Читать книгу The Border Country - Alan Hall H. - Страница 8

CHAPTER 1 THE CHEVIOT HILLS

Endless ridges straddle the eastern and central border of England and Scotland, in a tangle of green and rounded summits split asunder by steep-sided sinuous valleys. Windswept grasses continually ripple on these upland fells, with the plaintive cries of whaup (curlew) and peewit, together with the bleating of sheep, heard more often than the human voice. The hills and mountains of the Cheviots cannot be likened to the exalted giants of the Western Highlands or the winsome English Lakes, yet these lonely and now peaceful hills have their own appealing romanticism.

The principal summits are clustered in the east, as supplicants to the massif of the Cheviot 2676ft (815m), after whom the range is named, and with the exception of Windy Gyle, Auchope Cairn and the Schil (which straddle the Border Ridge), they all rise in England. Of these, Hedgehope, Cairn Hill, Comb Fell, Bloody Bush Edge and Cushat Law all top 2000ft (610m). At the western extremity of the range the principal hills of Peel Fell and Carter Fell also have a foot on each side of the border. The very nature of the Cheviot terrain makes it possible for the hill walker to traverse the tops without any great loss of height or energy, while still maintaining a steady pace.

Pathways, trails and directional markers are sparse, and in places nonexistent (with the exception of the Pennine Way, the Southern Upland Way and St Cuthbert’s Way, some Roman roads and the occasional drove road). Although the majority of walks are over paths and trails that ease the walker’s progress, there are isolated locations where ‘traffic’ is heavy. Before the installation of the slabbed pathway, the summit plateau of Cheviot and sections of the Pennine Way could degenerate into a mire in adverse weather. Exposed rock in the Cheviots is a shy bird, rarely revealing itself in any quantity, making these hills an unhappy hunting ground for the rock climber, and an area with only an occasional pitch for the scrambler (Walks 7 and possibly 9 include scrambles).

The majority of ‘walk-ins’ are from the Scottish side, where the approaches are not hindered by the serried ranks of conifers in the forests of Kielder and Redesdale. Nor are the Scottish foothills restricted by the activities of a very vigorous MOD, as at Redesdale, where high-powered missiles ‘crump’ daily into the English side of the range.

Few if any roads, apart from the A68 at Carter Bar, cross the main ridge north to south, nor is there a continuous road that encircles the Cheviots, which results in miles of unpopulated uplands. Apart from occasional isolated hill farms scattered over the area, the only habitation is in a few villages and hamlets on the extremities of the range. Small towns such as Wooler, Kelso and Jedburgh are situated in the surrounding valleys, some 10 miles from the higher ground. This scattered and sparse population, while enhancing the isolation factor so beloved by walkers, can create a problem for the adventurer who lacks transport. Local bus services, or the post bus, can and do assist in such cases.

The Walks

In this chapter are 16 walks. Walk 1 starts at Old Yeavering, the extreme eastern limit of the Cheviot range, and ascends the eastern Cheviots, a fine introduction to the outliers of Muckle Cheviot. Walk 2 surmounts Cheviot, the highest mountain in the range, by a well-trodden path that offers to the energetic fine views of the Border hills and the Tweed Valley. Walk 3 climbs Hedgehope Hill, the second highest mountain in Northumbria, includes the finest waterfall in the Cheviots, and traverses moorland and forest with only the birds and animals for company.

A change of start brings Walk 4 to Scotland, where the Halterburn Valley winds through the gentle northern foothills, by the high road and the low road. The Halterburn Horseshoe, a valley and ridge walk of high quality, describes Walk 5 perfectly. Walk 6 follows a reivers’ way into England, passing two lonely Border hill farms, several ancient settlements, a burial cairn or two, and several thousand sheep.

Remaining in Scotland, the next five walks have their starts and finishes at the historic farm of Cocklawfoot, deep in the Bowmont Valley. Walk 7 is rich in scenery, wildlife, history, legend and personal reward, though a deal of effort is needed to scramble up the Hen Hole and negotiate the corrie to Auchope Cairn. Walk 8 has a long but pleasant walk-in to the Schil, at 1985ft (605m) the most spectacular non-mountain in the Cheviots. Walk 9 will demand effort and experience from the walker, and involves a little wild walking and perhaps the use of map and compass. The ability to identify Second World War aircraft could also add interest. Walk 10 by comparison is an easier, more sedate mountain route along the historic scenic path to the summit of Windy Gyle – a fine walk on a summer’s evening, a gem on a crisp winter’s day with a few inches of fresh snow underfoot.

Further west along the Border Ridge, from the tiny hamlet of Hownam, Walk 11 follows the trails of our Iron Age ancestors, the legions of Rome and the cattle drovers. The ascent of Hownam Law brings the walker to the very edge of the northern Cheviots. Secluded Greenhill is the start of Walk 12, a fine ridge and valley walk into the heart of a complex of Iron Age settlements – good paths and tracks add bounce to the step. The black waters of Heatherhope Reservoir start Walk 13, bound for the Street, the Border Ridge and Callaw Cairn, and up to mysterious Church Hope Hill. Tow Ford on the upper reaches of Kale Water is the start and finish of Walk 14, which ventures into England via Dere Street to visit a Roman encampment at Chew Green. Walk 15 marches north to the edge of the high ground, to return along another section of Dere Street, past the ancient stone circle of Five Stanes and finish at the Roman marching camp of Pennymuir. The Border crossing of Carter Bar starts Walk 16 over Carter Fell to visit old lime kilns and drift mines.

Scald Hill above Langleeford Hope (Walk 2)

Easter, Newton and Wester Tors