Читать книгу Bread Matters: The sorry state of modern bread and a definitive guide to baking your own - Andrew Whitley - Страница 70

It often seems that the only measure of flour quality that counts is loaf volume. In addition to the remarks about flavour above, I would point out that there is an inverse correlation between volume and nutritional value. The more white flour there is in a dough, the more gluten and hence the bigger the aggregate volume of all the fermentation gases trapped in the dough structure. The bran layers and the wheat germ, where almost all the minerals and micronutrients reside, are not capable of holding gas: they act as a dead weight which must be ‘carried’ by the gluten structure. So any dough with an appreciable amount of bran and germ (e.g. made with a flour of 85 per cent extraction or higher) cannot be expected to expand to the volume of its all-white counterpart. The same applies to dough enriched with other ingredients such as seeds, nuts, fruits, vegetables and spices: all will tend to depress loaf volume. But so what? Let’s have a little less stress on structural engineering and a little more on flavour and nutrition. Bread is food, after all.