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basic ikebana techniques

The basic ikebana techniques that are essential in making Japanese-style arrangements are presented in this section. They include techniques related to water absorption, cutting, stabilizing, bending and shaping, trimming and maintenance.

It is important to decide what kind of impression you want to make with an arrangement. Inspiration and a will to create are very important, but very often your ideas will only be accomplished with the help of certain of the techniques. While you should not let mastering these techniques be your sole purpose, it is a fact that having a good grasp of them will enable you to have a greater understanding of what is possible in an arrangement and this will allow your imagination to reach its potential.

WATER ABSORPTION TECHNIQUES

Water intake is one of the most fundamental techniques for a flower arrangement. Water is essential for cut plants to stay fresh and beautiful as long as possible. It is important to know the characteristics of the plants and apply the appropriate method for treating each type of cut material.

1 CUTTING UNDER WATER (MIZUKIRI)

Among the various methods of ensuring water intake, this is the most commonly used technique. This easy method involves cutting the stem under water without exposing the cut end to air. Water pressure to the cut end forces more water into the stem. This also improves the floral material’s strength to draw up water. Every flower must be cut this way before being treated by any subsequent method.

Fill a bowl or small bucket with ample water. Place the stem under water and cut the bottom end diagonally, rather than straight across, to open a wide surface for water intake. After cutting, keep the stem in the water and do not remove until ready to arrange. Cutting under water prevents floral material from absorbing air through the cut end. Air in the stem blocks full water absorption up to the neck of the flowers and to the tips of leaves and branches, causing them to wilt. To revive wilted flowers and facilitate water absorption, re-cut the end of each stem under water.

The key for successful cutting lies in the scissors. If the scissors are not clean, bacteria may invade the cutting edge. Dull scissors will cause the stem to collapse. Always use clean and well-sharpened scissors.

The mizukiri technique can be used on almost all types of flower materials, especially flowers from bulbs (tulip and hyacinth) and stems that contain water (gerbera, poppy, anemone), or stems that are thin and which twist (blue lace flowers, scabiosa).

2 POUNDING AND CRUSHING ENDS

This method is applied to hard and fibrous branches and stems, such as maple, dogwood, spiraea, clematis and balloon cotton bush. With a hammer or the handle of a pair of scissors, pound the end of a branch or stem for about 5 cm (2 in) to open up a large area to be exposed to water. The cut end of a thick branch can also be split and torn away or shaved off to expose more of the inside fiber.

This treatment enlarges the surface area of water absorption. For a branch with fresh green leaves which does not draw up water well, peel off the bark after pounding the cut end to make a large water absorption area and set it in deep water. You can get the same results by splitting the end, or making a cross cut.

3 BOILING THE STEMS

Dip the cut end of a stem into hot water for 5–10 seconds, depending on the thickness, and then immediately put it into cold water and leave it for about 2 hours in a cool place. When the stem is in hot water, the air inside the duct expands and is expelled, leaving a vacuum. The stem then contracts in cold water and pressure develops for taking up water. The temperature difference accelerates water absorption.

When dipping stems into hot water, be careful that flowers and leaves are not exposed to the steam. Wrap floral materials in news paper and expose the stems only. Boiling water is most effective but hot water also works. A higher temperature helps kill bacteria.

This technique is effective for almost any kind of floral material, especially flowers that tend to wither easily as well as field flowers, including margaret, patrinia, hollyhock, amaranthus, dahlia, peony and rose. This method is not suitable for stems that contain water, as listed on page 8 in the section on cutting under water.

4 BURNING THE STEMS

Burn the bottom of a stem with fire to facilitate water absorption as well as kill bacteria. Wrap the blossoms and leaves in wet newspaper and char the cut ends over a flame. Burn them for 1–2 minutes until the ends glow red, then put them immediately into cold water.

This is a more effective method than the boiling because it produces a much higher temperature. It is important to char the end of the stem about 1–3 cm (1½ in) up, without damaging the flowers and leaves. If too much time is spent on burning stems, the heat reaches the flowers and makes them weak. Burn stems quickly over a kitchen gas burner or use a flame torch to char them efficiently.

An additional merit of this method is that carbonated stems function like charcoal and act as a purifier for the water in an arrangement.

This method is good for materials with hard stems, including roses, miniature roses, spray mums, poinsettias and peonies, but not effective for thick stems which contain a lot of moisture.

Cutting under water

Pounding and crushing

Splitting

Boiling

Burning

5 POURING WATER ON THE UNDERSIDE

Spraying water on the reverse side of leaves prevents loss of moisture and keeps flowers fresh. For this method, hold the materials upside down and dampen the backs of the leaves with a watering pot.

This method is mainly used for materials whose stems and leaves are perishable or become too weak to apply other water absorption techniques. It is also effective for spray mums, spray roses and herbs that have many small leaves on the stems.

6 IMMERSING IN DEEP WATER

By immersing the materials in deep water, the water pressure facilitates water absorption. Water always evaporates from the surface of the cut flowers. Floral materials with many leaves or those with weak water absorption capability cannot maintain the water balance only from water uptake at the end of the stem.

Prevent as much water evaporation as possible by wrapping the floral materials in newspaper and bending or curving the stems at the same time. After wrapping, spray water on the newspaper to prevent the water from evaporating. Leave the wrapped materials in deep water for at least an hour, preferably half a day, in a cool and dark place.

This method provides materials with effective water absorption. The deeper the water level, the easier it is for the water to go upward. However, be careful about the depth because flower petals touching the water are likely to be damaged.

This immersion technique is suitable for almost all materials except ones that have tiny flowers and leaves and are low in moisture. This method is effective for materials which naturally grow in damp soil, such as ranunculus, or stems that tend to bend due to large and heavy flower heads, such as roses and sunflowers.

7 USING NATURAL SUBSTANCES

In ikebana, people often use traditional substances to aid in water absorption, among them alum, vinegar, salt and alcohol. With some cut floral materials where it is very difficult to boost the amount of water absorption, special additives are needed. The methods below are effective for specific materials.

Burnt alum is effective for hydrangea, peony, hellebore (Christmas rose) and smoke tree. Put a pounded stem in water for about 10 seconds and then rub its pounded portion with burnt alum powder. Place the stem in deep water.

Vinegar is used for bamboo and bamboo grass as it prevents the leaves from drying out. Put the cut end of the stem in vinegar for about 20–30 seconds and then immerse it in water. This method is also effective for rice plant, reed grass and foxtail millet.

For plants such as allium, hyacinth, and lilac which contain mucus or milky sap, alcohol is used to enhance water absorption. Plant fluid at the end of a stem not only covers the absorption duct and prevents water intake but also makes the water in the container murky and causes the growth of bacteria. Alcohol neutralizes the fluids and cleanses the cut end. Dip the end of each stem in alcohol for about 5 minutes, then rub the end with your fingers to wash away the milky fluid. Leave it in deep water for at least 2 hours.

Pouring water.

Immersing in deep water.

Ikebana equipment.

CUTTING TECHNIQUES

Scissors are probably the single most essential tool for creating a flower arrangement. For a Japanese flower arrangement, Japanese-style scissors or hasami are used. Hasami scissors are now relatively easy to find outside of Japan. If they are not available, you can substitute them with Western floral scissors or multipurpose scissors available in hardware shops.

Use scissors for cutting most of the floral material. If you wish to cut very thick branches, use any type of blade, saw or hatchet, as appropriate.

Before sawing off tree branches outdoors, think about your final arrangement in order to avoid cutting off too much and wasting materials. Try not to damage the natural ecosystem by cutting more than you need.

SCISSORS (HASAMI) This type of scissor is called warabite-basami, meaning “fiddlehead fern-handled scissors” because the handles resemble young bracken shoots. These scissors serve various cutting purposes and can cut both slim stems and thick branches. They can also be purchased from shops that carry gardening products.

SAW AND HAMMER These tools are best used when cutting thick branches and for pounding the ends.

CUTTING A FLOWER STEM Cut a stem diagonally to make a wide area for effective water intake. When cutting, insert stems fully into the blades of the scissors. Thin stems can be neatly cut using the tips of the blades. It is easier to cut a thick stem by placing it deeper down into the scissor blades. When cutting a hollow stalk such as calla lily, place the stalk between the blades and rotate the stalk as you cut. Too much direct pressure from the blades will damage the soft tissue inside the stem.

CUTTING A BRANCH Cut a branch diagonally at the appropriate angle in order for the cut edge to rest flush against the inner wall of the container. Open the scissor handles wide, put the branch well inside the blades at an angle and cut.

When the branch is too thick to cut with a single motion of the scissors, place it well inside the blades and cut as deeply as you can. Remove the scissors and repeat the same motion until completely cut through. Another way of cutting a thick branch is to rotate the scissors down as you cut the outside, then breaking it off with both hands. A saw can be also used to cut a very thick branch.

HOW TO USE SCISSORS—HOLDING AND CUTTING

When the upper handle is gripped by the thumb and forefinger, the lower handle will fall down by gravity and open up the cutting blades of the scissors. Grasp the lower handle with all your fingers and squeeze to cut the stems and branches as you like. Handle scissors with care to avoid injuries, as the edges are sharp and the handles are hard and heavy.

Residue from plants causes the blades to rust. Wipe the blades with a cloth every time you use scissors. It is advisable to wash scissors to remove sticky residue after using and to dry them well and store in a case. Proper maintenance of scissors not only keeps them in good condition for a long time but also helps to increase the life of cut flowers.

STABILIZING TECHNIQUES

These techniques are used to set and support the flowers in a container. They are fundamental to making a long-lasting arrangement with a firm structure. Although many stabilizing techniques have been developed, two of the most common are a horizontal support (ichimonji-dome) and a cross support (jumonji-dome). Short stubs of branches are used for these stabilizing techniques.

When materials are inserted in a container without the use of these techniques, the stems are held in place by a corner or an edge of the container. Arranging in this manner causes materials to face outward and leaves an empty space in the center. Stabilizing techniques enable a stem to stand apart from the edge of the container or at a desired angle. They are highly recommended to allow you to express your imagination using few flower materials.

These techniques are often called “backstage” because they are normally not visible to viewers. A support should be placed deep inside the vase below the mouth. A cover-up technique, such as a naturally arranged leaf, can be used to disguise a stabilizing device.

1 DIRECT STAY (JIKA-DOME) This is the most basic technique. Many times stems can be fixed in place without using a support by cutting them diagonally. Place a flower inside the container with the diagonally cut end resting against the inside wall surface. The branch touches only two points of the vase: the rim and the inside wall of the vase. Cut the angle of the stem to fit flat against the inside wall of the vase to prevent slipping or rolling of the floral material.

Use this method in combination with other stabilizing techniques, such as a horizontal support or cross support.

Direct stay

Horizontal support

Cross support

Forked support

Connected support

2 HORIZONTAL SUPPORT (ICHIMONJI-DOME) This is one of the most basic stabilizing techniques. Cut a twig or stem slightly longer than the diameter of the mouth of the container and push it down horizontally to press against both sides and rest suspended in the middle of the container by its own tension. Materials can be placed to rest against this stay.

Rather than use a dried twig that will loosen, a young and flexible one is easier to handle and has more strength. As long as the twig or stem is firm enough to stay suspended against the inside wall of the vase, any kind of material works. You can pick it from your garden or you can use a part of your flower arrangement materials. Do not force the twig too hard into the container as this may damage it. This method (and the following two methods) requires force and should not be applied to vases of great value or old and fragile containers.

This technique is particularly suitable for a narrow and tall vase or for an arrangement with all the flowers placed facing one direction.

Natural coiled materials

Wire coil

3 CROSS SUPPORT (JUMONJI-DOME) This technique basically uses the same method as the above-mentioned horizontal support. All you need to do is to add another horizontal stay, crosswise, above the first horizontal stay. Crossed double stays are stronger than single stays and can thus support the floral materials better.

Apply this technique if you want to place the flower materials firmly in exactly the spot you desire inside the container.

In the arrangement, you need not fill all four quarter sections created by this cross support. For instance, by placing materials into only two open sections of the cross-support, the arrangement should be stable enough and the base of the arrangement will look neat.

4 FORKED SUPPORT (MATAGI-DOME) A two-pronged stay supports materials in the same way as the horizontal stay but by using a single V-shaped or Y-shaped branch. If such a jointed branch cannot be cut, the same result can be achieved by combining two twigs or stems. With this method, when the arrangement is seen from the front, it looks as though all the materials are rising from the same point.

5 CONNECTED SUPPORT (SOEGI-DOME) This method is useful when you want to make an arrangement with short-stemmed materials in a deep vessel. Select a sturdy branch and cut it shorter than the depth of the container. Slit the top of the branch and insert the flower into the slit. Place the flower connected to the supporting branch into the container. The entire arrangement is further stabilized if the ends of the flower stems are resting flat against the inside of the container.

When arranging branches, a stronger or thicker branch should be used as the supporting extension. Slit the ends of both branches and insert one end into the other. Adjust the branch for the arrangement at the angle you want. Make sure the cut ends of supported materials are touching the water.

6 NATURAL COILED MATERIALS Natural materials like twisted vines or branches can also be used for the same effect as wire. Bind a vine to create a sphere and insert the flowers into the small spaces between the branches. A support made of natural materials can be a part of the arrangement, and thus need not be hidden. Since the device is placed in the water, choose strong and non-perishable materials such as ivy, jasmine, clematis, honeysuckle and grapevine.

7 WIRE COIL Coiled wire can act as a stabilizing device inside a container. Loosely wind or twist into a sphere and place inside a container to hold plant materials. Choose wire that is strong enough to hold the materials but flexible enough to form into a ball with adequate spaces to insert flowers. This is an easy method and wire is available in most hardware stores. Apply this technique for a container with some depth so the wire can be hidden inside the container. Use non-rusting wire in colors that are close to the flower materials or the containers.

Dried branch as a stabilizer

Inner container for water

Hydrangea flower as a stabilizer

8 USING FLOWERS/LEAVES Even without specific tools, you can stabilize an arrangement using the materials themselves. For example, a stem’s own tension can support itself. Some materials placed first in a container can act as the stabilizer for other flower materials added later. Vines or branches that constitute the basic structure of the arrangement can also function as a stabilizer.

9 INNER CONTAINER FOR WATER (OTOSHI) For a wide-mouthed container, a common stabilizing technique is to put another separate container, usually a small bottle or cup, inside called otoshi. This inner container is used when the main container is a basket, a vase with a hole or a clay pot that cannot hold water. This method is also useful when a container is too big to completely fill with water or when there is a problem with the container leaking.

Floral water tube

10 FLORAL WATER TUBE A capped water tube is one of the implements often used to keep flowers fresh. The water tubes can provide water to fresh flowers when other means for providing water to the cut material are not practical. Using this convenient water holder, you can create a dramatic arrangement by showing a flower from an unexpected place.

Use only one flower per tube, and check it frequently to make sure that it contains enough water for the duration of the display.

11 ALTERNATIVE MATERIALS In addition to the stabilizing techniques mentioned above, certain organic materials can be used to support flowers in arrangements.

One of the biggest challenges in arranging is how to stabilize floral materials in a container with a wide opening. Standard flower stabilizing techniques, such as the kenzan pin holder, are in most cases too mechanical and are not meant to be seen. In order to complete the arrangement, artificial support devices need to be hidden.

Here are some examples of natural stabilizing materials/techniques that need not be hidden in an arrangement and can actually enhance it.

Alternative materials

• STONES Use a stone to hold stems upright. The stone must have enough weight to support the flowers. Be careful with the shape of the stone, as sharp edges may damage the container. A stone should harmonize with the container, so stock several kinds in different colors and sizes to enable you to have a good selection from which to choose. Stones can also be used to weigh down a container.

Even a hole or a crack in a stone can hold a stem. Using pieces or chunks of smoothed glass in a glass container is a similar approach.

• DRIFTWOOD OR DRIED BRANCHES These items are often used for ikebana. Set a piece of driftwood or other branch on or across a container and set flower stems against it. The wood can act as a part of the arrangement and add some movement and flow or dramatic accent. People who arrange ikebana favor branches with interesting curves and unusual shapes. Driftwood, obtained naturally from the ocean or beaches, contains sea salt. Soak it in water overnight and then dry it thoroughly in sunlight to prevent salt residue from damaging the flowers.

BENDING AND SHAPING TECHNIQUES

In ikebana, the technique known as tame is used to make an artificial curved line by physically bending the branches and stems into desired shapes. In order to make the most of the natural beauty of plant materials, this technique is recommended only for minor adjustments, especially in cases where the shape of the flower is slightly odd, or to allow materials to fit better into a container.

Most branches can be bent using both hands. Wrap your hands around a branch and hold it horizontally. Strongly support the bottom and top sides of the branch with the palm and fingers of one hand, while gently bending the branch with your other hand.

Some long leaves can be curved quite easily because the top surface stretches. Place the leaf between your thumb and other fingers and stretch the leaf. Apply pressure on the top and bottom at the same time.

The leaves of aspidistra, iris ochroleuca, calla lily, tulip and Dutch iris, as well as the branches of acacia and willow, are among the materials that are easiest to bend. When working with iris and many other leaves that have a center rib vein, place your fingers underneath the place where you wish to form a bend or curve. Tulips and Dutch irises are plants that have very soft inner stems and hold a great deal of liquid. Such stems can be both bent and straightened.

TECHNIQUES FOR BENDING AND SHAPING INCLUDE THE FOLLOWING:

BENDING A BRANCH (TAME) You can bend soft stems by lightly crushing them with your fingers. For hard stems, use the handles of the scissors to pound them.

BREAKING A BRANCH (ORI-DAME) This technique is used for harder branches. Bend the branch by slightly breaking it. Use scissors first to make a shallow cut in a branch about one-third of the diameter at the spot to be bent. Then, with your hands, bend the branch gradually on the opposite side from the incision.

TWISTING A LEAF (NEJIRI-DAME) Leaves that turn back or look unnatural can be gently twisted into the desired direction.

STROKING (SHIGOKI-DAME) This is a technique of bending and shaping by rubbing the leaves and stems to correct the curve direction. Place both hands on the area to be bent, and gently adjust the shape. If necessary, make the same action repeatedly to achieve the desired shape. Be careful not to damage the surface of the leaves. When this technique is applied to narcissus leaves and calla lily stems, gently pull or stretch them at the same time to achieve a graceful shape.

TRIMMING TECHNIQUES

In ikebana, the aesthetic appeal of a plant can be maximized by selective cutting. The way floral material is cut for an arrangement also provides an insight into the person who makes the selection and arranges it.

If many branches are used together in an arrangement, the character of the individual branches is diminished while the overall impression of the materials is accentuated. On the other hand, if only a single material is used, either a branch or a flower, the material speaks for itself with its shape or color. It is fun and interesting to discover your own preference for shapes among the many floral materials available and to make the most of their qualities in an arrangement.

The trimming technique described below is designed to help you identify and make the most beautiful part of a branch stand out.

Hold a branch and study its overall shape. Carefully look at how the branch naturally grows and in which direction it is facing. When the branch has too many leaves and sub-branches, select the portions you want to retain and the parts you want to eliminate in order to bring out its beauty. Cut and trim the leaves and sub-branches, little by little, until the branch becomes more attractive to your eyes.

Notice the neat and attractive final form.

MAINTENANCE TECHNIQUES

A desirable environment for a flower is low temperature (2–6º C/36–43º F, except for tropical flowers) and high humidity (80–90%). In such an environment, flowers maintain slower respiration, lower perspiration and less energy consumption. These conditions prolong the life of flowers. Although it is not always possible to provide such an ideal environment at home, you should try to put the flowers in an optimal environment to allow them to rest, at least at night or while you are away from home.

To keep cut flowers healthy, it is important to balance the water evaporating from the leaves and that being absorbed by the stems. High temperatures, dry air and direct sunlight all upset the balance. Keep flowers away from places where water tends to evaporate, such as a windowsill that receives direct sunlight and wind, or near the air current of an air conditioner. In addition, keep flowers away from ripe fruit and cigarette smoke because ethylene generated from these things make flowers wither quickly. Paying attention to the environment around the placement affects the condition of the floral arrangement and makes all the difference to its lifespan.

In order to enjoy an arrangement for as long as possible, and thereby witness the evolution of the flowers‘ life whose intrinsic beauty changes with each day, you need to take care of the arrangement every single day. Organic matter, which is constantly secreted from the cut ends of the stems, is transferred to the water in the container and causes bacteria to propagate. Such bacteria clogs up the ducts and hastens the demise of the flowers.

To protect cut flowers from bacteria, two treatments are essential—water change and stem trimming, both on a daily basis. Through these treatments, fresh water and nutrients are transferred to all parts of the flowers and their life is extended amazingly.

Glass tableware

WASHING THE STEMS When the surface of a flower stem is slimy, it is because the stem has started to decay and is growing bacteria. Decay causes the stem’s duct to clog. Wash the stems thoroughly each time the water is changed in an arrangement to get rid of the bacteria.

TRIMMING THE STEMS Apply the mizukiri technique (pages 8–9) for this treatment. Cut the end of the stem by 1–2 cm (³⁄8 – ¾ in) under clean water. By cutting the part of the duct filled with bacteria and scum to create a fresh cut end, the stem’s water absorption capability will rejuvenate.

Naturally, trimmed stems become shorter and shorter. The shorter the stem gets, the easier it absorbs water. You can enjoy flowers for a long time by removing finished flowers and redoing the arrangement, although you must regard it as almost a new arrangement. Because of the constant trimming, the total balance of the arrangement will gradually change and become different from the original.

WASHING THE CONTAINER A container that is not clean will make the water cloudy. Some invisible grime, such as scum from a prior arrangement, is often attached to the surface of a container that has not been used for a while. Such a container, if used as it is, may promote the growth of bacteria.

Wash the container with detergent and soak it well in clean water before using it for an arrangement. Also, at the time of arranging, add some drops of bleach to the water to prevent bacteria from growing. Wash the inside bottom of a container with extra care, since residue tends to remain in this area. After washing the container, let it drip dry naturally rather than use a towel that may add dust to the clean container.