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Fabrics

There is a huge range of fabrics available for dressmaking, crafts, and soft furnishings. Which to use and when depends on the type of project, whether you want something bold and dramatic or classic and understated. Most important is to use the right type and weight of fabric. Following is a list of the common fabric types and their uses.

Selection of lightweight fabrics

LIGHTWEIGHT FABRICS

Many different fabrics are available in lightweight varieties, including cottons, voiles, linens, silks, woolens, and poly cotton blends. Most are stable, woven fabrics that are easy to sew. Cotton, linen, silk, and wool are made from natural fibers, which are often mixed with man-made fibers to create fabrics that are stronger and more wrinkle-resistant.

Use all-purpose thread and finish seams with overcast stitch, zigzag stitch, or pinking shears. Pure cottons and linens can be pressed with a hot iron. For silks, wools, and mixed-fiber fabrics, always use a press cloth and medium to hot iron. Use a 10–12 (70–80) universal needle.

Common fabric types

Batiste – Lightweight, soft, and sheer, batiste can be made in cotton, wool, or synthetic fibers. Used for underlinings, quilt backing, and heirloom sewing.

Chambray – Similar in appearance to denim, chambray is normally cotton, although sometimes mixed with other fibers. Used for shirts and childrenswear.

Cheesecloth – A cotton fabric, loosely woven with a slightly crinkled surface. Used for crafts, casual gypsy-style tops, and other fashion items.

Chiffon – A light, drapable sheer fabric that can be pure silk or synthetic. Used for blouses, over-skirts, and wraps.

Cottons, polyester/cotton – Very versatile, easy to sew, and available in a huge color range, both in plains and prints. Used for summer clothing, craft projects, and quilting.

Cotton lawn – Lightweight and crisp to handle. Used for christening gowns, heirloom stitching, and linings.

Eyelet embroidery (broderie anglaise) – Traditionally a cotton fabric, it has a light self-colored pattern which incorporates stitched eyelets. Used for childrenswear, summer tops, full skirts, and nightwear.

Gingham – A check fabric, usually cotton. Used for dresses, blouses, craft projects, and café-style curtains.

Georgette – A sheer fabric, similar to chiffon but made with crêpe yarns for a more dense finish. Used for blouses and wraps.

Linen – Easily wrinkled, linens can be very lightweight (handkerchief linen) or medium-weight when mixed with other fibers (linen blends) which makes them more wrinkle-resistant and stable. Handkerchief linen is used for tops and table linen. Linen and linen blends are used for smart suits, dresses, trousers, and jackets.

Muslin – A plain woven, inexpensive cream-colored cotton fabric. Different weights are available. Used for quilting or making toiles (test garments).

Muslin gauze – A lightweight, plain weave fabric. Used for crafts, lightweight curtains, and interfacings.

Organza/organdie – Slightly crisper than chiffon, organza is also sheer and often made of polyester or silk. Used for wraps and crisp blouses.

Polyester, polyester crêpe de chine, viscose, rayon – Man-made, these fabrics can range from light to medium weight. They look and feel like natural fiber fabrics, but with greater strength, wrinkle-resistance, and wearability. However, polyesters do fray easily so seam finishing is crucial. Used in the same way as silks, cottons, and wools, depending on weight.

Poplin – Slightly heavier and crisper than cotton lawn, poplin is woven with a fine horizontal rib. Used for summerwear and childrenswear.

Seersucker – Lightweight, usually cotton, seersucker has alternating stripes that are puckered and crinkled. Used for lightweight jackets and tops.

Silks – There are many silk varieties, including crêpe de chine, raw silk, shantung, thai silk, silk noil, china silk, polyester, viscose, and rayon silks. Raw silks, shantung, and noils have some surface texture and shading. Treat as a pile fabric and use “with nap” layouts. Silks can range from light to medium weight. Used for dressmaking and luxury soft furnishings. China silk is used for linings.

Taffeta/moiré taffeta – Originally made from silk, taffetas can also be polyester. They have a crisp finish and shiny surface. Moiré taffeta has a “watermark” pattern. Used for eveningwear, wraps, and bridalwear.

Tulle – Made from silk, nylon, or other man-made fibers, tulle is a fine net. Used for bridal veils and fancy-dress costumes.

Voile – A sheer, lightweight plain weave fabric, some have iridescent fibers for added shimmer. Used for lightweight drapes and summer wraps.

Linen and linen-mix fabrics

Eyelet embroidery (broderie anglaise)

MEDIUM-WEIGHT FABRICS

These include fabrics suitable for dressmaking, craft, and soft furnishings such as wools, wool mixes, heavier silks, satins, and cottons with textured weave. Most are easy-to-sew, stable woven fabrics.

Use all-purpose thread and finish seams with overcast stitch, zigzag stitch, or bound seams. Alternatively, sew with special seams such as flat fell or French (see Seams). Always use a press cloth and steam. Allow to cool before handling. Use size 12 (80) needles.

Selection of medium-weight fabrics

Common fabric types

Angora, alpaca – Luxury soft wool fabrics: angora comes from goat hair and alpaca from llama. Angora is often mixed with other fibers to create a woolen cloth. Used for knitwear and woolen coating.

Challis – Woven with a crêpe yarn to give an all-over crinkled surface. Wool challis is a luxury fabric, it breathes well, and wrinkles very little. Often printed with paisley or floral designs. Used for dresses, jackets, and A-line or full skirts.

Chintz – A cotton fabric that is closely woven and has a glazed finished. Used for crafts, table linen, and soft furnishings.

Corduroy – Has a sheared rib surface and can be pure cotton or a mix of fibers. Rib size can vary from narrow baby cord to thick elephant cord. Use “with nap” layouts. Used for trousers, jackets, vests, etc.

Crêpe back satin – Also known as satin back crêpe, this is a double-sided fabric with twisted crêpe weave on one side and a smooth, shiny satin on the other. Used for evening wear, bridal wear, smart trousers, jackets, and dresses.

Crêpe back satin

Damask – Traditionally made from linen or cotton on a jacquard loom to produce a self pattern. Used for table linen and home furnishings.

Denim – A twill weave fabric that is now available in many different colors and weights. The very distinctive twill weave is created by a colored warp and white weft. Used for trousers, jackets, and skirts, depending on the weight.

Denim fabrics

Drill – A strong twill weave and heavier-weight cotton. Canvas is a similar fabric. Used for outdoor and hardwearing items.

Dupion – Has a thick uneven texture created by two fibers of silk woven together. Can also be made from synthetic fibers. Used for lightweight jackets, dresses, and tops.

Flannel – Can be plain or twill weave, both having a soft brushed surface on one or both sides. Used for jackets, suits, skirts, and trousers.

Gabardine – A close twill weave gives the distinctive surface pattern. Made from a variety of fibers and wool blends, it is water-repellent and hardwearing. Used for suits, trousers, skirts, jackets, and coats.

Satin/duchesse satin – A high sheen, smooth fabric. Use “with nap” layout to prevent unwanted shading. Duchesse satin has a very high luster. Used for bridal and evening wear.

Wool crêpe – Has a twisted weave which creates surface texture. Different weights and varieties are available, better qualities are more wrinkle-resistant. Crêpe can shrink when laundered, so pre-shrink before cutting out. Used for suits, tailored skirts and trousers, jackets, and dresses.

HEAVYWEIGHT FABRICS

Many fabric types have heavyweight varieties, such as woolens, tweeds, bouclés, and fleece. Many also have a one-way sheen or pile, such as cashmere, so always use the “with nap” layout. Use a press cloth and minimal steam, and press from the wrong side whenever possible. For very fluffy, hairy fabrics, use a towel as a pressing surface to prevent the pile flattening when pressed. Trim the pile from the seam allowances to reduce bulk. Use lining fabrics for facings to avoid unnecessary bulk at collars, cuffs, etc. Use size 10–12 (70–80) universal needles and medium- to heavyweight interfacings. Use sew-in interfacings on pile fabrics.

Selection of heavyweight fabrics

Common fabric types

Boiled wool – A felted knitted fabric. Create your own by machine washing and drying a loosely woven knit wool. Fabric will shrink by 40–50% in both directions. Used for jackets, fitted tops, and coats.

Bouclé – Can be knitted or woven, usually with a dull textural, thick, nobbly surface. Used for jackets, vests, and coats.

Bouclé fabric

Brocade – Incorporates a jacquard design of flowers, leaves, or geometric patterns to create a raised surface contrast or color. Used for bridal- or eveningwear and table linen.

Camel hair – Woven from the under hair of a camel, it is often mixed with sheep’s wool, for greater durability. It is a luxury fabric with a distinctive soft yellow color. Used for coats and jackets.

Cashmere – Made from the hair of Kashmir goats, this very fine, soft fabric is comfortable to wear. Cashmere can be knitted or woven. Used for coats, scarves, and sweaters.

Chenille – Soft to touch, with a raised surface texture. Good drapability but inclined to stretch. Fully interface with a fusible interfacing. Used for vests, jackets, loose tunic tops, and bathrobes.

Fleece – Very versatile and easy to sew, available in many colors and designs. Usually polyester, easy care and wear. Use a slightly larger-than-usual seam allowance to help feed the fabric evenly. No finishing needed. Used for jackets, vests, and coats.

Herringbone – Has a twill weave with a distinctive pattern like the backbone of a herring. Used for jackets, coats, and suits.

Mohair – Noted for its hairy texture, mohair is a plain weave fabric produced from the fibers of the angora goat. Frequently mixed with wool. Used for coats and jackets.

Tartan – A check, twill weave fabric with a specific check pattern. Careful layout needed to match fabric pattern. Used for kilts, skirts, and trousers.

Tartan fabrics

Tweed – Scottish, Irish, Harris, and Donegal – Traditional tweeds are thick woolen fabrics with a distinct woven pattern, named after the area of origin. Modern tweed is produced in a wider range of colors and designs. Used for coats, jackets, and smart suits.

Worsted – Made from tightly woven woolen yarns, it is hardwearing and usually high quality. Used for suits, coats, and upholstery.

KNIT FABRICS

Knits can be light- to heavyweight depending on the fabric type. They have definite stretch and can be used for close-fitting garments, sportswear, and casual wear. Use ballpoint needles and woven interfacings that can stretch. Stay stitch curved seams. Use stay tape at the neck and armholes to prevent unwanted stretch through prolonged wear. Use zigzag or stretch stitches that allow the fabric to stretch, even when sewn.

Selection of knit fabrics

Common fabric types

Cotton jersey – A fine, lightweight knit fabric which drapes well and is wrinkle-resistant. Orginally only cotton, many other soft-knitted fabrics are called jersey. Used for T-shirts, casual dresses, and sportswear.

Double knit – A very stable fabric, with vertical ribs on both sides. Available in a wide color range. Used for sportswear and casual suits.

Lycra and Spandex – Lycra is the trade name for Spandex. This man-made elastic fiber is often combined with other fibers to add stretch. Mixed with cotton it is matte, mixed with nylon it is shiny. Good for very close-fitting, active wear. Used for exercise wear, swimwear, and lingerie.

Lamé – Contains a mixture of metallic yarns and can be found in tricot-backed lamé and tissue lamé. It is a fragile fabric which tears easily. Avoid pressing. Used for loose tops, eveningwear, trims, and appliqués.

Stretch velour – Sometimes mixed with Lycra, velour is similar to velvet but with a tightly woven short cut pile. Used for sportswear, robes, and kaftans.

SPECIALITY FABRICS

These range from synthetic leathers and furs to natural fiber luxury fabrics. Many have piles and textured surfaces so always use “with nap” layout. Avoid pressing with steam, which can flatten the pile, and use a soft towel or velvet board as a pressing surface.

Selection of speciality fabrics

Common fabric types

Faux fur, fun fur – All have pile, some very long, others very short. Use “with nap” layouts and reduce bulk in the seam allowances by trimming the pile. Use a long stitch length and wider seam allowance to help evenly feed the fabric as it is sewn. Used for coats, jackets, and soft furnishings.

Synthetic suede/leather – Similar in look and feel to their natural counterparts, they rarely need finishing. Avoid pins, which will leave holes. Varieties include faux suede, suedette, ultra suede, leatherette, and pleather. Use a Teflon™ or coated presser foot to help glide over the fabric. Used for jackets, coats, skirts, trousers, and soft furnishings.

Velvet – A luxury fabric with a pile that can be made from cotton, silk, or man-made fibers. It can be light- or heavyweight. Varieties include panne, chiffon, velveteen, sculptured, and devoré. Devoré has a pattern created by parts of the pile being cut or burned away to reveal the backing. Velvet layers can “walk”; when sewing, use a walking foot or double pin and baste. Make sure the nap/pile is running in the same direction on all pieces. Used for eveningwear, jackets, trousers, and wraps.

HANDLING FABRICS

Having chosen the fabric, the next step is to cut it out, ready to sew. However, there are guidelines you should follow to ensure success. These include understanding and using the fabric grain and using special techniques to sew specialty fabrics.

Grain lines

All woven fabrics have a grain (diagram 1). The grain determines the amount of stretch in the fabric. The lengthwise or straight grain runs parallel with the selvages (side edges). It has the least stretch and therefore most garment pieces are placed with the lengthwise grain running vertically down the pattern piece. The crosswise grain is at right angles to the lengthwise grain and runs from selvage to selvage. It has slightly more give than the lengthwise grain, thus most pattern pieces are laid on the fabric with the crosswise grain going around the body. The bias is any diagonal direction. The true bias runs at a 45-degree angle to the lengthwise grain. Fabric is at its most stretchy along the bias.

Diagram 1: Grain lines

Sewing tips for specialty fabrics

General

• Use sharp shears to cut out. Use serrated shears when cutting silks or very fine fabrics. The serrated blades will grip the fabric as it is cut.

• Cut facings from lining fabric rather than heavy pile fabrics or those with beads and sequins.

• Change needles and pins frequently, particularly when sewing fabrics with metallic fibers which can blunt them easily.

• When working with flimsy fabrics, use lots of pins in the seam allowance to keep the layers together.

• When working with faux leather and suede, use weights or tin cans rather than pins which will leave holes.

• Stitch all seams in the direction of the nap whenever possible.

• Use sew-in interfacings.

• Follow the “with nap” layout to ensure any shading, pile, or pattern runs in the same direction.

• Always use a press cloth and press with care. Avoid pressing fabrics that have pre-pressed surface detail such as crushed velvets or pre-pleated fabric.

Checked and striped fabric

• Only use striped or checked fabrics with patterns that list them in the suggested fabrics.

• Make sure the fabric design matches across the garment by placing the paper pattern on a single layer of fabric. Turn the pattern piece over to cut the corresponding section, to get a left and a right piece.

• Make sure the balance marks and notches are in line across all the matching pattern pieces.

• When placing a pattern on fabric, ensure the most dominant stripe or check is not placed at the widest body point, such as the bust or hips. Match checks and stripes at the same point on the pattern pieces. Discount seam allowances when matching patterns.

• It is not possible for checks and stripes to match at all seams, so choose the most prominent places for pattern matching.

Beaded, sequinned fabrics

• Use a zipper foot to stitch beaded fabrics if the beading prevents straight stitching. Use a walking foot to sew heavy-pile fabric to help the layers feed evenly.

• To eliminate bulk in the seams, remove beading from the seam allowance by crushing the beads (use a little hammer or two spoons) and gently removing. Cut sequins in half and pull out.

• Avoid steam when working with beaded, sequin, or metallic fabrics.

Fabrics with pile

• Trim the pile from the seam allowance to reduce bulk. To hide seams in furs, working from the right side, use a pin to pick out the pile from the seam stitching.

• When pressing fabrics with a pile or heavy texture, use a soft towel as a pressing surface or velvet board.

Sheer, fancy fabrics

• On transparent, sheer, and lacy fabrics, use French seams, or double-stitched or rolled hems, which look good on both sides of the fabric. Alternatively, bind seams and hems with a fine bias tape or lace edging.

• Use a small hole throat plate when sewing very fine fabrics to prevent the fabric being pulled into the throat plate.

Stretch fabrics

• For close-fitting knit garments, cut the pattern pieces slightly smaller than the actual size.

• Use zigzag or stretch stitches to sew knit fabrics.

• To prevent knit fabric edges curling, stitch a double row of stitching and trim close to the outer row.

• Stay stitch or stay tape any areas that are not supposed to stretch, such as the neck, armhole, and shoulder seams.

FABRIC REQUIREMENTS

To determine the amount of fabric required when the fabric width of your chosen fabric differs from the pattern guidelines, use the chart below. Note that one-way designs, checks, and stripes may need more fabric than the recommended amount.

For example, if a pattern calls for 1 3/4 yd (1.60 m) of 45 in (115 cm)-wide fabric, and your chosen fabric is 36 in (90 cm) wide, go to the 45 in (115 cm) column, look down until you get to 1 3/4 yd (1.60 m) and then move along the row until you get to the 36 in (90 cm) column. The amount of fabric required at the different width will be noted in this column, i.e. 2 1/4 yd (2.10 m).