Читать книгу Mountain Adventures in the Maurienne - Andy Hodges - Страница 10
ОглавлениеINTRODUCTION
Where do French mountain guides go for their holidays? I once asked a guide this question, while standing on the summits of the Domes du Miage in the Mont Blanc range, and he pointed to some rose-pink-tipped summits in the far distance. ‘La Vanoise,’ was the reply. And so began an adventure to discover a range of mountains steeped in history, modest in altitude and of breathtaking beauty. The Vanoise massif is a beautiful range of mountains bounded by the valleys of the Maurienne and the Tarentaise. The Maurienne valley is over 60km long, towered over by peaks of staggering symmetry straight from a child's drawing of mountains. Many figures from history and mountaineering legend have trod through its forests and along its ancient tracks; yet the valley is somehow forgotten by the British mountaineering fraternity, despite having been at the heart of the early days of Alpine exploration. Now is the time to rediscover the Maurienne.
The Upper Maurienne Valley from the top of the Guy Favre via ferrata
The Maurienne valley in the Savoy region was well known to European travellers; for millennia it was the main route from north-western Europe to the cultural centres of Italy. The English Romantic landscape artist JMW Turner was sufficiently inspired by his crossing of the Col du Mont Cenis to record the experience in a masterpiece, ‘The Passage of Mont Cenis’ (1820). The valley is also one of those believed to be central to the most famous of Alpine journeys, Hannibal's crossing of the Alps. His supposed route into Italy is now a pleasant half-day's walk to a far-reaching viewpoint. The valley also once formed the main route from Lyon to Milan and was part of the Spice Road between these two important cities – the village of Termignon had a chapel dedicated to Notre Dame de Poivre (Our Lady of the Pepper).
The French–Italian border in this area has shifted many times and there are nearly 30 fortresses in the valley, evidence of the many border conflicts. (Today, the Victor Emmanuel Fort Complex forms the focus of a series of breathtaking via ferratas described in this book.) In 1805 Napoleon Bonaparte ordered the construction of a road from the valley to aid his invasion of Italy. Throughout the mid-1800s the Dukes of Savoy fought long and hard here to maintain their sovereignty, as Savoy was a contested region between France and the Kingdom of Italy, under Victor Emmanuel.
The explorer Edward Whymper devoted a chapter of Scrambles Amongst the Alps to the ingenuity of the Fell railway and Frejus tunnel, both engineered to cross the Alps from here and in World War II fierce battles were fought to gain control of the road. The famous Maginot (or Alpine) Line, built to defend the French border, ran through the valley and on many of the routes in this guidebook you will see the remains of fortifications and evidence of the front line.
So why have so few British mountaineers heard of this once well-known area? Perhaps it is because it lacks the highest peaks – nowhere is the 4000m contour reached – and has fewer glaciated summits than the higher and more famous Alpine regions. But this only makes it perfect for the connoisseurs of mid-grade mountain adventures, those wanting challenging routes and those wanting to mix and match their mountain activities.
The valley offers some of the finest modern via ferratas in France, routes specifically designed for sport, with reliable and well-maintained equipment taking direct lines up soaring cliffs and into the deepest of gorges. Walks and scrambles allow real summits to be reached from the valley in a day, with views reaching to the highest mountain giants in the distance, and mountaineering journeys allow the high summits to be reached without tackling glaciers. Cyclists will find themselves surrounded by Alpine giants familiar to any Tour de France follower, Col de l'Iseran, Col du Galibier and Col de la Croix de Fer amongst them. Nor will mountain bikers be disappointed, with waymarked trails threading through the forests and ski lifts to take the sting out of long climbs. Plenty of rock climbing venues cater for everyone climbing from V Diff through to the higher E grades.
The view down into the Maurienne valley from near Lac de l'Arcelle (Route 1)
This guidebook is broken into sections according to interest and is written for someone visiting the region for a couple of weeks to explore and enjoy a number of mountain activities, maybe with different companions. The aim is also to ignite an interest in this beautiful region and encourage you to return for more mountain adventures in the future.
Geography
The Maurienne valley forms the southern side of the Vanoise massif and has two very different aspects. The southern side of the valley has developed as a ski area for winter sports and has a number of different ski stations, each opening its lifts on different days in the summer to make walking and mountain biking more accessible. Tranquillity is maintained on the other days. Access on this side of the valley is much more open and well-behaved dogs are welcome. To the north is the Vanoise National Park, offering peace and seclusion amid unspoilt surroundings.
Sitting on the French–Italian border, the Upper Maurienne (Haute Maurienne) has a southern boundary bordering the Italian region of Piedmont. Its northern border is less pronounced, as the massif of the Vanoise blurs the boundary with the Tarentaise valley. These two valleys, the Haute Maurienne and the Tarentaise, border the national park to north and south, while the Gran Paradiso National Park borders the area to the east. The Maurienne valley, carved by the Arc river, stretches for over 60km in length but the Upper Maurienne comprises the region between Modane and the highest summits overlooking Bonneval-sur-Arc and climbing to the Col de l'Iseran.
There are a number of recognised long-distance routes that pass through the valley or use it as part of a circuit. The most famous trek must be the GR5, which wends its way from Geneva to Nice and traverses the valley side for a few days of its journey. A less well-known and more recent route is the Via Alpina. This is a family of long-distance paths stretching across the Alps and crossing numerous national borders. The longest is the Red Trail, which at 161 stages is a mammoth walk; two of those stages, stages 123 and 124, pass through the valley, as the route heads south to Monaco.
The Vanoise National Park
The northern part of the Maurienne valley gained national park status in 1963, the Parc National de la Vanoise (PNV), and was inaugurated in 1965 at the base of the Monolith at Sardières. It was the first national park in France and shares a boundary with the Italian Gran Paradiso National Park, the two parks becoming twinned in 1972. Although the PNV is quite compact, covering 520km2, in combination with Gran Paradiso it forms the largest nature reserve in western Europe at over 1250km2. The peripheral zone around the reserve acts as a buffer to further expansion and adds a further 1450kms2 of managed environment. The 600km of footpaths allow plenty of exploring within the park and the extensive network of paths in the peripheral zone more than doubles this, guaranteeing both a diversity of routes and solitude on all but the most popular routes. The national park designation has preserved the area from extensive development and protects the rural nature of Alpine agriculture. Compared to national parks in the UK there are more restrictions on activities, in particular:
wild camping is not permitted. The only camping allowed within the park is lightweight tents next to refuges during July and August. There is a fee payable, which includes the use of the refuge facilities.
all rubbish must be carried out; rubbish may not be left at the refuges.
dogs are not permitted at all.
flying (even using a paraglider) is prohibited.
no mountain biking is permitted (with only one route exception).
no fires are permitted.
Enjoying the view of the glaciers from Mont Froid (Route 7)
The national park attracts over a third of a million visitors each year but many of these will be skiers enjoying the famous resorts of Val d'Isère and Tignes. In summer it is quieter on paths and roads, but has sufficient infrastructure to make backpacking and trekking enjoyable without the need to carry many days' supplies at a time.
Geology
The Maurienne valley was carved out long ago by an enormous glacial system. Its numerous tributaries formed the long side valleys leading into the main Arc valley. Many of these valleys still have glaciers in their upper reaches but these are retreating at an alarming rate and some will be lost in the coming decades. Climate change and glacial retreat are more apparent here than in most other parts of the Alps.
The rock here is mainly metamorphic and consists of reasonably well compacted schist and gneiss on the upper slopes. Conglomerate features in the valley, especially around Sollières where climbing on the localised pudding stone can be as much a lesson in geology as sport.
Near Sardières are two particularly unusual geological features, the Monolith and the Microlith. These impressive fingers of rock reach for up to 90m into the sky and host some challenging rock climbs within the capability of reasonably experienced climbers. The towers were formed by the dissolution of the surrounding beds of gypsum, leaving behind the limestone pillars.
Wildlife
The more remote valleys and high Alpine pastures of the Haute Maurienne are a haven for wildlife. The bouquetin (or ibex) population of the higher valleys is of national importance and their population is growing steadily. Animals from here are also being used to repopulate other mountain areas in France. Bouquetin are magnificent animals that move in herds and are easily identifiable from their dark brown coats, muscular build and iconic horns. Chamois are also in abundance and are likely to be encountered above the treeline on mountain slopes. Smaller than bouquetin, with longer legs and shorter horns, they will frequently be seen clambering among rocky outcrops and grazing on seemly barren slopes.
Bouquetin above l'Ecot
Marmots will be heard before they are seen. Their shrill alarm calls echo around the valley and these members of the rodent family can be seen standing atop rocky outcrops on sentry duty. An adult marmot will weigh around 5–7kg, and they live in communes of two or three generations. Once used for meat, fur and medicinal purposes, marmots are now a protected species. They hibernate during the winter and can be seen from late April onwards once the snow starts to melt. One particularly pleasant place to observe them is from the veranda of the Femma Refuge, although any open sunny mountainside will host any number of marmot family groups feasting on berries.
Less frequently seen are the large birds of prey. Golden eagles and bearded vultures live in the mountains and may well be seen soaring on the thermals. Ptarmigan and black grouse (tetras-lyre) also populate the mountains, along with nutcrackers, choughs and snow finches.
Lizards may well be spotted basking on rocks in the sun from Easter onwards, along with a whole host of butterflies and insects.
KEEPING SAFE AROUND THE PASTOU
Not strictly wildlife but an animal almost certain to be encountered is the pastou. These are large, white dogs that roam the mountainsides with flocks of sheep. Their role is to protect the flock from predators and threats, so they will be interested in your presence. The advice from the National Park is reprinted below.
A pastou coming to investigate
Keep your distance, making a wide detour around the flock.
Remember these dogs are guard dogs, don't try to pet them, feed them or do anything they might misinterpret as a threat.
Behave calmly when passing them; avoid loud noises and sudden movements – this is probably particularly important if you have children with you.
If one comes towards you stand still and allow it to work out what you're doing, avoid eye contact as dogs interpret eye-to-eye communication as a challenge. Walking away calmly and quietly is very effective.
Plants and flowers
The Alpine meadows are a riot of colour in the summer months, and a lazy picnic amongst the multicoloured carpet of wild flowers can form the centrepiece to a relaxing ‘day off’. Many of the flowers will be familiar to keen gardeners; others will be recognisable to even the least skilled flower spotter. Edelweiss can be spotted in sunny open places high above the treeline. Great splashes of white St Bruno's lily and a range of anemone, Alpine gentians and campanulas are frequently discovered on the high mountains, while in the valleys orchids are also found in damp spots. The meadows near Bonneval-sur-Arc and l'Ecot are carpeted with orchids, polygonum and dianthus in the summer months.
Alpine gentian
Oeillet Negligée
Edelweiss
Mix of Alpine blooms in the high pastures
Trees are limited to the lower slopes and many walks are above the treeline, but the forests of Arolla Pine will provide welcome shade on valley walks and rides. These trees regularly live to over 600 years but are slow growing and as a result are vulnerable to deforestation. Careful management of the forests is very important, and the wood is popular with artisans because it has a good grain and is easy to work with. The larch is another commonly seen tree growing abundantly in the upper valley. It is unique in the conifer family as it loses its needles each winter.
History
Since the earliest of times the Maurienne valley has been occupied by human beings, and there is ample archaeological evidence stretching back to the Bronze Age and earlier. Much of this early history is explained in the museum at Sollières. The valley has served as a thoroughfare for travellers since Roman times, if not earlier. It is possible that it was the route Hannibal took to cross the Alps in 218BC on his famous journey, although no definitive archaeological evidence has ever been found of his crossing anywhere in the Alps. The route, via Col Clapier (Route 4), was still used as a main thoroughfare into the 16th century but once a more suitable route had been forged, over the Col du Mont Cenis, this old route fell into disrepair.
The region's economy has always been a mixture of agriculture and transport/tourism. The first road suitable for motor vehicles crossing the Alps was the Mont Cenis road. This was an improvement on the magnificent road constructed in the early 19th century on the orders of Napoleon to ease traffic over the pass to Italy. The modern-day road takes the same line, and the uniform gradient and sweeping curves make the 700m climb a joy, even on a bicycle. Technical innovations in transport were also tried and tested in the valley. The Fell railway, which was built from Saint-Michel-de-Maurienne to Susa, was described by the English illustrator, climber and explorer, Edward Whymper, as ‘a marvel’.
Roman remains in Susa
This used a system to climb steep slopes, a precursor to the funicular railway; it followed the road for the main part, with an ingenious third rail placed in the centre of the track. The rail was ‘gripped’ by two wheels to allow a train to climb much steeper gradients than normal. Once over the pass, the descent to Susa was protected from avalanches by long covered sections. This was such a severe descent that the brake linings had to be replaced after each descent! Remains of these sections can still be seen next to the road today. The railway was an experimental undertaking and was dismantled when the railway tunnel at Frejus was constructed. This tunnel was started in 1857 and the two teams of tunnellers shook hands on 26 December 1870, with the first train travelling in September 1871.
Because of its strategic transport importance, the region has had a strong military presence. The House of Savoy has its origins in Sardinia and in the early 19th century its lands stretched from Lac Léman to the Mediterranean. The Victor Emmanuel Fort complex near Modane is the most striking feature of their reign in the region. The forts were built to repel invasion and each is named for a prominent member of the House of Savoy. The frontier has changed repeatedly (the most obvious example of this is to be found on the slopes of Cime du Laro, Route 19).
One of the many war memorials recording the great losses suffered in the valley right through the war
During WWII the strategic importance of the valley was not lost to either side. The subterranean fort complex near Modane (part of an extended Maginot line built by the French during the military build-up in the 1930s) is a sober reminder of the conflict that came to this beautiful valley. The vicious weather conditions must have made the desperate battles for the high ground on Mont Froid, Pointe de Cugne and Petit Signal du Mont Cenis in April 1945 even more difficult. Footage in the museum at the Pyramide du Mont Cenis of the French soldiers receiving American rations in the snow shows just what the conditions must have been like.
Art and culture
The Maurienne was the road to and from Italy for those taking part in Grand Tours, and this has inevitably left its creative mark, with Baroque architecture and design particularly in evidence. Indeed, one church in Lanslebourg has been converted into a museum of Baroque architecture and artwork. Many other churches and chapels in the valley were designed in this style and are often open for visitors. A number of artisans throughout the valley also encourage visitors and sell direct to the public. The glass-blowing workshop at Avrieux and woodworkers at Sollières welcome visitors and sell unusual pieces made on site. Many dairies give guided tours (usually in French) of milk and cheese production, and also offer ‘vente directe’ for great prices and an opportunity to see the source of such wonderful food. The local cheeses are of international renown and a key ingredient in many a picnic lunch.
Folklore abounds in the mountains and the Haute Maurienne is no exception. In or near Bessans many statues and paintings feature a four-horned devil. According to folklore a local man, Joseph, was contracted to build a bridge over the Arc. He fell behind in his work and was worried that he might end up imprisoned for failing to fulfil his commitment in the allotted time. The Devil appeared and made Joseph an offer that in return for his assistance the Devil would be allowed the soul of the first to cross the bridge. Joseph readily agreed and the bridge was duly completed on time. On the day of the opening, a troop of soldiers were approaching the bridge, led by a small local boy. Knowing what would happen to the boy if he was first to cross, Joseph's wife chased a goat onto the bridge. The goat saw the Devil and, mistaking him for another billy goat, charged him. His horns pierced the Devil's skull and the Devil escaped, never to be seen again.
Another tale gives an ancient account of the formation of the Chasseforêt glacier. ‘Chasse forêt’ translates as hunting forest, and this tale begins with a group of herdsmen tending their herds and flocks on the high mountain pastures and forest land. While they were engrossed in milking the cows and goats a beggar woman approached and asked for some milk. The men refused and sent her away with some strong words. She cursed the men and vowed they would regret their decision. That evening it began to snow. The snow continued to fall throughout the following days, steadily covering the pasture and forest. Eventually they were covered by such an accumulation of snow it began to turn to ice, putting the pasture out of reach of the herdsmen. The curse is said to have cut those pastures off for ever.
A typical lunch high in the mountains, Dents des Ambin in the background
A more recent tale features Flambeau, a dog who throughout the 1930s delivered post to the fort high on the summit of Mont Froid. For ten years he made his way each day from Lanslebourg to the fort with the military mail and then returned home. In pride of place in Lanslebourg high street is a memorial stone to this epic journey and faithful canine postman.
In this area, pride in traditional ways of life is very evident. Traditional dress is celebrated and hospitality centres on the fabulous local produce. There are many local shows and festivals celebrating all things agricultural and rural. Highlights include a wonderful community re-enactment of the Nativity in December at Bessans, the National Accordion Festival in Termignon in January, and a five-day husky dog sled race (le Grand Odyssée) throughout the valley in January. Any of these would add interest to a winter ski holiday. The summer festivals include a week-long astronomy festival, taking advantage of clear skies and the minimal light pollution to star gaze. The French national holiday on 15 August is cause to celebrate food and farming, with festivals and events throughout the valley. Sheep shearing and herding are demonstrated, along with dances and traditional dress parades. A growing mountain sports festival in August encourages novices and children to try a range of outdoor sports in collaboration with the local mountain guiding bureaus. The local tourist offices produce a free weekly newsletter outlining the upcoming events.
Travel
The Maurienne valley is served by very good transport links, and travelling to the valley by public transport is perfectly feasible. Modane serves as the gateway to the upper valley and has a railway station with links from Paris and Turin, served by the TGV. The journey from Paris to Modane is around 4hrs, and by taking the Eurostar from St Pancras to Paris the journey can be both quick and environmentally responsible (without the complex baggage limits of airlines). Buses and taxis are readily available from the station into the upper reaches of the valley.
Lanslebourg in bloom
The A43 motorway enters the valley on its way to Turin and probably is the transport link many people will use. The favoured route is Calais-Reims-Dijon-Lyon-Chambéry-Modane. This avoids Paris and its associated traffic problems. In 2010 the motorway tolls were around €70 each way. A reasonable travel time from Calais is 10 to 11hrs. Taking an afternoon crossing and driving to the Champagne region will break the journey. Troyes is a beautiful medieval town with a pedestrianised town centre and countless Tudor-style buildings. The next day's journey is then around 6hrs and makes for an afternoon arrival in the valley.
Budget hotel chains Formule1 and Etap offer good value, basic accommodation when you are travelling, and you can arrive any time as you can swipe your credit card at the door to gain access to your room. This means you can travel further later into the evening, but make sure you pre-book online.
Viamichelin is a useful route-planning website. It has information on the tolls for motorways and speed cameras; it also allows you to print out plans with the motorway signs included, which is of great help to the less confident co-driver.
On a Saturday in school summer holidays a good portion of Europe is travelling through France, and you would be well advised to avoid being part of the masses if at all possible – queues of an hour or more at booths for the Péage (toll roads) are not uncommon. The credit card lanes seem to move quicker.
Flying is also an option and there are a number of airports within 2 to 3hrs of the valley. Lyon, Turin, Chambéry and Geneva are all within striking distance, and the smaller airports offer quick check-in and arrival procedures, so you can be on the road in a hire car in no time.
Dent Parrachée from the Bellecombe road in winter. Perfect easy ski touring and snowshoeing abounds
Camping Mélèzes: a peaceful and shaded site that makes a perfect base camp within easy walking distance of Termignon village centre
When to go
The Maurienne valley is an outdoor adventure wonderland and offers winter sports for all, including renowned ski touring in late springtime. Snowshoeing is also popular right up until mid-to late May when the road passes begin to be opened up. What might be considered UK winter conditions will prevail in the higher mountains into June. The summer season really begins in July and extends through to late September. Early season snow will lie on the upper mountains in July and bare ice will be all that remains from late August. Almost all the routes in this guide will be snow and ice-free from mid-July onwards.
One event to bear in mind if planning a visit in July is the Tour de France cycle race. If the route follows the valley then there will be very heavy road congestion and all camping facilities will be fully booked.
Accommodation
Termignon is a reasonably central base for the Haute Maurienne. It is a quiet village situated about halfway along the valley, meaning you can easily access the climbing and via ferratas lower down the valley, the side valleys, the national park and the upper valley. The village has a tourist information centre (which posts a three-day weather forecast in English updated daily and has free internet access), an ATM, a new supermarket and petrol station, cave de vin selling many local wines, local produce shop, equipment shop, a few bars and a couple of restaurants, along with a few fabulous cheese shops.
There is an abundance of self-catering accommodation available at Termignon's new apartment complex. These are clean, well-appointed apartments only finished in 2006. The view from the pool/gym area is a breathtaking vista of la Dent Parrachée.
There is a great campsite in the village offering two venues, one by the river in the shade and the other slightly higher in the sunshine. Site fees are very good value: in 2009 it cost slightly over €10 per night for a large pitch, a car and two people. It is clean and has plenty of hot water throughout the day. (You don't need to worry about grabbing a shower before the hot water runs out!) A little van selling bread and croissants signals its arrival with a cheerful beeping at 8.30 each morning.
Lanslebourg is the largest village after Modane and offers plenty of choice of accommodation. It also has a number of banks, equipment shops, restaurants and other shops (including a pharmacy).
Modane is a large town, and most people will pass through on their journey to the upper valley. There are two supermarkets, one at each end of town; both have petrol stations. There is an interesting range of shops including an organic supermarket, l'Esprit Vert, which also stocks a small range of vegetarian foods (an uncommon find in France and a welcome one for any committed vegetarian in a group).
There are plenty of other campsites and rental accommodation throughout the valley – they are similarly priced to Termignon and offer quiet sites in picturesque surroundings.
Mountain refuges
The range of refuges in the mountains is very welcome whether as a base for a multi-day adventure, a single night as a launch pad to a summit or just for a welcome drink or spot of lunch. Many of them are owned by the French Alpine Club (CAF), while others are owned by the national park (PNV) and some are privately run. Costs are broadly similar but do vary from hut to hut, with demi-pension (three-course evening meal, dormitory bed and breakfast) costing around €40 in 2011.
There is a certain refuge etiquette which should be observed when staying in mountain huts. If you transgress these unwritten rules you can expect scowls and displeasure from the guardian!
First, and probably most important of all, is to pre-book. Turning up on spec means the hut may already be full, although the guardian is unlikely to turn you away it could mean you spend the night on the floor of the dining room with a blanket, in the woodshed (as happened to a friend in Austria) or in a corridor. None of these are particularly appealing options; a simple phone call can avoid such discomfort. It is possible to book huts further in advance via tourist information offices or via email from the CAF website and this is recommended in the height of summer, especially at weekends.
The Vallonbrun Refuge nestled into its hidden valley with Dent Parrachée in the distance (Routes 2 and 49)
On arrival remove your boots in the porch/entrance hall. Put them in a pigeon hole (or whatever storage is present) and put on the clogs or slippers provided (or put on your own if you have decided to carry them). Then report to the guardian. Never enter in your boots – you will be scowled at (or worse) and it will instantly identify you as a novice and foreigner to mountain huts. The guardian and his/her assistants spend a lot of time keeping the refuge clean and will not welcome muddy footprints across their dining room floor.
If you have a British Mountaineering Club (BMC) or Austrian Alpine Club (AAC) reciprocal rights card present it to the guardian as you register for a reduction in fees – these are only usually accepted at Club Alpin Français (CAF) huts. Tell him/her your plans for tomorrow as you will be placed in a dormitory with people needing to get up at a similar time. (This is more of an issue when you are climbing and therefore need to get up at 4am or even earlier!) It is also worth being aware that there are no single-sex dormitories; they are all mixed.
At this point you will be asked whether you want evening meals and may be allocated first or second sitting if it is really busy. Vegetarians need a good sense of humour as evening meals often consist of eggs and something or pasta and sauce – tell the guardian of any special dietary requirements when you book in. It is also possible to self-cater and huts carry a range of implements but charge for the use of the stove and gas.
Lights out is usually relatively early (9 or 10pm); sort your kit out well before then. When you arrive take wet things to the drying room then organise your other kit: lay out your sheet sleeping bag, find your headtorch, wallet and other belongings. You will be the most unpopular dormitory resident if you start rummaging for things when others are trying to sleep.
Pay your bill before you go to bed. The guardian is usually very busy in the morning and you might waste a lot of time waiting for him/her to be available, while everyone else is setting off. Ensure you have cash as very few huts take credit cards.
Don't forget to check the drying room before you leave; it could be a long trek back for anything you've left behind!
Language
Typical signposting
French is the language of the region, but Italian is also spoken as the region has had long-standing links with Italy; indeed ‘ciao’ is the standard greeting in the upper valley. English is spoken in tourist information centres but not necessarily by all staff. Younger members of staff often have a smattering of English but fluent English speakers are few and far between. The proprietor of Bar Marine in Termignon has a good command of English and makes great efforts to welcome English visitors. As always, a game attempt in French is welcomed and the long tradition of catering for travellers throughout the ages means visitors are invariably welcomed and helped. A French phrase book will be a worthwhile investment! You are entering French France.
Rescue is professional and efficient; make sure you have sufficient insurance cover
Insurance and rescue
The European Health Insurance Card (replacement for the E111, forms are available online from Department of Health) allows access to the same standard of healthcare as a French national; this is not free at point of delivery like the NHS so good insurance is also required. Insurance needs to include mountain rescue cover and helicopter evacuation. The two most popular options are Snowcard or BMC. To access BMC insurance you need to be a member of the BMC; if not then the membership fees will need to be taken into consideration which will add to the costs. Austrian Alpine Club (AAC) membership also includes annual rescue and repatriation insurance cover with no age limit. Snowcard insurance allows cover to be customised; if you have house contents cover then possessions are probably already covered so it is possible to purchase medical only or medical with cancellation cover, which is significantly cheaper with Snowcard. If you are a couple then you only pay 1.6 times the single person's premium too. Don't forget to photocopy everything and keep it in a waterproof bag.
Make sure the appropriate Mountain Rescue phone numbers are in your mobile before you need them. This will make dialling them in the case of an emergency much easier than trying to dial a long number under extreme stress with cold fingers in the rain or snow.
European Emergency: 112 (118 in Italy)
Be aware, too, that in many parts of the mountains the phone network connects to the stronger Italian signal so a call to French Mountain Rescue may well be via the Italian emergency services.
Helicopter Communications
Do not wave to a helicopter. To indicate that help is needed hold both arms up in a Y shape (see below). To indicate that no help is needed hold one arm diagonally up and the other diagonally down.
Maps and navigation
The French IGN ‘Top 25’ 1:25,000 maps are excellent. They identify the main paths in easy-to-see red, and more difficult sections are marked as red dots. They are sold at supermarkets and many other shops and cost around €9 each. Alternatively, they can be purchased online before you visit and there is now the option of a laminated version. (This isn't available in France, just in the Aqua3 online map shop.) Termignon is one of those places that is on the join of three maps, so three maps are needed to cover the whole area. An alternative is the 1:50,000 map (the Carte de Randonnées A3: Alps Vanoise) which clearly identifies waymarked walking routes, climbing sites, via ferrata venues and mountain bike areas.
1:25,000 Maps
3534OT Les Trois Vallées Modane
3633ET Tignes, Val d'Isère, Haute Maurienne
3634OT Val Cenis Charbonnel
The most recent editions of these maps show the extent of glacial retreat in a different colour.
If you are bringing a GPS, ensure it is programmed to datum WGS 84 and the grid system to UTM/UPS otherwise all grid references will be inaccurate. Don't forget to reprogramme it to UK settings on your return or the same problems will occur back in the UK.
Unlike the UK, paths are waymarked and signed to a high degree. The signage usually gives information in times rather than distance, and these seem to be calculated with a similar formula to Naismith's Rule of 5km per hour. The red-and-white flashes on rocks, walls and buildings will become familiar friends, and the small cycling symbols will also be a welcome aid to route finding.
A friendly sign with an old walking boot being put to good use!
Weather
Weather forecasts are posted at tourist information offices, usually in French with a simpler version in English. These are updated daily and are for the coming night and next two or three days. They are generally accurate but be aware that they are based on Bourg Saint Maurice to the north and so need to be slightly adapted, particularly the timing of weather fronts approaching. You can get them by phone; the current phone number is listed on the weather reports. If you are staying in a refuge, the guardian can be a good source of information and advice on local conditions.
The summit of Pointe de Leche and Dent Parrachée in the background (Route 21)
The sun can be a significant hazard; your sunscreen should be at least SPF15. Solar radiation at 1800m is more than twice that at sea level.
Good quality sunglasses are another must. If you wear spectacles, Optilab may be worth investigating for prescription sports sunglasses at prices not far off ‘normal’ frames and lenses. Photo-chromatic wrap-around glasses are great for all-day use in a variety of weather conditions. Remember, too, that the solar radiation is still there when its overcast.
Clothing
The weather in the Alps can change very dramatically. Snow can fall at any time of the year, even in August. Valley temperatures can drop to 5°C overnight in the summer. Equally, they can rise to over 30°C in the daytime. Therefore a fairly adaptable range of clothing and equipment is required. Given fairly accurate weather forecasts, it is possible to travel light by choosing appropriate equipment for the given weather. There is always a risk with this strategy, but by choosing some of the real lightweight kit available pack weight can be minimised, something which is really worthwhile when walking at higher altitudes.
For a day walk below the snowline the following ought to be perfectly adequate:
30 litre rucksack
Paclite Gore-Tex jacket
softshell trousers (if the forecast is inclement)
trekking trousers – with zip off legs (if forecast is good)
Merino-blend socks
boots – lightweight Gore-Tex lined or a tougher mountain boot depending on the terrain to be encountered
wicking top – either long sleeve or T shirt
mid-weight fleece
lightweight fleece top
wide-brimmed sun hat
stiff-peaked water-resistant fleece-lined hat
gloves
good quality sunglasses – wrap-around style
Buff (microfibrous, multi-functional headwear)
sunscreen and lip salve
small first aid kit
trekking pole(s)
2 or 3 litre drinks bladder
lunch
emergency kit – small head torch; mobile phone; insurance documents; money; passport; gaffer tape; GPS
map and compass
guidebook
camera
Wet weather alternatives
With such a range of activities on offer, there is usually something to do. For a rest day, or when the weather has taken a turn for the worse, there are a number of alternatives.
Crossing a simple snow slope is still likely to need crampons (Route 22)
The Maison du Vanoise at Termignon is an interpretation centre that allows you to understand the traditional lifestyle of the valleys and high mountains. One of the highlights is a model of a typical marmot colony enabling you to see exactly where the little critters go when the lookout whistles! The 3D virtual flight through the national park is a new technological attraction which combines a Google Earth type of projection with a large screen and a joystick control. Free internet access is also available, which may be useful for gaining longer term weather forecasts and keeping in touch. Downstairs is the tourist office and outside are the weather reports and an ATM.
Mini-golf Parrachée
The pyramidal visitor centre at the Lac du Mont Cenis is another interesting place to develop an understanding of the area. It has displays of old farming methods and a section on the battle front of the valley during World War II. A short film (in French) gives an impression of the struggle the mountain troops faced. There are some written English explanations and a useful audio guide in English to help you understand the exhibition.
The mini-golf on the road out of Lanslebourg is popular; although the owner insists it is ‘serious’, it is a favourite with children. The Biathlon d'Eté (summer biathlon) centre at Bessans has a permanent summer course for roller skiing, which is like cross-country skiing without the snow. Equipment (including safety pads and helmet) can be hired locally and a day ticket purchased. Instruction is available and rollerblading is also welcome. Courses are colour-graded and surfaced in a smooth tarmac. Falls are inevitable, so jeans, or at least long trousers, are recommended.
The high ropes adventure courses (parcours aventure) at the Redoute Marie Thérèse near Modane and another on the road to Bellecombe from Termignon are sure to be a big hit with children (and those who enjoy thinking they're still ten years old).
There are numerous small artisans offering their wares: glassmaking, pottery and ‘artisan du bois’ abound and vary in style from beautiful to the more acquired taste. A visit to Bois s'Amuse in Sollières offers you a range of very reasonably priced wooden toys and ornaments.
Susa is a small Italian town ‘over the pass’ from Lanslebourg and was an important staging post for the journey from Lyon to Turin. It has a host of Roman remains, including an amphitheatre, triumphal arch and remains of the old wall and aqueduct. On the road over the pass, there are the remains of the covered Fell railway that forms a chapter of Whymper's Scrambles in the Alps.
Should you be in the area, then the refuge and restaurant at Col de l'Iseran has a small exhibition of WWII memorabilia and a gift shop. This is the highest point of the Tour de France when it passes through the area, and you are sure to see road cyclists climbing to the summit of the col.
A fabulous visit for fans of the Winter Olympics must be the Olympic Museum in Albertville, about 1¼hrs from Haute Maurienne. The town makes for a pleasant wander, particularly the old town. The parking in the town centre is very cheap, €2–3 for up to 4hrs. The museum has a host of outfits and artefacts on display and a very interesting short film (with English subtitles) explaining the build-up to the games. Another section has some slightly disturbing reflections on how politicians have hijacked the games for their own ends. A very reasonable entry fee and minimal souvenir shop make you feel that you are welcome to come and enjoy the values of the Olympics.
Crossing the Col du Galibier to explore the walled town of Briançon, the highest town in Europe, is another option. The old town and its maze of streets will be busy on a wet day but there are a number of forts that provide guided tours and a respite from wet weather. Further down the valley is L'Argentière-la-Bessée. This small town has successfully transformed from an industrial town into what may be described as an outdoor capital. It has a white water canoeing course and hosts numerous climbing competitions, as well as being home to the largest ice axe in the world, which stands outside the mairie (town hall). Many of the roads and streets are named after famous mountaineers, so a walk around the town may well turn into a who's who of classic Alpine mountaineering. Nor should you miss the chance to visit the old capital of Savoy, Chambéry, with its elephant statue in the middle of town (a celebration of General de Boigne's exploits in India rather than an indication of Hannibal's passing through the region). The large market on Saturdays, the old town architecture and Dukes' Palace encourage an amble through the maze of backstreets and alleyways. The title of capital of Savoy is also claimed by Saint-Jean-de-Maurienne, which is home to the Opinel knife factory, a French classic. The factory houses a small shop offering a wide range of knives and household tools, all of the highest quality.
The Pas de la Beccia with the frontier barbed wire still visible on the skyline (Route 19)
Further afield, a long day out to Chamonix can fulfil all your gear-shopping dreams. Towards the end of July the shops all have a huge clearout sale aimed at the French holiday market. The Quechua outdoor equipment supermarket at Saint Gervais has more incredible bargains. Chamonix has an interesting museum in the centre of town and a (very expensive) cable car trip up Aiguille de Midi is literally breathtaking, at around 3500m. It is always fun to plonk yourself at a pavement table and wonder just why people are wandering around in spotless outdoor kit in the middle of town. The road trip will be 2hrs or more each way.
Air sports are another option. Tandem paragliding is available in Termignon and pleasure flights can be booked from the Sollières airfield. For current information and advice, ask at the tourist office in Termignon.
Using this guide
Timings
