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WALK 1

Early Christianity and Iron Age Forts

Start/Finish	Old Yeavering, GR 924304
Distance	7 miles (11.3km)
Total Ascent	1962ft (598m)
Grade	3
Time	4–4½ hours
Maps	OS 1:25 000 Explorer OL16, The Cheviot Hills OS 1:50 000 Landranger sheet 74, Kelso & Coldstream Harvey 1:40 000 SuperWalker, Cheviot Hills
Parking	On the verges at the Old Yeavering T-junction, GR 924304
Accommodation	Wooler – hotels, bed-and-breakfasts, youth hostel, caravan park

Two of the Cheviots’ finest grandstands, Wester Tor and Yeavering Bell, are visited en route. These typical Cheviot hills are rich in character, history and far-seeing views.

A fine introduction to the extreme east end of the Cheviot Range via a selection of ascending or descending, rarely on the level, waymarked public footpaths, permitted paths and St Cuthbert’s Way. Underfoot ranges from stony roads, dirt-and-grass tracks to narrow peat paths through heather, bracken and hilltop rock.

Compass and map are essential in low visibility or adverse weather conditions.

A country road, the B6351, runs west from the Wooler to Milfield A697 at Akeld for 2¼ miles (3.6km) to Old Yeavering junction on the left, bearing a finger post reading ‘Yeavering Bell 1 mile, Hethpool 2½ miles’. Limited grass verge parking by the finger post marks the start of the walk.

Walk up the stony cart track, with the domed summit of Yeavering Bell ahead and above, to pass the cottages and a second finger post, then veer right by the farm buildings. At the end of these a stile on the left directs to ‘The Hillfort Trail – Yeavering Bell ¾ mile’, which will be our return route. However, continuing ahead over the burn we take the steadily ascending scenic cart track southwest over several cattle-grids, alongside the tree-lined and bracken-clad gouged course of Yeavering Burn. After about 1 mile (1.6km), as the way levels out and we pass several venerable oaks, a clutch of earth-fast boulders and a conifer stand, we meet the latest of the Borders national trails, St Cuthbert’s Way, before Torleehouse. (This route enables the walker to tackle the very steep northern flank of Yeavering Bell as a return descent and not an initial lung-bursting ascent.)

Old Yeavering ‘Ad-Gebrin’ or ‘Gefrin’ it was called in the sixth century, this timber palace built for the kings of Northumbria and enlarged for King Edwin, 616–33. Here also the missionary Paulinus came to Edwin’s marriage, and for 35 days afterwards converted Northumbrians to Christianity.

St Cuthbert’s Way A truly Border country middle-distance walk covering 62½ miles (100km) from Melrose in the heart of the Scottish Borders to Lindisfarne – Holy Island – anchored to Northumberland’s northern coastline. We meet this popular walk several times within the eastern Cheviots.

At the waymark post on our left we turn left onto a grass, stone-embedded cart track, passing what would appear to be the mounds, ditches, and piles of rocks and stones of a centuries-old farming homestead, as we climb south then east and finally south-southeast to cross the wall by a ladder-stile on the skyline ahead. From this point St Cuthbert’s Way demands a few deep breaths as the contours close in and grass gives way to heather and bracken, where feral goats can be seen on the wide and wild expanse of far-seeing ridge and hill. 547yds (500m) from the last ladder-stile look out for an unusual four-way directional marker standing 12 inches above the ground: ‘South-south-east Commonburn House, west Easter Tor ¾ mile – Wester Tor 2 miles, east Yeavering Bell ¾ mile’.

At this point, should you consider that the journey to Wester Tor and the return makes the walk too long and/or strenuous, turn left, facing the inviting slopes with visible paths to the intriguing summit of Yeavering Bell. If you wish to explore further, however, and save the best to last, turn right and cross the stone dyke by ladder-stile. Now ascend 492ft (150m) via the permissive path through heather and white grass west and then south and southwest over the southern flanks of Easter Tor with its outcrop of summit rock. This tor is the least interesting of the three, so continue southwest and south-southwest over the more gentle, sloping southern shoulders of Newton Tors for 1¼ miles (2km) on a pathway that provides sightings of the formidable bulk of the Cheviot. As the path swings west and then north to the col dividing the flat dome of Wester Tor 1762ft (537m) and cairn-capped Hare Law 1700ft (518m), turn left to join the stone dyke leading west to the summit of Hare Law – a fine grandstand from which to gaze upon the north face of Cheviot and admire the elegant sweep of the College Valley far below. Return via the stone dyke to the jeep track and walk north to the summit of Wester Tor and the cairned rocks on its northeastern shoulder, another superb eyrie from which to appreciate the surrounding hills and the Northumberland coastline.

Newton Tors This attractive hill with its triple peaks – Easter Tor, Wester Tor and Hare Law – is a challenge and a pleasure to behold. A northern outlier of Cheviot and flanking the eastern side of the College Valley, it was formed some 400 million years ago from the larval outpourings of the Cheviot volcanoes. Wester Tor and Hare Law are crowned with distinct and handsome cairns.

The summit of Yeavering Bell

Descend from the outcrop, returning south and northeast on the outward path below Easter Tor, focusing on the twin domes of Yeavering Bell, to the four-way directional marker on St Cuthbert’s Way. Cross the path east and drop southeast with the waymarked Hill Fort Trail permissive path into the steep-sided bracken-filled gully of Yeavering Burn, then zigzag out to begin an exciting but never strenuous ascent northeast to the col between the twin summit domes. This hill has a presence that befits its status as Northumbria’s largest Iron Age hill fort. Stones and rocks are in profusion, the remains of surrounding fortifications and horseshoe dwellings scattered everywhere. Keep to the main path northeast to the col, for it allows clear passage through the defensive wall. The reward is a complete circle of outstanding views and a summit of great interest.

Leave the saddle from between the summit domes through a partial gap in the surrounding wall. Follow the waymarked Hill Fort Trail to descend steeply on a rocky peat path, wet in places at lower levels, that zigzags overall north, descending sharply to the clearly visible buildings of Old Yeavering 853ft (260m) below. This descent requires respect and care in adverse conditions.

Yeavering Bell A shapely conical hill 1184ft (361m) with twin domes on which stood the largest Iron Age hill fort in Northumbria. Prominent elliptical earthworks and ditches, together with the foundations of horseshoe-shaped dwellings with entrances facing southeast, can still be seen.