Читать книгу French Dishes for American Tables - active 1886-1899 Pierre Caron - Страница 3

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1. Consommé, or Stock. Put in a stock-pot a roast fowl (or the carcass and remains of a fowl), a knuckle of veal, three pounds of beef, and three quarts of water. When the scum begins to rise, skim carefully until it quite ceases to appear. Then add a carrot, a turnip, an onion, a leek, two cloves, a little celery, and a little salt. Simmer very gently four hours. Remove every particle of grease, and strain through a flannel kept for the purpose. This soup is the foundation of most soups and sauces. To clarify: when necessary that the soup should be very clear, clarify it in the following manner: Put in a saucepan a pound of chopped raw beef (off the round is preferable), which mix with an egg and two glasses of water, and pour into your consommé. Simmer very gently for an hour, and strain.

2. Bouillon, or Beef Broth. Put into a stock-pot three pounds of a shin of beef, one pound of a knuckle of veal, and three quarts of water, and simmer gently. As soon as the scum begins to rise, skim carefully until it quite ceases to appear. Then add salt, two carrots, the same of onions, leeks, turnips, and a little celery. Simmer gently four hours, strain, and serve.

3. Bouillon Maigre. Take six medium-sized carrots, as many turnips, a bunch of celery, and two leeks. Boil them in water for a few moments, drain, put them in cold water for a moment, after which put them into three quarts of water, adding two cloves, and boil gently three hours. Add a little salt, put through a sieve, heat again on the fire, and serve.

4. Bouillon Maigre of Fish. Put into three quarts of water two pounds of black bass, two pounds of pike, and one pound of eels. Add to these two onions, two carrots, one head of celery, two cloves, and a little salt. Simmer gently for two hours, and strain. This bouillon is used as a foundation for all soups and sauces composed of fish.

5. Pot-au-Feu. Put into a saucepan three quarts of water, two pounds of beef cut in slices, a fowl partially roasted, a knuckle of veal, and a little salt. Simmer gently, and as soon as boiling begins, skim carefully. Add two carrots, two turnips, two leeks, a few branches of celery, an onion stuck with two cloves, and boil four hours. Drain your vegetables carefully, remove every particle of grease from your soup, strain, pour it over your vegetables, and serve.

6. Soup à la Julienne (Vegetable Soup). Divide two medium-sized carrots in two, then cut into very thin slices of about an inch long; take the same quantity of turnips, leeks, onions, and a few pieces of celery, all cut into thin slices, and put them into a saucepan, with a piece of good butter, on a gentle fire, stir softly until the vegetables begin to color slightly, add three pints of consommé (or stock, Art. 1), and boil gently one hour. Ten minutes before serving put in three or four leaves of lettuce, the same of sorrel, and a little chervil chopped up, boil a little longer, adding a pinch of sugar, and a tablespoonful of green peas previously boiled.

7. Soup à la Printanière. This soup is made exactly as the foregoing, except with the addition of asparagus-tops to the other vegetables, which, instead of being in slices, are cut out in fancy shapes with a vegetable-cutter, which may be procured at any hardware-shop.

8. Soup à la Brunoise. Cut into square pieces, as small as possible, a carrot, a turnip, an onion, a leek, and a few pieces of celery. Stew gently in a saucepan with a little butter, stir softly until beginning to color lightly, drain, and put into three pints of consommé (see Art. 1), which boil gently for an hour, skim off the grease carefully, and serve.

9. Soup à la Paysanne. Take two tablespoonfuls of white beans, the same of green peas. Cut in slices a carrot, a little celery, a turnip, a leek, a cucumber, and a few string-beans; add a dozen little onions and a pinch of sugar. Put these into three pints of consommé (or stock), which boil gently an hour. Before serving you may add a few pieces of bread cut in small squares and fried in butter.

10. Soup with (farcied) Lettuce. Boil ten moderate-sized lettuce, then dip them in cold water, drain and press the water from them. Separate them in two, season with a little pepper and salt, then lay a tablespoonful of farce on the half of one lettuce, and cover with the other half. Wrap up each lettuce with a piece of very thin larding pork, place them carefully in a saucepan containing half a pint of consommé (or stock, Art. 1), and a few branches of parsley, inclosing a clove of garlic, three pepper-corns, three cloves, and tie all together. After boiling gently an hour, drain the lettuce, remove the larding pork, the parsley, and its seasoning. Have boiling three pints of consommé (Art. 1), into which place your lettuce, and serve. It would be well to tie the larding pork around the lettuce, so that the farce should not escape.

11. Farce. Place in a saucepan four ounces of very fresh bread-crumbs and a cup of consommé (or stock, Art. 1). Simmer gently for ten minutes, at the end of which time stir constantly with a wooden spoon, and boil for ten minutes longer, so as to form a soft paste. This done, put it on a plate to cool. Take four ounces of the breast of a chicken, from which remove the skin and sinews, and pound extremely fine. Add to this your bread-crumbs, in quantity about three quarters as much as you have of chicken, and pound together until well mixed; season with a little salt and white pepper, a very little nutmeg, and a piece of butter. Then pound again, adding by degrees two eggs, until you have obtained a fine, smooth paste. This mixture is used for all farces of chicken. Veal, fish, and game are treated in the same manner. Quenelles are also made of this mixture, by forming it into small balls, and poaching them in boiling water for two minutes.

12. Sorrel Soup (clear). Wash a good handful of sorrel, which chop up together with a lettuce and a teaspoonful of chopped chervil, and put in a saucepan with half an ounce of butter. When beginning to color lightly, add three pints of consommé (or stock, Art. 1), and boil gently twenty minutes. Add a pinch of sugar, and skim the grease carefully from your soup. Serve with small squares of bread fried in butter a light brown.

13. Cucumber Soup with Green Peas. Cut two cucumbers in small pieces, and, adding a pinch of sugar, cook in a little stock for about half an hour, then add a pint of green peas, previously boiled, and serve in three pints of consommé (or stock, Art. 1).

14. Soup à la Pluche de Cerfeuil (Chervil Soup). Fry in butter pieces of bread cut in small squares, after which drain them. Pick and clean a handful of chervil, and, taking only the ends of the leaves, serve, together with bread, in three pints of consommé.

15. Potage aux Pointes d'Asperges (Asparagus Soup). Take from two bunches of asparagus only the small green ends, wash them, and then put them in a saucepan in boiling water with a little salt, and a very little soda, so as to make them very green. Then, having thoroughly boiled them, put them for a moment in cold water, drain, and serve them in three pints of consommé (Art. 1), and add small squares of bread fried in butter.

16. Croûtes au Pot. Cut a carrot, a turnip, and a few pieces of celery in small pieces, blanch them in hot water, drain them, and boil with three pints of consommé (or stock, Art. 1); take four French rolls, which divide in two, taking out all the soft part, and butter the inside. Put them in the oven, and, as soon as they become browned, serve them in your consommé, with the addition of a tablespoonful of green peas previously boiled.

17. Consommé with Poached Eggs. Put in a saucepan with some boiling water a tablespoonful of vinegar and a pinch of salt, in which poach eight eggs. Then take them out and put them in cold water, so as to pare the whites perfectly round, lay them again in hot water for a moment, and serve in three pints consommé (Art. 1).

18. Consommé Royal. Break into a bowl two eggs, with which mix thoroughly half a glass of milk. Butter a little saucepan, into which strain your eggs and milk. Then put your saucepan into a flat pan, which you have half filled with boiling water, and place in a moderate oven for about thirty minutes. Take it out to cool, and when cold, cut in little squares, and serve in three pints of consommé (see Art. 1). If desired, add a handful of green peas, a few thin slices of carrots, a few string-beans cut in diamond-shapes, or a few green ends of asparagus, all previously boiled.

19. Soup à la Princesse. Boil a fowl in a little stock for two hours. Take it out and let it become cold. Boil two tablespoonfuls of barley, which afterward put in cold water for a moment. Also boil about a handful of green peas. Cut the chicken into small pieces, after having carefully removed all skin, and put into three pints of consommé (see Art. 1 ), together with the barley and peas, boil for five minutes and serve.

20. Beef Soup. Boil two ounces of barley with a little salt for ten minutes, then put in cold water for a moment, cut into small squares four ounces of cold beef, which, with the barley, and about an eighth of a can of tomatoes, boil for ten minutes in three pints of consommé (or stock, Art. 1), and serve.

21. Vermicelli Soup. Take four ounces of vermicelli, which boil in hot water for twenty minutes, then put in cold water for a moment and drain. Put three pints of consommé (Art. 1) in a saucepan, and, as soon as it begins to boil, pour in the vermicelli; boil for ten minutes, and serve.

22. Vermicelli Soup with Green Peas. Prepare as the foregoing, and just before serving add eight tablespoonfuls of green peas previously boiled.

23. Farina Soup. Add to three pints of boiling consommé (or stock, Art. 1) two ounces of farina by degrees, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, so as to prevent thickening into lumps, and, after boiling gently twenty minutes, serve.

24. Arrowroot Soup. Put in a saucepan four teaspoonfuls of arrowroot, which moisten with a little cold stock, so as to form a smooth paste; then add to it three pints of hot stock, taking care to stir with a spoon from time to time, so as not to stick to the saucepan, and, after boiling gently twenty minutes, serve.

25. Soup with Italian Paste. Take four ounces of Italian paste and blanch in boiling water with a little salt for twenty minutes. Drain, and put in three pints of consommé (see Art. 1), boil for ten minutes, and serve.

26. Sago Soup. Take two ounces of sago, which boil gently in three pints of consommé (see Art. 1) for thirty minutes, taking care to stir constantly with a spoon; serve.

27. Tapioca Soup. Put in three pints of consommé (Art. 1) four ounces of tapioca, which stir constantly; boil for forty minutes, and serve.

28. Potage de Nouilles (Noodle Soup). Take four ounces of flour, very little salt, and two yolks of eggs, with which make a tolerably firm paste. Roll it out very thin, taking care to sprinkle some flour on the table, so that the paste does not stick. Fold it in two; cut it in very thin slices of about an inch long, and blanch them in boiling water ten minutes; after which put in cold water for a moment, drain, and serve in three pints of boiling consommé (see Art. 1).

29. Soup with Rice. Take four ounces of rice, which wash well, then boil for ten minutes, and put in cold water for a moment. Boil the rice in three pints of consommé (see Art. 1) for forty minutes; skim and serve.

30. Rice Soup à la Créole. Take six ounces of rice, which prepare as the foregoing, and ten minutes before serving add about an eighth of a can of tomatoes, and a little cayenne pepper; boil for a moment, and serve.

31. Chicken Consommé. Take a chicken, cut it in pieces and put in a saucepan with two quarts of water, and let it simmer gently until the scum begins to rise, skim until every particle is removed; then add salt, a carrot, an onion, a turnip, and a little celery. Boil gently for two hours, strain, and serve.

32. Chicken Giblet. Cut a chicken, an onion, and a little ham, each in small pieces. Put all together, in a saucepan, on the fire, and add half an ounce of butter. When beginning to color slightly, add three points of consommé (see Art. 1), and a pinch of rice; and, after boiling three quarters of an hour, add two tablespoonfuls of tomatoes, boil five minutes longer, and serve.

33. Chicken Gumbo. Cut in very small squares one ounce of raw ham and an onion, which put in a saucepan, with a piece of butter, and the wings of a chicken cut in small pieces. When beginning to color slightly, add three pints of consommé (or stock, Art. 1) and a pinch of barley. Boil an hour. Half an hour before serving, put in ten okra-pods cut in slices, five tablespoonfuls of tomatoes, and a little red pepper.

34. Chicken Okra, with Oysters. Prepare as the foregoing, without the barley. Blanch two dozen oysters, which drain, and add to your soup just before serving.

35. English Mutton Broth. Take half a pound of cold mutton and an onion, cut each in very small pieces, and put in a saucepan with half an ounce of butter. When beginning to color slightly, add three pints of consommé (or stock, Art. 1), a carrot, and a turnip, cut in small even pieces. Boil an hour, skim off the grease, and just before serving add two ounces of barley previously boiled.

36. Mullagatawny Soup. Cut into small pieces an onion, a carrot, a few pieces of celery, and a slice of ham, which put in a saucepan on a moderate fire, with half an ounce of butter, until they begin to color slightly. Add one quart of consommé (or stock, Art. 1) and boil for an hour; add a pinch of curry, a little mullagatawny paste, which moisten with a little cold stock, and, after adding a pint of stock, boil for five minutes, and serve. Cold mutton, veal, or chicken, cut in small pieces, may be added to this if desired.

37. French Ox-tail Soup. Cut an ox-tail in small pieces, also an onion, and put in a saucepan with a little butter. When they begin to color slightly, add three pints of consommé (or stock) and boil gently for two hours. Skim off the grease, add one ounce of barley which you have previously boiled, and about an eighth of a can of tomatoes; boil ten minutes, and serve.

38. English Ox-tail Soup. Proceed as for the foregoing, except instead of consommé add three pints of Spanish sauce (see Art. 80), with very little thickening. Boil for two hours, and add a little barley, a little salt, a carrot, previously boiled and cut in slices, and four tablespoonfuls of tomatoes. Twenty minutes before serving add a good glass of sherry, boil for a moment, and serve.

39. Mock-Turtle Soup. Take a scalded calf's head, boil it in hot water for twenty minutes, drain, and put it in cold water. Then place it in a saucepan with three quarts of water, a carrot, an onion, four cloves, three cloves of garlic, a few branches of parsley, a tablespoonful of vinegar, and a little salt. Mix well three tablespoonfuls of flour in a little water, which add to the other ingredients and boil gently for an hour and a half. Drain, and when cold cut the calf's head into small pieces. Then add three pints Spanish sauce (see Art. 80), boil gently twenty minutes, and, just before serving, also add one good glass of sherry, a little red pepper, and two hard-boiled eggs chopped up, the yolks and whites separately, and the peel of a lemon cut in small pieces.

40. Calf's-feet Soup. Blanch two calf's feet for ten minutes, then put them in cold water for a moment. Afterward place them in a saucepan, with an onion, a carrot, a pinch of thyme, a bay-leaf, a clove of garlic, a little parsley, the juice of a lemon, and a little salt. Boil about an hour, or until very tender, and let them cool. Then cut the calf's feet in small pieces, which put in three pints of boiling consommé (or stock), with the addition of two wineglasses of sherry, and serve.

41. American Green-Turtle Soup. Take a turtle, and let it bleed for six hours, taking care that the head hangs downward. Then divide the two shells, pressing your knife on the lower one so as not to disturb the intestines, which take entire and throw immediately away. Detach the fins and fleshy parts, putting aside any not needed for the soup, and which may be put to use afterward in an entrée, or broiled. After having cleaned them put them in a saucepan, with a sufficient quantity of water to cover them. Boil them, taking care to see from time to time that the shells of the fins detach themselves. Put them in cold water for a moment, drain, and cut them in small pieces, which place in a saucepan, with three pints of consommé (or stock, Art. 1). Boil gently for three hours, add four glasses of sherry and some Spanish sauce (see Art. 80). Boil hard four eggs, pound the yolks, adding a little salt and pepper, and the yolk of a raw egg. Form this mixture into little balls, putting a little flour on your hands to roll them. Poach them in boiling water, throw them into your soup, and, after boiling an instant, serve.

42. Green-Turtle Soup à la Londonderry. Proceed as for the foregoing, but instead of Spanish sauce add three pints of consommé (or stock, Art. 1) and a glass of sherry. Boil gently half an hour, and serve.

43. Terrapin Soup. Take a live terrapin, and, removing the claws, soak in boiling water for about three minutes. With a cloth remove the shells, and, proceeding as for the green turtle, cut it in small pieces and boil it in consommé (stock, Art. 1). When the terrapin is cooked, add some Spanish sauce (Art. 80), with two glasses of sherry, boil gently for twenty minutes, make some little balls prepared in the manner described in green-turtle soup (Art. 41), and serve in your soup.

44. Soup à la d'Orsay. Wash the ends of a bunch of asparagus, which boil with a little salt and a very little soda, drain them and put them into cold water. Press them through a sieve, add two yolks of raw eggs and three pints of consommé (stock), and, when boiling, a pinch of sugar and an ounce of butter. Take the breasts of two roast pigeons, then add to your soup when serving, and eight small eggs, which boil soft (but sufficiently hard to remove the shells), and serve in your soup.

45. Soup aux Quenelles de Volaille. Prepare some quenelles (see Art. 11) and serve them in three pints of consommé (Art. 1).

46. Consommé Rachel. Spread on a sheet of tin half a pound of farce (Art. 11) of chicken (Art. 11) and put in the oven for three or four minutes. Put it aside to cool, and then with a cutter for the purpose form into round flat shapes. Place in a saucepan four ounces of flour, which mix in three pints of cold consommé (Art. 1), boil gently for half an hour, stirring with a spoon from time to time, so that it does not stick to the saucepan. Strain, remove from the fire, and add three yolks of eggs which you have mixed in a little water, a tablespoonful of green peas previously boiled, the small rounds of chicken farce, and serve.

47. Rye Soup à l'Allemande. Wash well half a pound of rye, and add three pints of consommé (stock, Art. 1), a few pieces of celery, three leeks, a little salt and pepper, and boil gently three hours. Remove the leeks and celery, and cut in very thin slices as for Julienne soup. Mix two ounces of flour in a little cold consommé, which pour into your soup with your vegetables, taking care to stir well with a spoon. Add a pinch of sugar, boil an hour, skim, and serve.

48. Giblet Soup of Goose. Take the giblets of a goose, which cut in small pieces. Singe and remove the skin from the feet, and cut them in small pieces, as also four ounces of larding pork. Put all together in a saucepan, with one ounce of butter, and, when beginning to color brown, add two ounces of flour, and boil for five minutes. Then add three pints of consommé (stock), two green onions, a very little thyme, a clove of garlic, two cloves, a bay-leaf, and a little mace, around which put a few branches of parsley, and tie all together. Carefully remove all grease from your soup, add a wineglass of sherry, and serve.

49. Soup à la Bohemienne. Cut a carrot in very small pieces, which put in a saucepan with an ounce of butter. When beginning to color lightly, add three pints of consommé (stock, Art. 1), boil for half an hour, skim, add a pint of peas, a pinch of sugar, pepper, and nutmeg. When your peas are cooked, make a paste with three ounces of flour, two yolks of eggs, one whole egg, a glass of cream, and a little salt and nutmeg. Put through a sieve into your soup, which must be boiling on the fire, stir with a spoon, boil for ten minutes, add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and serve.

50. Soup with Poached Eggs à la Styrie. Take three pints of consommé (stock, Art. 1), which boil, and add thereto, by degrees, two ounces of semolina, stirring constantly with a spoon. Poach in boiling water with a little salt, and a tablespoonful of vinegar, six eggs, which put into cold water. Blanch a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, which add to your soup, with three quarters of a pint of green peas, and, lastly, your poached eggs, which, just before serving in your soup, place in hot water for an instant.

51. English Hare Soup. Cut a young hare in small pieces, which put in a saucepan with four ounces of lard, cut in small squares, two ounces of butter, and, when beginning to color brown, add one ounce of flour, half a bottle of claret, and a quart of consommé (stock, Art. 1). Season with a little thyme, a bay-leaf, two onions, a dozen mushrooms, two cloves, a little salt, pepper, mace, and a very little cayenne. Boil, and then remove your saucepan to the back of the range to simmer gently. Take off all grease most carefully, and, when your hare is thoroughly done, strain your consommé and serve with the hare.

52. Soup of Sturgeon à la Pierre Legrand. Take one pound of pike, one of perch, and the same of eels, which put into a saucepan, with an onion cut in slices, a carrot, a clove of garlic, a very little thyme, and a bay-leaf. Cut up your fish, add four wineglasses of sherry, boil until all moisture is absorbed, add three pints of consommé (stock, Art. 1 ), boil for one hour, and press through a sieve. Take two pounds of sturgeon, and boil gently with a carrot, an onion, a slice of ham, salt, pepper, a small garlic, a pint of consommé, and a glass of sherry. Make a farce of quenelles (see Art. 11), form in small balls, which poach in hot water. Add them to the slices of sturgeon, also the ends of a bunch of asparagus, previously boiled, and two tablespoonfuls of chervil, chopped very fine. Strain the liquid in which your sturgeon was boiled, add to the essence of fish prepared above, boil for a few moments, and serve.

53. Clam Chowder à la Thayer. Put half a pound of fat salt pork in a saucepan, let it fry slowly, and then remove it from the fire and put it aside to cool. Chop up fine fifty large hard-clams, also half a can of tomatoes, a handful of celery, the same of parsley, a quart of onions, half a dozen pilot-biscuit, a little thyme, and two quarts of potatoes cut up in pieces about as large as a five-cent piece. Put the saucepan in which you have your pork again on the fire, add first the onions, and then the other ingredients, with the juice of the clams, and enough water to cover. Add black pepper, a little salt, and an eighth of a pint of Worcestershire sauce. Stir from the bottom so as to avoid burning, and simmer gently until the potatoes are thoroughly done. When the chowder begins to boil, you may add boiling water if you find it too thick. Five minutes before serving, add half a lemon sliced thin.

54. Olla Podrida (Spanish Soup). Put in a saucepan two pounds of beef, a pint of dwarf or chick peas, which you have previously soaked in water for six hours. Then blanch in boiling water for twenty minutes half a pound of bacon and half a pound of raw ham, which add to the other ingredients, with enough water to cover them. Skim carefully, and, after boiling gently two hours, add a fowl, a carrot, an onion, a clove of garlic, two cloves, and two bay-leaves, which inclose in some branches of parsley, tying all together. Boil again for an hour, adding two smoked sausages (choricos), which may be found at any Italian grocery, and a cabbage previously blanched. Continue boiling gently for two hours; soak a pinch of saffron in water, strain it into your soup on the fire, and boil thirty minutes longer, until the ingredients become yellow. Strain your soup, remove the meats, drain, arrange as neatly as possible on a dish, and serve with the soup.

55. Bouillabaisse à la Marseillaise. Put into a saucepan an onion chopped very fine, with a tablespoonful of oil. When beginning to color slightly, cut in slices half a pound of pike, the same of perch, flounder, eel, and lobster, which wash and clean well. Place them in a saucepan with parsley, two chopped cloves of garlic, some pepper and salt, a little nutmeg, and a pinch of saffron, which mix in two tablespoonfuls of water, and strain into your saucepan. Moisten with three pints of fish-broth (see Art. 4), two tablespoonfuls of oil, and a wineglass of sherry. Boil on a quick fire for twenty minutes. Take some rather thick pieces of bread, over which pour the liquid in which your fish was boiled, and serve the fish on a separate dish.