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Big Hole River

Lewis and Clark referred to it as the “Wisdom,” but the name “Big Hole,” coined by early trappers and settlers in reference to the high elevation valley through which the river flows, stuck, and that is how we have come to know one of the most beautiful trout streams in the state of Montana. The Big Hole flows freely without dams for 115 miles to its confluence with the Beaverhead, and eventually the Ruby, to form the Jefferson around mile 153. The Big Hole begins its serpentine course across western Montana high in the Beaverhead Mountains at Skinner Lake. The upper section of the Big Hole is easily wadeable with several access points at county road crossings and federal and state maintained fishing access sites. From Jackson to the town of Wisdom, the river braids and turns through rich pasture land, and thick willow banks. Downstream from Wisdom, the river opens generously, inviting both the wading angler as well as float fisherman. The upper section of the Big Hole hosts cutthroat, rainbow, brook trout and most notably, is home to the last remaining native population of fluvial (river dwelling) Arctic grayling in the lower 48.

Throughout its course, the Big Hole is steadily enhanced from feeder streams and at the junction of Wise River matures into a large trout river. Drift boat fishing is possible through early summer, though rafts are suggested by mid to late summer. Arguably, the best fishing on the Big Hole is found from Wise River to Glen. However, no one will dispute that this section also receives the most attention from anglers. Downstream from Wise River the Big Hole bounds over boulders and thunders through tight canyon walls from Dewey to Maiden Rock and it gradually opens again into broad pasture land around Melrose. This middle section is primarily a brown trout fishery with smaller numbers of rainbows. Access is plentiful via Highway 43 to Divide, and from the frontage road off I-15 between Divide and Glen. Below Divide the river is best fished from a drift boat or raft due to its difficult wading, shallow boulders, and isolated corridor through private land.

The final section of the Big Hole, from Glen to the confluence of the Beaverhead, parts ways with Interstate 15 and journeys off the beaten path. The river opens and slows as it makes its final northeast turn. This section is also best fished from a boat or raft as access is limited to Glen, Notch Bottom, Pennington Bridge, and High Road, all along Burma Road on the route to Twin Bridges. Although the fish count drops, the float down to Pennington Bridge is another guide favorite due to the trophy browns awaiting the patient angler, especially those fishing large nymphs and streamers. While the neighboring Beaverhead River is famous for its trophy trout, local guides often claim that year after year they take their largest fish of the summer out of the Big Hole.

Even though the Big Hole flows through sparsely-populated ranch land, it is one of the heavier fished rivers in the state, and has recently received experimental regulations governing outfitters and out-of-state anglers. The regulations are at best controversial and have many an outfitter up in arms. The regulations restrict non-resident and commercial use float fishing to six days a week, with one stretch of river out of seven closed each day. Wade fishing is still allowed on these days. To ensure you follow the rules, contact http://fwp.state.mt.us/fishing/regulations or call (406) 994-4042.

The upper Big Hole is home to the last remaining native population of fluvial Arctic grayling in the lower 48. Photo by Brian Grossenbacher.

Types of Fish:

Rainbow, Brown, Brook and Cutthroat Trout, Arctic Grayling, Whitefish.

Known Hatches:

Late March-Mid April: Skwala Stones.

Late April-Early May: Caddis.

Mid May-July: Golden Stones.

Mid June-Mid July: Salmonflies.

June-July: Green & Brown Drakes.

July: Yellow Sallies.

July-Early August: Pale Morning Duns (PMDs).

August-September: Tricos, Spruce Moths.

Equipment to Use:

Rods: 5-6 weight, 9 feet in length.

Lines: Floating line, sink tip for streamer fishing deep.

Leaders: 7½' 2-3x for nymphing, 9' 4-6x for dries, 7½' 0-2x fluorocarbon for streamers.

Wading: Waist-high waders are fine most of the year.

Flies to Use:

Dries: Royal Wulff #12-16, PMX #8-12, Parachute Adams #10-18, Stimulator #10-16, Ants #18-20, Elk Hair Caddis #14-18.

Nymphs: Bullethead Skwala #8-10, Olive Stonefly #8-10, Poxyback Stone Nymph #6-10, Brown Rubber Legs #6-10, Kaufmann's Gold Stone #6-10, Bitch Creek #4-6, Rogue Stones #4-8, Rubber Legs #4-6, Kaufmann's Stone #4-6, Hare's Ear Nymph #10-18, Pheasant Tail Nymph #10-16, Trico nymph #18-22, Copper John #10-16, Beadhead or plain Prince Nymph #12-16, Lightning Bug #12-18, San Juan Worm.

Streamers: Olive Bugger #2-6, Leech #2-8, JJ Special #2-6, Muddler & Clouser Minnow #2-6.

When to Fish:

The Big Hole River is famous for its Salmonfly hatch which frequently is at its height between mid June and early July. Although some people are concerned with the low water conditions that can be found in late summer, big fish can be caught on tricos and spruce moths in August. Due to the surrounding hay fields, count on great hopper fishing in late July and early August. Add good streamer fishing in early and late season and you can stretch out the season as far as you'd like.

Seasons & Limits:

Standard fishing regulations for the Central fishing district apply. Please check the Montana Fishing Regulations and Etiquette section. The Big Hole River has multiple exceptions and restrictions so check below carefully or check in with FWP.

Exceptions to Standard RegulationsEntire River and Tributaries

Catch-and-release for grayling and cutthroat trout. All float users are limited to a total of 2 launches at or near each official access site each day. See Big Hole River map for official access sites. Extended season for whitefish and catch-and-release for trout open December 1 to the third Saturday in May with artificial lures and/or maggots only.

Headwaters to Mudd Creek FAS

Closed to float outfitting from the third Saturday in May through Labor Day.

Mudd Creek FAS to Fishtrap FAS

Closed to float outfitting on each Tuesday from the third Saturday in May through Labor Day.

Fishtrap FAS to East Bank BLM FAS

Closed to float outfitting on each Thursday from the third Saturday in May through Labor Day.

East Bank BLM FAS to Jerry Creek FAS

Closed to float outfitting on each Wednesday from the third Saturday in May through Labor Day.

Tributaries Upstream from Divide Dam

Brook trout: open entire year.

Dickie Bridge to Divide Bridge (Divide FAS)

Artificial lures only.

Jerry Creek FAS to Divide FAS

Closed to float fishing by nonresidents and float outfitting on each Saturday from the third Saturday in May through Labor Day.

Divide Bridge (Divide FAS) to Melrose Bridges (Salmon Fly FAS)

Combined Trout: 4 daily and in possession, includes 3 under 13 inches and 1 over 22 inches.

Artificial lures only.

Closed to float fishing by nonresidents and float outfitting on each Sunday from the third Saturday in May through Labor Day.

Melrose Bridges (Salmon Fly FAS) to Glen FAS (Bridges)

Closed to float outfitting on each Monday from the third Saturday in May through Labor Day.

Glen FAS (Bridges) to Notch Bottom FAS

Closed to float outfitting on each Friday from the third Saturday in May through Labor Day.

Nearby Fly Fishing:

Beaverhead, Ruby, Pointdexter Slough, Clark Canyon Reservoir.

Accommodations & Services:

There are campsites at Forest Service campgrounds, including Twin Lakes, Van Houten, Bannack State Park, East Bank, and Dickie Bridge. As for lodging, be ready to drive a little in one direction or the other. The Nez Perce Hotel (406-689-3254) in Wisdom is the only thing around in the upper stretches while the Sportsman's (406-835-2141) gets the job done if you are closer to Melrose. Dillon offers a vast array of lodges and rental cabins including Tom Smith's Backcountry Angler (406-683-3402: www.backcountryangler.com) which also offers a flyshop. Another excellent option in Wise River is Craig Fellin Outfitters and Big Hole Lodge (406-832-3252: www.flyfishinglodge.com).

Rating: 9

The beauty of the Big Hole and the majesty of the surrounding mountains is worth its weight in gold. Add in great fishing, proximity to an assortment of other blue ribbon trout streams plus a historical trip to the Big Hole Battlefield, and you have a home run of a river. A strong 9, with the limiting factor being the dewatering of the river for agricultural purposes in late summer.

The Big Hole flows through some of the most spectacular scenery Montana has to offer. Photo by Brian Grossenbacher.

Another nice Big Hole brown. Photo by Brian Grossenbacher.