Читать книгу Graphic USA - Ziggy Hanaor - Страница 37

BALTIMORE, MARYLAND BY ELIZABETH GRAEBERI am a Baltimore native, and although I am currently living in Washington DC, I’ll always consider Baltimore my home. One of its many nicknames is Charm City, and despite its mixed reputation, the wacky charm of Baltimore, complete with a big beehive hairdo and a cigarette hanging out if its fluorescent pink lips, is still very much alive. A few facts: Geographically, it’s right on the north/south state divide, and its culture reflects that, with a warm, friendly population, great crabcakes, and a strong working class tradition. Crime is an issue (most famously depicted in the TV series The Wire), particularly on the West Side of the city, and nightlife can range from quirkily divey to rough as hell, depending on where you end up. On the other hand, the city is going through quite a bit of yuppification, with artists drawn to the cheap rents and warehouse spaces in previously poor neighborhoods like Hampden and Highlandtown. A lot of the rowhouses that make up Baltimore’s distinctive streetscape are being done up in those areas, and left derelict and boarded up in others. Public transport is not as good as it should be, but most of the interesting neighborhoods are easily walkable. The ones to visit are: Federal Hill, a historic neighborhood with a mixed population of blue collar old-timers and young professionals. It overlooks Inner Harbor and has the lovely Cross Street Market and lots of restaurants. On the other side of the harbor, you’ll find Fells Point and Canton, with cute cobblestone streets, interesting shops, the old recreation pier and bars selling the infamous local brew, Natty Boh. Leading north from the harbor is Charles Street – the main drag of the city. Take a stroll up it, and you’ll get a sense of Baltimore’s diverse architecture, as well as finding plenty of galleries, restaurants and shops. At the top you’ll find Johns Hopkins University, and the funky student neighborhoods (including Charles Village and the aforementioned Hampden), that surround it. There’s lots to love and hate about Baltimore. It’s down and dirty, a little bit scummy, totally American, and lots of fun. One thing for sure, it’s got a lot of character. 37 Baltimore, MD