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CHOOSING AND REARING YOUR PULI PUPPY

As breeders, we have always found newborn Puli puppies to be really very contented little dears. We always think that they are rather like fat little slugs at the beginning. All they want is to feed and sleep. However, the time comes when they start to move around and develop personalities. We think Puli babies are born intelligent, compared to other breeds we have owned. At birth, one of ours, even before being expelled from his mother, was reaching round and trying to suckle. As soon as they are able, they’ll start to crawl around with quite amazing determination. Even the opening of the eyes seems to be very early.

Most Puli pups are quite inquisitive and bold, so the choice of pup cannot be decided by which one is the outgoing character. Depending on whether you wish to show your Puli or keep him as a pet, it is best to be guided in your choice by the breeder or to take along an experienced friend, as the task of choosing is not easy. One would expect a price difference between the pup that appears to be a show prospect and the pup that may have some point that would make him not quite so desirable for exhibition. For example, if a pup has a large flash of white, which will probably not disappear as the puppy grows, that Puli will still make a super family pet but would not have show potential, as only a small (2 inches or less) spot of white on the chest is acceptable in the show ring. We have found that in scrutinizing puppies in the first 36 to 48 hours following birth, it was possible to assess bone and body proportions, overall balance and construction before the well-fed puppy started to gain weight.

HEALTH CLEARANCES

When visiting a litter, a potential owner should ask to see documentation of the litter’s parents’ hip clearances from OFA or another accredited organization; similar hip-testing programs are in place in countries around the world. Good breeders have all of their breeding stock tested and only breed from those dogs and bitches who have received appropriate clearances.

Before breeding, breeders must also make sure that both the bitch and the stud dog have appropriate clearances for hereditary eye diseases.

Resulting puppies should be eye screened as a whole litter prior to dispersal to their new homes. This is best done at seven to eight weeks of age. Any conscientious breeder will willingly produce copies of hip and eye documentation for prospective puppy purchasers from the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) and the Canine Eye Registration Foundation (CERF). Also ask your breeder if he has done any testing for hearing defects.

MEET THE PARENTS

Because puppies are a combination of genes inherited from both of their parents, they will reflect the qualities and temperament of their sire and dam. When visiting a litter of pups, spend time with the dam and observe her behavior with her puppies, the breeder and with strangers. The sire is often not on the premises, but the dam should be with her pups until they are about eight weeks old. If either parent is surly, quarrelsome or fearful, it’s likely that some of the pups will inherit those tendencies.

Caring breeders will have bred from a fit and healthy bitch and will do everything possible to ensure that the litter thrives. Sensible pre-natal feeding of the mother will continue after she whelps so that all possible goodness passes through her milk into the whelps. As soon as they are ready for weaning, we have found that the most forward of our pups will attempt to join mom at her food dish. The youngsters will gradually go on to suitable quality nutrition, so that by the time you collect your new pup he will have received the best possible care. Breeders will also have wormed the litter prior to your collecting your new addition.

How do you go about finding a breeder? The national club for the breed, the Puli Club of America (PCA) can be found online at www.puliclub.org and offers breeder contact information so you can find the breeders in your region of the country. This is a trusted source for breeder referral, as PCA member breeders are obliged to follow the club’s guidelines in their breeding programs, ensuring that certain ethics and standards of care are met. It’s up to you to contact these breeders, set up visits and decide with whom you are most comfortable. When you visit a breeder, ask to see all of his dogs (in addition to the litter, dam and possibly sire), observe the premises, see health documents on the parents (and pups where applicable), review pedigrees, read the breeder’s sales contract, etc. The breeder will also have many questions for you to determine if you are a worthy owner of the breed; he will not agree to sell you a puppy unless he is sure that you can provide a wonderful home. Also be prepared to wait for an available litter and pup, as this is not a numerous breed.

Before the important day arrives, you will have made inquiries as to what foods and accessories you should have ready, such as a crate, toys, grooming tools, food dish, water bowl, etc. Don’t spend a great deal of money on a tiny bed or crate, as puppies grow quite fast and by the time you have an adult in full coat, he will certainly need something larger than he did at eight weeks of age. We advise that if owners want to get a dog bed, they should start off with an adult-sized one and put a smaller shallow cardboard box inside so that the puppy has something cozy to curl up in. The same goes for a crate, which can be partitioned into a puppy-sized area with a removable divider panel.

CREATE A SCHEDULE

Puppies thrive on sameness and routine. Offer meals at the same time each day, take him out at regular times for potty trips and do the same for play periods and outdoor activity. Make note of when your puppy naps and when he is most lively and energetic, and try to plan his day around those times. Once he is housetrained and more predictable in his habits, he will be better able to tolerate changes in his schedule.

When introduced to other dogs properly, Pulik do well in multiple-dog households. This owner has a small Hungarian herd.

Do keep in touch with your breeder, for he will care about the welfare and the future of the puppies he has so carefully reared and will be eager to learn of your progress. He will be the best source of help and advice if you have queries or problems. The caring breeder will have carefully evaluated you as a prospective owner, especially if you have no previous experience. Be understanding as to his concern over the puppy’s future and don’t be upset by his questions and expectations. The breeder should ask you to sign some type of sales agreement (contract). You should not be surprised to be asked to agree that if for any reason you are unable to keep the puppy (or, later, the adult dog) you will first inform the breeder so that he can either take the dog back or be involved in the dog’s rehoming. We should all feel responsible for anything that we breed, from the day it is born until the day it dies. Most Puli clubs have rescue committees to help rehome members of the breed, but the breeder of your dog is the person you should contact first in extenuating circumstances.

SELECTING FROM THE LITTER

Before you visit a litter of puppies, promise yourself that you won’t fall for the first pretty face you see! Decide on your goals for your puppy—show prospect, obedience competitor, family companion—and then look for a puppy who displays the appropriate qualities. In most litters, there is an alpha pup (the bossy puppy), and occasionally a shy fellow who is less confident, with the rest of the litter falling somewhere in the middle. “Middle-of-the-roaders” are safe bets for most families and novice competitors.

YOUR PULI SHOPPING LIST

Just as expectant parents prepare a nursery for their baby, so should you ready your home for the arrival of your Puli pup. If you have the necessary puppy supplies purchased and in place before he comes home, it will ease the puppy’s transition from the warmth and familiarity of his mom and littermates to the brand-new environment of his new home and human family. You will be too busy to stock up and prepare your house after your pup comes home, that’s for sure! Imagine how a pup must feel upon being transported to a strange new place. It’s up to you to comfort him and to let your little pup know that he is going to be happy with you.

FOOD AND WATER BOWLS

Your puppy will need separate bowls for his food and water. Stainless steel pans are generally preferred over plastic bowls since they sterilize better and pups are less inclined to chew on the metal. Heavy-duty ceramic bowls are popular, but consider how often you will have to pick up those heavy bowls. Buy adult-sized pans, as your puppy will grow into them quickly.

THE DOG CRATE

If you think that crates are tools of punishment and confinement for when a dog has misbehaved, think again. Most breeders and almost all trainers recommend a crate as the preferred house-training aid as well as for all-around puppy training and safety. Because dogs are natural den creatures that prefer cave-like environments, the benefits of crate use are many. The crate provides the puppy with his very own “safe house,” a cozy place to sleep, take a break or seek comfort with a favorite toy; a travel aid to house your dog when on the road, at motels or at the vet’s office; a training aid to help teach your puppy proper toileting habits; and a place of solitude when non-dog people happen to drop by and don’t want a lively puppy—or even a well-behaved adult dog—saying hello or begging for attention.

SOME DAM ATTITUDE

When selecting a puppy, be certain to meet the dam of the litter. The temperament of the dam is often predictive of the temperament of her puppies. However, dams occasionally are very protective of their young, some to the point of being testy or aggressive with visitors, whom they may view as a danger to their babies. Such attitudes are more common when the pups are very young and still nursing and should not be mistaken for actual aggressive temperament. If possible, visit the dam away from her pups to make friends with her and gain a better understanding of her true personality.

The three most popular crate types: mesh on the left, wire on the right and fiberglass on top.

Crates come in several types, although the wire crate and the fiberglass airline-type crate are the most popular. The wire crates offer better visibility for the pup as well as better ventilation. Many of the wire crates easily fold into suitcasesize carriers. The fiberglass crates, similar to those used by the airlines for animal transport, are sturdier and more den-like. However, the fiberglass crates do not fold down and are less ventilated than wire crates, which can be problematic in hot weather. Some of the newer crates are made of heavy plastic mesh; they are very lightweight and fold up into slim-line suitcases. However, a mesh crate might not be suitable for a pup with manic chewing habits.

You should have acquired a crate before you brought your new Puli puppy home. Both you and your pup will appreciate the many benefits of crate-training.

At our home, Puli babies are introduced to wire crates at an early age. There is always a crate around for the pups, with its door left open. They can walk in and out, curl up on the bedding and accept the crate as part of their everyday surroundings. As it is always there, it holds no terror. We also find it helpful to feed the pups inside the crate at times, so they only associate the crate with pleasure. When they have been playing and need a rest, settling into the crate is a welcome idea. When the pups have retreated to the crate for a nap, we close the crate door and leave them quiet. You are at an advantage for crate-training if your breeder has introduced the pups to a crate.

SIGNS OF A HEALTHY PUPPY

Healthy puppies are robust little fellows who are alert and active, sporting shiny coats and supple skin. They should not appear lethargic, bloated or pot-bellied, nor should they have flaky skin or runny or crusted eyes or noses. Their stools should be firm and well formed, with no evidence of blood or mucus.

COST OF OWNERSHIP

The purchase price of your puppy is merely the first expense in the typical dog budget. Quality dog food, veterinary care (sickness and health maintenance), dog supplies and grooming costs will add up to big bucks every year. Can you adequately afford to support a canine addition to the family?

Don’t bother with a puppy-sized crate. Although your Puli will be a wee fellow when you bring him home, he will grow up in the blink of an eye and your puppy crate will be useless. Purchase a crate that will accommodate an adult Puli. A full-grown Puli can stand between 15 and 18 inches tall at the shoulder, depending on sex, so purchase a crate that will allow an adult to fully stand, lie down and turn around comfortably.

BEDDING AND CRATE PADS

Your puppy will enjoy some type of soft bedding in his “room” (the crate), something he can snuggle into to feel cozy and secure. Old towels or blankets are good choices for a young pup, since he may (and probably will) have a toileting accident or two in the crate or decide to chew on the bedding material. Once he is fully trained and out of the early chewing stage, you can replace the puppy bedding with a permanent crate pad if you prefer. Crate pads and other dog beds run the gamut from inexpensive to high-end doggie-designer styles, but don’t splurge on the good stuff until you are sure that your puppy is reliable and won’t tear it up or make a mess on it.

This adorable Puli puppy is growing fast and will be adult-sized before you know it. Don’t waste your money on puppy-sized food/water dishes or a puppy-sized crate.

A pup and child that grow up together form a special bond of friendship provided that interactions are supervised and both know how to behave around each other.

PUPPY TOYS

Just as infants and older children require objects to stimulate their minds and bodies, puppies need toys to entertain their curious brains, wiggly paws and achy teeth. A fun array of safe doggie toys will help satisfy your puppy’s chewing instincts and distract him from gnawing on the leg of your antique chair or your new leather sofa. Most puppy toys are cute and look as if they would be a lot of fun, but not all are necessarily safe or good for your puppy, so use caution when you go puppy-toy shopping.

Puli puppies are fairly aggressive chewers. Like many other dogs, they love to chew. The best “chewcifiers” are nylon and hard rubber bones which are safe to gnaw on and come in sizes appropriate for all age groups and breeds. Be especially careful of natural bones, which can splinter or develop dangerous sharp edges; pups can easily swallow or choke on those bone splinters. Veterinarians often tell of surgical nightmares involving bits of splintered bone, because in addition to the danger of choking, the sharp pieces can damage the intestinal tract.

Similarly, rawhide chews, while a favorite of most dogs and puppies, can be equally dangerous. Pieces of rawhide are easily swallowed after they get soft and gummy from chewing, and dogs have been known to choke on pieces of ingested rawhide. Rawhide chews should be offered only when you can supervise the puppy.

Soft woolly toys are special puppy favorites. They come in a wide variety of cute shapes and sizes; some look like little stuffed animals. Puppies love to shake them up and toss them about, or simply carry them around. Be careful of fuzzy toys that have button eyes or noses that your pup could chew off and swallow, and make sure that he does not disembowel a squeaky toy to remove the squeaker! Braided rope toys are similar in that they are fun to chew and toss around, but they shred easily and the strings are easy to swallow. The strings are not digestible and, if the puppy doesn’t pass them in his stool, he could end up at the vet’s office. As with rawhides, your puppy should be closely monitored with rope toys.

THE FIRST FAMILY MEETING

Your puppy’s first day at home should be quiet and uneventful. Despite his wagging tail, he is still wondering where his mom and siblings are! Let him make friends with other members of the family on his own terms; don’t overwhelm him. You have a lifetime ahead to get to know each other!

If you believe that your pup has ingested a piece of one of his toys, check his stools for the next couple of days to see if he passes the item when he defecates. At the same time, also watch for signs of intestinal distress. A call to your veterinarian might be in order to get his advice and be on the safe side.

An all-time favorite toy for puppies (young and old!) is the empty gallon milk jug. Hard plastic juice containers—46 ounces or more—are also excellent. Such containers make lots of noise when they are batted about, and puppies go crazy with delight as they play with them. However, they don’t often last very long, so be sure to remove and replace them when they get chewed up.

A word of caution about homemade toys: be careful with your choices of non-traditional play objects. Never use old shoes or socks, since a puppy cannot distinguish between the old ones on which he’s allowed to chew and the new ones in your closet that are strictly off limits. That principle applies to anything that resembles something that you don’t want your puppy to chew.

TOYS ‘R SAFE

The vast array of tantalizing puppy toys is staggering. Stroll through any pet shop or pet-supply outlet and you will see that the choices can be overwhelming. However, not all dog toys are safe or sensible. Most very young puppies enjoy soft woolly toys that they can snuggle with and carry around. (You know they have outgrown them when they shred them up!) Avoid toys that have buttons, tabs or other enhancements that can be chewed off and swallowed. Soft toys that squeak are fun, but make sure your puppy does not disembowel the toy and remove (and swallow) the squeaker. Toys that rattle or make noise can excite a puppy, but they present the same danger as the squeaky kind and so require supervision. Hard rubber toys that bounce can also entertain a pup, but make sure that the toy is too big for your pup to swallow.

NEW RELEASES

Most breeders release their puppies between eight and ten weeks of age. A breeder who allows puppies to leave the litter at five or six weeks of age is likely more concerned with profit than with the puppies’ welfare. However, some breeders of show or working breeds may hold one or more top-quality puppies longer in order to evaluate the puppies’ career or show potential and decide which one(s) they will keep for themselves.

COLLARS

A lightweight nylon collar is the best choice for a very young pup. Quick-click collars are easy to put on and remove, and they can be adjusted as the puppy (and his coat) grows. Introduce him to his collar as soon as he comes home to get him accustomed to wearing it. He’ll get used to it quickly and won’t mind a bit. Make sure that it is snug enough that it won’t slip off, yet loose enough to be comfortable for the pup. You should be able to slip two fingers between the collar and his neck. Check the collar often, as puppies grow in spurts, and his collar can become too tight almost overnight. Choke collars are for training purposes only but are not suitable for Pulik of any age, as this type of collar will pull and damage the coat.

LEASHES

A 6-foot nylon lead is an excellent choice for a young puppy. It is lightweight and not as tempting to chew as a leather lead. You can switch to a 6-foot leather lead after your pup has grown and is used to walking politely on a lead. For initial puppy walks and house-training purposes, you should invest in a shorter lead so that you have more control over the puppy. At first you don’t want him wandering too far away from you, and when taking him out for toileting you will want to keep him in the specific area chosen for his potty spot.

COLLARING OUR CANINES

The standard flat collar with a buckle or a snap, in leather, nylon or cotton, is widely regarded as the everyday all-purpose collar. If the collar fits correctly, you should be able to fit two fingers between the collar and the dog’s neck.

The martingale, Greyhound or limited-slip collar is preferred by many dog owners and trainers. It is fixed with an extra loop that tightens when pressure is applied to the leash. The martingale collar gets tighter but does not “choke” the dog. The limited-slip collar should only be used for walking and training, not for free play or interaction with another dog. These types of collar should never be left on the dog, as the extra loop can lead to accidents.

Choke collars, usually made of stainless steel, are made for training purposes, though are not recommended for small dogs or heavily coated breeds like the Puli. The chains can injure small dogs or damage long/abundant coats. Thin nylon choke leads are commonly used on show dogs while in the ring, though they are not practical for everyday use.

The harness, with two or three straps that attach over the dog’s shoulders and around his torso, is a humane and safe alternative to the conventional collar. By and large, a well-made harness is virtually escape-proof. Harnesses are available in nylon and mesh and can be outfitted on most dogs, with chest girths ranging from 10 to 30 inches.

A head collar, composed of a nylon strap that goes around the dog’s muzzle and a second strap that wraps around his neck, offers the owner better control over his dog. This device is recommended for problem-solving with dogs (including jumping up, pulling and aggressive behaviors), but must be used with care.

A training halter, including a flat collar and two straps, made of nylon and webbing, is designed for walking. There are several on the market; some are more difficult to put on the dog than others. The halter harness, with two small slip rings at each end, is recommended for ease of use.