Читать книгу The Southern Upland Way - Alan Castle - Страница 12

STAGE 1

Portpatrick to Castle Kennedy

Start	Portpatrick
Finish	Castle Kennedy
Distance	21.9km (13.6 miles)
Ascent	350m

The walk starts with a highly scenic section of about 3.5km of coastal walking, along cliff tops and down to small coves and beaches. Some care is required on the cliff sections on the first half of this route from Portpatrick. At the Killantringan Lighthouse on Black Point the trail leaves the coast to head eastwards on minor lanes and tracks across the Rhins peninsula, reaching its high point on this stage at 156m (512ft) on Mulloch Moor. Knockquhassen Reservoir is passed on a moorland path to its south, after which the SUW descends towards Stranraer and Loch Ryan. The SUW does not enter Stranraer itself, although a diversion of less than a mile would allow a visit to this town, the capital of the Rhins and a former port to Larne and Belfast in Northern Ireland. The route skirts to the south of Stranraer, but offers good views down to the town and Loch Ryan. It then makes its way via narrow lanes, tracks and paths to Castle Kennedy, a small village on the A75, and home to the renowned and eponymous gardens.

This first stage of the SUW is a short one for a number of reasons. It allows walkers who arrive at lunchtime in Portpatrick to reach Castle Kennedy in the afternoon (although this would leave only a brief time to enjoy beautiful Portpatrick). Secondly it is never advisable to over-stretch yourself on the first day of a long walk, when your leg muscles and feet are unaccustomed to strenuous exercise and shoulders unused to the weight of a rucksack. Far better to walk yourself in over the first couple of days, rather than exhaust yourself early on in the adventure. There is plenty of opportunity to do just that in the days to come! Tomorrow is also a short day, designed to allow sufficient time to visit the Castle Kennedy Gardens. These two moderate days will hopefully have increased your fitness and you will then be prepared for the more rigorous days to come. Strong, fit and experienced walkers could nevertheless reach New Luce on the first day if they so desired.

PORTPATRICK

Portpatrick

No more splendid starting place for the SUW can be imagined than pretty little Portpatrick on the rocky west coast of the Rhins peninsula. Portpatrick is a lovely small coastal town with its brightly painted blue, white and cream buildings huddled around an attractive horseshoe shaped bay and neat harbour. It makes a very pleasant place to spend the evening before venturing out on your long walk. There is plenty of accommodation on offer in the town, from harbourside hotels to B&Bs, but note that booking is well advised, particularly during the main summer season, as Portpatrick is a popular place for a holiday or short break.

You could be forgiven for thinking that you were in the Scottish Highlands or Islands from the surrounding landscape. Indeed the BBC in the early 2000s conned its viewers into believing that this area was one of the Hebridean Islands in a popular TV series, Two Thousand Acres of Sky (photographs of the cast of this series can be viewed by clients of one of the harbourside café/restaurants). Portpatrick and its harbour also wouldn’t be out of place on the Cornish coast. If you are arriving here on the midday bus from Stranraer then there are several cafes and restaurants awaiting you, for lunch or tea and coffee before setting out on the Way. Although today the town is mainly of interest to tourists and television directors, in former times it was a major port to Ireland. Indeed the very name of the town, after the Irish patron saint, indicates its importance for communications and trade with Ireland. In its heyday in 1812, 20,000 horses and cattle were imported here from the Irish port of Donaghadee, a mere 21 miles away across the North Channel. Troops were sent to Ireland from Britain via Portpatrick, the town having a large and permanent barracks, and many Covenanters sailed from here to safety in Ireland. It was also the Gretna Green for Ireland, offering a quick and easy marriage with few questions asked. Even Peter the Great is said to have spent a night here on his visit to Britain in 1698. But by the 1840s, with the invention of the large and faster steamship that soon superseded sail, Portpatrick fell rapidly into decline as Stranraer was developed.

To start the SUW, head for the north-west end of Portpatrick harbour (toilets) to reach a SUW information board, the first of many encountered along the Way, and the very first SUW wooden fingerpost, situated at the foot of a long flight of concrete steps heading up the coastal cliff. These mark the start of your 347km epic journey eastwards to Cockburnspath. But for the first few miles you stay with the west coast, enjoying an excellent coastal path. Note the various dates from historic, prehistoric and geological times marked on these steps. Head up to the huge Portpatrick Hotel with its Scottish Baronial architecture.

Sea cliff north of Portpatrick

Take the good path at the top of the steps, heading, ironically, westwards at first and pulling away from Portpatrick. Special care is required on this first section of the SUW, along this rocky coastline, particularly in wet, windy or icy conditions. There are benches here if you wish to linger awhile to admire the view, which in clear conditions includes the Irish coastline as far south as the Mourne Mountains. The path at this point is protected from the steep drop down to the cliffs below by a sturdy wooden fence. Walk to the left of the British Telecom Radio Station, still on the good coastal path above the cliffs. When Portpatrick Golf Course comes into view, walk up a short flight of wooden steps then turn left along an asphalted drive alongside the golf course before soon leaving the hard surface for the continuing coastal path. The route descends over rocks to reach a sandy and shingle beach. Cross this to turn left around the next peninsula headland, soon dropping again to cross a wooden footbridge. Pass around the shoreline to pick up the path again as it passes behind two tall rock stacks, and so up steep rocky, chain-assisted steps, back onto the grassy coastal path, which is met at a stile. An excellent section follows where it is possible to stride out on green springy turf. Soon Killantringan Lighthouse (private) at Black Head will come into view.

Killantringan Lighthouse, which was built in 1900, marks the point where the SUW, having followed the coast northwards from Portpatrick for about 3.5km, leaves the sea to start its long journey to the east coast. The lighthouse apparently did not do its job too well; in 1982 a cargo ship ran aground on the nearby rocks spilling toxic waste into the sea and polluting the nearby coast. Note that the lighthouse is private property and the occupants should not be disturbed.

Killantringan Lighthouse

Head to the right of the lighthouse to join its tarmac access track at a SUW fingerpost that will direct you to the right and inland. At last you are on your long journey to the east coast! As you turn inland be sure to enjoy the grand view of Knock Bay and the coastal cliffs to the north.

Knock Bay from Killantringan Lighthouse (photo: Alan Castle)

The narrow asphalted lane climbs gradually eastwards away from the coast, passing first Killantringan Farmhouse and then Killantringan Cottage, after which it levels and continues to a main road, the B738. Go left on this usually fairly quiet road then after about 400m turn right onto a narrow lane that rises gently over a rounded green hill. Remain on this lane as it bends first to the left and then to the right to pass to the right of large Knockniemoak House. About 100m later, turn sharply right off this lane at a SUW fingerpost onto a gravel track by a pair of houses (Three Acres). Follow this track to the left of another solitary house and garage. Here the main track bends right, but keep ahead into a grassy one (a box formerly holding free SUW leaflets will be passed on your left). Go through a combination gate (a field gate with a smaller walkers’ gate set into it) to enter pasture and climb to a SUW marker post at the top of a grassy hill. From this point, Mulloch Hill at 156m (512ft), the tip of the steep-sided volcanic island of Ailsa Craig in the Firth of Clyde to the north can just be seen on a clear day.

THE RHINS

The first stage of the SUW involves a crossing of the Rhins peninsula, properly known as the Rhins of Galloway. It has a very distinctive shape, an elongated hammerhead, a long and fairly narrow wedge of pastoral green countryside, which is only prevented from being an island by the low-lying isthmus between Loch Ryan to the north and Luce Bay to the south. The word ‘Rhins’ comes from the Old Irish word ‘Rind’ meaning a headland.

Bear right at the hilltop, down to a kissing gate onto the rushes and heather of Broad Moor. Follow a path eastward, now with a loch (Knockquhassen Reservoir) over to your left. This occasionally swampy path passes this loch, eventually emerging at a track. Turn right onto this track, which soon becomes a narrow metalled lane. Follow this gently downhill to cross Piltanton Burn at Greenfield Farm. The lane then bears left and climbs, later veering right to reach a minor road between Stranraer and Portpatrick. Turn left along this road, then after 250m, opposite Cottfield House, turn right onto a lane (there is a good view down to Stranraer and its sea loch, Loch Ryan, from here). The narrow lane runs dead straight for a kilometre before turning left. After about 100m, where the road bends sharply to the right, walk ahead on a grassy path between hedge and fence. This descends to a minor road where you should turn right (SUW fingerpost) uphill. You would turn left here if you wanted to divert into Stranraer.