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INTRODUCTION

A Long Distance Mountain Bike Trail

The GTMC (full title ‘Grande Traversée du Massif Central’ in French) is a long-distance mountain bike trail in France that crosses the huge, largely remote area of mountain, high plateaux, forests and heathland known as the Massif Central. This region stretches from almost the very centre of the country right down to the south at the Mediterranean coast, a total area of some 93,000km2 (36,000 square miles). The trail runs for 718km (446 miles), from the large city of Clermont-Ferrand in the heart of France to the town of Sète, south of Montpellier on the Mediterranean.

Developed by the outdoor organisation Chamina and the FFC (Fédération Française de Cyclisme), the GTMC was the first long-distance mountain bike trail to be completed in France. There are now several other such trails, known as VTT routes (‘Vélo Tout Terrain’, or all-terrain bicycle, in other words ‘mountain bike’), in areas such as the Pyrenees and Alps, but the GTMC remains one of the most popular, rewarding and challenging long-distance bike trails in France. It may particularly appeal to British mountain bikers, as there are no similar long-distance routes designed for mountain bikers in the UK, only multi-user routes such as the South Downs Way and the Pennine Bridleway.

A good cycling track (Stage 3)

Most of the road sections of the route are along minor rural roads and lanes, with little passing traffic, although there are occasional stretches along busier roads. However, around 60 per cent of the GTMC is off-road on a variety of surfaces, from wide forest gravel roads to narrow muddy woodland tracks, from gentle, smooth paths to quite fierce ascents and descents on some very rough terrain, often exacerbated by tree roots, rocks and stones.

The majority of the route does not require any highly technical mountain biking skill, just concentration, care and common sense. Some relatively small sections are difficult and somewhat technical, but these can either be fairly easily avoided altogether by taking an alternative route, or the difficulties considerably reduced by simply dismounting and pushing your bike. Never hesitate to do this if you are unsure of your ability to safely negotiate a section, and if you are still unsure even about pushing, go back to the nearest road and rejoin the route of the GTMC later.

A lot will depend on weather conditions, not only at the time of your visit, but in the preceding weeks, as lots of heavy rain can quickly turn relatively firm tracks into quagmires of mud. Beneath a canopy of trees where the sun is unable to penetrate, the rate of drying of rain-soaked tracks and paths will be much slower than in open countryside. Generally, the further south you are, the fewer muddy tracks you are likely to encounter, as the warmer Mediterranean climate gradually replaces the wetter, more temperate climate of the northern Massif Central.

Planning the schedule

The official guide to the GTMC (see Appendix E, Further Reading) gives a completion time for the full route of between 10 and 20 days. This wide range allows for the differences between, for example, fit and expert mountain bikers, perhaps with a support back-up vehicle, who wish to make rapid progress along the trail, relative beginners, and/or those who prefer to take their time, visiting various places of interest along the way, and if unsupported, who need time to find accommodation and buy supplies.

This guidebook divides the GTMC into 17 stages, each of which the average mountain biker should accomplish in a day. The stages are, however, easy to adjust, as in most areas there are other accommodation possibilities, which allow the cyclist to split his or her days as required.

Those who wish to sample only a section of the GTMC can do so by making use of the railway stations en route, the main ones of which are at Clermont-Ferrand, Neussargues, Saint-Flour, Montpellier and Sète. The GTMC can be split into two approximately equal halves by leaving or joining the route at Bagnols-les-Bains, the nearest main railway station to which is at the town of Mende, 20km by road from Bagnols, although there is a smaller station at the village of Allenc, 10km away.

GR trails and GR de Pays

The GTMC uses a variety of different designated routes, including a considerable number of grandes randonnées (or GR trails), which are well known to walkers of the French countryside. France has a very extensive network of these official long-distance paths (literally ‘big walks’), each of which has a number, for example GR7 or GR65, and is waymarked with a system of red and white paint marks.

Waymarking for walkers and cyclists (Stage 1)

The principal long-distance trails usually carry a low number, for example GR4 or GR6, whereas shorter circular routes, variations or links have two- or three-digit numbers. Trails in the vicinity of a one-digit GR route all carry the same first number. For example the GR4 has the associated GR43, 44 and 412; the GR6 has the associated GR60 and 65, and so on. This system has analogies with the road-numbering system in Britain: M6, M62, M606, and so on. A circular GR route is generally referred to as a ‘tour’, for example Tour des Cévennes, the GR67. There are at least 65,000km (approximately 40,000 miles) of GR trails throughout France and the network is still expanding.

In addition to the long-distance trails there are many usually shorter, regional footpaths, referred to as ‘GR de Pays’ (yellow and red waymarking), as well as a plethora of local footpaths, or ‘Sentiers de PR’ (petites randonnées), usually waymarked with yellow paint stripes.

In France the distinction between ‘walkers only’ footpaths, and bridleways for walkers, cyclists and horse riders, is less clear than it is in England and Wales. Many sections of the GR trails can be used by cyclists provided due consideration is given to other users. Trails for horse riders are waymarked with orange paint stripes, but these too often double up on GR trails. However, if a sign is encountered anywhere on the system prohibiting mountain bikes, then you must observe it.

The Route

The GTMC starts in the large industrial city of Clermont-Ferrand, but once it has bid farewell to this metropolis there are no more similarly large urban areas until the elegant city of Montpellier, near the end of the journey. Farms, hamlets, villages large and small, and moderately sized towns connect this rural trail across some of the most scenic areas of the Massif Central.

Typical village by the Tarn (Stage 10) (Alan Sides)

Perversely, for a trail that is to head south to the coast, the GTMC begins by travelling north, to visit the town of Volvic, famed for its natural spring water. The fascinating visitor centre here should not be missed, before you continue across the Monts Dôme, an incredible area dotted with many long-extinct volcanoes, the highest of which is the Puy de Dôme, at 1464m (4800ft).

The next few days are spent in the Parc Naturel Régional des Volcans d'Auvergne, at first following the main Chaîne des Puys of volcanic hills, and then skirting to the east of the Monts-Dore, a series of high peaks and ridges topped by the highest summit in the whole of the Massif Central, the Puy de Sancy (1886m/6186ft). The GTMC crosses the high Cézallier plateau and then to the east of the extinct Cantal volcanoes, before descending first to Allanche and then to the historic town of Saint-Flour.

The first stage of the GTMC now over, the route then proceeds over the high hills of the Margeride, a remote area from which many Maquis operations were launched during the Second World War. The national monument to the French Resistance is located near the highest summit of the Margeride, Mont Mouchet, at 1490m (4887ft), and there is the opportunity to visit both. The way continues across sparsely populated country – passing the route taken since medieval times by pilgrims travelling to Santiago de Compostela in northwest Spain – finally descending to the spa town of Bagnols-les-Bains.

The trail now stands at the northern foot of the Cévennes, one of southern France's most romantically beautiful areas. The crossing of this great range of high, forested hills begins with a traverse of Mont Lozère, beneath the summit of its highest mountain, the Pic de Finiels (1699m/5570ft), before a long descent to Le Pont-de-Montvert.

This charming village, steeped in history, lies on the River Tarn, perhaps southern France's most celebrated river. More Cévenol hills are traversed as the GTMC now heads west, over the Bougès ridge to Florac, capital of the Cévennes, where the Tarn is encountered once more. We are now close to some of the spectacular Tarn Gorges, above which our trail journeys still westwards to reach one of the main settlements on the river, Sainte-Énimie, ancient village turned water sports capital.

The Tarn is reluctantly left behind as the trail crosses the sun-baked and often windswept Causse Méjean, a very extensive high limestone plateau, ablaze with flowers in the springtime. The southern Cévennes then have to be conquered, the GTMC climbing to its very highest point, the summit of Mont Aigoual, an extensive viewpoint. The Trèvezel Gorges are passed en route for an overnight at the gîte d'étape at the picturesque village of Dourbies. A final climb over the southernmost of the Cévennes hills and forests leads to a lower, more open plain, which is crossed to reach the historic, small walled town of La Couvertoirade, another grand place to spend the night.

Our trail continues across more fairly open plain, dotted with tiny settlements, until the foot of the last major barrier before the coastal plain is reached. The crossing of the high Saint-Baudille range of limestone hills, and a visit to the revered village of Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert in the l'Hérault valley, are both highlights of the next stage. Only a visit to refined Montpellier remains before the Mediterranean Sea is reached, for a very relaxing finale to the GTMC – a ride or walk along the Canal du Rhône to journey's end, the ‘island’ peninsula that is the town of Sète.

A GTMC for Road Cyclists

A traverse of the Massif Central, following the line of the GTMC very approximately, can also be made by road cyclists. This visits all the major places through which the GTMC passes, but keeps to roads – for the most part relatively quiet ones, where the volume of traffic is not excessive. There are several alternative routes, with the major contenders described in this guidebook. Such a road route would probably take the average cyclist somewhere between eight and 12 days, and would vary in distance between about 660km (410 miles) and 800km (500 miles), depending on the exact route chosen.

Mountain bikers need not always stick to the GTMC on their journey south, of course – you can easily ‘mix and match’, riding some sections of the GTMC and others on quiet roads. This option will probably appeal particularly to the less competent or enthusiastic mountain biker, especially in poor weather conditions (always remember that enjoyment is the main reason for making this journey).

Walking the GTMC

The GTMC not only makes an excellent off-road mountain bike trail across the hills, forests, plateaux and valleys of the Massif Central, but as such a high percentage of it is off-road, and much of that along numerous GR Trails, it also provides a first-rate long-distance walking route across the region. Rather like a coast-to-coast route in Britain, there is a great deal of satisfaction to be had from a project that involves traversing a whole region right down to the very edge of the sea.

Leaving Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert (Stage 15) (Alan Sides)

The walking is generally straightforward, suitable for most reasonably fit people, and the terrain mainly easy going, although there is naturally considerable ascent and descent along the course of the entire route. Fast progress can often be made, particularly along sections of quiet lane and firm tracks.

Although the GTMC is intended as a mountain bike trail, many walkers use it as well, particularly along the frequent and lengthy sections that coincide with GR trails. You will encounter relatively few cyclists, rarely more than two or three each day, and nearly all of these are highly respectful of other trail users. Information for those walking the trail is included in this guidebook, at the end of each stage, and alternatives are given where the GTMC trail can be left for other routes and later rejoined, particularly in areas where there is a considerable amount of road walking.

A walking traverse of the Massif Central would take the average long-distance walker from 27 to 32 days, so a four or five week trip from home, including travel to and from the region. Alternatively, the railway network easily allows one-, two- or three-week walking holidays to be planned.

Climate – When to Go

In general terms, summers in the Massif Central tend to be hot and relatively dry, while winters are often cold with heavy snowfalls.

Winter (defined here as the beginning of November until the end of April) is definitely not a recommended season for travelling the GTMC, most particularly by mountain bike, as snow and ice on the route would create very hazardous conditions, particularly on steep and rough sections. Temperatures are generally very low in wintertime, particularly along the higher sections of the trail away from the coast, and walkers also would require considerable experience. Even the road cyclist would face difficulties, with black ice and snow-blocked high sections on untreated minor roads. Moreover, hotel and other accommodation would probably pose quite a problem during winter, as many of the establishments along the trail close during this season.

The other three seasons all have their charms and advantages and disadvantages. Summer is undoubtedly the most popular season, although it does have its problems. Firstly, it can become intensely hot during the daytime in July and August, and care must be taken to avoid sunstroke and dehydration. Secondly, finding accommodation for each night will be more of a problem in summer (see Accommodation).

Springtime, with its flowers and freshness (May/June), is recommended, as is autumn (September/October), when the golden-brown tints of turning leaves can be particularly beautiful – chestnuts are everywhere on the ground, mushrooms of every size and hue abound in the forests, and the hedgerows are ripe with abundant fruits. The temperature can be quite low both early and late in the year, however, and weather conditions can change dramatically. Much of the trail lies at or above the 1000m (3278ft) contour, so temperatures can also drop rapidly. Late-lying snow on the high sections of the route in early May, and early falling snow in late October, are real possibilities.

Violent thunderstorms, often with little warning of their approach, are not uncommon at any time of year, particularly after the heat of a summer's afternoon, and are a particular hazard to be taken seriously (if such storms become frequent during hot afternoons, then start and finish the day early, to reduce the risk of being caught out in one).

Supported or Unsupported

The majority of mountain bikers who tackle the GTMC do so without any support, carrying their equipment and finding their accommodation each day. The other way to ride the trail is to have a support vehicle and driver as back-up, and if someone will do this for you, there are distinct advantages.

The main advantage is that only a small amount of gear – food, drink, spare clothing, camera – need be carried, and this can be accommodated in a small backpack, so removing at a stroke the problem of carrying all the necessary equipment for the whole holiday on a bike that will be subjected to considerable jolting over the rough trail (see Equipment). Also, the support person can find accommodation for each night while the mountain biker enjoys the riding, without having to think about finding somewhere to eat and rest for the night. The support person could spend the day sightseeing and meeting up with the rider from time to time. However, despite all the advantages of having support, the satisfaction and freedom of riding the GTMC unsupported is without parallel.

Typical Cévenol chestnut tree (Stage 10)

Road cyclists (who have smooth-surface riding) and walkers would have less advantage from a support team, unless camping, as the relatively small amount of gear necessary can easily be carried in either cycle panniers or a rucksack.

Travelling To and From the Region

The easiest, quickest – and perhaps cheapest – way of travelling to the region is by aeroplane. Travelling to the Massif Central from the UK couldn't be easier these days, with several budget airlines offering inexpensive flights to Nîmes, Montpellier, Saint-Étienne, Lyon and Clermont-Ferrand, from Luton, Stansted and Heathrow in the southeast, from East Midlands, or from Liverpool and Prestwick, amongst others, in the north. There is usually an additional charge for transporting bicycles on budget airlines (and on some other carriers): the pedals must be taken off, handlebars straightened and secured, and the bike packed in a bike box or bag for the journey. (When booking your first night's accommodation, it is a good idea to ask whether the proprietor will take care of the bike box or bag until your return for the flight home). For advice on transporting your bike on a plane, contact the CTC (see Appendix F, Useful Contacts).

The obvious airports are Clermont-Ferrand for the outward journey and Nîmes for the return. However, budget flights to Clermont-Ferrand from the UK are only from the London area, and do not operate every day. A good alternative is to fly both to and from Nîmes. At the time of writing, Ryanair is operating a daily return service to Nîmes from Luton, three times a week from East Midlands, and four times a week from Liverpool. The centre of Nîmes and its railway station is only 14km from the airport, an easy cycle ride of less than an hour (walkers can take the inexpensive airport bus that connects with all flights).

There are two or three non-TGV train services each day from Nîmes to Clermont-Ferrand, journey time approximately five hours. When purchasing your train ticket, do not forget to request a bicycle ticket (free of charge). There is usually little problem in transporting your bike, without dismantling it in any way, on normal express (non-TGV) and local trains in France, unless the train is very full, in which case you might be asked to take a later one. On finishing the GTMC, take a train from Sète via Montpellier to Nîmes (frequent services, total journey time about 50 minutes).

Sète railway station (Stage 17)

If you don't want to fly, there are three other travel options: train from the UK to France, long-distance coach and private transport.

Eurostar services from London operate frequent daily trains to Paris, from where fast TGV and other trains leave for Clermont-Ferrand (but note that it will be necessary to change railway stations in Paris in order to continue on your journey). In general, you can only carry a bicycle at no extra charge on Eurostar if it is carried in a bike bag no larger than 120cm by 90cm, so the bike must be disassembled. However, there are two Eurostar services which do allow bikes to be transported without dismantling, but for both these options you need a seat reservation first.

For the first option, you telephone the Eurostar Baggage Line on 0870 5850850 to book a bicycle reservation on your train (£20 per bike per journey in 2009). There are limited spaces for bicycles on each train, so it is advisable to make an early reservation. With this option you are assured that your bike will be travelling on the same train as you.

Alternatively, check in your bike at the Eurostar Baggage Office at the railway station up to one hour before your train departure. This service also costs £20, but there is no guarantee that you and your cycle will travel on the same train. In this case, your bike will usually arrive a few hours after you, but Eurostar only guarantees that it will arrive within 24 hours after check-in, so at worst you could have to wait up to a day to retrieve your bicycle.

On most TGV services you will have to transport your bicycle in a bike bag no larger than 120 × 90cm, although a few TGV services now have a luggage van in which bikes can be transported without dismantling, for example on the Paris to Marseilles route. This service cost €10 per bike per journey in 2008. It may be that in the future this facility will be extended to other TGV routes – check the current situation and regulations on www.velo.sncf.com.

The Express Bike Bus is a company offering coach transport from England with bicycles towed in custom-built trailers. There are various pick-up points in England, including Leeds, Manchester, Birmingham, London and Dover. Their ‘Mediterranean Route’ service includes a drop-off near Montpellier. Services operate from early May to late September, with varying weekly/fortnightly departures and returns (see Appendix F, Useful Contacts).

There are several advantages of using a private vehicle to transport your bike to the Massif Central. Firstly, the bike does not need to be dismantled in any way, packed in a bike bag or box, nor re-assembled at journey's end, and you have total control at all stages, remaining with your bicycle for the duration of the journey. You alone are responsible for securing your bike onto your vehicle, so that there are no concerns over possible damage by airport or train staff during handling, and no additional bike transport costs to pay. In addition, the use of private transport allows total flexibility over journey dates and timings.

Sign for a typical gîte

The disadvantage, unless you have a vehicle back-up person or team, is that somewhere must be found for the safe storage of your car while on the GTMC. It is best to book a hotel or similar accommodation in advance for the first night, asking for your vehicle to be left in the establishment's car park for the duration of your holiday. (It is only reasonable, if the hotel grants this, to pay a reasonable daily parking fee, and to offer to stay a second night at the end of your trip before leaving for home.) The obvious place to drive to is Clermont-Ferrand. Leave your vehicle here and take a non-TGV train back with your bike from Sète/Montpellier at the end of your holiday.

Accommodation

Hotels, gîtes d'étape and chambres d'hôtes

Booking accommodation from the UK these days is relatively easy, thanks to the internet and e-mail. Some of the hotels and gîtes d'étape along the route now have websites, and enquiries and bookings are often possible by e-mail. Main tourist offices in the region (see Appendix F, Useful Contacts) will also send out lists of accommodation on request.

Hotel de Paris in Murol (Stage 2)

During the main summer season, and particularly between 14 July and 15 August (from Bastille Day to the Feast of the Assumption), many hotels and gîtes d'étape tend to be heavily booked, especially in the main tourist areas, so those intending to ride or walk the GTMC during July and August, or over French public holidays, are strongly advised to make reservations. At other times of year booking accommodation in advance may not be necessary, although it is always advisable, if possible, to phone for a booking one or two days ahead, particularly if you wish to take dinner on the evening when you arrive. If speaking French over the telephone is a problem for you, then either ask the proprietor of your current hotel or gîte d'étape to phone ahead for you, or ask the staff of a tourist office to do so. Most people are usually very willing to help.

Hotels in France are star graded according to a system very similar to that used in Britain. A basic hotel is a one-star establishment, and usually reasonably priced, clean and comfortable. Most of the hotels in the area covered by this guidebook carry a one- or two-star grading. One pays for the room in France, so there is seldom a reduction for only one occupant, although if cycling or walking alone it is always sensible to enquire.

The French gîte d'étape has similarities with the UK youth hostel, but is operated either privately (most are family-run small businesses) or by the local community (gîte communal). Many gîtes d'étape are in sympathetically restored traditional buildings, typically accommodating between 10 and 30 people. All have hot showers. Dinner is usually provided in a gîte d'étape and this nearly always consists of excellent home cooking, often to a much higher standard than that found in tourist restaurants. Most gîtes d'étape also have a fully equipped kitchen for those wishing to prepare their own food. Accommodation is in a traditional dortoir, usually of four, six or eight beds, but increasingly these days, rooms for two are also available at a little extra cost.

Checking gear before leaving the gîte (Stage 8) (Alan Sides)

Demi-pensions are common and usually offer the best value for money. You will almost certainly meet other like-minded outdoor people here, usually walkers, mountain bikers or other cyclists, and these establishments are noted for their hospitality. Staying at a good gîte d'étape can be one of the highlights of walking or cycling in France. See Appendix C for a list of the gîtes d'étape along the GTMC Trail. There is no umbrella organisation to join, but details of most of them can be found at www.gites-refuges.com.

Chambres d'hôtes are bed-and-breakfast establishments, similar to their British counterparts (although, of course, do not expect an English cooked breakfast). The cost always includes breakfast, but dinner is often not available, although it can usually be taken in a nearby restaurant. Chambres d'hôtes are becoming more and more popular in France, and to attract foreign guests will often be signposted as ‘Bed & Breakfast’, ‘B&B’, or ‘zimmer-frei’.

Camping

There are many campsites on or near the way – plentiful in some areas, but rather thin on the ground in others, particularly after Stage 13 until the coast is reached. For campers intending to ride or walk the GTMC late in the season, it is important to note that most campsites on the route close some time in September, often at the end of that month, but more than a few in the first or second week of September. If you intend to camp wild (camping sauvage) along the trail, be aware that you must seek permission from the landowner before doing so (it is illegal to do so otherwise). An uncontaminated water source will also have to be found, unless enough water is carried from a town or village. Leave no sign of an overnight camp, remove all your litter and take care not to pollute water sources. Particular care should be taken with matches and stoves, as forest fires are all too common during hot, dry summers, and do not light open fires. Note that wild camping is completely prohibited in the Cévennes National Park.

Food and Water

The mobile butcher calls at Vacquerie-et-Saint-Martin-de-Castries (Stage 14)

Shops, and in particular grocery shops (épicerie) and bakers (boulangerie), tend to open earlier than their equivalents in Britain (usually around 7.30–8.00am) and to stay open later (often up to 8.00pm), but most will close for two to three hours in the early afternoon (note that boulangeries often close earlier in the day, and rarely have fresh bread in the late afternoon). A few farms in some rural areas may offer items such as cheese or honey for sale, but never rely on this. Some smaller and more remote settlements, which no longer have village shops, are served by mobile shops that travel the district once, twice or three times a week, and you may just be lucky to encounter one. Provisions may sometimes be bought from the guardian of a gîte d'étape, who may also provide you with a packed lunch if you request it in advance.

Water source in Saint-Michel (Stage 14)

Cyclists should carry water in frame-attached water-bottle carriers. There are water fountains in many of the villages and hamlets passed en route, and water bottles should always be filled when the opportunity arises. Daytime temperatures can be very high at times, particularly during July and August, and heat exhaustion and dehydration can develop rapidly during strenuous riding or walking. Always ensure that plenty of fluids are taken in, particularly in the southernmost sections of the trail, where shade cover is less and temperatures are generally higher.

It is always wise to assume that water taken from streams and rivers is unsafe to drink, particularly if there are cattle, sheep or goats in the vicinity. If in any doubt, add a water-purifying tablet to unboiled water, allowing at least 10 minutes for the chemicals to react before drinking. Water labelled ‘non potable’ is not suitable for drinking.

Equipment

Choice of Bike

For riding the GTMC, a mountain bike is essential – a hybrid off-road/on-road bike will not be robust enough for the variety of terrain encountered on this journey. Obviously the better quality the bike, the better – aiming for a light but strong frame, with suspension if possible – but if you only have a cheap bike, don't be deterred from attempting the route, provided the bike is in good condition and well maintained. Cyclists keeping to a road route across the Massif Central are best served by a good-quality touring bicycle.

It goes without saying that whichever you choose, it must be in a safe-to-ride condition, with an adequate braking system and a good range of working gears, particularly at the low end of the range. A good-quality cycling helmet should be worn at all times when mountain biking or road cycling (head injuries are all too common and often very serious in cycling accidents). Always replace an old helmet after a few years of use, and immediately after any accident.

Spares to carry should include a tyre repair kit, including tyre levers, a set of spanners/Allen keys/screwdrivers that fit your machine (a compact multi-tool is a good idea), chain and spoke tool, two spare inner tubes, two spare sets of brake pads and a spare brake/gear cable. A good-quality cycle lock, a bicycle pump and lubricant are also essential. You will need to make a decision on whether to take bicycle lights. If you go in summer when the days are long, there is no real need to carry lights, unless you intend riding back to your accommodation after dark from a restaurant or bar. However, it is essential to maintain high visibility to other road/trail users at all times, and particularly on public roads. Always wear bright colours, and consider using high-visibility reflective tabs and clothing.

Luggage

The next major decision relates to the method of carrying your equipment. Road cyclists will automatically choose panniers, but the mountain biker traditionally carries all his or her gear in a small backpack. This is fine for day riding, but the size and weight of the smallest backpack necessary, even when carrying the minimum of equipment, for a two- or three-week trip, is likely to be too much for comfort and safe riding.

It may be possible to carry part of your equipment in a small backpack, and the remainder securely strapped to a back pannier rack, so you don't need pannier bags. The problem with panniers on a mountain bike is the constant jolting of the bags over rough terrain, but most people would find it very difficult to carry enough gear without the use of back panniers. (Don't even think of front panniers – why so many cycle tourists find these necessary is beyond me. I have been on month-long camping cycle tours without the need for front panniers, carrying more than enough equipment on back panniers plus bar bag.)

If using panniers on your mountain bike, then be sure to fit the strongest, best-quality back pannier rack that you can afford – and fit it very firmly and securely. Make sure that the attachment mechanism for your panniers onto the pannier rack is a secure and safe one, and that it is not likely to work loose with constant jolting. The author used back panniers while riding the GTMC with satisfactory results, but you must be tolerant of the constant jolting of your luggage.

A good quality bar bag is an excellent idea for items to which you need constant access. Buy one with a map case attached, as reference to the route will be more frequent for the mountain biker than for the road cyclist. Remember that you will almost certainly have to carry your bike from time to time over difficult sections of the route, so it is important to not only keep the luggage weight down to a minimum (see below), but also ensure that it is balanced correctly on the bike. Finally, the author encountered a couple on the GTMC towing a specially designed luggage rack at the back of a mountain bike: even this coped with the rough terrain!

Packing Light

Whether mountain biking, road cycling or walking, the golden rule on a trip such as this, unless supported with a back-up vehicle, is to keep the panniers/pack weight down as low as possible, consistent with safety and comfort. This is particularly the case when mountain biking a long-distance route, where your luggage will have to cope with constant jolting over rough terrain.

Track outside Florac (Stage 10) (Alan Sides)

Packing light takes thought and time. Once you have assembled your basic gear, lay it out, weigh each item, and constantly ask yourself if you really need this or that. Keep a washing kit as small as possible, with a lightweight travel towel and only enough soap, toothpaste and shampoo to last you the trip. Take lightweight clothes wherever possible (this need not be expensive – Lidl and Aldi stores sell good-quality cycle clothing at very reasonable prices). You will not need many changes of basic clothing, as clothes can be washed each day and, in the usual weather conditions of southern France, should be dry by the morning. Cycling shorts and a lightweight top will be the general order of the day, but do make sure that you have the right gear to cope with extremes of weather. Although generally warm and often hot during the summer months, it can get very cold on the high-level plateau of the Massif Central, even in summer, particularly when a strong wind is blowing, and storms can produce a deluge of rain. Don't forget cycling gloves and a firstaid kit, and remember to leave enough space in your luggage for some food. To reiterate: think light, think safe.

Walkers should also think lightweight when packing for a traverse of the Massif Central. Size of pack will depend on whether camping gear is being carried – if you are relying on gîte d'étape and/or hotel accommodation, only a relatively small and light pack will be needed. (Over the years I have seen so many hikers struggling with enormous packs, invariably ending up at a post office to send unnecessary items home.) Good-quality lightweight boots are more than adequate for walking this trail.

Maps

The sketch mapping in this guidebook indicates the route of the GTMC, and shows key features, but is not detailed enough to allow the trail to be followed with certainty. This is particularly so in areas where navigation is not straightforward, and within the Cévennes National Park, where GTMC waymarking is not allowed, so you are strongly advised to equip yourself with the relevant mapping.

France's national mapping agency, equivalent to the British Ordnance Survey, is the Institut Géographique National, or IGN. It produces maps at 1:25,000 and 1:100,000 scale, covering the whole country.

The most economical way of acquiring all the IGN mapping needed to follow the GTMC is to buy the official French guide to the trail, which includes all the IGN mapping at 1:50,000 in the form of a series of leaflets (see Appendix E, Further Reading). The route of the GTMC is highlighted on these maps (occasionally not exactly as waymarked on the ground).

The alternatives are to acquire either the IGN 1:25,000 (see below) or 1:100,000 scale sheets to cover the route. The 1:25,000 maps are excellent, but a total of 21 sheets is required to cover the whole of the route from Clermont-Ferrand to Sète (see below). The 1:100,000 maps, although ideal for the road cyclist, are not always detailed enough for mountain bikers following the GTMC.

1:25,000 Maps

Walkers will need IGN 1:25,000 maps. These excellent cartes de randonnée give detailed topographical information, including long-distance and local routes, as well as useful information for tourists. The following sheets cover the entire route, in order, from Clermont-Ferrand to Sète.

2531ET (Chaîne des Puys), 2432ET (Massif du Sancy), 2534OT (Monts du Cézallier), 2535O (Murat), 2535E (St-Flour), 2635O (Lavoûte-Chilhac), 2636O (Le Malzieu-Ville), 2636E (Saugues), 2637E (St-Amans), 2737O (Grandrieu), 2738O (Le Bleymard), 2739OT (Mont Lozère), 2640OT (Gorges du Tarn), 2641ET (Mont Aigoual), 2641OT (Millau), 2641O (Nant), 2642O (Le Caylar), 2642ET (St-Guilheim-le-Désert, 2643E (Clermont – l'Hérault), 2743ET (Montpellier), 2645ET (Sète).

The E and O at the end of each sheet number stand for est (east) and ouest (west) respectively. Areas that are particularly popular are mapped by special tourist sheets, with wider coverage than the standard sheets, and offering good value for money. These are called Top 25 maps, and are identified by a T after the map sheet code. Sheets without a T in their code are in the Série Bleue (Blue Series). The latest editions of both the Top 25 and Série Bleue 1:25,000 maps have special gridlines that allow your position on the map to be located using a GPS device.

1:100,000 Maps

At the time of preparing this guidebook (2009), the IGN 1:100,000 series is in the process of being radically updated, and when finally issued will be re-numbered, easier to read, carry more tourist and long-distance trail information than the previous series, and be GPS-compatible. This new Top 100 series of 76 sheets will cover the whole of France, compared with the 74 sheets of the old series.

IGN 1:100,000 (to be phased out by 2010/11, but some libraries will no doubt carry them for some time) sheet numbers 49, 50, 58, 59 and 65 cover the whole of the GTMC from Clermont-Ferrand to Sète.

IGN Top 100 series (to be fully introduced by 2011/12) sheet numbers 155, 162, 163 and 170 cover much of the route, but the maps for the Clermont-Ferrand region had not been issued when this guide was published.

Other Maps

Road cyclists can either use 1:100,000 IGN maps, or some of the road maps in either the Michelin Local or Region series. The following maps are required to cover the entire route.

 Michelin Local Series 1:150,000 and 1:175,000: 326 (Allier, Puy-de-Dôme), 330 (Cantal, Lozère), 339 (Gard, Hérault);

 Michelin Region Series 1:200,000: 522 (Limousin), 526 (Languedoc-Roussillon).

Free city maps, available from tourist offices in Clermont-Ferrand and Montpellier, are useful for negotiating your way out of these cities, after which they can be discarded.

Both IGN and Michelin maps can be ordered from several British outlets (see Appendix F, Useful Contacts), or bought from numerous bookshops and newsagents locally in France. Always ensure that you are buying the latest edition.

Road Numbering

A word of caution: the road-numbering system in France is undergoing long-term reorganisation, and several road numbers will eventually change, which may include some of those in this guidebook, but vigilance, common sense and using the latest editions of maps should avoid any uncertainty. Readers can help by writing to or e-mailing the publishers if they spot any road numbers that need to be amended in the next edition (see the Advice to readers’ for details).

Waymarking

The majority of the GTMC has standard waymarks. These consist of a square waymark with a white background on which is a red equilateral triangle next to two red circles. Alongside these symbols are the letters GT, followed by ‘Grande Traversée du Massif Central’. The majority of these waymarks are either 12 × 12cm or 10 × 10cm in size, but some are smaller. Other mountain biking or cycling trails have the same ‘triangle and two circles’ waymark symbol, but these are in a variety of colours (for example black, yellow, brown) other than red, and do not include the words ‘Grande Traversée du Massif Central’. These waymarks often carry the letters VTT (‘Vélo Tout Terrain’) and FFC (‘Fédération Française de Cyclisme’), and are found on fences, walls, posts, telegraph poles, trees and so on.

Waymarking on the GTMC (Stage 1)

Waymarking of the route is generally of a high standard – usually quite frequent and well placed – so you should have few problems with navigation. But do bear in mind that, over time, signs can be damaged, moved, hidden, stolen, or lost for a variety of reasons (tree-felling is just one), so always be alert. Waymarking, of course, can never be perfect, and no doubt there will be times when you are having difficulty finding the route, and there will be no helpful waymarks to assist you, whereas it always seems that when the trail is obvious, there is an abundance of waymarks!

There is no GTMC waymarking for the first few kilometres of the route – from the centre of Clermont-Ferrand to Durtol on its outskirts. Thereafter the standard waymarking system is used all the way until a little after La Couvertoirade on Stage 14, with the exception of the central zone of the Cévennes National Park, where GTMC waymarking is prohibited. The GTMC enters and leaves the park on several occasions during Stages 9 to 13 (this is shown clearly on the maps in this book), when special care must be taken with route-finding. However, following the route description in this book, together with careful map and compass work, should result in a straightforward passage though these areas. Remember too that waymarking of GR, GR de Pays, horse-riding trails and PR trails (see below) does continue in the park, which helps greatly in the absence of GTMC waymarks.

Soon after La Couvertoirade the GTMC waymarking described above ends, but is replaced by waymarking for the GT34 – the Grande Traversée de l'Hérault – with which the GTMC is coincident until Saint-Jean-de-Fos, at the end of Stage 15. This waymarking is quite different from that described above. Each waymark now consists of a short green post bearing a GT34 and Hérault region stickers.

From Saint-Jean-de-Fos to La Paillaide, on the outskirts of Montpellier, Stage 16, the GTMC is coincident with the GR653, which bears the standard red and white waymarking of a GR trail. Some sections of this trail are very difficult for a mountain bike, so if you decide to avoid them, don't follow the red and white flashes in these areas, but follow the road bike alternative route instead.

Waymark post for GTMC and GT34 (Stage 14)

From La Paillaide, near the end of Stage 16, through Montpellier and on to the Mediterranean coast at Sète, the end of the Stage 17, the GTMC carries no waymarking. However, this is not a problem, as a free city map, available from tourist offices, will allow easy navigation through Montpellier, and after that the route-finding along the Canal du Rhône is very straightforward.

It is important to be able to recognise the various other waymarking systems that are used to indicate routes in the French countryside. The standard waymarking used by the FFRP (Fédération Française de la Randonnée Pédestre – see Appendix F, Useful Contacts) for long-distance GR trails consists of red and white paint flashes, with various arrangements of red and white lines signifying different instructions. Two sets of red/white marks appearing together indicate that a change of direction is imminent – this is often in the form of curved red and white markings pointing towards the new direction to be taken.

A painted cross, usually of one red and one white line, signals that the route is not in that direction – go back to pick up the correct trail. Remember also that all GR trails are waymarked with red and white flashes. In areas where two GR routes meet, or where a variant leaves the main route, care should be taken to follow the correct GR Trail. The GR65, which is encountered at Le Sauvage (Stage 7), is the trail to Santiago in Spain, and carries a stylised pilgrim's shell as well as the usual red/white waymarks.

Occasionally you will see other waymarks: GR de Pays are red and yellow, whereas PR trails are usually single yellow, or sometimes green or blue stripes. Orange waymarks are for horse-riding trails – they sometimes occur in the shape of a hoof-print.

Certain notices should also be understood. ‘Propriété privée’ or ‘Défense d'entrer’ means that the area is private and entry forbidden. The signs ‘Réserve du chasse’ and ‘Chasse privée’ do not refer to mountain bikers or walkers, but mean that hunting rights are reserved for the owner of the land.

Signposts showing the distance in kilometres to the next place on the route will also be encountered from time to time, These usually carry self-explanatory symbols indicating the location of a gîte d'étape, campsite, café or restaurant.

From time to time the route of a trail may change. This can be for a variety of reasons – to improve the route, to avoid problems such as a land slip or an eroded path, or sometimes at the request of a landowner. As time goes on, there may be changes to the line of the GTMC such that the route described in this guidebook is not always the one on the ground – if this is the case, always follow the waymarks rather than trying to find the route described here, until the original route is re-joined.

Training

Those who cycle (whether on a mountain bike or road bike) regularly, or walk in the hills of Britain, should have no difficulty on the GTMC. However, if you haven't taken any exercise for some time, a programme of training in the months preceding the trip would be sensible – an unfit person would find the ride or walk a great strain, and miss out on much of the enjoyment of the experience. Remember too that the three activities covered in this guidebook – mountain biking, road cycling and long-distance walking – use different muscles and require different skills, so be sure that you are well prepared for whichever method you choose to travel the GTMC.

Cyclists who have done little off-road mountain biking would be well advised to practise as much as possible on off-road routes, starting a minimum of six months before setting off on the GTMC. Begin with short rides, then full day rides, and finally a weekend or preferably week of off-road cycling. Get as much training as you can on moderately difficult terrain, where there are tree roots, muddy ruts and rough stones on the surface, and where some of the ascents/descents are steep. However, do not worry if your previous mountain biking experience is mainly confined to relatively easy off-road tracks. Take things easy, and never attempt a section on your bike of which you are unsure. In most cases, the length of the stages is such that there is time to complete the route in a day even if a fair percentage is walked.

The safest and most sensible option when faced with a difficult and/or potentially dangerous section is always to dismount and push the bike, and even this may not be that easy, so be sure to get plenty of practice pushing and riding a heavily laden bike over steep ground.

It is hard work pushing uphill (Stage 11)

Health

Perhaps the most common ailment that befalls travellers abroad is stomach upset or diarrhoea. Rest and light meals often provide the best cure, although a non-prescription medicine will help to ease the symptoms. Failure to correct stomach upsets can lead to weakness, dehydration and further complications.

Colds and other minor ailments are usually easily treatable with medication from a pharmacist (small supermarkets, grocers and newsagents in France do not usually stock medicines such as paracetamol, aspirin and cold relief powders), but it is advisable to include basic medications in a first-aid kit.

Over-exposure to the sun and heat stroke are other problems to be avoided at all costs. Always wear a helmet when cycling, but otherwise a sun hat, and sunglasses and high-factor sunscreen. If the weather becomes very hot, then set off early in the morning and have a long siesta during the heat of the day. Drink plenty of liquid to prevent dehydration, and cover exposed skin that is unused to a southern sun.

Mountain bikers should pay particular attention to the contents of their first-aid kit, ensuring that they have enough dressings and antiseptic to cope with the cuts and bad grazing that might result from a fall. Some means of strapping a limb until assistance is found is a good idea, and if you are travelling in a group, at least one member of the group should consider going on a first-aid course before the holiday.

Snakes

The European viper, or adder, is not uncommon in the Massif Central, and a bite, although unlikely to be fatal, would be exceedingly unpleasant. It could also have serious consequences in more sparsely populated regions, where help may not be quickly available. Vipers are less of a threat to the biker than to the walker (except of course when the former is pushing his or her bike, which no doubt will happen from time to time on the GTMC).

Fortunately, snakes are fairly secretive animals, likely to detect a walker's presence by vibrations along the ground and take avoiding action, but do keep a good lookout for them, in order to avoid accidentally treading on one. It is a good idea to be familiar with the markings of the European viper (dark green/black in colour with characteristic zigzag stripes on the upper surface), although the chances are that the GTMC will be completed without ever catching sight of even one.

A bite from a viper can result in considerable bruising, discolouration and swelling of the surrounding area, and in the unlikely event that you are bitten, be sure to rest, avoid a panic reaction, and get medical help as soon as possible.

Emergencies

The emergency services (medical help, police or fire brigade) can be reached by dialling 112. This service is staffed by French speakers, and they are unlikely to speak much English, but there is an ‘SOS Help’ service in English, which can be contacted by dialling 01.47.32.80.80, or from a UK mobile, 00.33.1.47.32.80.80 (it would be sensible to programme this into your mobile before you set off).

Language

The French, like the British, are not particularly keen on learning foreign languages. Many younger people can speak some English, but in general do not expect the level of fluency found in Holland, Germany or Scandinavia. This is particularly true of the rural areas of the Massif Central. It is a good idea to brush up ‘rusty’ French before the holiday, as even the most elementary grasp of the language will pay dividends by enriching your experience in France. However, no true adventurer will be discouraged by an inability to speak the local tongue, even if it necessitates the occasional use of sign language!

Money/Banks/Telephone

The unit of currency in France is the euro. Credit and debit cards are accepted widely, and are a useful form of payment for hotel bills, restaurant meals and rail tickets.