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Basic Ingredients

Bean sprouts are sprouted green mung peas eaten blanched in some salads and soups, or quickly stir-fried as a vegetable. Always wash and trim bean sprouts before using, and pinch off the straggly tails just before use if desired.

Belachan is the Malay name for dried shrimp paste. It is a dense mixture of fermented ground shrimps that must be toasted before use—either wrapped in foil and dry-roasted or toasted over a gas flame on the back of a spoon.

Black Chinese mushrooms have large caps with creamy gills. They are normally sold dried, but are also available fresh in many places (same as shiitake). The stems of the dried mushrooms are discarded because they are too tough to eat. Fresh shiitake stems are quite edible. Dried black mushrooms are often preferred because their flavor is stronger than fresh ones. They must be reconstituted by soaking in hot water for 20 minutes or longer (up to an hour if you've purchased the thicker, more expensive grade). Squeeze them gently to remove excess moisture, trim and discard the stems, but save the stems and the soaking water to add to your soup stock.

Bonito flakes are the shavings of dried, smoked and cured bonito fish, and is sold in fine or coarse flakes in small plastic packs. Fine flakes are used as a garnish, and coarse flakes, to make dashi fish stock. Store unused portions in an airtight container or plastic bag.

Chilies come in many varieties. Fresh green and red finger-length chilies are moderately hot. Tiny red, green or orange chili padi (bird's eye chilies) are very hot. Dried chilies are usually deseeded, cut into lengths and soaked in warm water to soften before use. Chili powder is made from ground dried chilies.

Chinese rice wine is added to marinades and stir-fried dishes. The best Chinese rice wine is from Shao Xing. Dry sherry or sake could be used as a substitute.

Coconut cream or milk is widely used in Asian cooking. While freshly pressed coconut milk has more flavor, coconut cream and milk are now available in cans and carton packets that are quick and convenient to use. Consistencies vary from brand to brand, so use your judgment and dilute with water as needed. Thick coconut milk is obtained from coconut cream by diluting by half with water; and thin coconut milk is half again as diluted as thick milk. If preferred, you can make your own from fresh coconuts. For fresh coconut cream, add ½ cup water to the grated flesh of 1 coconut, knead it a few times, then strain it with your fist or using a muslin cloth or cheesecloth. This yields about ½ cup of coconut cream. Thick coconut milk is obtained by adding 1 cup of water to the grated coconut flesh, which will yield about 1 cup of thick coconut milk. Thin coconut milk is obtained by adding another cup of water to the already pressed coconut flesh and squeezing it a second time; this will yield 1 cup of thin coconut milk.

Coriander leaves or cilantro are the leaves of the coriander plant and are often referred to as Chinese parsley. They have a strong flavor and aroma and are typically used as a garnish.

Curry powder is a readily available blend of Indian spices, and typically contains turmeric, coriander, chilies, cumin, mustard, ginger, fenugreek, garlic, cloves, salt, and any number of other spices.

Dried prawns are a popular seasoning in many Cantonese dishes. Choose dried prawns that are pink in color and soak them in water to soften before use.

Fermented bean paste (dou jiang or tau cheo) or salted soy bean paste is sold in jars and used as a salty seasoning. It is made from salted and fermented soy beans that are usually brownish in color. Some brands yield golden brown beans and are labelled "yellow bean paste". "Sweet" and "hot" salted soy beans have added sugar and chili.

Fish sauce is indispensable in Thai cooking. Made from salted, fermented fish or prawns, good quality fish sauce is golden-brown in color and has a salty tang. It is used in the same way as the Chinese use soy sauce.

Five spice powder is a highly aromatic blend of Sichuan pepper, cinnamon bark, clove, fennel and star anise, ground to a fine powder and used to season stir-fried foods, in marinades and sauces.

Garam masala is an Indian blend of powdered spices, usually including cinnamon, cardamon, cloves, fennel and black pepper. Pre-blended garam masala can be bought from any store specializing in spices. Store in an airtight jar away from heat or sunlight.

Ghee is a rich clarified butter oil with the milk solids removed and is the main oil used in Indian cooking. Substitute with vegetable oil or butter.

Glass noodles, also known as cellophane noodles, tang hoon or bean threads, are thin transparent noodles made from mung bean flour. They are sold in dried form and must be soaked in warm water to soften before use. Use rice vermicelli as a substitute.

Kaffir lime leaves are used in soups and curries of Thai, Malay or Indonesian origin. They are also thinly sliced and used as a garnish. Buy them fresh or frozen or dried—the fresh or frozen leaves are much more fragrant.

Kim chee is a salted, fermented Korean pickle containing vegetables (usually Chinese cabbage, as well as long white radish) with liberal amounts of chili and garlic. It is eaten as a side-dish and is used as a seasoning. Keep refrigerated.

Konbu or dried kelp is a type of seaweed commonly used in Japanese cooking. It has a dark brown color, often with whitish patches of salt, and is sold in strips or small folded sheets. Look for konbu in the Japanese section of supermarkets.

Mint leaves are indispensable in salads. Mint grown in Southeast Asia has a very intense flavor, similar to spearmint, although regular mint leaves may also be used.

Mirin is a sweet liquid made by mixing and fermenting steamed glutinous rice with shoju (a distilled spirit similar to vodka). It adds a lovely glaze to grilled foods and is used to flavor soup stocks, marinades and dressings.

Nori is a type of seaweed pressed into very thin sheets and baked (yaki nori) or seasoned with sweetened soy sauce (ajitsuke nori). It is sold in large and medium sheets and usually packed in bundles of 10. Yaki nori is used for making sushi rolls. Before use, hold a nori sheet over an open flame for a few seconds, or toast it.

Oyster sauce is a sauce that is soy-based with oyster extract. Vegetarians should look for a version sold as "mushroom oyster sauce".

Rice paper wrappers are made from rice flour, water and salt. These wrappers are already cooked and unlike spring wrappers, do not need to be deep-fried or cooked any further. They are used to enclose a variety of fresh fillings and are available in Asian markets. Look for popiah wrappers or moo-shu pancakes.

Rice vinegar is mild and faintly fragrant, and is the preferred vinegar throughout Southeast Asia. Japanese rice vinegar is less acidic than malt or wine vinegars and has a mild and pleasant fragrance. If you cannot obtain rice vinegar, use distilled white vinegar and reduce the quantity by about a third.

Sesame oil is extracted from sesame seeds that have been toasted, producing a dark, dense and highly aromatic oil that is used for marinades, sauces and soups, or as a table condiment. Its nutty, smokey flavor has become a hallmark of Chinese cuisine.

Soy sauce is available in several forms. Light and dark soy sauces are used in this book. Light or "regular" soy sauce is saltier, less malty in flavor and thinner than black soy sauce. Chinese brands of black soy sauce are sometimes labelled "superior sauce".

Spring roll wrappers are thin sheets of light, pliable pastry made from wheat flour, eggs and salt. These wrappers are usually used to wrap a variety of fillings, then deep-fried until golden brown. They are available both fresh and frozen in well-stocked supermarkets and Asian markets. They are also sold in the West as egg roll wrappers, and are often called skins, rather than wrappers in Asia. Indonesian or Filipino lumpia skins are good substitutes.

Tamarind juice is made from dried tamarind pulp that is soaked in water, squeezed and then strained to provide a sour, fragrant juice added to many sauces and curries. Soak 1 tablespoon of tamarind pulp in 60 ml (¼ cup) warm water, then mash and strain the mixture to obtain the juice.

Thai lemon basil (manglak) is a lemon-scented herb added to dishes at the last minute to keep its flavor, or used as a garnish. Use regular basil as a substitute, although the flavor is quite different.

Thai red curry paste is used as a seasoning paste as well as in curries. Buy the packaged varieties or make your own paste. Dry-fry 1 tablespoon coriander seeds and 1 teaspoon cumin seeds in a wok or frying pan over low heat for 5 minutes, then grind the seeds to a powder using a blender or mortar and pestle, together with 5 dried red chilies (slit lengthwise, deseeded and soaked in hot water for 15 minutes), 3 tablespoons sliced shallots, 8 cloves smashed garlic, 2-3 slices galangal, 2 tablespoons sliced lemon-grass (tender portion only), 2 teaspoons grated kaffir lime rind, 1 tablespoon chopped coriander root and 10 black peppercorns. Add 1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste and grind to a smooth paste. Keep refrigerated.

Turmeric powder is a yellow powder with a mild, bitter and slightly acrid taste.

Wasabi is one of the best known of all Japanese condiments. It is a very spicy Japanese horse-radish that is sold in powdered form or as prepared paste.

Water chestnut is a crunchy brown tuber. Although its skin is difficult to peel, it is well worth using the fresh variety rather than canned water chestnuts. Fresh yam bean is a better substitute for fresh water chestnuts than the canned variety.

Tangy Tomato Dip

1 tablespoon dried prawns, soaked to soften then drained

2 tablespoons olive oil

3 shallots, minced

2 cloves garlic, smashed and minced

1-1½ teaspoons chili powder

¼ teaspoon turmeric powder

1 teaspoon belachan (dried shrimp paste)

3 medium red tomatoes (about 300 g/10 oz), finely diced

60 ml (¼ cup) warm water

1 tablespoon fish sauce

½ teaspoon sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

1 heaped tablespoon finely chopped fresh

I coriander leaves (cilantro)

1 Grind the dried prawns in a blender, food processor or with a mortar and pestle until fine. Heat the oil in a small saucepan and stir-fry the shallots, garlic and chili powder over low heat for about 2 minutes or until softened. Then add the turmeric powder, dried prawns and belachan. Stir-fry until fragrant. This should take another 2 minutes.

2 Add the tomatoes and water. Let the mixture simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally until the tomatoes start to soften.

3 Stir in the fish sauce, sugar and salt. Cover the saucepan and simmer for 7-10 minutes. Transfer the dip to a bowl and set aside to cool.

4 Mix in the coriander leaves. Serve with crispy rice cakes or raw vegetables.

Serves 8-10

Preparation time: 20 mins

Cooking time: 15 mins

Roasted Eggplant and Herb Dip

4-5 slender eggplants (about 500 g/1 lb)

1 large onion, thinly sliced

2 large green chilies, cut

1 spring onion, finely chopped

10 g (¼ cup) coarsely chopped mint leaves

10 g (¼ cup) coarsely chopped fresh coriander leaves

2 tablespoons fish sauce

2 tablespoons lime juice

Salt and sugar to taste

1 Roast the eggplants whole under the broiler or on a hot grill until the skin is blackened on both sides. This should take about 10 minutes. Press lightly with the back of a spoon to see that the flesh inside is soft and if not, grill further.

2 Allow the eggplants to cool, then cut each eggplant in half lengthways. Scoop out the flesh with a spoon. Put the flesh in a blender or food processor and blend to a smooth paste. Add the onion, chilies, herbs, fish sauce and lime juice and blend further. Add salt and sugar to taste.

3 Transfer the dip to a bowl and serve with crispy rice cakes, breadsticks or raw vegetables such as cabbage leaves, cucumber sticks, carrot sticks, young long beans, cauliflower and capsicum slices.

Serves 8-12

Preparation time: 15 mins

Cooking time: 15 mins

Crabstick Nori Rolls

2 level tablespoons wasabi

16 crabsticks

16 sticks cucumber, peeled, deseeded, the length of the crabsticks

¼ cup sliced pickled ginger, finely shredded

8 medium sheets nori seaweed, cut in half

Dipping Sauce

60 ml (¼ cup) light soy sauce

60 ml (¼ cup) dark soy sauce

60 ml (¼ cup) water

2½ tablespoons mirin

1 tablespoon bonito flakes

1 To make the Dipping Sauce, combine the sauce ingredients in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly, then strain through a fine sieve. Transfer to a sauce bowl.

2 Smear wasabi liberally on a crabstick using a finger. Put the crabstick, a piece of cucumber and a few shreds of pickled ginger across one end of a nori strip.

3 Moisten the other end of the nori strip with a wet finger. Roll up tightly to enclose the filling. Repeat until all the ingredients are used up.

4 Transfer the rolls to a serving plate and serve at room temperature with the Dipping Sauce.

Makes 16 rolls

Preparation time: 5 mins

Cooking time: 5 mins

Assembling time: 5 mins

Smoked Salmon and Avocado Sushi