Читать книгу Mini Spicy Padang Cooking - William W. Wongso - Страница 4

Asam gelugor are dried slices of garcinia fruit that impart a sour flavor to dishes. Asam gelugor should be soaked in water to soften and rinsed before added either whole or sliced to other ingredients. If not available, replace with tamarind juice.

Banana leaf (daun pisang) is indispensable as a food wrapper, used to wrap food for steaming or grilling. The moisture within the banana leaf makes a difference to the texture and flavor of the food. Fresh banana leaf should be softened for easy folding before wrapping food in it, either by soaking it in hot water for 5 to 10 minutes or briefly heating it over low flame. If not available, replace with aluminium foil.

Candlenuts (kemiri), also known by its Malay name buah keras, are waxy, round cream-coloured nuts from the fruit of the candlenut tree. They are usually ground and added to sauces and spice paste for texture and flavor. Candlenuts should only be eaten after proper preparation. One method is to dry-roast the nuts over medium heat until they can be cracked open, then stir-fry the crushed kernels with other ingredients such as garlic, shallots and shrimp paste. Such a mixture is often used as a flavoring ingredient in Indonesia and most of Southeast Asia. Store in the refrigerator as candlenuts turn rancid quickly. Raw macadamia nuts can be used as substitutes.

Cardamom (kepulaga) is a pungent spice commonly used to perfume rice dishes, curries, cakes and desserts. Pale green, straw colored or black, the cardamom pods enclose about 15 to 20 intensely fragant brown or black cardamom seeds. Available as powder, seeds or whole pods, the best flavor is achieved by using the seeds removed from the pod directly. Ready-ground cardamom is not recommended as it loses its fragrance very quickly. Cardamom pods should be stored in a tightly-sealed jar to preserve their aroma.

Chilies (cabai) are indispensable in Padang cooking and many different varieties are used. The large moderately hot, finger-length green, red or yellow chilies are the most commonly used. Green chilies are the unripe fruits and have a flavor different from ripe red chilies. Dried chilies of this variety are also used in some dishes. They should be soaked in warm water to soften before grinding or blending. Hottest of all chilies are the tiny bird's eye chilies. As with all chilies, wash your hands thoroughly after handling and discard seeds for reduced heat.

Cloves (cengkeh) are small, brown, nail-shaped spice usually added whole to curries for flavor and aroma. Buy cloves whole or ground. For best flavor, grind your own using the "buds" only.

Coconut cream and coconut milk (santan) are used in many Asian desserts and curries. To obtain fresh coconut cream (which is normally used for desserts), grate the flesh of 1 coconut into a bowl (about 4 cups of grated coconut flesh), add 1 1/2 cup water and knead thoroughly a few times, then strain with a muslin cloth or cheese cloth. Thick coconut milk is obtained by the same method but by adding double the water to the grated flesh (about 1 cup instead of ½ cup). Thin coconut milk (which is used for curries rather than desserts) is obtained by pressing the coconut a second time, adding 1 cup of water to the same grated coconut flesh and squeezing it again. Although freshly pressed milk has more flavor, coconut cream and milk are now widely sold canned or in packets that are quick and convenient.

Coriander (ketumbar) is one of the most commonly used spices in Southeast Asia. The whole plant is used—the root, stem and leaves. The seeds are roasted and then ground in a spice mill and often used together with white pepper and cumin in curry pastes. Coriander leaves, also known as cilantro or Chinese parsley, have a distinctive smell and attractive appearance and are used for their fresh flavor, and as a garnish. Coriander root is a popular Thai seasoning. For storage, wash and dry the fresh leaves before placing them in a plastic bag in the refrigerator—they will keep for 5 to 6 days.

Cumin are similar in appearance to caraway seeds. Dark brown and ridged on the outside, the seeds are often roasted and ground before using. The earthy aroma is distinct. Its flavor is often likened to liquorice.

Dried shrimp paste (trassi) or belacan in Malay, is a dense mixture of fermented group shrimp. It is sold in dried blocks and ranges in color from pink to blackish-brown. Shrimp paste should be slightly roasted to enhance its flavor before adding to other ingredients. Traditionally, it is wrapped in banana leaves and roasted over embers for a few minutes. Now it is commonly roasted directly over low flame using tongs for 30 seconds or heated in a skillet, wrapped in aluminium foil, for 1 to 2 minutes. Alternatively it can also be microwaved very quickly in a bowl covered with plastic for 30 seconds or so. Do not overcook the shrimp paste or it will scorch, become bitter and hollow.

Galangal (laos) is a rhizome similar to ginger in appearance and a member of the same family. Known as kha in Thailand and lengkuas in Singapore and Malaysia, this aromatic root is used to flavor curries in much of Southeast Asia. Dried galangal lacks the fragrance of fresh galangal, and most food stores now sell it fresh. It can be sliced and kept sealed in the freezer for several months.

Kaffir lime is a small lime that has a very knobby and intensely fragrant skin, but virtually no juice. The skin or rind is often grated and added to dishes as a seasoning. The fragrant kaffir lime leaves (daun jeruk perut) are used whole or finely shredded in some Padang dishes, giving a wonderfully tangy taste to these dishes. Fresh leaves are available in most grocery stores and wet markets. Store fresh leaves in the freezer.

Lemongrass (serai), also known as citronella, is a lemon-scented stem which grows in clumps and is an important spice in flavoring curries and sauces. Each plant resembles a miniature leek. Use only the thicker bottom one third of the lemongrass stem. Remove and discard the dry outer leaves and use only the tender inner part of the plant. Lemongrass is available fresh, frozen or dried; fresh lemongrass is preferable because of its stronger smell and flavor.

Palm sugar is made from the distilled juice of various palm fruits (especially the coconut and arenga palms). Palm sugar varies in color from gold to dark brown. It has a rich flavor similar to dark brown sugar, molasses or maple syrup, which make good substitutes.

Pandanus leaves, also known as pandan leaves or screwpine leaves, are long thin leaves used to impart a delicate fragrance and sweet, grassy flavor into rice, cakes and desserts. They are also used as wrappers for seasoned morsels, cakes and desserts. Though they can be deep-frozen, always look for fresh leaves at the supermarkets. A few drops of bottled pandan or vanilla essence is a good substitute.

Petai beans (buah petai), also known as parkia beans or stinkbeans, are strong-smelling green beans sold either in the pod (about ten beans to a pod) or ready shelled and usually split in half lengthwise. Believed to be good for the kidneys and liver, petai beans may be eaten raw or cooked.

Potato patties for use in Beef Noodle Soup and Potato Patties (Soto Daging) on page 24: mash 350 g (12 oz) boiled potatoes; add 1 tablespoon deep-fried shallots and ½ teaspoon salt, shape into 8 small patties, dip in beaten egg and pan-fry in oil until golden brown.

Salam leaf (daun salam) is a large, dark green leaf that is added to curries. Rarely encountered outside Indonesia, it has no direct substitute and may be omitted if not available.

Sour carambola fruits (belimbing wuluh) are small pale green acidic fruits grow in clusters on the carambola tree. A relative of the sweeter starfruit, sour carambola fruits are used whole or sliced to give a sour tang to some soups, fish dishes and sambals. Sour grapefruit or tamarind juice can be used as a substitute.

Tamarind (asam Jawa) is a sour fruit that comes in a hard pod shell. Commonly available in the form of pulp, it can be bought fresh or dried. Tamarind juice is one of the major souring agents in most Southeast Asia cooking. To make tamarind juice, mix 1 tablespoon dried tamarind pulp with 2 tablespoons warm water to soften, then mash well and strain to remove any seeds and fibers (see asam gelugor).

Turmeric (kunyit) is a member of the ginger family. This rhizome has a very rich yellow interior (which can stain clothing and plastic utensils) and an emphatic flavor. When fresh it resembles ginger but it is usually sold in yellow powder form. When fresh tumeric is not available, substitute ½ teaspoon turmeric powder for 2 cm (½ in) fresh turmeric. Fresh turmeric leaves are also used in Padang cooking as a herb.