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VALLE DI PRIMIERO AND SAN MARTINO DI CASTROZZA

Map

(all routes) Tabacco Carta Topographica 1:25,000 Sheet 022

Tourist Information Office

APT Fiera di Primiero, Via Dante 6, 38054 Fiera di Primiero, Italy (TN)

Tel: 0439.62407

Fax: 0439.62992

E-mail: infoprimiero@sanmartino.com

Tourist Information Office

APT San Martino Di Castrozza, Via Passo Rolle 165, 38054 San Martino Di Castrozza, Italy (TN)

Tel: 0439.768867

Fax: 0439.768814

E-mail: info@sanmartino.com

Internet (both offices): www.sanmartino.com

Pala di San Martino is a stunning group of mountains with a number of high-quality and serious via ferratas. There is an abundance of accommodation in the Primiero valley, with Fiera di Primiero at its southern end and San Martino di Castrozza to the north both providing a full range of facilities, including accommodation to suit all pockets. A two-stage lift system from S. Martino gives easy access to the north-western area of the group. There are large and helpful tourist offices in both resorts, as detailed above. Local mountain guides attend the S. Martino office each evening from 1730 to 1930hrs (or tel. 0439.768795, www.aquilesanmartino.com, Email info@aquilesanmartino.com, Cellphone +39 342 981 3212). There are three campsites: Camping Sass Maor, Via Laghetto 48, San Martino, tel. 0439.68347, email info@campingsassmaor.it; Camping Castelpietra Val Canali, Transaqua, tel. 0439.62426, email info@castelpietra.it; Campeggio Calavise, Imer, tel. 0439.67468, www.campingcalavise.it. Fiera di Primiero has a sports centre which includes an indoor swimming pool that opens at 1500hrs seven days a week throughout the summer.

The routes in the Pala resemble a giant game of snakes and ladders, with any number of permutations available for combining routes. In stable weather, the Pala mountains are superb for multi-day trips using rifugios to stay high up in the mountains and to link combinations of routes. Your choice is likely to depend on your transport arrangements; if you have a car, then you will probably select a circuit, whereas if you are using public transport, or are on a hutting tour, then you will perhaps choose a traverse.


The soaring peaks of the southern Pala group, dominated by Sass Maor, seen from the west

For simplicity each ferrata in this section is described as a discrete entity, providing an explanation of how it can be linked with other routes. Where one route is generally used in ascent, and the other in descent, the most suitable way of completing the circuit is recommended. You can then choose your own combination of routes depending on fitness, weather and the time you have available.

Suggested Combinations of Routes

S.MAR 1 and 2 are complementary, but can be climbed separately.

S.MAR 3 – S.MAR 9 are in the central area of the Pala, between Rif. Rosetta and Val Canali. These seven routes offer numerous combinations: the best are as follows.


 Combine S.MAR 4 and 3 as a circuit from Rif. Rosetta, or climb either S.MAR 3 or S.MAR 4 individually and then use S.MAR 6 as the descent route.

 S.MAR 5 is generally climbed with S.MAR 6 used as the descent route.

 S.MAR 6 is not often climbed, usually being used as a descent for the S.MAR 3, 4 or 5 routes.

 S.MAR 7 goes up to Rif. Velo and can easily be climbed up and down in the same day. Alternatively, use S.MAR 7 as a descent after climbing S.MAR 8 or S.MAR 9.

 S.MAR 8 is normally climbed in a clockwise circuit, using S.MAR 9 as the descent route (although S.MAR 7 could also be used as the descent).

 S.MAR 9 is normally used as the descent route from S.MAR 8, but it could be used as an ascent route, with S.MAR 7 (or even S.MAR 8) as the descent.

At the end of Val Canali, on its eastern side you will find the remaining three routes in this section, S.MAR 10, 11 and 12. They are climbed as follows.

S.MAR 10 is an ascent route with S.MAR 11 as descent.

S.MAR 12 is a short, stand-alone route.

Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vol 2

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