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INTRODUCTION

The Southern Upland Way

Heading up to the Cogs pass above Sanquhar (Stage 7)

The best long-distance walking trails have two characteristics that make them great: a succession of dramatic landscapes coupled with a broad selection of interesting places to visit along the way. The Southern Upland Way (SUW), Scotland’s Coast to Coast Walk, scores highly on both. As the SUW cuts across the grain of the country many different landscapes are unveiled: coastal cliffs, high moorland, rolling hills, remote mountains, forests, lochs, mountain streams, majestic rivers and sylvan valleys abounding in wildlife. The SUW passes through regions that are exceedingly rich in archaeological and historical associations, from prehistoric standing stones to monuments commemorating the Killing Times of the 17th-century Covenanters. There are formal gardens and stately homes to visit en route as well as some of the more elegant towns of Dumfries & Galloway and the Borders, such as Moffat and Melrose, the latter with its famous abbey – so many places of interest to stimulate and delight the visitor. Long-distance walking is all about exploring new territory and at a pace where it can be fully savoured. The Southern Uplands of Scotland are probably the least visited area of Britain, and it is likely that most walkers who venture out from Portpatrick on the west coast will be discovering an area that for them was hitherto unknown: they will be pleasantly surprised. The SUW has it all! If you choose this trail for your annual walking holiday then you will certainly not be disappointed.

The 347km (215 mile) long SUW, Scotland’s longest Great Trail, starts out from the west coast of Scotland at the picturesque old harbour of Portpatrick. After a few kilometres following the dramatic cliff tops north of Portpatrick, the SUW swings inland to begin its long journey eastward, firstly across the narrow Rhins peninsula. Kennedy Gardens, ablaze with rhododendrons and azaleas in season, is passed en route for New Luce, where the story of the Covenanters and the Killing Times starts to unfold. A crossing of the remote and beautiful Galloway Hills follows, through Bargrennan and on to dramatic Loch Trool, site of one of Robert the Bruce’s victories over the English in 1307. After Clatteringshaws Loch comes friendly St John’s Town of Dalry. Here, walkers stock up for the long section of the Way across the hills to Sanquhar, where Britain’s oldest post office dating from 1763 will be seen in the High Street. Wanlockhead at 425m (1394ft) is Britain’s highest village and home to the Museum of Scottish Lead Mining, where time may be taken off from the route to visit an old lead mine. The SUW, in a superb high-level section, now climbs to its highest point at 712m (2335ft) on the Lowther Hills before dropping to the Evan and Annandale Valleys, where a full day off from the route could be well spent exploring Moffat and its beautiful environs.

A crossing of the Ettrick Hills, with a second visit to the 600m (2000ft) contour over Capel Fell, leads out of Dumfries & Galloway and into the Scottish Borders. A walk along the shores of St Mary’s Loch, southern Scotland’s longest, and haunt of James Hogg, the Ettrick Shepherd, one of Scotland’s celebrated poets, leads on to Traquair with its stately home which has strong associations with the Jacobites. An ancient drove road takes the SUW to the tranquil River Tweed, beloved of anglers, and on to Melrose, which with its ancient abbey ruins, formal gardens and Walter Scott associations is another place where first time visitors may wish to linger a while. The triplet of the Eildon Hills dominates the landscape hereabouts as the walk continues north-eastwards to reach ‘Royal’ Lauder, where Thirlestane Castle and Gardens may be visited. A long crossing of the wild and lonely Lammermuir Hills leads to the pretty village of Longformacus, after which a more gentle landscape, rich arable countryside, leads to a final section along the cliffs of the east coast and into Cockburnspath, the eastern terminus of the SUW.

Abbotsford and the Tweed (Stage 11)

The SUW traverses most of the major habitat types found in southern Scotland, including coastal cliffs, open moorland, hill and mountain, farmland, parkland, deciduous and coniferous woodland, riverbanks and lochsides. The wildlife associated with these habitats will be seen at any time of the year, but spring, when the birds are in full song and when the wildflowers are at their best, is particularly rewarding for nature lovers.

One false impression of the SUW needs to be dispelled. Some people believe that there are huge tracts of the trail through massive forestry plantations of Sitka spruce. It is true, alas, that there are far too many forestry plantations in southern Scotland and the SUW certainly does pass through several of them. BUT, since the Way was first opened in 1994, many stretches have been re-aligned out of the plantations – culminating in 2018 with the magnificent higher-level line taken over the Ettrick hills. Today, by far the majority of the route is outside these forests and on open hillside or in pleasant rural valleys. For example, the last 90km (56 miles) of the SUW from Minch Moor east of Traquair to Cockburnspath on the coast is devoid of any large plantations, and the first two stages of the SUW in the west from Portpatrick to New Luce, a distance of around 41km (25 miles), are more or less free of forestry.

Hopefully by now your appetite for the SUW has been well and truly whetted. So you now want to walk the SUW, but how do you realise your ambition? The introductory sections that follow will help you in planning and arriving at the start of the walk, Portpatrick, and from there the route description should safely guide you day by day on the SUW ‘Over the hill to Away!’

West to east or east to west?

A west to east traverse, as described in this guide, is the direction of choice. The depressions that come all too frequently across the Atlantic bring moisture-laden air from the south-west and dump much of it across our mountains, hills and moors. So the chances are that if you walk from Portpatrick to Cockburnspath you will have the wind, and hence any unpleasant weather, at your back all the way. However, if you happen to be unlucky enough to choose a period when a bitterly cold north-easterly is blowing, which is not uncommon particularly in the winter months, then you may have reason to curse both my advice and your decision. But may the sun always be shining! From a scenic point of view the views are equally fine if the Trail is walked in either direction.

When to go

You can walk the SUW at any time of the year, although during the winter months on the upland sections of the Trail, you will need the usual winter hillwalking gear, together with the appropriate experience. When the hills are plastered in snow and ice then crampons and ice axes must be carried. The Southern Uplands may not be the Highlands of the North, but the landscape here is nevertheless often rough and unforgiving, and once off the route of the SUW then few paths and fewer signposts are the norm.

Loch of the Lowes, Tibbie Shiels, and St Mary’s Loch (Stage 10)

Long-distance walkers tackling all or major sections of the route would be wise to confine their activities to the spring, summer or autumn months, from April to October, when the days are longer and the weather conditions are (usually) less severe. Only the hardiest, suitably experienced backpackers should consider walking the SUW in winter. An appreciable amount of the accommodation and other facilities that serve the Way will be closed from November to March, so winter hikers have little alternative than to backpack and camp wild for several nights. For a winter crossing, it is essential to be fully equipped and experienced enough to cope with short daylength, long, cold and dark winter nights, snow and ice on the route, and winter storms. Several of the long cross-country stages between towns and villages cannot be completed in the daylight available in a winter’s day. Nevertheless a winter SUW completion would make for a very special and magical experience for well-equipped and experienced backpackers, but would be way beyond the ‘comfort level’ of most ramblers.

Summer has the advantage of generally warmer days, but as this is the period when the majority of people take their holidays there will be more competition for the available bed space in the area. Those who prefer solitude in the hills, moors and forests should not dismiss the main summer holiday time period as neither Dumfries & Galloway nor the Borders receive the number of walking visitors that often overcrowd the Lake District, Yorkshire Dales and other areas south of the border. The Southern Uplands offer one of the few areas in these densely populated islands to get far away from the madding crowd at any time of the year.

Spring and autumn are the seasons of choice. High pressure is perhaps more common during the spring in Scotland, and days during May and June often (but not always!) present ideal walking conditions – bright, sunny and not overly warm. The general freshness and rebirth of life is stimulating during springtime and flower displays are a particular joy. A visit to the Kennedy Gardens (refer to Stage 2) passed at the western end of the SUW can be highly recommended at this time of year.

Autumn is a charming time of the year in southern Scotland, with its mellow colours and general feeling of seasonal contentment. The heather moorland is a blaze of purple, and the landscape is at its driest of the year after the warmth of the summer sun and before the winter rains arrive. The romantic roar of stags can sometimes be heard during the annual rutting season in October. Accommodation tends to be less fully booked than in July and August, and days in early autumn are still of an adequate length for walking relatively long distances.

Ways of tackling the SUW

Border fence on the SUW between Dumfries & Galloway and the Borders (Stage 9) (photo: Alan Castle)

For many, the challenge will be to walk the SUW from coast to coast as a continuous walk across Scotland. It forms the basis of a superb walking holiday of about two weeks’ duration, carrying the minimum of equipment (but always taking sufficient warm and waterproof gear). However, this cannot be done in its entirety using only overnight stops on the SUW itself. The closure in 2013 of Tibbie Shiels Inn currently leaves Stages 9 and 10 as a combined day of 54km (33 miles) – plus a bit more if your accommodation is in Innerleithen. This is beyond a daywalk for all but the truly superhuman. The two sections from Bargrennan to Dalry and Dalry to Sanquhar, both more than 41km (25 miles), are also uncomfortably long. And for 2018 it seems that the Kenmuir Arms in New Luce may be closing its bedrooms at the end of Stage 2 (though a lonely B&B at Waterside in Stage 3 is a usable alternative). Please see the Itinerary planner (Appendix A) for more detail on the accommodation you can find along the route.

The best solution at present is to arrange transport pick-ups at various points, with return the following morning. The useful pick-up points at stage ends are:

 Stage 2: New Luce back to Stranraer or Castle Kennedy, or south to Glenluce

 Stage 4: Craigenbay (west of), for transport forward to St John’s Town of Dalry

 Stage 5: Stroanpatrick track end, for transport back to St John’s Town of Dalry

 Stage 7: Overfingland, on the A701 Dalveen Pass, for transport to Leadhills, Thornhill, etc

 Stage 9: Scabcleuch, Ettrick valley, for transport to Selkirk, etc

Various B&Bs and inns do provide such pick-ups, and these should be detailed in the official SUW accommodation listing. Several companies offer a bespoke self-guided holiday using these options (see Appendix D and the SUW website). With this programme, the longest day will be 19 miles (30km), with a daily average of 15 miles (24km).

The alternative is backpacking the route, carrying your tent, food and cooking equipment. Scotland’s access laws allow wild camping almost anywhere along the route – a huge choice of idyllic camps; there are also the five bothies available as wet-weather fallbacks. This removes the need to complete a full stage each day in order to reach accommodation. Of course, the down side is carrying all the extra weight.

If you do not have the time available or the energy to walk the entire SUW as one expedition, then break it down into two or more sections. The best point to split the route in two is at Beattock/Moffat at the end of Stage 7. Here, there is good motorway (M74) access, and bus transport readily available north towards Glasgow and Edinburgh or south to Lockerbie and Carlisle, from where transport connections home are plentiful. The western half of the SUW will take approximately 8 days to accomplish, but longer if time is spent at the various places of interest along the route, which is always the recommended way to walk a long-distance trail. At a later date, you can return to Moffat/Beattock to walk the eastern half of the SUW, soon leaving Dumfries & Galloway and crossing the entire Borders region to the North Sea on the east coast. This eastern half, less rugged than the west, takes about six days of walking.

Those people living in southern and central Scotland and in northern England could walk the SUW in its entirety as separate day walks or two-day backpacks over as long or as concentrated a time period as desired. For example, travel to Lauder, take an early bus to Melrose and walk the short Stage 11 to Lauder the same day; or travel to Dumfries, take an early bus to St John’s Town of Dalry, and walk the long Stage 4 to Sanquhar over 2 days, perhaps using the bothy at Polskeoch. The SUW’s five bothies are well placed for such a programme, occurring within each of the four really long stages that could not be covered in a single day whilst fitting with public transport.

If you choose to walk the entire route, whether in one go or in sections, I’d urge you not to rush through this marvellous country. There is much to see and enjoy. Remember that you are on holiday, not on a gruelling assault course. Relax and enjoy the area, particularly if it is your first visit. There are several possibilities along the route for taking off a half-day, a full day or even several days to visit a place of interest, public garden, museum or the like, or, if you are a compulsive walker, to enjoy some of the first-rate hill walking on offer in the area. This guidebook provides several ideas for breaks from the route, and the tourist offices on or near the SUW will provide other information and inspiration.

On Broomy Law west of Three Brethren (Stage 11)

Of course if you have no desire to walk the entire length of the SUW you can still enjoy sections of it on day walks or longer outings. The SUW offers a good, well waymarked walking route through some wonderful countryside and can be used in part by all types of walkers, from those content with a leisurely stroll of a mile or two to committed long-distance and hill walkers. Hillwalkers will find that the SUW forms convenient and easy access routes into remote hill country and after a hard day on the pathless tops often provides an undemanding and relatively fast route of return to the car and civilisation.

Finally, give a thought to the idea of combining the SUW with one of the other long-distance paths in southern Scotland. A week long holiday in south-west Scotland could be had by walking the SUW from Portpatrick to New Luce, then south into the Machars to Whithorn along the Whithorn Pilgrim Way. A companion trip to this could be a week or 10 days in the Borders and Northumbria along the SUW from Moffat to Melrose, from where St Cuthbert’s Way will lead you to Lindisfarne, Holy Island. The SUW also connects with the excellent Borders Abbeys Way at Melrose and the two trails combined would also make a worthwhile walking holiday. Finally, the new Annandale Way from Annan itself to Moffat, combined with the eastern half of the SUW, allows for a very fine and rather shorter coast-to-coast crossing of 215km (135 miles) (see http://annandaleway.org).

Luggage transfer and drop-off/pick-up services

Some commercial companies (see Appendix D) operate luggage support services, transferring luggage from B&B/hotel establishments to the next one that has been booked further along the SUW, so that only a small daysack need be carried. Along the way, they will also sort out the pick-up and drop-off links described above. If you think you are incapable of leaving heavy luxuries at home, you should strongly consider using these services. But one word of warning: always carry with you adequate warm and waterproof clothing, a first aid kit and any necessary medicines, and sufficient food and drink.

Accommodation

At the end of each of the 13 stages of the SUW described in the previous edition of this guidebook, accommodation was available in the form of B&B establishments or hotels. However, at the time of writing, accommodation is lacking at St Mary’s Loch, where Tibbie Shiels Inn has closed, and doubtful at New Luce.

Approaching Lauder (Stage 12)

There is plenty of choice in some of the other locations, such as Moffat, Galashiels and Melrose, less so in others, and just a few places where accommodation is limited, such as at Bargrennan at the end of Stage 3. Sadly, all four of the youth hostels on or close to the SUW (Kendoon, Wanlockhead, Broadmeadows and Melrose) have now closed. Sometimes more choice is available a little off-route by walking or taking a taxi (or even a bus) to a nearby larger town; for example there is more accommodation in Stranraer than in Castle Kennedy at the end of Stage 1. Some B&B owners will pick up SUW walkers by car if the B&B is a little off-route and will return them to the SUW the next morning.

It is strongly recommended that accommodation is booked for each night, particularly if there are more than two in your party, or if you are planning to walk in the height of the summer season or at bank holidays (remember that some bank holidays are different in Scotland from those in England – it is best to check on this before setting out). An official SUW Accommodation Guide, produced by the SUW Ranger Services, can be found on the SUW website at www.southernuplandway.gov.uk. This contains details of hotel, B&B, hostel, campsite and self-catering accommodation on or in the vicinity of the SUW, including those that offer crucial pick-ups and drop-offs from remote road crossings along the Way. Local Tourist Information Centres (see Appendix D) will provide more information on accommodation possibilities and book accommodation, if required.

There are campsites with facilities on or close to the SUW at Portpatrick (Stage 1), Bargrennan (Glentrool Holiday Park – Stage 3), Beattock (Craigielands – Stage 8), Moffat (Stage 9), Innerleithen (Stage 10) and Lauder (Thirlestane Campsite – Stage 12). Tibbie Shiels Inn (Stage 9) may allow camping on their land, and ‘no facilities’ camping is normally available in Dalry (Stage 5). Note that Caldons Campsite, Loch Trool (Stage 4) is now permanently closed. Details of other places where there are campsites with facilities, or where it is permitted to camp, are usually given in the SUW website.

Polskeoch Bothy (Stage 6) (photo: Alan Castle)

Fully equipped backpackers are free to wild-camp, provided they do so responsibly and well away from any habitation. The only real requirement is that you stay for one night only (unless the situation is an emergency) and that you leave no evidence whatsoever of your passing. Even if a tent is carried it is a good idea to make full use of the bothies provided along the SUW (see Appendix B).

Some details of where to expect supermarkets and other grocer shops, as well as cafés, restaurants and pubs are given in the relevant sections of the Trail Guide, but remember that establishments do close and new ones open over time. For more up-to-date information see the official SUW website (see above) or contact the local Tourist Information Offices (see Appendix D).

Getting to and from the SUW

Journey to Portpatrick

Those arriving by air should seek out any service to Glasgow Prestwick, which has trains to Stranraer (about 2 hours). Otherwise Glasgow International is almost as convenient.

Within the UK, train and long-distance coach services operate several times a day to Stranraer to link with the ferry to Belfast. An alternative is to take a train or long-distance coach to Dumfries, the county town of Dumfries & Galloway, and from there travel westwards by the local bus services, which are generally good. Catch bus number 500 from the bus shelter on the Whitesands, alongside the River Nith in the centre of Dumfries. The journey time to Stranraer is about 2hr 30min. Opposite the point where this bus stops in Stranraer at Port Rodie (Harbour Street), you will find the bus shelter for the bus to Portpatrick (a 20-minute journey). If you make this bus journey from Dumfries to Portpatrick in a single day, be sure to purchase a Dumfries & Galloway ‘Discovery’ ticket from the bus driver in Dumfries. This ticket is cheaper than the two separate fares.

There is plenty of accommodation in Dumfries (contact the Dumfries Tourist Information Centre, which is situated on the Whitesands – open all year). One possibility is to travel from your home to Dumfries, spend a night there (take time to visit the Robert Burns Centre, his house and his mausoleum) in a hotel or B&B, and take a bus the next morning to Stranraer. At the time of writing, the number 500 bus leaves Whitesands in Dumfries at 9.20am (Monday to Saturday), before arriving in Stranraer at 11.36am, with a connection to Portpatrick at 12.40pm, arriving at 1pm. This is most convenient for those wishing to start the SUW immediately on arrival at Portpatrick (or after lunch) as the first section to Castle Kennedy is only a half-day walk. However, to leave without spending some time in the delightful little coastal town of Portpatrick would be sacrilege.

Access to Portpatrick by private transport is via the A75, which leaves the A74/M74 north of Carlisle. From Stranraer take the A77 or a minor road across the Rhins to Portpatrick.

Kilhern Moss (Stage 2)

Journey from Cockburnspath

Buses from Cockburnspath run north to Dunbar and Edinburgh (airport) and south to Berwick-on-Tweed (mainline trains, including to Newcastle for its airport). Those with private transport have the nearby A1 to take them to destinations both south and north. There is currently no accommodation at Cockburnspath: you should allow time at the day’s end for the short bus journey to Dunbar.

Transport links along the SUW

Those planning to do the SUW in one- or two-day stages will find the good – or at worst usable – public transport links they need.

 Stranraer (Stage 1) has bus links to Dumfries, and trains to Glasgow. There is even a ferry to Belfast from Cairnryan, a few miles to the north.

 Castle Kennedy (end stage 1) is on the Dumfries–Stranraer bus route.

 Glenluce (end stage 2) has a bus to Stranraer three days a week.

 Bargrennan (end stage 3) has several buses a day to Barrhill (rail station) and Newton Stewart (Dumfries–Stranraer bus route).

 St John’s Town of Dalry (stage 5) has a good bus service to Castle Douglas, on the Dumfries–Stranraer bus route.

 Sanquhar (end stage 6) has a rail station (Glasgow to Carlisle).

 Wanlockhead (stage 7) has a bus service to Sanquhar, and also to Lanark.

 Dalveen Pass A701 (end stage 7) is on the 102 Dumfries–Edinburgh bus route (but not the 101, which goes via Moffat).

 Moffat/Beattock (end stage 8) has direct buses to Glasgow, Edinburgh, Lockerbie (rail station) and Dumfries.

 Ettrick (3km east of Scabcleuch, end stage 9) has a school bus to Selkirk.

 Innerleithen (1.5km from Traquair, end stage 10) has a good bus service to Edinburgh.

 Tweedbank (stage 11) has direct trains to Edinburgh.

 Melrose/Galashiels (end stage 11) have bus links to Edinburgh and Berwick-upon-Tweed.

 Lauder (end stage 12) has buses to Edinburgh and Melrose/Galashiels.

Planning and preparation

Southern Upland Way track through the Galloway Hills (Stage 4)

If you have never undertaken a long-distance trail as a continuous walking holiday before, then a few hints at the planning stage may come in useful.

 Book any accommodation that is required well in advance.

 Research all your travel arrangements, with timetables and fares for getting to the start of the Trail and getting home after you have finished it. Book if necessary.

 If using a commercial organisation to transport your luggage from accommodation addresses along the Trail (see Appendix D), book this well before you leave home.

 If using a commercial organisation for vehicle support (as above), book this service well in advance.

 Purchase all the equipment required well before you intend to set out. This is particularly important for boots, which must be well ‘broken in’ before using them on the SUW. If backpacking, make sure that you try out your equipment before your first night on the Trail to spot any possible flaws or problems associated with its use.

 If you have not undertaken much walking throughout the previous year then it is essential that you take several long walks in the couple of months or so before your big walk. Moreover, make sure that, on at least some of these walks, you carry the sort of weights in your rucksack or backpack that you will be carrying on the SUW.

 Pack your rucksack/backpack several days before you leave home to ensure that all your equipment fits well in the sack. Go through a checklist of essential items to be taken, remove any unnecessary items (apart from perhaps one or two lightweight luxuries), repack and carry the pack on a few short walks to ensure that it sits comfortably on your back and hips and that all is well. (Finally, take those two lightweight luxuries back out of the sack – they won’t seem so light after 200 miles...)

 Ensure that you have enough cash with you for either the whole trip or until you can be certain of easily acquiring more.

 On the first day of your holiday leave early for the train or bus station to avoid missing your transport which could put all your arrangements and accommodation reservations in jeopardy.

 Start the walk and relax – all should now go like clockwork – and enjoy the walk!

Scotch Blackface tups (rams) of the Southern Uplands (photo: Alan Castle)

Equipment

There are several kitlists available these days with plentiful advice on equipment for various types of walking activities, and many glossy manufacturers’ brochures detail all manner of high tech hiking equipment, so newcomers to walking are advised to consult these before setting out on the SUW.

But one point is worth emphasising here. Nothing spoils a walking expedition more than carrying a large, very heavy rucksack, particularly one containing lots of unnecessary equipment. The author is often amazed at the quantity of equipment that some people carry even on modest excursions. Assemble your equipment and then go through it carefully to see what may be safely left behind. If you are staying in B&B and hotel accommodation, it should not be necessary to carry more than 15–20lbs, even including food and drink. Backpackers should aim for under 30lbs and certainly never more than 35lbs on a route of this nature, where food is available every few days. The main things to consider when packing include:

 Sufficient clothing plus an emergency blanket to keep you warm, dry and safe

 Maps, guidebook, compass, torch, whistle

 A small first aid kit plus any personal medicines

 A small washing kit (not a huge soap bag and no towel if using B&B or hotel accommodation)

 Sufficient food and drink, including emergency food

Backpackers will also need a good lightweight tent, sleeping bag, insulating mat, cooking stove, utensils, fuel and a lightweight travel towel. Most other items will be superfluous. My luxuries consist only of a camera and a small exercise book to be used as a travel journal.

Maps

This guidebook contains Ordnance Survey (OS) Landranger (1:50,000) mapping of the entire SUW with the route of the Trail clearly overlaid. Provided no serious navigational errors occur en route, nor long detours from the SUW are envisaged, then in theory this is the only mapping that is required to walk the Trail. However, many walkers will want to carry some general maps of the area with them, as these are useful for a number of reasons. When you reach one of the many viewpoints along the SUW you will see other distant hills and ranges, villages and small towns, and a whole topography of land and seascape. What are those villages, those hills, that coastline? Unless you have a detailed knowledge of the area, or are walking with a local guide, then the answers to these and other similar questions can only be answered by reference to a good map. Sometimes it will be necessary to divert from the actual line of the SUW to secure a night’s accommodation. Several places of interest are varying distances from the route, from a few hundred yards to several miles, and in order to plot the shortest or most interesting route to them and back onto the Trail, a map will be invaluable. So you must make a decision whether or not to carry other maps with you when walking the SUW.

On the flank of Peniestone Knowe (Stage 10)

A very useful supplement to the mapping in this book is the Harvey Southern Upland Way route map (2018). It covers an area of several miles either side of the route at 1:40,000 scale. It is recommended especially if you have more than one map reader in your group, or if you are carrying this book in digital format and so require a backup map on paper.

The route, heading generally north-eastwards across the southern half of Scotland, cuts across a considerable number of OS map sheets. So if OS maps at either 1:50,000 scale or at 1:25,000 scale are to be taken then there will firstly be a fairly considerable financial outlay in buying the maps, and then their extra weight and bulk will have to be tolerated whilst on the walk. A possible solution to these mapping problems is to use the very adequate OS maps of the route contained in this guidebook for actually walking the Trail, but also to purchase a small scale map of the whole area, such as the OS 1:250,000 scale map of Southern Scotland and Northumberland. This could be either a paper map or installed in a GPS device or phone. This will be useful in overall planning before you leave home, but can also be used to identify distant features in a view and to provide an overview of the wider area through which you are passing. This map will of course have severe limitations if you intend to make detailed detours on foot for some distance from the route, although for relatively short on-foot diversions, the maps in this book will be more than adequate.

The maps that cover the entire SUW from west to east are given below for reference.

OS Landranger Series (1:50,000)

(9 sheets cover the whole of the SUW)

 Sheet 82: Stranraer & Glenluce

 Sheet 76: Girvan

 Sheet 77: Dalmellington & New Galloway

 (Sheet 71: Lanark & Upper Nithsdale)*

 Sheet 78: Nithsdale & Annandale

 Sheet 79: Hawick & Eskdale

 Sheet 73: Peebles, Galashiels & Selkirk

 Sheet 74: Kelso & Coldstream

 Sheet 67: Duns, Dunbar & Eyemouth

*Sheet 71 is unnecessary if Sheet 77 and Sheet 78 are used, as there is sheet overlap.

The route of the SUW is clearly shown on these Landranger maps as a line of red diamond symbols.

Craig Burn (Stage 2)

OS Explorer Series (1:25,000)

(13 sheets cover the whole of the SUW)

 Sheet 309: Stranraer & The Rhins

 Sheet 310: Glenluce & Kirkcowan

 Sheet 319: Galloway Forest Park South

 (Sheet 318: Galloway Forest Park North)*

 Sheet 320: Castle Douglas, Loch Ken & New Galloway

 Sheet 328: Sanquhar & New Cumnock

 Sheet 329: Lowther Hills, Sanquhar & Leadhills

 Sheet 330: Moffat & St Mary’s Loch

 Sheet 322: Annandale, Annan, Lockerbie & Beattock

 Sheet 337: Peebles & Innerleithen

 Sheet 338: Galashiels, Selkirk & Melrose

 Sheet 345: Lammermuir Hills

 Sheet 346: Berwick-upon-Tweed, Eyemouth & Duns, St Abb’s Head & Cockburnspath

*Sheet 318 is unnecessary if Sheet 319 and Sheet 320 are used, as there is sheet overlap.

The route of the SUW is clearly shown on these Explorer maps as a line of green diamond symbols.

Waymarking and navigation

The entire length of the SUW is waymarked with a white Scottish thistle symbol, identical to that used on other Great Trails in Scotland (West Highland Way (WHW), Great Glen Way and Speyside Way). These waymarks appear most often on wooden posts, which usually also carry yellow directional arrows. Where the Way crosses public roads and at other important junctions along the route, SUW signposts have been erected. In general within Dumfries & Galloway these signposts are of wood, whereas in the Borders Region they tend to be of metal, and painted green.

First SUW signpost – Portpatrick (Stage 1) (photo: Alan Castle)

Other Trail ‘furniture’ includes ladder stiles and stone stiles over dry stone walls (called ‘dry stane dykes’ in Scotland), and small gates in fences, these having largely replaced the original wooden stiles. These are quite numerous and are generally in good condition, as are the many wooden bridges and short sections of duck boarding (the latter over boggy areas) found along the Way. In recent years, many stiles have been eliminated by using a metal field gate which incorporates a small, latching gate for walkers. I have referred to these in the route description as ‘combination-gates’. Such a gate can act as an indicator that you’re probably on the correct route, as can a sign saying ‘please close the gate SECURELY’.

Never cross walls or fences except at the indicated points, where stiles or gates are always to be used. The wooden stiles and duck boarding can be very slippery, particularly when wet or icy. Many are protected by non-slippery surfaces, or wire netting, although in some cases these are too old and worn to be completely effective. The ground is sometimes rough and overgrown with long reed grasses and other vegetation, particularly during the summer months, so that care is required when placing your feet in order to avoid ankle or knee sprains, or worse. Occasionally, due to a breakdown in the original drainage, the path may vanish into a swampy section. Here, the original firm surface is still there, a few inches below. It is worth probing for this with a walking pole, rather than diverting into apparently drier ground to left or right. So, do take care: alertness and concentration are major factors for a safe journey along the SUW.

Following the Way in good conditions is generally straightforward, but does require some skills in map-reading and compass work. On some sections across open moorland the path is quite faint, and the lack of a single waymark (perhaps knocked over by a scratching cow or by a human from a nearby settlement) can leave the walker at a loss. Care is also needed on the upland sections of the Trail when hill fog covers the landscape. Inadvertently drifting from the line of the Way could lead to disastrous results in some of the large and featureless expanses of hill and moorland through which it passes. Be vigilant in navigation at all times, particularly in inclement weather conditions. Only experienced hill walkers should contemplate leaving the Way to take in nearby hills or following their own alternative routes. Waymarking elsewhere in the Southern Uplands is largely non-existent, and there are few paths other than those formed by the use of quad bikes by shepherds in recent decades.

Lead mining ruins, Wanlockhead (Stage 7)

It is advisable to take along additional maps to those provided in this guidebook (see the section on Maps, above) and a compass should most definitely be carried – and of course, you need to know how to use it. A GPS device is not an essential item of equipment, but some may find it a comfort to carry one, and such a device would certainly be useful in mist, particularly if high level alternatives or hill walks off the SUW are anticipated. A GPS would be useful if the route of the SUW is completely lost, in order to determine one’s position, but you should never rely on one of these instruments entirely; a map and compass are the fundamentals.

There have been a fair number of route changes over the years from the original line of the SUW. On the whole these route realignments, which are generally well waymarked, represent a considerable improvement to the Way, and for this the SUW rangers are to be congratulated. Two of the best examples are the new route over Craig Airie Fell (Stage 3) and the riverside on leaving Bargrennan (Stage 4); but the prize is the new high-level line over Capel Fell (Stage 9).

SUW INFORMATION BOARDS

At regular intervals along the length of the SUW the Rangers have erected very informative boards detailing various aspects of the Way and the surrounding countryside, enclosed within a tiny rain-proof shelter. Each board has specific information on the area in which it is situated. The locations of the many SUW information boards are given in the various route sections of the Trail Guide.

During 2005, as part of the celebrations of the 21st Anniversary of the SUW (opened in April 1984), 13 artist-made boxes called ‘kists’ were hidden at locations along the SUW, one on each of the (then) 13 stages. Inside each box is a hoard of special ‘waymerks’, small lead or copper tokens marked with tiny, minted images (a Merk was a Scots coin valued at 13s 8d). These represent some aspect of the archaeology, history or wildlife of the area of the hiding place. The Waymerks project has proved popular with people walking the Way in search of these special mementoes.

Access in Scotland

The Land Reform (Scotland) Act became law in 2005. This gives considerable statutory rights of access to virtually all open ground, including for wild camping: one of the most enlightened acts of its type in all Europe. But never forget that these rights of access come with important responsibilities. It is a good idea, if unfamiliar with walking in Scotland, to acquaint yourself with the access code by referring to the free leaflet entitled, ‘Scottish Outdoor Access Code – Know the Code before you go’, which is available from Tourist Information Centres in Scotland or online at www.outdooraccess-scotland.com.

Blackhouse (Stage 10) (photo: Alan Castle)

Ticks

Tick populations appear to be on the increase in the upland areas of Britain. Although the author encountered none on his last coast-to-coast crossing, there have been warnings from some other SUW walkers. The usual hosts of the tick are sheep and deer, but care should be exercised to avoid getting bitten yourself, as ticks are carriers of Lyme Disease, a serious condition. It should not be cause for great concern, nor spoil your walk, but do be aware of the problem; really only common sense is required.

Long trousers rather than shorts are advisable as ticks are most commonly picked up from vegetation along the route. Waterproof trousers or over-trousers are particularly recommended, as soaking wet and tall grasses and other dense vegetation will probably be frequently encountered. Even if it is not raining at the time, overgrown vegetation can remain very wet for a long time after a downpour and the extra leg protection will also help to avoid ticks.

Check the skin frequently for ticks and if found remove them at once, taking care not to leave the mouthparts still attached (a special small tool can be purchased for this purpose).

Completion certificates and SUW badges

Attractive high quality completion certificates are available free of charge to all those who have walked the entire route of the SUW, whether in a single crossing, or as a series of shorter walks. They make excellent mementoes of your achievement and are nice souvenirs of your walking holiday. They are available from the Countryside Ranger Services of either Dumfries & Galloway or the Scottish Borders or via the SUW website (see Appendix D). Certificates for those who have walked only part of the way are also available.

Cloth SUW badges are also usually available, for a small price, at various local outlets.

A high-level alternative coast-to-coast route

Suitably experienced hill walkers and backpackers may wish to devise their own high level coast-to-coast route across the Southern Uplands. It is possible to plan and execute several such routes of various levels of difficulty. From west to east the main ranges to consider crossing are the Galloway Hills, Carsphairn Hills, Lowther Hills, Moffat Hills, Manor or Tweedsmuir Hills, the Moorfoots and the Lammermuir Hills. Such an adventure would be a considerable undertaking, far in excess of that of walking the SUW. The SUW provides access to most of these ranges and could form the principal means of linking up the high level sections. Information gleaned from this guidebook as well as in the Cicerone-published guide to the Southern Uplands (see Appendix C) should prove helpful to those planning their own routes across these hills. It is hoped that those who have not previously walked in the Southern Uplands will develop a love of this area during their SUW trek and will want to return again and again, to explore the area more fully, walk more of the hill ranges and even attempt a bespoke coast-to-coast crossing of this wonderful region. Knowledge and experience of the area gained whilst on the SUW will well equip the walker for such future visits and ventures.

THE E2

The SUW forms a significant part of the E2, which is one of several ultra-long-distance walking trails through Europe. The E2 is 2910 miles (4850km) in length and runs from Nice in southern France to Galway in Ireland. From Nice it travels north through the Alps, Jura, Vosges, Alsace-Lorraine, Luxembourg, Belgium and Holland. On the British side of the Channel there are two alternative routes through England, one from Dover and one from Harwich. These join at Kirk Yetholm, the northern terminus of the Pennine Way. In Scotland the E2 follows St Cuthbert’s Way to Melrose where it picks up the SUW Way, which it follows all the way west to Stranraer. A ferry then leads to Ireland for the last stages of this mammoth walk, which ends at the Atlantic on the Galway coast. As a walk of a lifetime, the E2 through Europe can be thoroughly recommended as it passes through a tremendous variety of landscapes and cultures, from the polders of Holland to the high Alps of France, from the fen country of East Anglia to the Southern Uplands of Scotland. Signs for the E2 will be seen in the Borders attached to SUW signposts. Alan Castle, author of the original edition of this book, is one of very few to have walked the E2 in its entirety.

Using this guide

On Lowther Hill above Wanlockhead (Stage 7)

The SUW has been divided into 14 stages in this guidebook. (This replaces the earlier scheme of 13 stages, two of them over 25 miles.) Each stage is between 15 and 30km (9–19 miles). Most of them end at accommodation points, usually with a shop as well; the others end at road crossings usable for pick-up and drop-off services.

Each stage begins with a ‘summary table’ that shows at a glance the total distance for the stage (plus, in brackets, the additional distance that may be needed to or from accommodation points at the start or end of the stage). The summary that follows provides an overview of the stage and could be read the evening before the section is undertaken to give a feel for the nature of the forthcoming walk. Any possible problems and alternatives are discussed here. (For more detail on the distances between the intermediate points of each stage, please refer to the Itinerary planner (Appendix A).)

The detailed route description that follows is intended for use when walking the Way in conjunction with the appropriate map. Places that appear on the stage maps in this guide are shown in bold in the route description. For much of the Way, the simple instruction of ‘follow the waymarks’ would suffice. But with the funding limitations on both sides of the Scotland watershed, it’s assumed that not every necessary waymark will invariably be in place. There are several new sections of the route that have replaced the original line of the SUW. Note that some old maps may still show the older routes. These would generally be found either unusable, or inferior to the newer path line.

Distances are given in the Route section of the Trail Guide only in metres and kilometres, as OS maps are metric and to quote imperial units as well would be tedious and would clutter the text with too many conversions. Any readers still unfamiliar with metric units of distance are reminded that a metre is just a little over a yard, and that to convert kilometres to miles, you should divide by 1.6 (approximately). Summits and other heights are given in both metres and feet, as many British walkers find it easier to visualise height in feet rather than the metres now marked on OS maps.

Finally, each stage includes ‘Places of Interest’ sections to provide concise but adequate information on the many towns, villages, country houses, gardens, monuments, etc, on or close to the route. In a few instances the items of interest are not actually ‘places’ (the Killing Times described in Stage 3 is one example). This information will enable SUW walkers to appreciate in full the areas through which they are passing, and allow decisions to be made as to which places to spend further time exploring. Part of the joy of walking a long-distance route through an area new to the walker is the chance to explore previously undiscovered places and the history and topography of the area. All SUW trekkers should take some time out from their walk to visit one or more of the many places of interest on the route. The places of particular merit to visit on or alongside the Way, are:

 Castle Kennedy Gardens (Stage 2)

 Lead Mining Museum, Wanlockhead (Stage 7)

 Traquair House (end Stage 10)

 Melrose Abbey (end Stage 11)

 Thirlestane Castle and Gardens, Lauder (end Stage 12)

The walking stages associated with most of these attractions are relatively short, so that time should be available for an extended visit.