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Enfield Rifles FdH


U.S. Model 1917 Enfield rifle, caliber 30-06. This rifle has a 26” barrel, is 46.3” overall, and weighs about 9.5 pounds. As originally made, the M1917 barrels had five grooves and a left-hand rifling twist of 1:10”. Many 1917s were later fitted with two- and four-groove barrels.

Part I

1917 U.S. Enfield

PROFESSIONAL AND AMATEUR gunsmiths have long been familiar with the Model 1917 Enfield action. It has been used widely in recent years to build custom sporting rifles in both standard 30-06 head-sized rimless and belted magnum cartridges. A large and rugged action “as issued,” it is also a homely one. Fortunately, however, it is receptive to much alteration and remodeling.

When the United States entered WWI in 1917, it was short of rifles, and immediate plans had to be made to acquire more. In 1913 British Ordnance developed a new Mauser-type turnbolt action for a 276-caliber rimless cartridge. When England became involved in the war, development work on this cartridge was dropped and the action was modified to handle their standard military round, the 303 British rimmed cartridge. Rather than begin production of this rifle (which was designated the Pattern 1914) in 1914, the British gave contracts to three firms in the United States to make them.

These firms were Winchester, Remington and Eddystone. When the British found that they could produce enough of the older Lee-Enfield rifles, they canceled the contracts in 1916. Thus, at the time the United States entered the war there were three large plants tooled up to make a military rifle. With this in mind, someone (it is believed that Remington initiated this conversion) got busy and redesigned the Pattern 1914 action to handle the 30-06 cartridge. In 1917 new contracts were awarded to these three firms to make the new rifle, officially called the “U.S. Rifle, Cal. .30, Model 1917.”

Production Figures

Production of this rifle ended in these plants in November, 1918. According to reliable sources, Winchester produced 545,511, Remington about 545,541 and about 1,181,908 were made at Eddystone, all at an average cost to the government of $26 each. Of the total, perhaps some 80,000 were unassembled rifles to be used for spare parts. These figures reveal that Eddystone made more than Remington and Winchester combined, which accounts for the predominance of the Eddystone.

Markings and Serial Numbers

The model designation, manufacturer’s name and serial number were stamped on the receiver ring in four lines as follows:

U.S.

MODEL OF 1917

EDDYSTONE (Or Winchester or Remington)

(serial number)

The receiver is the only part serial numbered. Winchester M1917 Enfields were serial numbered from number 1 on, and it is believed this practice was also followed by Remington and Eddystone.

Action Construction

For a military action, the 1917 Enfield was exceptionally well made and finished. Few machine marks can be found under the Parkerized finish. The bolt is made unusually smooth and even, the result a slick-operating action.

The receiver and bolt are machined from 3½ percent nickel steel forgings, a very strong alloy similar in composition to the nickel steel used in many 1903 Springfield actions.

Most of the receiver bottom is flat. The recoil lug, located at the front of the flat bottom, is about 1” wide and ” deep. The extreme front end of the receiver is round while the rest of the receiver ring is flat on the bottom and round on top. On the right side of the receiver ring there is a raised rectangular portion to strengthen the receiver over the inside mill cut for the extractor. The ” gas-escape vent hole, in the center of this raised portion, is in line with the extractor hook and extractor cut in the barrel. The barrel threads are square. The barrel breech is coned, with part of this funnel edge milled out for the extractor. The front of the bolt breeches nearly against the barrel when the action is closed.

The rear part of the receiver, normally called the bridge, is made to house and protect the folding aperture rear sight. Integral “ears” or “wings” project upward on either side to protect the folding sight components. Although without windage adjustment, this sight was considered one of the best military sights designed up to that time.

The front of the bridge has grooves, these forming a guide for loading the magazine via Springfield five-shot stripper clips. The bolt has two large front locking lugs. The right (bottom) lug is solid; the left (top) lug is divided by a narrow slit for the ejector to pass through when the action is opened. The bolt face is partially recessed, surrounding about two-thirds of the cartridge rim. When the bolt is closed, the open, unrecessed segment is toward the left, exactly opposite the gas vent.

The bolt handle has a double bend backward, which positions the hollowed grasping ball about ¾” back of the base of the bolt. The bolt handle, of the “low” type, need never be altered if the action is to be fitted with a low-mounted scope. When the bolt is closed the heavy base of the bolt handle fits into a deep notch in the receiver, acting as a safety lug. The rear of the bolt handle base does not touch the receiver (which is as it should be), making it a safety lug rather than a third locking lug.

The upper or left end of the bolt handle base is tapered to the rear. When the bolt is opened, it contacts a matching surface inside the receiver bridge, providing positive primary extraction camming power.

The extractor is a long Mauser type attached to the bolt body by a collar in a recess in the body. A narrow lip in the front of the extractor engages a groove cut into the head of the bolt to force the extractor to move longitudinally with it. The extractor is designed to snap over a cartridge rim whether it is chambered via the magazine or singly loaded. Some extractors have a small hole in the hook recess to match the gas escape hole.

The bolt-stop follows M98 Mauser design and is positioned on the left rear of the receiver. It is securely held there by a screw through the rear end of the bolt-stop and through an integral stud on the receiver. A heavy spring, fitted lengthwise in the bolt-stop and rearward over a separate rest, keeps the bolt-stop against the receiver. Fitted inside the bolt-stop, and held there by the bolt-stop screw, is the ejector. The ejector is made with an integral spring leaf, which provides the tension to move its front end to the right when the bolt is opened. Backward travel of the bolt is halted when its left locking lug comes in contact with that part of the bolt-stop which projects through a hole in the receiver. A grasping lip on the front of the bolt-stop lets it be swung out for bolt removal.

The simple striker mechanism consists of a bolt sleeve threaded into the rear of the bolt, a coil mainspring, a striker (firing pin), and a cocking piece. The cocking piece is held to the striker by double interrupted rings engaging the two parts. Ordnance specifications called for a firing pin protrusion of not over .068”, and not under .058” minimum, and a firing-pin hole no larger than .085”.


U.S. Model 1917 Enfield action.

Two gas-escape holes in the front of the bolt direct escaping gases into the left side locking raceway.

Primary striker cocking occurs on raising the bolt handle, when the forward end of the cocking piece engages a shallow cam in the rear of the bolt. Full cocking takes place on the forward travel and closing of the bolt, after it has been fully opened. The shallow cam and the short initial rearward movement given to the striker when the bolt handle is raised are safety features which prevent the action from firing a cartridge unless the bolt is locked sufficiently to hold it closed. The cocking piece is engaged when the bolt is open, and also positions and prevents rotation of the bolt sleeve.

The rugged rotary safety, just to the rear of the bolt handle, is built into the tang of the receiver. With the action closed and cocked, tipping the safety lever back locks the striker and bolt. The striker is locked back, and pulled back off the sear, by the end of the safety system engaging a notch cut into the side of the cocking piece. The bolt is locked closed by a pin pushed forward by the safety into a hole in the base of the bolt handle.

The trigger is a common double-stage military type. The long first stage of the pull moves the sear almost all the way off the cocking piece, the final short pull fully releasing it. An added safety feature, built into the sear, is a pin projecting upward through a hole in the receiver. Only when the bolt is fully closed, which places a notch cut into the body of the bolt directly over the pin, can the trigger be pulled to release the striker.

The action is held in the stock by two guard screws, one at either end of the action, passing through holes in the trigger guard plate. Stock bushings, through which the guard screws pass, provide proper spacing between trigger guard and receiver. The magazine box is a separate unit fabricated by riveting two flat thin pieces of sheet steel, which form the sides, to the thicker ends. The top of the front end projects up into the magazine-opening well to become part of the loading ramp. The magazine box is securely positioned between the trigger guard and receiver, and is partly recessed into these parts. The magazine-well opening in the bottom of the receiver is milled to leave lips for holding the cartridges in place in the magazine. The milled steel floorplate, detachable from the trigger guard, is held in place by projecting lips engaging recesses in the trigger guard, and is secured by a small spring-loaded latch in the guard just to the rear of the magazine box opening. Depressing this latch with a pointed tool, through a hole in the rear of the floorplate, allows the latter to be moved back and released.


Model 1917 Enfield action open.


Top side view of Model 1917 Enfield action.


Left side view of Model 1917 Enfield action.

The trigger-guard bow is egg shaped, the opening larger in front. The face of the curved trigger is grooved. The milled magazine follower and the follower spring are the conventional Mauser type. The magazine holds six cartridges in a staggered column. When the magazine is empty the follower rises in front of the bolt, when the action is opened, preventing the bolt from being closed. All action parts are made of steel; there are no stampings.

Disassembly

To remove the bolt, grasp the front edge of the bolt-stop with the thumb, swing it outward, raise the bolt handle and pull the bolt out. To remove the floorplate, insert a pointed tool into the hole in the rear of the plate, depress the tool while at same time pulling it to the rear. This releases the floorplate, follower spring and follower.

To remove the barrel and action from the stock, first remove the upper and middle barrel bands and handguard, then remove the front and rear guard screws. Lift the barrel and receiver from stock, then pull out the trigger guard. The barrel is threaded very tightly into the receiver and no attempt should be made to remove it unless proper equipment is on hand.

Disassemble the bolt by grasping the bolt body in the right hand and, with a tool (such as a small screwdriver) in the other hand, pull the cocking piece back, rotating it and the bolt sleeve counterclockwise about one-half turn. Unscrew the bolt sleeve further until the cocking piece drops down, then repeat the process until the entire striker assembly is removed.

To disassemble the striker mechanism, place the firing pin tip on a hard surface and grasp the bolt sleeve very firmly; pull the bolt sleeve down as far as it will go, then turn the cocking piece one-quarter turn in either direction and lift it off.

To remove the extractor, turn it on the bolt to cover the gas-escape vents, then push it forward to disengage it from the extractor collar. The collar can then be spread apart and removed from the bolt.

Turn out the bolt-stop screw and remove the bolt-stop assembly. Push out the sear pin and remove the trigger/sear assembly. With a small screwdriver turn out the safety-lock holder screw and remove the holder. Swing the safety back, then pull the safety out, after which the safety lock plunger and spring can be removed. Reassemble in reverse order. In reassembling the safety, first insert the safety lock plunger spring, then the lock plunger into the hole in the receiver. Using a screwdriver, turn the lock plunger so its V surface is in line with the hole, then push the lock plunger forward and, at the same time, firmly grasp the front end of the plunger with a pliers. While holding it, remove the screwdriver, insert the safety and release the pliers.

To assemble the bolt-stop, with the bolt forward and the handle raised, lay the action on a bench with the left side up. Position the bolt-stop spring rest on the receiver. Insert the ejector in the bolt-stop then insert the bolt-stop spring, pressing the hooked end of this spring into the front end of the bolt-stop until it is level with the latter. Position the assembled bolt-stop in place on the receiver, turning the rest to align the groove for the bolt-stop spring. Using a screwdriver handle or similar tool, firmly press the rear end of the bolt-stop against the receiver, then insert and turn in the bolt-stop screw.


Close-up of rear part of Model 1917 Enfield action showing how bolt handle forms safety lug by engaging a deep notch in the receiver (arrow).

Strong and Weak Points

The only really weak part in this action is the ejector. It is a leaf spring which usually breaks off and leaves the ejector useless.

Not a design fault, but rather a construction fault, is that some of the 1917 receivers develop hairline cracks. By no means a common occurrence, it is common enough to be of some concern to owners of these actions. The cracks usually appear some place around the receiver ring, often starting at the front edge of the receiver and extending rearward in an erratic pattern. Although Winchester and Remington receivers have been found with cracks, the Eddystone-made receivers are by far the most frequent offenders. It is believed that many of these receivers were given a faulty heat-treatment, the metal thereby becoming too hard and brittle. Not easily spotted, the cracks are most often detected when the action is polished and reblued. They can often be detected with the naked eye, or by carefully examining the receiver ring with a hand magnifier.

Another good way to detect cracks is to dunk the receiver in gasoline for a moment. If a crack (or cracks) is present, the gasoline will seep from it after the rest of the receiver has dried. Cracked receivers are generally not repairable, so they should not be used.

While cracks may well be the result of improper heat treatment, they’re most frequently found on receivers from which the original barrel has been removed. Barrels were fitted extremely tight in these actions, some tighter than others. It is possible that some of the receivers cracked when the barrels were originally installed, but I believe most of the cracks occur when the original very tight barrel is removed, for unscrewing a tight barrel puts a lot of strain on the receiver.

The cock-on-closing feature is often considered poor design, but that’s a matter of opinion. I’ve fired many shots through these actions, but I’ve never found this feature objectionable, certainly not to the point where I would spend time and money to change it.

Others have condemned the long striker fall, the seemingly slow lock time, but again I’ve had no occasion to complain about it. The same goes for the double-stage trigger pull which, if one learns to use it, is almost without fault. At any rate, if any of these features are objectionable there are accessories commercially available to change them. Several firms make single-stage trigger mechanisms for this rifle while two firms make speed-lock and cock-on-opening firing mechanisms.

If it is desired to incorporate all these changes, then installing the complete Dayton-Traister trigger and speed-lock mechanisms seems to be the best solution.

Round-nosed bullets pose a feeding problem, and many cures have been tried. The simplest method is to install a device, the Tru-Feed Kit, made by Dayton- Traister.

Although I’ve fired several thousand shots with rifles based on the 1917 Enfield action I never experienced a ruptured case head or primer, which might have allowed powder gases to get into the action. Had a serious rupture occurred, I most likely would have got some of this gas in my face, for the design doesn’t allow much gas escape through the action other than toward the rear. Drilling a hole in the left receiver wall, opposite the rear vent hole in the bolt, would have helped. Eliminating the two grooves on the striker shoulder would also have helped stop any gases passing back along the mainspring to escape past the cocking piece, and would instead, tend to deflect the gases out of the vent hole in the bolt at this point.

Gunsmithing the 1917 Enfield

Besides installing the above mentioned accessories, the 19l7 Enfield action can be “gunsmithed” no end.

Through the years these rifles were available a great many articles were written on their remodeling and conversion, and all of the major gunsmithing books have covered the subject in detail, so I’ll just skim over this part.


Underside of Model 1917 Enfield bolt showing: (A) extractor, (B) dual-opposed locking lugs, (C) two gas-escape holes.

The unsightly part of this action is the receiver bridge and the protruding sight ears. Removing these ears and rounding the bridge is generally the first thing the amateur gunsmith wants to change. The usual instructions suggest grinding the bridge down to be the same contour as the receiver ring, which is OK—but that still leaves a lot of metal where it is not needed. Top scope mounts for the remodeled 1917 Enfield are usually made for a rear bridge that’s the same diameter as the front ring. Be this as it may, I much prefer to grind the bridge down much lower, or to duplicate the bridge on the FN Mauser action, which permits using mounts recommended for that action. At the same time I like to remove all metal directly over the base of the bolt handle, as well as removing metal occupied by the bolt-stop spring rest, leaving only about a ” metal ledge directly behind the bolt-stop. The rear end of the bolt-stop spring can be heated and bent down to ride on this ledge after cutting a bit off the end of the spring. All this eliminates considerable weight and the entire action looks much trimmer. The bridge can be further trimmed to eliminate the clip guide slots.


The author’s “Baby Enfield” action and the rifle built around it.Yes, this action was once a full-sized 1917 Enfield. It is now just 7.25” long and weighs 2 pounds. Customizing consisted of cutting a section out of the receiver and bolt and welding the sections together again, making and fitting a new bolt handle, removing the safety parts and these alterations: the tang where the safety was located; the receiver bridge to FN Mauser contour; the bolt-stop; the bolt sleeve; the bolt and cocking piece so the striker cocks on opening, and making and installing an adjustable single-stage trigger mechanism. (Above) The “Baby Enfield” rifle chambered for the 219 Improved Zipper cartridge. The 22” barrel has a .224” groove diameter and a 1:14” rifling twist, a muzzle diameter of .700 ” and weight 3 lbs., 6 oz. The trim walnut stock weighs just 30 oz. and, with the Lyman 5A scope, the complete rifle tips and scales at 8 pounds. This rifle, highly accurate, has accounted for many varmints since it was made in 1942.


If one doesn’t like the 1917’s “dog leg” bolt handle, it can be heated and straightened out and, with some filing, it can be made to look like the old 720 Remington bolt handle. Or a new bolt handle can be lathe-made and welded on in place of the original.

Another odd feature of this action is the crooked front end of the trigger guard plate; unless this is changed the rifle will have a definite belly. Usual practice is to straighten the guard plate by cutting off the front tang, welding it back on and dressing it down so it is straight with the rest of the guard plate. After this the magazine box is cut down so the original front guard screw can be used again. This reduces magazine capacity to five. So far as I know, no firm has ever made a replacement hinged floorplate/magazine/ trigger guard for the 1917 Enfield rifle, but a Model 1903 Springfield guard can be installed. If this is done the stock can be made as slim around the action as on the Springfield.

Springfield guard screw hole spacing is not correct for the Enfield action, but can be best taken care of by filling the rear guard screw hole with weld and drilling a new hole slightly farther to the rear.

Most Enfield receivers have a deep oblong recess milled in the top of the bridge, rather unsightly looking on a finished sporter. After the sight ears have been removed and the bridge dressed down nearly to the desired point, this recess can be filled. A simple method is to use glass bedding compound dyed blue/black. If the inside of the recess is cleaned thoroughly and the sides nicked a bit, the compound will become a permanent part of the receiver. To advance this idea a bit further, a piece of steel can be concealed in the compound in case an extra scope mount screw hole is needed in this area. The recess could also be filled with steel weld; preferably this should be done by partly filling the recess with a piece of steel and then filling in with electric weld.

Rebarreling

The 1917 Enfield was made for the 30-06 cartridge, consequently it is equally suitable for other cartridges of 30-06 length and head diameter. Therefore no changes need be made in this action when rebarreled to commercial cartridges such as the 25-06, 270, 280, and 35 Whelen. This action is also most suitable for cartridges slightly shorter than the 30-06, and without any changes it can handle the 6mm, 257 Roberts, 6.5x57, 7x57mm, 8x57mm and 9x57mm.

Even such shorter cartridges as the 243 or 308 will usually feed quite well from the magazine into the chamber. The rear and/or the front of the magazine box could be blocked off for the shorter cartridges but this is not usually necessary unless 100 percent flawless feeding is required.

After enlarging the recess in the bolt face and shortening the extractor hook, this action is quite ideal for the family of short belted magnum cartridges, such as the 264, 7mm, 300, 338 and 458 Magnums. If, in addition to the bolt face alteration, the magazine is made longer, this action is also suitable for the longer belted magnum cartridges—the 300 and 375 H&H Magnums and others. It is, however, always necessary to file down the magazine-well lips to make the magazine well wider when used with belted magnums. I’ve used the 1917 Enfield action for a wide variety of cartridges, from the 22-250 to the 450 Magnum, but because it is a big action I consider it best for such big bore heavy-recoiling cartridges as the 35 Whelen, 338 Magnum and 458 Magnum.

Although it has been nearly 50 years since the two million-plus 1917 actions and rifles were made, they are still very common.

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