types of restorations, from the least expensive to the most expensive.
If you are looking for a daily driver that presents itself well, this is the least expensive restoration. Usually these cars are in good mechanical and cosmetic condition. They only require some tender loving care to put them in tip-top condition. This kind of Corvette costs more, but repairs are easier to budget.
Minor Cosmetic Repairs
A well-maintained Corvette might require a complete cleaning of the exterior and interior. Road grime around the door openings and the hood surround should be inspected and cleaned. All of the rubber should be coated with a good silicone to keep the rubber pliant and preserved.
The two seats can be easily removed by unbolting the four retaining bolts that secure each seat to the floor. A good vacuuming and a high-quality carpet cleaner can remove many stains and grime that might exist on the carpet. A toothbrush can remove accumulated dirt in many of the interior seams. When the interior is cleaned, reinstall the seats and cover the interior parts with a good preservative.
Clean all of the window glass with window cleaner and dry with a lint-free towel. Ammonia and water also make an effective window cleaner. Mix both into a spray bottle and apply to the window surfaces. When this part of the cleaning is completed, remove the wheels and use a low-pressure washer to remove all of the dirt and grease that has accumulated in the wheel wells.
The more time you spend inspecting and evaluating a project Corvette at the front end, the less time you need to spend locating hard-to-find replacement parts. Remember to take plenty of photographs and notes during your inspection.
The best place to start looking for body damage is the flooring under the seats. Once the seats are out of the car it is easy to peel the carpet back to inspect the flooring. To remove the four 9/16-inch retaining bolts holding the seat, slide the seat forward to gain access to the two rear bolts. Next, slide the seat all the way to the rear to remove the two front bolts. Once the bolts are removed, the seat can be taken out of the car.
Expect surprises when removing seats. This car had old coins, a plastic spoon, and a cigarette lighter. The carpet is badly faded and needs to be replaced.
The paint might require minor touch up to cover any chips. After all of this is completed run your hands over the paint surfaces and if roughness is felt use a Clay Bar over all the painted surfaces to smooth it out and then apply a high-quality wax.
Minor Mechanical Repairs
A well-maintained Corvette usually requires very little mechanical restoration. However, always change all of the fluids and the engine drive belts.
Depending on the age of the battery, it is always cheap insurance to install a fresh one. Put a piece of tape on the battery and write the installation date on it with a marker.
It is always a good idea to start off with a fresh battery. I recommend writing the purchase date on a piece of tape and sticking it onto the battery case. This is good information to have in the case of any future warranty claims.
The best way to uncover previous body damage is to look closely from underneath the car. This car was involved in a collision in the rear and was not repaired very well. Damage to the front and rear of this generation Corvettes is very common.
Inspect the tires and brake pads and replace as necessary.
Major Cosmetic Repairs
If the restoration project car has body and interior damage, it requires a complete stripping of the body hardware and interior. The body needs to be repaired and the old paint removed to see if the car has had prior damage from an accident.
All damaged body areas need to be repaired, sanded, primed, and readied for painting. All damaged interior components, such as torn seats, stained carpets, and damaged dash components, need to be removed.
All serviceable items need to be cleaned, cataloged, and stored for future use.
Major Mechanical Repairs
The car might require complete frame, engine, suspension, transmission, and driveline repair or replacement. Depending on the budget, savvy car shopping and inspection prior to purchase can save time and money. However, sometimes a car is found at a low enough price that allows enough room to put major dollars into these repairs.
Any trim items that are removed should be inspected and cleaned. A list of the broken parts should be made and new ones purchased. Keep the old parts to compare to the new parts to make sure they are the same. Serviceable parts should be bagged and tagged, photographed, and stored for future use.
Do-It-Yourself or Professional
Early on, you need to decide how you’re going to get the project done: doing all the work yourself, having a shop do all the work, or a combination of the two.
Shop labor charges at a professional facility are usually quoted at an hourly rate. Any disassembly and restoration work that can be completed in a home shop can save bundles of money.
If the car requires major cosmetic and mechanical restoration, you can disassemble many mechanical, exterior, and interior components yourself. You may need some friends to help you with the heavy lifting, but anything that can be removed at home will be a big savings to your budget.
A large wooden dolly was built to support this Corvette body when its frame was removed. (See sidebar “Build Your Own Body Dolly” on page 36.) The body can now be moved around the shop or transported back to the owner’s house to complete the body restoration. Any work that can be completed at home helps reduce your overall budget.
Removing the exterior trim including bumpers, chrome, and lights yourself is a fairly easy, but time-consuming process. Each part and attaching hardware should be cleaned, inspected, and repainted if necessary for possible reuse. If the parts can be reused, they need to be cataloged with all of the attaching hardware. Include a note with the part that tells you where it was located.
After removal is completed the parts need to be stored in a safe location for reassembly. All of the interior trim can be removed with the same method, including the seats, seat belts, carpet, console cover, etc. Each part should be inspected and cleaned to determine if it can be reused. Any part that can be reused should be packed carefully.
Removing the frame from a C3 body requires the right equipment and skills to ensure that your Corvette body is not damaged. A sturdy dolly needs to be constructed so the body can be transported to a location where it can be repaired and painted. Always support the front overhang of the body. The nose is prone to cracking when it is free from its frame. The rear of a convertible body is another weak area that requires extra support when transferring it to a body dolly.
Seeking outside professional assistance for disassembly and reassembly of major components depends on the way your home shop is equipped. If you decide to remove your car’s frame and do not have a four-point lift then seek professional assistance. Being able to hoist the car up in the air gives access to all of the body bolts and allows the body to be supported as the frame is being lowered from the body. The mechanical components on the frame are much easier to disassemble when it is free from the body.
Frame rust is not uncommon for C3 Corvettes. These defects should be repaired before the frame is reinstalled.
Remove all mechanical parts before the frame is repaired, media blasted, and powdercoated. Once the frame is out of the car is a perfect time to remove all of these components.
The faster the Corvette is restored the more expensive it becomes. Professional shops are trained to work quickly because they get paid for each job they complete. Their hourly shop rates allow them to pay their shop expenses (including payroll) and leave enough money for a profit.
On the other hand, most enthusiasts can complete a majority of the restoration. Taking your time, learning as you go, and doing most of the disassembly and reassembly provides big savings. For a do-it-yourselfer, speed is not a friend; learning and quality should be the goal. If this is your first time disassembling a Corvette, take digital photos at each step. This provides a great reference during reassembly.
Forty percent of your budget and time should be devoted to restoring the frame and mechanical running gear in your Corvette. Every frame is stamped with the vehicle identification number (VIN) to match it with its original body. It usually can be found on the top of the driver-side frame rail near the seats.
Disassembly is usually the shortest part of the restoration process.
Cleaning, refurbishing, cataloging, and storing parts is time consuming. Always remember to “tag and bag” all parts. The impact on your restoration budget is small if you do it yourself. Expect to devote about 10 percent of the total project time and budget to cleaning, painting, and buying new parts, storage bags, and storage containers.
Body preparation is the next part of the project. Removing the frame requires some heavy lifting but you (and some buddies) can do it pretty quickly and without cost. Body repair and paint is time consuming and costly.
For the best job, all of the door, window glass, and trim should be removed and stored. If the frame is being removed, a rolling dolly must be constructed to transport the body to the paint shop. The body must be inspected for damaged or worn panels and those need to be replaced where necessary. The body must be stripped of its paint and all gaps and cracks must be repaired. Finally the body is sanded and painted. Expect to devote about 40 percent of the total project time and budget to body preparation.
Once the body has been removed from the frame, restoration of both can take place at the same time. This is the perfect time to remove the Corvette’s running gear. This includes the front suspension, steering gear, fuel lines, engine, transmission, driveshaft, rear differential, rear suspension, and gas tank.
Most frames of this Corvette generation require repairs for damage caused by rust or road damage. A damaged frame should be bead blasted to remove all grime and surface rust. Finally, after it is repaired it should be powdercoated to preserve the metal.
While the frame is being repaired is a perfect time to refurbish and/ or replace various mechanical components. The engine, transmission, and differential should be inspected and repaired or replaced as necessary. When all of the mechanical parts are refurbished or replaced they need to be reinstalled onto the finished frame. Expect to devote 40 percent of the restoration time and budget to body and frame restoration.
Should Your Numbers Match?
The C3 early models (1968–1972) are more popular with collectors. Add a documented rare optional equipment to one of these cars and the price can soar. The restoration cost for any of these models in similar condition is very close. Original parts for earlier cars are more expensive, but overall the restoration costs are similar for all models of the 14-year production run. The biggest difference is the initial purchase price, which trends higher for the early cars.
Fortunately the Corvette community has a great resource available that enables an owner to confirm a Corvette’s originality: the National Corvette Restorers Society (NCRS). It was founded in 1974 and began documenting and cataloging what original equipment was fitted to each Corvette when it left the factory.
This documentation includes factory options, paint (frame, engine, suspension, and all body components), and location of the vehicle identification number (VIN). In the late 1960s, General Motors introduced several anti-theft measures, and Corvettes left the factory with their VIN stamped on all of their major components to deter thieves and help in the recovery of stolen cars. The NCRS coined the term “numbers matching” to confirm the pedigree of a collector Corvette.
Today the NCRS has a large group of volunteer judges who inspect and evaluate Corvettes that are 20 years old or older to confirm their authenticity. If a car meets their standards, the car is awarded a “Top Flight” certificate that enhances its value.
Another resource group, Bloomington Gold, performs the same function; a Corvette that meets their criteria can become “Gold Certified.” This certificate also adds to the value of a Corvette.
To earn either of these certifications, each car must be completely original from front to back, top to bottom, and side to side. This includes the correct hose clamps, hoses, belts, markings, and everything else a Corvette had when it left the factory. Expect to pay top dollar for a numbers-matching Corvette.
Also restoring a numbers-matching Corvette is more expensive and time consuming. You must locate all of the correct parts that were installed in the car the year it was built. Proof that a car is original and has not been altered in any way must be made available during the judging process.
This book is not intended to take you down this path; for that you need to do a lot more research into NCRS or Bloomington Gold requirements.
The intention of this book is to help you restore a third-generation Corvette to the point that it drives and looks like a new car. Even if some things spoil its numbers-matching pedigree, it will be a joy to drive. My advice: Hold on to any original part that was on the car, no matter what the condition. Collectors can always restore a part to make it look original. These original parts add value to your car when you sell it.
Trained NCRS judges determine if a Corvette is fitted with its original factory equipment. Nothing is left to chance during the judging process. Everything, including nuts, bolts, screws, hose clamps, markings, decals, etc., must match original factory specifications for a car to earn a “Top Flight” certificate. This 1969 convertible is being judged at an NCRS event. These C07 and C08 (vinyl covering) auxiliary hardtops were available for convertibles from 1968 to 1975.
After all of this work is completed, expect to spend the remaining 10 percent of your time and budget finishing your new pride and joy.
A project like this, working nights and weekends, usually takes about a year and a half. Count on reaching an occasional snag that could extend this timetable, but this is a good rule of thumb.
Evaluating a Corvette for Restoration
Selecting a project Corvette depends on the size of your restoration budget and the amount of time available to complete the job. Many C3 Corvettes are approaching the half-century mark since they left the factory. Many have had a hard life, and an expert could hide many blemishes under that beautiful bodywork. I have observed many 1968–1982 Corvettes during my many projects and have learned that they all have some very common concerns and routine trouble spots. A full inspection is worth completing prior to buying a Corvette (or any car).
Throughout this book I will refer to the “steel birdcage” that is underneath every C3 Corvette. This is what the birdcage looks like in a coupe. The convertible is similar but does not include the rollover roof bar behind the driver. Rust is a common problem with C3 birdcages. The two body mounts that are next to the driver’s and passenger’s feet are where water from a leaking windshield frame will pool and eventually rust the area out. It is important to check this area before purchasing a C3 Corvette. Repairs can be expensive.
Corvette Repair created this impressive see-through 1969 L88 Corvette display car. This gives a clear visualization of how the steel birdcage sits on the frame without any body panels.
Once the year is determined, the best place to get pricing information is in local newspapers, at Corvette shows, at specialty Corvette stores, or on the Internet. Some valuable resources are mecumauctions.com, ebay.com/motors, and corvetteforum.com. Each offers a lot of information about the price of various years that are for sale in the current market. They are also good places to find out how options and condition impact the final price.
Once you find a Corvette that fits your budget, verify the car’s ownership records by studying its VIN and evaluating its mechanical and cosmetic condition. Take a friend on your inspection trip; the more eyes the better. Spend extra time inspecting underneath the car to look for rust or repaired damage. Count on some problems lurking underneath the fiberglass body. Trim and badges are expensive to replace, so it is a good idea to pay a little more for a car that has undamaged trim components. This will save your budget in the future.
Many people do not realize that C3 Corvettes are built around a steel birdcage that is bolted onto a steel ladder frame. If the car you are looking at has spent much of its life in snowy or rainy climates some level of rust is highly probable. The frame can be easily checked for rust by putting the car on a four-point lift. Use a flashlight and screwdriver to inspect the frame by tapping it to see if it has any weak spots.
Inspection Points
Here are some, but not all, of the things to look for during your buying inspection:
Underhood
• Open the hoods grab a fan blades and pull it backward and forward to observe movement in the fan clutch and water pump bearings. Water pumps go from loose to leaking quickly. Start the engine and listen for any howling noises coming from the pump or fan pulley.
• Check the clearance between the fan blades and the fan shroud. Loose belts or bent brackets could cause contact with the shroud. Weak or broken motor mounts also cause the fan to contact the shroud.
• This one is a little difficult to check at a private home or dealer lot, but it is important to find out if the steering box is filled with clean grease. These boxes are expensive to rebuild so this is worth checking.
• Inspect the flexible coupling (or rag joint) on the steering coupling. Look for splitting of the rubber and signs of wear or contact on the heads of the bolts.
• Have someone turn the steering wheel and look for movement on the steering shaft to see if the splines are loose. Powder or red rust is another sign the bolts are loose or worn.
• On cars with a manual transmission check to see if the end of the shift rod that is located underneath the steering shaft is secured with a spring clip. Many times these rods are held in place with a cotter pin, and they are prone to breaking.
• Check the hood bolts for excessive play or any that are missing. Make sure the bolts are not too long.
• Look for missing or torn rubber weather stripping used to seal the radiator and radiator support.
• Note the number stamped on the engine block. Learning whether the engine is original helps determine the price you are willing to pay.
• Find out how high the belts ride on the pulleys. Belts that ride too high are prone to be thrown off. Correct replacement belts for a Corvette can be hard to find and may need to be ordered from a Corvette aftermarket supplier.
• Engine compartment wiring and ground wires are always worth inspecting. One ground wire is located on the driver’s side of the radiator support. Headlight supports are also grounded.
• Feel on the underside of the radiator hoses to determine if they are leaking.
• Check to see if the A/C hoses on the passenger’s side near the exhaust manifold are hard and brittle.
• Look at the outer steel ring on the harmonic balancer for signs of shifting. Telltale signs include paint that is rubbed off the timing cover or a wobble when the engine is running.
• Check to see if the heater hoses on the passenger’s side of the engine compartment are secured with a bracket. If these hoses are resting on the upper control arm, the constant rubbing could wear a hole in the hoses.
Front Suspension
• If you can get the car up on a lift grip the front and bottom of the tire to check for wheel bearing play. If it feels rough when it is spun, the bearing might be excessively worn.
• Check the rubber bushings on the upper and lower control arms. If they are cracked, worn, or missing the car does not handle properly.
• Inspect for missing or worn sway-bar endlink bushings.
• Look at the upper A-arms to see how many alignment shims are in place (front and rear) on each side. Excessive shims could indicate a bent frame.
Steering
• Push up and down on the idler arm to check for excessive movement.
• Check the power steering hoses when the wheel is fully turned to make sure they are not binding. Also check the hoses for leakage around their fittings.
Frame
• Locate the two frame brackets that secure the rear of the lower A-arms to the frame. These are prone to bending, cracking, breaking, and rusting.
• Check the frame underneath the engine for pothole or collision damage. This is usually the first part of the frame that is affected by road contact.
• Look for any sign of damage repair on the two front frame extensions. These are the first to get damaged in a frontal impact.
• Check the frame underneath both doors for any damage from road impacts or collisions.
• To see if the frame shows any signs of rust damage, use a flat-blade screwdriver to poke the metal and verify its integrity. Also reach around the frame behind the rear of the doors to feel the top of the frame for any rust or damage.
• Be sure the exhaust pipes are secure and not hitting any part of the frame.
Engine
• Check the starter bolts for tightness.
• Inspect the rubber on both motor mounts.
• If the fuel pump and lower hose are covered with grease the front main seal might be leaking.
• Check the engine pan gasket for leaks and use a flashlight to inspect the bottom of the valve cover gaskets, which are prone to leakage.
• Have a mechanic remove the spark plugs and test each cylinder for pressure. The target is 160 to 180 and the readings should all be very close.
Rear Suspension
• Pull on the top and bottom of the rear wheels to check for bearing clearance.
• Look at the condition of the rear shock absorber rubbers.
• Check to see if the front of the rear trailing arms have adjustment shims.
• Inspect the overall condition of the trailing arms for excessive rust or damage.
Differential and Springs
• Watch the movement of the yoke on the differential while an assistant pulls back and forth on the lower part of each wheel. Movement should be less than 1/8 inch. Worn yokes are a common problem on C3 Corvettes.
• The front of the differential is secured to the frame with one bolt and a rubber cushion. This cushion should not be missing or cracked, as it will cause a clunk when shifting the car.
• Inspect the condition of the spring and the shackle bolts, washers, and rubber bushings at the end of the spring.
• Check to see if any leaks are coming from the differential.
Underside Checks
• Use a flashlight and check underneath both front fenders to determine if the fiberglass has been repaired.
• Pull on the inner fenderwells to see if they have broken loose from the fender.
Passenger Compartment
• Remove the two lower front side vent covers and use a flashlight to determine if any rust has accumulated in the lower wells around the body mount. If rust is present this indicates a leaking windshield frame.
• Check the operation of all the instruments by starting the engine to make sure they are in operating condition.
• Turn on the heater and fan.
• Turn on the A/C and fan and test both inside and outside air selections. The duct temperature should be 45 to 50 degrees F for inside air with maximum fan. Blend the heat while the A/C is running to make sure the heater door is working correctly.
• Test the radio and speakers for volume, static, and clarity.
• If equipped, test the power windows, seat, and door locks for proper operation.
• If equipped, test the tilt-telescopic steering wheel.
• If equipped, test the cruise control during a road test.
The steel birdcage serves as the structure that holds the body together. This structure is prone to rust and can be very expensive to repair. The windshield frame is hollow and if rust has penetrated around the upper frame it drips water and pools around the No. 2 body mount (see illustration on page 161). The best way to check this condition is to remove the driver and passenger lower cowl panels and visually inspect them.
A rusty birdcage is the most difficult to spot because it is covered with body panels and window trim. Removing the inside lower kick panels on the driver and passenger sides of the car is a quick way to find out if the birdcage windshield frame area has been leaking and shows rust. Because repairing the birdcage is time consuming and expensive, it’s best to find a car with an undamaged unit.
Before you begin any disassembly, write down any flaws you discovered during the buying process. This includes visual flaws that were spotted such as in the birdcage, frame, leaks, noises, and mechanical or accessory parts that don’t work.
It’s important to take detailed photographs and make notes of any body flaws that the car might have. Inspect the body from every angle. It is best to do this in shaded light, which shows the flaws much better than in bright sunlight. Include photos of the front/rear, interior, engine bay, and both sides of the car so you have a complete assessment of the car’s condition.
When performing your visual inspection of a Corvette, look closely for panel fit and gaps between various panels such as fenders and doors. These are all areas that need to be corrected during your restoration if you decide to buy that particular car.
If you have access to a lift, take detailed photos of the underside of the car including the exhaust, engine, rear end, and any exposed frame parts. This is a good time to do a visual inventory of damage on the underside of the body and look for repaired fiberglass damage.
This detailed inspection gives a quick reference when creating a “to do” list and is helpful during reassembly. Placing the photos in an album makes a handy catalog to refer to during reassembly. This catalog also lets you show potential paint/ body shops the condition of the car during your selection process.
This is also a great time to begin separating the restoration project plan into four major areas: disassembly, body/paint, frame/mechanical, and reassembly. Disassembly and reassembly are the smallest and least costly of the four restoration areas. However, correct disassembly can save thousands of dollars over the entire project.
As part of your project planning, it is important to locate a safe and secure storage location for all the parts you are going to remove. A variety of small plastic food containers with lids, and industrial-grade plastic bags work well. Use large storage bins to hold groups of bags, and wood pallets for large items such as exhaust pipes. This system allows the removed items to remain inventoried and safe until they are reinstalled.
Several storage options are available. A large storage space at your home, such as a shed, trailer, or garage, suffices. Another option is to rent a commercial storage unit. A third option is the mechanical shop you select for the heavy part of your restoration; it might be willing to rent some storage space for your parts.
When beginning the disassembly process, it is very important to tag and bag every part. The best way to do this is to use plastic trays, plastic containers, and food storage bags. Remember to use a marker to write on every container to indicate what location the parts were removed from. This makes reassembly much easier.
Whatever option you choose make sure the area is secure, clean, dry, and easily accessible. My preference is to secure my parts where I have total control of them at all times, as they are very expensive to replace.
Having the correct tools to do any job saves time and aggravation. Before beginning, check your tool inventory. Safety should always be the top priority when undertaking a project like this. Always wear safety glasses and disposable industrial-grade rubber gloves. Heavy shoes should be worn when removing heavy parts such as the engine, brakes, or suspension components to protect your feet. Use ear and eye protection when doing any high-speed grinding work. Work gloves are also recommended if pulling heavy components off the car. Large tool sets that include many of the tools on the following list can be purchased for a big savings. Sears Tool Club, Lowe’s, or Home Depot usually offer a lifetime warranty on their tools; these are good places to compare prices and quality.
Art Dorsett and his company, Van Steel Corvette Parts and Service, specialize in disassembling and restoring Corvettes of all generations, especially C3s. Throughout this book, I lean heavily on Art and his staff’s expertise. I asked Art to assemble the following basic list of tools that he commonly uses to disassemble and reassemble a C3 Corvette.
Ratchets
• Include all of the three basic ratchet sizes for this project: 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 inch
It is always safer to store removed parts at your home or a rented storage space so that you have total control over them at all times. Many of the removed parts are very expensive to replace. Taking time to organize a safe storage location saves time and money when reassembly is started.
This moisture encounter plus tool is made by Tramex. It is the perfect device to determine if one of your fiberglass body panels is contaminated with oil or water. A panel that is contaminated and then painted will blister and bubble after several weeks, which will require it to be repainted.
Having the correct tool on hand makes the project go much faster and easier. A good assortment of air-driven grinders, ratchets, and impact guns such as these helps break stubborn bolts loose quickly.
Sockets
• All SAE and metric socket sets should have 6- and 12-point grips
• SAE sockets, both regular and deep well
1/4-inch-drive: 1/4 to 9/16 inch
3/8-inch-drive: 7/16 to 1 inch
1/2-inch-drive: 7/16 to 1⅛ inch
• Metric sockets, both regular and deep well
1/4-inch-drive: 3 to 13 mm
3/8-inch-drive: 5 to 22 mm
1/2-inch-drive: 5 to 22 mm
Internal and External Torx Wrenches
• T-15 to T-55
Hex Key Wrenches
• Standard, .05 to 3/8 inch; Metric, 1.5 to 8 mm
Screwdrivers
• A selection of Phillips and flathead screwdrivers from 2- to 12-inch lengths
Pliers
• A variety of 6- to 9-inch lengths including long-nose, high-leverage, channel lock, and cutter pliers
Combination Wrenches
• 6- and 12-point
Standard, 3/8 to 1 inch
Metric, 10 to 22 mm
Adjustable Wrenches
• One each in 6-, 8-, and 10-inch sizes
Hammer/Mallet
• One 5-pound hammer/mallet is all that is necessary
Long-Handled Floor Jack/Safety Stands
• 1.5- to 2-ton capacity is sufficient
• Four 2- to 3-ton safety stands
Electronic Torque Wrench
• 1/2-inch drive, adjustable from
20 to 200 ft-lbs
Tap and Die Set
• National coarse and fine
• Metric
• Bolt removal kit
Sandblast Cabinet
• A small portable unit is good for cleaning rust and grime off small parts
Penetrating Oil
• Good for removing rust-encrusted parts
Trim Removal Tools
• Window and trim removal reveal tool
• Window crank and door lock removal tool
Optional
• Air compressor (4 hp or bigger) with 14.8 SCFM at 90–175 max psi
• Portable low-height roller stool
• Air impact guns
sizes: 3/8 and 1/2 inch
types: air gun, air ratchet, air cutoff wheel, air grinder
• Black impact sockets
SAE 3/8-inch-drive from 5/16 to 13/16 inch and 1/2-inch-drive from 5/16 to 1¼ inch
Metric 3/8-inch-drive from 7 to 19 mm and 1/2-inch-drive from 9 to 32 mm
• Rental hydraulic engine lift (cherry picker)
• Sawzall reciprocal saw
• Small acetylene torch
