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Basic Malaysian Ingredients

Amaranth is a leafy vegetable also known as Chinese spinach. It may be substituted with normal spinach. The leaves are usually green although some varieties are red. Whatever the colour, all types of amaranth taste the same.

Bangkuang is the Malay name for jicama. It is a large root, shaped like a top. It has a thin beige skin covering crisp, white flesh. It tastes slightly sweet and juicy when young but becomes fibrous as it gets older.

Belachan, the Malay name for dried shrimp paste, is a dense mixture of fermented ground prawns that must be toasted before use—either wrapped in foil and dry-roasted or toasted over a gas flame on the back of a spoon.

Cardamom is a highly aromatic pod containing tiny black seeds. If whole pods are used, they should be removed before serving. If seeds are called for, lightly smash the pods and take out the seeds. Ground cardamom is sold in packets or small tins.

Chillies come in many sizes. Fresh green and red finger-length chillies are moderately hot. Tiny red, green or orange chilli padi (bird's eye chillies) are very hot. Dried chillies are usually deseeded, cut into lengths and soaked in warm water to soften before use. Chilli powder is made from ground dried chillies.

Coconut cream and coconut milk (santan) are used in many Asian desserts and curries. To obtain fresh coconut cream (which is normally used for desserts), grate the flesh of 1 coconut into a bowl (about 4 cups of grated coconut flesh), add ½ cup water and knead thoroughly a few times, then strain with a muslin cloth or cheese cloth. Thick coconut milk is obtained by the same method but by adding double the water to the grated flesh (about 1 cup instead of ½ cup). Thin coconut milk (which is used for curries rather than desserts) is obtained by pressing the coconut a second time, adding 1 cup of water to the same grated coconut flesh and squeezing it again. Although freshly pressed milk has more flavour, coconut cream and milk are now widely sold canned or in packets that are tasty and convenient.

Curry leaves are sold in sprigs with 8-15 small, green leaves and are so-called because they are used to flavour Indian curries.

Curry powder is made from various combinations of ground spices that generally include cumin, coriander seeds, turmeric and chilli. Different spice combinations are used for meat, poultry and fish. Curry powders used for meats and poultry contain stronger tasting spices such as cloves, cinnamon and black pepper. Fish curry powder usually omits these. Curry powders are sold in packets in supermarkets or mixed on the spot in wet market stalls.

Dried prawns are best kept refrigerated in a humid climate. Look for brightly-coloured, plump prawns. Soak for about 5 minutes to soften.

Dried black Chinese mushrooms must be soaked in hot water to soften before use, from about 15 minutes to 1 hour, depending on the thickness of the caps.

Galangal is an aromatic root used throughout most of Southeast Asia, known as lengkuas in Singapore and Malaysia, as laos in Indonesia and as kha in Thailand. The fresh root can be sliced and deep-frozen for future use.

Ghee is a rich clarified butter oil with the milk solids removed that is the main oil used in Indian cooking. Substitute with vegetable oil or butter.

Hay koh is also known as black prawn paste and is sometimes labelled petis. This thick black paste has a strong fishy taste and is used in some nonya dishes such as Penang Laksa and Rojak sauce.

Kaffir lime leaves (daun limau purut) are added whole to curries, or finely shredded and added to salads, giving them a citrusy flavour. Available frozen or dried in supermarkets.

Soy sauce is probably the best known Asian seasoning, brewed from soybeans, wheat and salt. It is available in several forms—light, dark and sweet. Light or "regular" soy sauce is used in most recipes in this book. It is saltier, less malty in flavour and thinner than black soy sauce. Soy sauce is available in bottles—in supermarkets and provision shops.

Kangkung is a highly nutritious leafy green vegetable also known as water spinach. Young shoots may be eaten raw as part of a salad platter or with a dip. The leaves and tender stems are often braised with chilli and spices.

Lap cheong, or sweet, dried Chinese sausages are perfumed with rose-flavoured wine. They are never eaten alone, but sliced and cooked with rice or other foods.

Lemongrass or citronella is a lemon-scented stem which grows in clumps. Each plant resembles a miniature leek. Use only the thicker bottom one third of the lemongrass stem, remove and discard the dry outer leaves, and use only the tender inner part of the stem. Lemongrass is available fresh in most supermarkets.

Palm sugar is made from the distilled juice of various palm fruits. Palm sugar varies in colour from golden to dark brown. It has a rich flavour similar to dark brown sugar or maple syrup, which makes a good substitute.

Pandanus leaves, also known as pandan leaves, are long, thin leaves used to impart a delicate fragrance and green hue to cakes and desserts. Substitute bottled pandanus essence or vanilla essence.

Plum sauce is a reddish-brown jam made from plums, vinegar and sugar. It is sold in bottles and small tins, and is normally eaten with strong meats such as roast duck.

Rice wine is often used in Chinese cooking, as a tenderizer, to blend flavours and to enhance taste. The best wine for Chinese cooking is hua diao rice wine, Japanese sake or mirin. A good alternative is dry sherry.

Sesame oil is extracted from sesame seeds that have been well toasted, producing a dark, dense, highly aromatic oil that can be used for marinades, sauces and soups, or as a table condiment. Its nutty, smokey flavour has become a hallmark of Chinese cuisine.

Star anise is an eight-pointed dried tree pod encasing shiny black seeds with a strong aniseed (licorice) flavour. The whole spice is used and discarded just before serving.

Tamarind pulp is the pulpy flesh surrounding hard, black seeds in the large, brown pods of the tamarind tree. It has a sour fruity taste, and is often used as a flavouring. It can be bought fresh or dried still in the pod, or in compressed blocks, with the seeds already removed. Tamarind juice adds a fruity sourness to sauces and soups. Soak 1 tablespoon tamarind pulp in 60 ml (¼ cup) water, then squeeze and strain the mixture to obtain the juice.

Tofu or bean curd comes in various form. Soft tofu is silky and smooth whereas firm tofu is denser and stronger in flavour. Tau kwa is firm tofu that has been compressed to expel most of the moisture. Tofu skin is the dried skin that forms on top of boiling soy milk; it is dried and sold in sheets as a wrapper, or as tau fu kee, a thick twisted skin added to meat or vegetable dishes. Small squares of fermented tofu are sold in jars. They are either red on the outside, if flavoured with chilli and spices, or creamy white and used as a condiment with rice porridge. Another type of bean curd sometimes added to braised dishes or soups is dried-fried bean curd, tau pok, which is generally sold in small rectangles. These are often sold on strings in Asia, but are elsewhere usually packed in plastic. They are light and spongy in texture, and need to be dipped briefly in boiling water to remove the oil before being used. Dried deep-fried bean curd has an almost nutty flavour and is particularly appreciated for the way it soaks up the liquid to which it is added. It can be kept refrigerated for at least two weeks.

Seasonings used in Bah Kut Teh (Pork Ribs Soup)

These seasonings are commonly sold in packets in supermarkets in Singapore and Malaysia, pre-measured for one batch of Bah Kut Teh, as per the recipe on page 21. They may be purchased individually in Chinese apothecary shops.

Codonopsis dangshen is a mild-tasting and sweet herb that is said to nourish the blood. It is sometimes used as a substitute for ginseng.

Solomon's seal or yu ju is a perennial herb with edible leaves and roots. The medicinal root comes in brittle, twisted pieces that are yellow or light brown. It is said to stimulate the appetite.

Ligusticum wallichii or chuan xiong is an herb whose leaves are used to expel intestinal parasites. The bitter roots of this herb are most often used in Chinese medicine to purify the blood and promote circulation.

Black dried dates or hei zao are the fruits of a spiny shrub. Dates are often used in Chinese medicine to nourish the blood.

Rehmannia glutinosa or gan di huang is a perennial herb. Its dried root is sold in large chunks and is said to promote muscle growth.

Chinese wolfberries or gou ji zi are sweet reddish fruits that are sold dried. They resemble tiny red currants and are said to nourish the liver and kidneys and improve vision.

Chicken Stock

1 teaspoon oil

1 clove garlic, smashed and chopped

½ chicken or 2 chicken carcasses chopped in half, skin and fats discarded

2½ litres (10 cups) water

1 medium onion, chopped

2 spring onions, chopped

4 thin slices ginger

10 black peppercorns

½ teaspoon salt

1 Put the oil in a large pan and heat. Add the garlic and stir-fry over low heat until golden brown. Lift out the garlic and discard, leaving the garlic-flavoured oil in the pan. Add the chicken and water. Bring to the boil then simmer uncovered for 10 minutes, skimming off any scum that rises to the surface.

2 Add all other ingredients, cover the pan and simmer very gently for 1 hour. Remove the lid and continue simmering until the stock is reduced by half, about another hour. Do not let the stock boil, or the result will be cloudy rather than clear.

3 Strain the stock into a large bowl, cool, then refrigerate for several hours. Scrape off any fat that solidifies on the surface, then transfer the stock into a covered container. If not using immediately, refrigerate or deep-freeze.

A faster alternative to making true chicken stock is to use chicken stock cubes prepared according to the package instructions, although this will not taste the same.

Crispy-fried Shallots

½ cup (125 ml) oil

6-8 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced

1 Heat oil in a saucepan over medium heat and fry the sliced shallots until golden brown, taking great care not to over-brown them as this makes them taste bitter.

2 Remove the fried shallots with a slotted spoon, transferring them onto a plate lined with paper towels. If not using them immediately, store in a dry, airtight jar to preserve their crispness.

Lobah (Deep-fried Pork and Prawn Rolls)

400 g (14 oz) lean pork shoulder, cubed

250 g (½ lb) fresh prawns, peeled and deveined

60 ml (¼ cup) water

1 small carrot, grated (about 85 g/ ¼ cup)

4 shallots, chopped

2 stalks spring onions, chopped

6 water chestnuts, chopped

½ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon ground white pepper

1 egg

1 heaped tablespoon cornflour

3 large sheets dried bean curd skin

Oil for deep-frying

Bottled plum sauce or chilli sauce

1 Put the pork and prawns in a food processor and pulse until coarsely ground. Bring water to the boil in a small saucepan, then add carrots and boil for 2 minutes. Drain and add the carrots, shallots, spring onions, water chestnuts, salt, pepper, egg and corn-flour to the pork mixture. Pulse until the mixture becomes a paste, then transfer to a bowl.

2 Wipe each bean curd sheet with a clean damp cloth then cut into 15-cm (6-in) squares. Put a little of the mixture into the centre of each piece of bean curd skin, shaping into a horizontal roll. Tuck in the ends, then roll up and press gently to seal.

3 Heat the oil in a wok. Deep-fry the rolls, a few at a time, until golden brown and crisp, 4-5 minutes. Drain on paper towel and serve with bottled plum sauce or chilli sauce.

Serves 4

Preparation time: 30 mins

Cooking time: 15-20 mins

Penang Spicy Rojak

1 small cucumber, skin raked with a fork, cut in irregular bite-sized pieces

1 small bangkuang (yam bean) (about 250 g/ 9 oz), peeled and cut in bite-sized pieces