Читать книгу The Totall Discourse of the Rare Adventures & Painefull Peregrinations - William Lithgow - Страница 12

The Ile of Candy formerly called Creta, hath to the North the Ægean sea, to the West the sea Ionian; to the South the Libique sea, and to the East, the Carpathian sea: It lieth midway twixt Achaia [III. 78.]in Greece and Cyrene in Affrick, not being distant from the one, nor from the other, above two dayes sayling: It is a most famous and auncient Kingdome: By moderne Writers, it is called Queene of The antiquity of Candy.the Iles Mediterrene: It had of olde an hundreth Citties, whereof it had the name Hecatompolis, but now onely foure, Candia, Canea, Rethimos, and Scythia, the rest are but Villages and Bourges. It is of length, to wit, from Capo Ermico in the West, called by Pliny, Frons arietis, and Capo Salomone in the East, two hundreth and forty Miles, large threescore, and of circuit sixe hundreth and fifty miles.

This is the chiefe Dominion, belonging to the Venetian Reipublique: In every one of these foure Citties, there is a Governour, and two Counsellors, sent from Venice every two yeares. The Countrey is divided into foure parts, under the jurisdiction of the foure Citties, for the better administration of Justice: and they have a Generall, who commonly remaineth in the Citty of Candy (like to a Viceroy) who deposeth, or imposeth Magistrates, Captaines, Souldiers, Officers, and others whatsoever, in the behalfe of Saint Marke or Duke of Venice. The Venetians detaine continually a strong guard, divided in Companies, Squadrons, and Garrisons, in the Citties and Fortresses of the Iland: which do extend to the number of 12000. Souldiers, kept, not onely for the incursion of Turks, but also for feare of the Creets or Inhabitants, who would rather (if they could) render to the Turke, then to live under the subjection of Venice, thinking thereby to have more liberty, & lesse taxed under the Infidell, then now they are under the Christian.

This Ile produceth the best Malvasy, Muscadine and Leaticke wines, that are in the whole Universe. It yeeldeth Orenges, Lemmons, Mellons, Cytrons, Grenadiers, [III. 79.]Adams Apples, Raisins, Olives, Dates, Hony, Sugar, Vua di tre volte, and all other kindes of fruite in abundance. But the most part of the Cornes are brought yearely from Archipelago and Greece. The Rivers of Candy.The chiefe Rivers are Cataracho, Melipotomos, Escasino; being all of them shallow and discommodious for shipping, in respect of their short courses, and rocky passages: And the principall Citties of olde, were Gnassus, where Minos kept his Court, 2. Cortina, 3. Aphra and Cydonia. This Countrey was by Marcellus made subject to the Romanes: It was afterward given by Baldwin Earle of Flanders, the first Latin Emperor of Constantinople to Boniface of Montserrat, who sold it, Anno 1194. to the Venetians.

This much of the Ile in generall; and now in respect of my travelling two times through the bounds of the whole Kingdome, which was never before atchieved by any Traveller in Christendome; I will as briefly as I can in particular, relate a few of these miseries indured by me in this Land, with the nature & quality of the people.

This aforesaid Carabusa, is the principall Fortresse of Creta, being of it selfe invincible, and is not unlike to the Castle of Dunbertan, which standeth at the mouth of Clyd; upon which River The old and famous City of Lanerke.the auncient City of Lanerke is situated: For this Fort is environed with a Rocke higher then the wals, and joyneth close with Capo Ermico: having learned of the theevish way I had to Canea, I advised to put my mony in exchange, which the Captaine of that strength very curteously performed; and would also have diswaded me from my purpose, but I by no perswasion of him would stay. From thence departing, all alone, scarcely was I advanced twelve miles in my way, when I was beset on the skirt of a Rocky Mountaine; with three Greeke murdering Renegadoes, and an Italian [III. 80.]Bandido: who laying hands on me, beate me most cruelly, robbed me of all my clothes, and stripped me naked, threatning me with many grievous speeches.

At last the respective Italian, perceiving I was a stranger, and could not speake the Cretan tongue, began to aske me in his owne language, where was my money? to whom I soberly answered, I had no more then he saw, which was fourescore Bagantines: which scarcely amounted to two groats English: But he not giving credit to these words, searched all my clothes and Budgeto, yet found nothing except my linnen, and Letters of recommendations I had from divers Princes of Christendome, especially the Duke of Venice, whose subjects they were, if they had beene lawfull subjects: Which when he saw, did move him to compassion, and earnestly entreated the other three theeves to grant me mercy, and to save my life: A happy deliverance.A long deliberation being ended, they restored backe againe my Pilgrimes clothes, and Letters, but my blew gowne and Bagantines they kept: Such also was their theevish courtesie toward me, that for my better safegard in the way, they gave me a stamped piece of clay, as a token to shew any of their companions, if I encountred with any of them; for they were about twenty Rascalles of a confederate band, that lay in this desart passage.

Leaving them with many counterfeit thankes, I travelled that day seaven and thirty miles, and at night attained to the unhappy Village of Pickehorno: where I could have neither meate, drinke, lodging, nor any refreshment to my wearied body. These desperate Candiots thronged about me, gazing (as though astonished) to see me both want company, and their Language, and by their cruell [III. 81.]lookes, they seemed to be a barbarous and uncivill people: Cruell Candiots.For all these High-landers of Candy, are tyrannicall, blood-thirsty, and deceitfull. The consideration of which and the appearance of my death, signed to me secretly by a pittifull woman, made me to shun their villany in stealing forth from them in the darke night, and privately sought for a secure place of repose in a umbragious Cave by the Sea side, where I lay till morning with a fearefull heart, a crased body, a thirstie stomacke, and a hungry belly.

Upon the appearing of the next Aurora, and when the welkin, had put aside the vizard of the night, the Starres being coverd, and the earth discoverd by the Sunne; I imbraced my unknowne way, and about midday came to Canea: Invinceable Canea.Canea is the second Citie of Creete, called aunciently Cydon, being exceeding populous, well walled, and fortified with Bulwarkes: It hath a large Castle, containing ninety seaven Pallaces, in which the Rector and other Venetian Gentlemen dwell. There lye continually in it seaven Companies of Souldiers who keepe Centinell on the walles, guarde the gates and Market places of the Citie: Neither in this Towne nor Candia, may any Countrey Peasant enter with weapons (especially Harquebuzes) for that conceived feare they have of Treason. Truely this City may equall in strength, either Zara in Dalmatia, or Luka, or Ligorne, both in Tuscana, or matchlesse Palma in Friuly: for these five Cities are so strong, that in all my Travells I never saw them matched. They are all well provided with abundance of Artilery, and all necessary things for their defence, especially Luka, which continually reserves in store provision of victuals for twelve yeares siege.

In my first abode in Canea, being a fortnight, there came 6. Gallies from Venice, upon one of which there [III. 82.]was a young French Gentleman, a Protestant, borne neare Monpeillier in Langadocke; who being by chance in company with other foure of his Countrey-men in Venice, one of them killed a young Noble Venetian, about the quarrell of a Courtezan: Whereupon they flying to the French Ambassadours house, the rest escaped, and he onely apprehended by a fall in his flight, was afterward condemned by the Senatours to the Galleys induring life. Now the Galleys lying here sixe dayes, he got leave of the Captaine to come a shoare with a Keeper, when he would, carrying an yron bolt on his legge: In which time we falling in acquaintance, he complained heavily of his hard fortune, and how because he was a Protestant, (besides his slavery) he was severely abused in the Galley; A Religious comfort.sighing forth these words with teares, Lord have mercy upon me, and graunt me patience, for neither friends, nor money can redeeme me: At which expression I was both glad and sorrowfull, the one moving my soule to exult in joy for his Religion: the other, for his misfortunes, working a Christian condolement for intolerable affliction: For I was in Venice, at that same time when this accident fell out, yet would not tell him so much: But pondering seriously his lamentable distresse, I secretly advised him the manner how he might escape, and how farre I would hazard the liberty of my life for his deliverance, desiring him to come a shoare earely the next morning. Meane while I went to an old Greekish woman, with whom I was friendly inward, for she was my Landresse; and reciting to her the whole businesse, she willingly condiscended to lend me an old gowne, and a blacke vaile for his disguisement. The time come, and we met, the matter was difficult to shake off the Keeper; but such was my plot, I did invite him to the Wine, where [III. 83.]after tractall discourses, and deepe draughts of Leatick, reason failing, sleepe overcame his sences. Whereupon conducting my friend to the appointed place, I disburdened him of his Irons, clothed him in a female habite, and sent him out before me, conducted by the Greekish woman: And when securely past both Guards and Gate, I followed, carrying with me his clothes: where, when accoasting him by a field of Olives, and the other returned backe, we speedily crossed the vale of Suda, and interchanging his apparrell, I directed him the way over A place of refuge.the Mountaines to a Greekish convent on the South side of the land, a place of safeguard, called commonly the Monastery of refuge; where he would kindly be entertained, till either the Galleys, or men of Warre of Malta arrived: It being a custome at their going, or comming from the Levante to touch here, to relieve and carry away distressed men: This is a place whereunto Bandits, men slayers, and robbers repaire for reliefe.

And now many joyfull thanks from him redounded, I returned keeping the high way, where incontinent I encountred two English Souldiers, John Smith, and Thomas Hargrave, comming of purpose to informe me of an eminent danger, shewing me that all the Officers of the Galleys, with a number of Souldiers were in searching the City, and hunting all over the fields for me: After which relation, consulting with them, what way I could come to the Italian Monastery Saint Salvator, for there I lay; (the vulgar Towne affording neither lodging nor beds). They answered me, they would venture their lives for my liberty, and I should enter at the Easterne (the least frequented) gate of the City, where three other English men were that day on guard, for so there were five of them here in Garison: Where, when we came, [III. 84.]the other English accompanied with eight French souldiers their familiars, came along with us also: And having past the Market place, and neere my lodging, foure Officers and sixe Galley souldiers, runne to lay hands on me: whereat the English and French unsheathing their Swords, valiantly resisted their fury, and deadly wounded two of the Officers: Meane while fresh supply comming from the Galleys, John Smith runne along with me to the Monastery, leaving the rest at pell mell, to intercept their following: At last the Captaines of the Garrison approaching the tumult, relieved their owne Souldiers, and drove backe the other to the Galleys. A little thereafter the Generall of the Galleys come to the Monastery, and examined me concerning the fugitive, but I cleering my selfe so, and quenching the least suspition he might conceive (notwithstanding of mine accusers) hee could lay nothing to my charge: howsoever it was, he seemed somewhat favourable; partly, because I had the Duke of Venice his Pasport, partly, because of mine intended voyage to Jerusalem; partly, because he was a great favourer of the French Nation: and partly because he could not mend himselfe, in regard of my shelter, and the Governours favour: yet neverthelesse, I detained my selfe under Cloysters are safeguards.safeguard of the Cloyster, untill the Galleys were gone.

Being here disappointed of transportation to Archipelago, I advised to visit Candy: and in my way I past by the large Haven of Suda, which hath no Towne or Village, save onely a Castle, situated on a Rocke in the Sea, at the entry of the Bay: the bounds of that Harbour may receive at one time above two thousand Shippes and Galleys, and is the onely Key of the Iland: for the which place, the King of Spaine hath oft offered an infinite deale of money to the Venetians, whereby his Navy [III. 85.]which sometimes resort in the Levante, might have accesse and reliefe; but they would never graunt him his request; which policy of his was onely to have surprized the Kingdome.

South-west from this famous harbour, lieth a pleasant plaine surnamed The pleasant valley of Suda.the Valley of Suda: It is twenty Italian Miles long, and two of breadth: And I remember, or I discended to crosse the Valley, and passe the haven, me thought the whole planure resembled to me a greene sea; and that was onely by reason of infinite Olive trees grew there, whose boughes and leaves over-toppe all other fructiferous trees in that plaine: The Villages for losse of ground are all built on the skirts of Rockes, upon the South side of the Valley; yea, and so difficile to climbe them, and so dangerous to dwell in them, that me thought their lives were in like perill, as he who was adjoyned to sit under the poynt of a two handed sword, and it hanging by the haire of a horse tayle.

Trust me, I told along these Rockes at one time, and within my sight, some 67. Villages; but when I entred the valley, I could not find a foote of ground unmanured, save a narrow passing way wherein I was: The Olives, Pomgranets, Dates, Figges, Orenges, Lemmons, and Pomi del Adamo growing all through other: And at the rootes of which trees grew Wheate, Malvasie, Muscadine, Leaticke Wines, Grenadiers, Carnobiers, Mellones, and all other sorts of fruites and hearbes, the earth can yeeld to man; that for beauty, pleasure, and profit it may easily be surnamed, the garden of the whole Universe: being the goodliest plot, the Diamond sparke, and the Honny spot of all Candy: There is no land more temperate for ayre, for it hath a double spring-tyde; no soyle more [III. 86.]fertile, and therefore it is called the Combat of Bachus and Ceres; nor region or valley more hospitable, in regard of the sea, having such a noble haven cut through its bosome, being as it were the very resting place of Neptune.

Upon the third dayes journey from Canea, I came to Rethimos; This City is somewhat ruinous, and unwalled, but the Citizens have newly builded a strong Fortresse, but rather done by the State of Venice, which defendeth them from the invasion of Pyrats: It standeth by the sea side, and in the yeare 1597. It was miserably sacked, and burned with Turkes. Continuing my voyage, I passed along the skirt of Mount Ida.Mount Ida, accompanied with Greekes, who could speake the Italian tongue, on which, first they shewed me the cave of King Minos, but some hold it to be the Sepulcher of Jupiter. That Groto was of length eighty paces, and eight large: This Minos was sayd to be the brother of Radamanthus, and Sarpedon; who, after their succession to the Kingdome, established such æquitable lawes, that by Poets they are feigned with Æacus to be the Judges of Hell. I saw also there, the place where Jupiter (as they say) was nourished by Amalthes, which by Greekes is recited, as well as Latine Poets.

Thirdly, they shewed me the Temple of Saturne, which is a worke to be admired, of such Antiquity, and as yet undecayed; who (say they) was the first King that inhabited there, and Father to Jupiter. And neare to it is the demolished Temple of Matelia, having this superscription above the doore, yet to be seene: Make cleane your feete, wash your hands and enter. Fourthly, I saw the entry into the Dedalus Laborinth.Laborinth of Dedalus, which I would gladly have better viewed, but because we had no Candle-light, we durst not enter: for there are many hollow places within it: so that if a man stumble, or fall, [III. 87.]he can hardly be rescued: It is cut forth with many intricating wayes, on the face of a little hill, joyning with Mount Ida, having many doores and pillars. Here it was where Theseus by the helpe of Ariadne the daughter of King Minos, taking a bottome of threed, and tying the one end at the first doore, did enter and slay the Minotaurus, who was included there by Dedalus: This Minotaure is sayd to have bene begot by the lewd and luxurious Pasiphae, who doted on a white Bull.

Mount Ida is the highest Mountaine in Creta, and by the computation of Shepheards feete, amounteth to sixe miles of height: It is over-clad even to the toppe with Cypre trees, and good store of medicinable hearbes: insomuch that the beasts which feede thereupon, have their teeth gilded, like to the colour of Gold: Mount Ida, of old was called Phelorita, by some Cadussa, but modernely Madura: It is sayd by some Historians, that no venemous animall can live in this Ile; but I saw the contrary: Historian errours.For I kild on a Sunday morning hard by the Sea-side, and within two miles of Rethimos, two Serpents and a Viper: One of which Serpents, was above a yard and halfe in length, for they being all three rolling within the coverture of the dry sands, my right legge was almost in their reverence before I remarked the danger: Wherefore many build upon false reports, but experience teacheth men the trueth.

Some others also Historize, that if a Woman here, bite a man any thing hard, he will never recover: and that there is an hearbe called Allimos in this Iland, which if one chaw in his mouth, he shall not feele hunger for foure and twenty howres: all which are meere fabulous, such is the darkenesse of cloudy inventions.

Descending from this Mountaine, I entred in a faire [III. 88.]plaine, beautified with many Villages; in one of which, I found a Grecian Bishop, who kindly presented me with grapes of Malvasie, and other things, for it was in the time of their vintage. To carry these things he had given me, he caused to make ready an Asse, and a Servant, who went with me to Candy, which was more then fifteene miles from his house. True it is, that the best sort of Greekes, in visiting other, doe not use to come empty handed, neither will they suffer a stranger to depart without both gifts and convoy.

I remember along this sassinous and marine passage, I found three fountaines gushing forth of a Rocke, each one within a yard of other, having three sundry tasts: the first water was exceeding light, and sweet; the middle or second, marvelous sowre and heavy: the third was bitter and extraordinary salt: so that in so short bounds so great difference, I never found before, nor afterward.

The City of Candy.Candy is distant from Canea a hundreth miles, Rethimos being halfe way betwixt both: so is Candy halfe way in the same measure, twixt Rethimos and Scythia, and Canea the like twixt Rethimos and Carabusa, being in all 200. miles.

Candy is a large and famous City, formerly called Matium, situated on a plaine by the sea side, having a goodly Haven for shippes, and a faire Arsenall wherein are 36. Gallies: It is exceeding strong, and dayly guarded with 2000. Souldiers, and the walles in compasse are about three leagues.

In this time there was no Viceroy, the former being newly dead, and the place vacant, the Souldiers kept a bloody quarter among themselves, or against any whomsoever their malignity was intended, for in all the time I stayed there being ten dayes, it was nothing to see every [III. 89.]day foure or five men killed in the streetes: neither could the Rector, nor the Captaines helpe it, so tumultuous were the disordered Souldiers, and the occasions of revenge and quarrellings so influent. This commonly they practise in every such like vacation, which otherwise, they durst never attempt without death, and severe punishment; and truely me thought it was as barbarous a governed place for the time, as ever I saw in the world: For hardly could I save my owne life free from their dangers, in the which I was twice miserably involved.

Distances from Candy.Candy is distant from Venice 1300. miles, from Constantinople 700. from Famagusta in Cyprus, 600. from Alexandria in Ægypt, 500. from Tripoli in Siria 700. from Naples 900. from Malta 500. from Smyrna, in Carmania of Natolia 400. and from the Citty of Jerusalem, 900. miles. The Candeots through all the Iland, make muster every eight day, before the Serjant-majors, or Officers of the Generall, and are well provided with all sorts of Armour; yea, and the most valerous people that hight the name of Greekes. It was told me by the Rector of Candy, that they may raise in Armes of the Inhabitants (not reckoning the Garrisons) above sixty thousand men, all able for warres, with 54. Gallies, and 24. Galleots for the sea.

In all my travels through this Realme, I never could see a Greeke come forth of his house unarmed: and after such a martiall manner, that on his head he weareth a bare steele cap, a bow in his hand, a long sword by his side, a broad Ponard overthwart his belly, and a round Target hanging at his girdle. They are not costly in apparell, for they weare but linnen cloathes, and use no shooes but bootes of white leather, to keepe their legges in the fields from the prickes of a kind of Thistle, wherewith [III. 90.]the Countrey is overcharged like unto little bushes or short shrubs which are marvelous sharpe, and offensive unto the inhabitants, whereof, often a day to my great harme, I found their bloody smart: The women generally weare linnen breaches as men do, and bootes after the same manner, and their linnen coates no longer then the middle of their thighes, and are insatiably inclined to Venery, such is the nature of the soyle and climate. The Creets turnd Critticks.auncient Cretans were such notable lears, that the heathen Poet Epimenides, yea, and the Apostle Paul in his Epistle to Titus, did tearme them to have beene ever liers, evill beasts, and slow bellies: whence sprung these proverbs, as Cretense mendacium, & cretisandum est cum cretensibus.

The Candiots are excellent good Archers, surpassing all the Orientall people therein, couragious and valiant upon the Sea, as in former times they were; and they are naturally inclined to singing: so that commonly after meat, Man, Wife, and Child of each family, will for the space of an houre, sing with such a harmony, as is wonderfull melodious to the hearer; yea, and they cannot forgoe the custome of it.

Their Harvest is our Spring: for they manure the ground, and sow the seed in October, which is reaped in March, and Aprill. Being frustrate of my intention at Candy, I was forced to returne to Canea the same way I went: when come, I was exceeding merry with my old friends the English-men: Meane-while there arrived from Tunnis in Barbary, An English runagate.an English Runagate named Wolson, bound for the Rhodes: where after short acquaintance with his natives, and understanding what I was, he imparted these words, I have had my elder brother, sayd he, the Maister (or Captaine) of a ship, slaine at Burnt-Iland [III. 91.]in Scotland by one called Keere; and notwithstanding he was beheaded, I have long since sworne to be revenged of my brothers death, on the first Scotsman I ever saw or met, and my designe is, to stob him with a knife this night, as he goeth late home to his lodging desiring their assistance: But Smith, Hargrave, and Horsfeild refused, yet Cooke and Rollands yeelded. Meane-while Smith knowing where I used sometimes to diet, found me at supper in a Sutlers, a souldiers house, where acquainting me with this plot, the hoste, he, and three Italian souldiers conveighed me to my bed, passing by the arch-villaine, and his confederats, where he was prepared for the mischiefe: which when he saw his treachery was discovered, he fled away, & was seene no more here.

Remarking the fidelity and kindnesse that Smith had twice shewen me, first in freeing me from the danger of galley-slavery, and now in saving my life, I advised to doe him a good deed in some part of acquittance, and thus it was: Smith relieved from long bondage.At his first comming to Venice, he was taken up as a souldier for Candy: where, when transported, within a small time he found the Captaines promise and performance different, which enforced him at the beginning to borrow a little money of his Lieutenant: the five yeares of their abode expired, and fresh Companies come from Venice to exhibit the charge, Smith not being able to discharge his debt, was turned over to the new Captaine for five yeares more, who payed the old Captaine his mony; and his time also worne out, the third Captaine came, where likewise he was put in his hands serving him five yeares longer.

Thus having served three Captaines fifteene yeares, and never likely able (for a small trifle) to attaine his liberty, [III. 92.]I went to the Captaine and payed his debt, obtaining also of the Rector his licence to depart; and the allowance of the State for his passage, which was Wine and Biscot-bread: Thereafter: I imbarked him for Venice in a Flemish ship, the Maister being a Scotsman, John Allen borne in Glasgow, and dwelt at Middleborough in Zeland, his debt was onely forty eight shillings starling.

Here I stayed in Canea twenty five dayes before I could get passage for the Arch Ilands, being purposed for Constantinople; but gladly would not have left the Monastary of these foure Friars, with whom I was lodged, if it had not beene for my designes; in regard of their great cheere and deepe draughts of Malvasey I received hourely, and oftentimes against my will: Every night after supper, the Friars forced me to dance with them, either one gagliard or other: Drunken Fryers.Their Musicke in the end was sound drunkennesse, and their Syncopa turnd to spew up all, and their bed converted to a boord, or else the hard floore, for these beastly swine, were nightly so full, that they had never power to goe to their owne chambers, but where they fell, there they lay till the morne: the cloyster it selfe had two faire Courts, the least of which might have lodged any King of Europe: The Church was little, and among the foure Friars, there was but one Masse-Priest, being a Greeke borne and turn’d to the Roman faction: his new name was Pattarras Matecarras, Pater Libenter, or Father of free will, indeed a right name for so sottish a fellow, for he was so free of his stomacke to receive in strong liquor, that for the space of twenty dayes of my being there, I never saw him, nor any one of the other three truely sober. Many odde merriments and jests have I observed of these Friars of Candie, but time will not suffer me to relate them, onely remitting the rest to my privat discourse, a figge for their folly.

[III. 93.]I travelled on foot in this Ile more then foure hundred miles, and upon the fifty eight day after my first comming to Carabusa, I imbarked in a Fisher-boat that belonged to Milo, being a hundred miles distant, which had beene violently driven thither with stormy weather.

And in our passing thither, we were in danger to be over-runne two severall times, with two huge broken Seas, which twice covered the body of the closse boat: yet with extreame fortune we arrived at Milo in a bay of the East corner of the Ile, being about St. Andrewes day, where the poore Greeks tooke me up to their Village, two miles distant from this Creeke, and I abode with them foure dayes.

Milo.Milo was called by Aristotle, Melada, and by others, Mimalida, Melos: And lastly Milo; because of the fine mil-stones that are got there, which are transported to Constantinople, Greece, and Natolia. This Ile is one of the Iles Cyclades, or Sporades, but more commonly Archipelago, or the Arch-Ilands, and standeth in the beginning of the Ægean sea: The Inhabitants are Greekes, but slaves to the Turke, and so are all the fifty foure Iles of the Cyclades, save onely Tino, which holdeth of the Venetians.

From Milo I came to Zephano in a small boat, an Iland of circuit about twenty miles, and ten miles distant from Milo: The Inhabitants are poore, yet kind people: There are an infinite number of Partridges within this Ile, of a reddish colour, and bigger then ours in Brittaine: They are wilde, and onely killed by small shot; but I have seene in other Ilands flockes of them feeding in the fields, and usually kept by children: Some others I have seene [III. 94.]in the streetes of Villages, without any keeper, even as our Hennes doe with us. I saw fountaines here, that naturally yeeld fine Oyle, which is the greatest advantage the Ilanders have.

Zephano.Zephano did once produce the Calamita, and was renowned for the fine Mines of Gold and Silver, of which now it is altogether desolate: There is also fine Sulphur here, and exceeding good Marble: from whence Lucullus was the first that transported it to Rome: There is a certaine ground in this Ile, where it is sayd, that if any take it away, or digge deepe holes, the earth of it selfe in a small time will surcrease without any ayde of man. East from Milo and Zephano, lye the Iles Policandro, and Christiana, formerly Laguso, Sicandro; and Sasurnino, anciently Calistha, famous for the birth of the Poet Calimachus.

From thence I imbarked, and arrived at Angusa in Parir.Parir: This Ile is forty miles long, and sixe miles broad: being plentifull enough in all necessary things for the use of man: It was aunciently called Demetriado, whose length lieth South-west, and North-East: And hard by the high Mountaine of Camphasia, neere to Angusa, on a faire Valley standeth the auncient Temple of Venus, never a whit decayed to this day: This Ile was given to the Venetians by Henry the Constantinopolitan Emperour, and brother to Baldwin Earle of Flanders: and it was seazed upon by Mahomet, when Nigropont, and diverse other Iles were surprised from the Venetians.

In Angusa I stayed sixteene dayes, storme-sted with Northernely winds; and in all that time, I never came in bed: for my lodging was in a little Chappell a mile without the Village, on hard stones; where I also had a fire, and dressed my meate. The Greekes visited me oftentimes, & intreated me above all things I should not [III. 95.]enter within the bounds of their Sanctuary; because I was not of their Religion. But I in regard of the longsome and cold nights, was enforced every night to creepe in, in the midst or the Sanctuary to keepe my selfe warme, which Sanctuary was nothing but an Aultar hembd in with a partition wall about my height, dividing the little roome from the body of the Chappell.

These miserable Ilanders, are a kind of silly poore people; which in their behaviour, shewed the necessity they had to live, rather then any pleasure in their living. From thence I imbarked on a small barke of ten Tunnes come from Scithia in Candy, and loaden with Oyle, and about midday we arrived in the Ile of Mecano, where we but only dined, and so set forward to Zea.

This Mecano was formely called Delos, famous for the Temple of Apollo, being the chiefe Ile of the Cyclades, the rest of the 54. incircling it: Delos signifieth apparant, because at the request of Juno, when all the earth had Latona receaved in Delos.abjured the receipt of Latona: This Iland then under the water, was by Jupiter erected aloft, and fixt to receive her, wherein she was delivered of Apollo, and Diana:

—— erratica Delos, &c.

Ovid. Unsetled Delos, floating on the maine,

Did wandring Laton kindly entertaine;

In spight of Juno, fatned with Joves balme,

Was brought to bed, under Minerva’s palme.

In this Ile they retaine a custome, neither permitting men to dye, or children to be borne in it: but alwayes when men fall sicke, and women grow great bellied, they send them to Rhena a small Isoletta, and two miles distant.

[III. 96.]Zea to which we arrived from Mecano, was so called of Zeo, the sonne of Phebo; and of some, Tetrapoli; because of the foure Citties that were there of old. Symonides the Poet, and Eristato the excellent Physition, were borne in it. The next Ile of any note we touched at, was Tino: This Iland is under the Signory of Venice, and was sometime beautified with the Temple of Neptune. By Aristotle it was called Idrusa; of Demostenes, and Eschines, Erusea: It hath an impregnable Castle, builded on the top of a high Rocke, towards the East-end or Promontore of the Ile, and ever provided with three yeares provision, and a Garison of two hundreth Souldiers: So that the Turkes by no meanes can conquer it. The Iland it selfe is twenty miles in length, and a great refuge for all Christian Shippes and Galleys that haunt in the Levante.

The Ile of Pathmos.From this Ile I came to Palmosa, sometime Pathmos, which is a mountainous and barren Iland: It was here that Saint John wrote the Revelation after he was banished by Domitianus the Emperour. Thence I imbarked to Nicaria, and sayled by the Ile Scyro; which of old was the Signory of Licomedes, and in the habit of a woman, was Achilles brought up here, because his mother being by an Oracle premonished, that he should be killed in the Trojan Warre, sent him to this Iland; where he was maiden-like brought up amongst the Kings daughters: who in that time, begot Pyrhus upon Deidamia, the daughter of Licomedes, and where the crafty Ulysses afterward did discover this fatall Prince to Troy. As we fetched up the sight of Nicaria, we espied two Turkish Galleots, who gave us the Chace, and pursued us, straight to a bay, betwixt two Mountaines, where we left the loaden boate, and fled to the Rockes, from whence we mightily annoyed with huge tumbling stones, the persuing [III. 97.]Turkes: But in our flying, the Maister was taken, and other two old men; whom they made captives and slaves: and also seized upon the Boate, and all their goods: The number of us that escaped were nine persons.

This Ile Nicaria, was aunciently called Doliche, and Ithiosa, and is somewhat barren: having no Sea-port at all: It was here, the Poets feigned, that Icarus the sonne of Dedalus fell, when as he tooke flight from Creta, with his borrowed wings, of whom it hath the name; and Ovid de Trist.not following directly his father Dedalus, was here drowned.

Dum petit infirmis nimium sublimiæ pennis

Icarus, Icariis, nomina fecit aquis.

Whiles Icarus weake wings, too high did flye,

He fell, and baptiz’d the Icarian sea.

So many moe, experience may account,

That both above their minds, and meanes would mount.

Expecting certaine dayes here, in a Village called Laphantos, for passage to Sio, at last I found a Brigandino bound thither, that was come from the fruitfull Ile of Stalimene, of old Lemnos. This Ile of Stalimene is in circuit 90. miles, where in Hephestia it’s Metropolis, Vulcans birth.Vulcan was mightily adored; who being but a homely brat, was cast downe hither by Juno, whereby it was no marvaile if he became crooked, and went a halting: The soveraigne minerall against infections, called Teera Lemnia, or Sigillata is digged here: The former name proceedeth from the Iland: The latter is in force, because the earth being made up in little pellets, is sealed with a Turkish Signet, and so sold, and dispersed over Christendome. Having imbarked in the aforesaid Brigandine, we sayled by the Ile Samos, which is opposite to Caria, in Asia minor, where the Tyrant Policrates lived [III. 98.]so fortunate, as he had never any mischance all this time, till at last Orientes a Persian brought him to a miserable death: Leaving us an example, that fortune is certaine in nothing but in incertainties, who like a Bee with a sharpe sting, hath alwaies some misery following a long concatenation of felicities: It is of circuit 160. and of length 40. miles: It was of old named Driusa, and Melanphilo, in which Pythagoras the Philosopher, and Lycaon the excellent Musitioner were borne.

Upon our left hand, and opposit to Samos lyeth the Nixia.Ile of Nixia, formerly Naxos; in circuit 68. miles: It was also called the Ile of Venus, and Dionisia, and was taken from the Venetians by Selim, the father of Soliman: East from Nixia, lieth the Ile Amurgospolo, in circuit twenty leagues, it hath three commodious ports, named St. Anna, Calores, and Cataplino: A little from hence, and in sight of Natolia, lieth the Ile Calamo, formerly Claros, in circuit thirty miles: and Eastward thence the little Ile of Lerno, five leagues in circuit, all inhabited with Greeks, and they, the silly ignorants of nature: South-east from this lieth the The Ile of Lango.Ile of Coos now Lango: by the Turkes called Stanccow, the Capitall Towne is Arango, where Hypocrates and Apelles the Painter were borne: In this Ile, there is a wine named by the Greekes, Hyppocon, that excelleth in sweetnesse all other wines except the Malvasie, and it aboundeth in Cypre and Turpentine trees: There is here a part of the Ile disinhabited, in regard of a contagious Lake, that infecteth the ayre, both Summer, and Winter. There is abundance of Alloes found here, so much esteemed by our Pothecaries; the rest of this Ile shall be touched in the owne place. And neere to Lango, lyeth the Ile Giara, now Stopodia, it is begirded with Rocks and desartuous, unto which the [III. 99.]Romans were wont to send in banishment such as deserved death: In generall of these Iles Cyclads, because they are so neere one to another, and each one in sight of another, there are many Cursares and Turkish Galleots, that still afflict these Ilanders: Insomuch that the Inhabitants are constrained to keepe watch day and night, upon the tops of the most commodious Mountaines, to discover these Pirats; which they easily discerne from other vessells, The danger of Turkish Pirats.both because of their Sayles and Oares: And whensoever discovered, according to the number of cursary Boates, they make as many fires, which giveth warning to all the Ports to be on guard: And if the Sea voyagers in passing see no signe on these Iles, of fire or smoake, then they perfectly know, these Laborinthing Seas, are free from pestilent Raveners.

As we left the Ile Venico on our left hand, and entred in the gulfe betweene Sio, and Eolida, the firme land is called Æolida, there fell downe a deadly storme, at the Grecoe Levante, or at the North-east, which split our Mast, carrying sayles and all over-boord: Whereupon every man looked (as it were) with the stampe of death in his pale visage. The tempest continuing (our Boate not being able to keepe the Seas) we were constrained to seeke into a creeke, betwixt two Rocks, for safety of our lives; where, when we entred, there was no likely-hood of reliefe: for we had a shelfie shoare, and giving ground to the Ankors, they came both home.

A fearfull shipwracke.The sorrowfull Maister seeing nothing but shipwrack, tooke the Helme in hand, directing his course to rush upon the face of a low Rocke, whereupon the sea most fearefully broke. As we touched the Mariners contending who should first leape out, some fell over-boord, and those that got land, were pulled backe by the reciprocating [III. 100.]waves: Neither in all this time durst I once move; for they had formerly sworne, if I pressed to escape, before the rest were first forth, they would throw me headlong into the sea: So being two wayes in danger of death, I patiently offered up my prayers to God.

At our first encounter with the Rocks, (our fore-decks, and Boates gallery being broke, and a great Lake made) the recoiling waves brought us backe from the Shelfes a great way; which the poore Master perceiving, and that there were seven men drowned, and eleven persons alive, cryed with a loud voyce: Be of good courage, take up oares, and row hastily; it may be, before the Barke sinke, we shall attaine to yonder Cave, which then appeared to our sight: Every man working for his owne deliverance (as it pleased God) we got the same with good fortune: for no sooner were we disbarked, and I also left the last man, but the Boat immediately sunke. There was nothing saved but my Coffino, which I kept alwaies in my armes: partly, that it might have brought my dead body to some creeke, where being found, might have beene by the Greekes buryed; and partly I held it fast also, A happy deliverance from shipwracke.that saving my life, I might save it too; it was made of Reeds and would not easily sinke, notwithstanding of my papers and linnen I carried into it: for the which safety of my things, the Greekes were in admiration. In this Cave, which was 30. paces long, within the mountaine, we abode three daies without either meate or drinke: upon the fourth day at morne, the tempest ceasing, there came Fisher-boates to relieve us, who found the ten Greekes almost famished for lacke of foode; but I in that hunger-starving feare, fed upon the expectation of my doubtfull reliefe.

True it is, a miserable thing it is for man, to grow an example to others in matters of affliction, yet it is necessary that some men should be so: For it pleased [III. 101.]God, having showne a sensible disposition of favour upon me, in humbling me to the very pit of extremities, taught me also by such an unexpected deliverance, both to put my confidence in his eternall goodnesse, and to know the frailty of my owne selfe, and my ambition, which drave me often to such disasters.

The dead men being found on shoare, we buried them; and I learned at that instant time, there were seventeene boats cast away on the Coast of this Iland, and never a man saved: in this place the Greekes set up a stone crosse in the memoriall of such a woefull mischance, and mourned heavily, fasting and praying. I rejoycing and thanking God for my safety (leaving them sorrowing for their friends and goods) tooke journey through the Iland to Sio, for so is the City called, being thirty miles distant: In my way I past by an old Castle standing on a little hill, named Garbos, now Helias; where (as I was informed by two Greekes in my company) the Sepulcher of Homer was yet extant: for this Sio is one of the seven Iles and Townes, that contended for his birth:

Septem urbes certant de stirpe insignis Homeri.

These Cities seven (I undername) did strive,

Who first brought Homer to the world alive.

Smyrna, Rhodos, Colophon, Salamis, Chios, Argos, Athenæ:

The which I willing to see, I entreated my associats to accompany me thither; where, when we came, we descended by 16. degrees into a darke Cell; and passing that, we entred in another foure squared roome, in which Homers Sepulcher.I saw an auncient Tombe, whereon were ingraven Greeke letters, which we could not understand for their antiquity; but whether it was this Tombe or not, I doe not know, but this they related, and yet very likely to have beene his Sepulcher.

[III. 102.]Sio.This Ile of Sio is divided into two parts, to wit, Appanomera, signifying the higher, or upper parts of it: The other Catomerea, that is, the levell, or lower parts of the Ile: It was first called Ethalia: It aboundeth so in Oranges and Lemmons, that they fill Barrels and Pipes with the juyce thereof, and carry them to Constantinople, which the Turkes use at their meate, as we doe the Verges. And also called Pythiosa; next Cios, Acts 20. 15. And by Methrodorus, Chio, or Chione: but at this day Sio. Not long agoe it was under the Genueses, but now governed by the Turkes: It is of circuite an hundreth miles, and famous for the medicinable Masticke that groweth there on Trees: I saw many pleasant Gardens in it, which yeeld in great plenty, Orenges, Lemmons, Apples, Peares, Prunes, Figges, Olives, Apricockes, Dates, Adams Apples, excellent hearbes, faire flowers, sweete Hony, with store of Cypre and Mulbery-trees, and exceeding good silke is made here.

At last I arrived at the Citty of Sio, where I was lodged, and kindly used with an old man, of the Genuesen race, for the space of eight dayes: I found here three Monasteries of the order of Rome, one of the Jesuits, another of Saint Francis, and the third of the Dominican Friers, being all come from Genoa; and because the greatest part of the Citty is of that stocke, and of the Papall Sea, these Cloysters have a braver life for good cheare, fat Wines, and delicate Leachery, than any sort of Friers can elsewhere find in the world.

The faire Dames of Sio.The Women of the Citty Sio, are the most beautifull Dames, (or rather Angelicall creatures) of all the Greekes, upon the face of the earth, and greatly given to Venery.