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ОглавлениеGETTING TO CABO DE HIGUER FROM IRÜN
Faro de Cabo Higuer
The simplest solution is to take a taxi from Irún to Cabo de Higuer. In summer there are buses (route E25) about every 15min from Paseo Colón, in the centre of Irún, to Playa de Hondarribia. It would take about 1hr 50min to walk to Cabo de Higuer from Irún or 2hr 15min from Hendaye Railway Station in France.
You need to continue past the Playa de Hondarribia, the main beach of Hondarribia, to reach the harbour at the N end of the sea-front. Follow the road which climbs steeply from the N end of the harbour switchbacking up to a junction. Turn right to reach the S side of the lighthouse, Faro de Cabo Higuer, and Camping Faro de Higuer (40m, N43°23.479 W001°47.546).
Camping Faro de Higuer has a bar-restaurant. Open all year. Tel 943 641 008 www.campingfarodehiguer.es
See Stage 1 for facilities in Hondarribia and Irún.
STAGE 1
Cabo de Higuer to Bera (Vera de Bidosoa)
| Start | Cabo de Higuer |
| Distance | 30km |
| Total Ascent/Descent | 800m |
| Difficulty | Easy. Waymarking does not begin until the S edge of Irún, after which it is very good. |
| Time | 8hr 30min |
| High Points | Collado de Erlaitz (448m), Collado de Tellería (415m) |
Stage 1 is too long for a first day unless you are already ‘trail fit’. If you are camping it is sensible to take three days to get to Elizondo at the end of Stage 2. If you are staying in Irún you could walk the section from Cabo de Higuer to Irún on the evening of your arrival and then set out from Irún in the morning. Once clear of Irún, the route is typical of the Basque Country as you traverse steep rolling hills on good tracks through a mixture of woodland and pasture.
There doesn’t seem to be an official starting point for the GR11 but the Faro de Higuer lighthouse is the prominent feature on the cape. You could of course climb down the rocks to dip your toes in the Atlantic Ocean.
Follow the tarmac track, signed ‘GR121 to Hondarribia’, down between the lighthouse and the campground, soon forking left along a path which loops round the lighthouse and follows the slumping undercliff. On reaching the road, turn left down to the harbour and follow the coast road past the sandy Playa de Hondarribia (25min) where there are water-points, toilets and beach showers. There are water-points at regular intervals along the seafront. Continue past the large marina and along the shore until the road turns inland alongside a canal opposite the airport (1hr).
Hondarribia is a large tourist resort with all facilities. Camping Jaizkibel, 500m W of the centre of Hondarribia, also has cabins and bar-restaurant. Albergue Juan Sebastián Elcano is at the N end of Hondarribia, inland from the marina. You must show the youth hostelling international card in this youth hostel.
After the road veers right, go straight (W) across a double roundabout, fork left at the next small roundabout, past the Eroski supermarket, left at a big roundabout and immediately right down the Santa Engrazia Kalea. This road returns to the main road by the Puente de Amute (1hr 30min). After crossing the bridge, fork left along road GI-636 before veering left into Irún, under a road bridge, straight across a large roundabout and up the Calle de Fuenterribía. Fork left up Hondarribia Kalea and over the railway into the wide boulevard of the Paseo de Colón to reach a big square (1hr 50min).
Irún is a large town with an international railway station. All types of camping gas are available at Decathlon in Parque Comercial Txingudi which is in Ventas at the SW end of Irún near junction 2 of the A-8 autopista. There are buses to Txingudi from Hondarribia and Irún every hour.
Keep straight on as the road becomes the Avenida de Navarra after a large multi-way junction and heads downhill. Head down the right-hand side of this dual carriageway and cross a stream. Turn right along the second road after the stream, turning left and immediately right at the end. Cross a roundabout and then, at the next roundabout, go diagonally left, signed to San Martzial Ermita. Just before you reach a stream turn right along a path. This veers left to the road. Turn right under the A-8 (Autopista del Cantábrico), after which there is a GR11 information board by a concrete track on your left (2hr 15min, 20m, N43°20.009 W001°46.634). The GR11 is well waymarked from here.
Aldabe Farm, above Irún
Turn left up the concrete track, ignoring two left forks, then continue up a rough track. Join another concrete track at Aldabe Farm, with water-point, cross a road and continue up a tarmac track which becomes gravel after another house. Cross the road again and reach a large picnic area with water and toilets (2hr 50min, 205m, N43°19.869 W001°45.920). The building on your right is the Ermita San Martzial, which has a bar-restaurant.
Irún, on the border of the kingdoms of Navarre, Castile and France, belonged to Navarre, but became part of Castile in 1200. In 1522 Navarre raised an army, assisted by German and French mercenaries, to recapture Irún and they defeated a Castilian army at the battle of Monte San Martzial on 30 June 1522. Success was honoured by the building of a chapel on the shoulder of the hill.
In 1813 Wellington was besieging the French garrison at San Sebastián when he had news of a relief force under General Soult. Wellington broke off the siege and marched his British and Spanish army to meet the French. On 31 August 1813 the Napoleonic troops were defeated in the second battle on Monte San Martzial and the chapel became an important shrine for the people of Irún.
Continue ESE along a concrete track, turning right 50m after a children’s play area/picnic area. Don’t get confused by the R-11 sign – this is a local footpath and nothing to do with the GR11. Keep straight on when the concrete track goes right and follow a track along the crest of the ridge, descending to a farm on a saddle. Keep straight on, ignoring a track to the right, and climb. You pass a small water catchment dam but the water is of dubious quality. Fork right after a cattle grid along a track which becomes concrete after passing a farm. Turn left up a rough track, under power lines, at the top of the hill. This track soon becomes a grassy path to reach a white cabin. Veer to the right of the cabin to reach a waterless picnic site beside the GI-3454 road. Continue just left of the road to a car park on the Collado de Erlaitz (4hr 5min, 448m, N43°18.314 W001°45.380) with Erlaitz (495m) on the right and Pagogaña (482m) on the left. Dry camping. It would be very easy to walk up Pagogaña from here.
Follow a grassy track parallel to and just left of the road, passing through another waterless picnic site. Continue until you reach a track going off diagonally left (438m) just after large parking areas on either side of the road. The GR11 forks left (S) down the track. Gradually descend, forking left and veering sharp right at a junction. The rocky peak ahead is Risco de San Antón (596m). The good track switchbacks down, reaching a clear-looking woodland stream at the final switchback. Continue down the track until you cross a cattle grid and come out at a small road. Turn right, uphill, to reach the W end of the Embalse de San Antón (Endara) dam (5hr 40min, 240m, N43°16.624 W001°46.494). Turn left across the dam and continue along the road to pass the Ermita de St. Antón, on your right (5hr 50min). This chapel has a water-point and a covered seating area.
Turn left up a concrete track signed to the Bar-restaurante Ola-Berri, just after the chapel. Before you reach the bar, the GR11 turns right over a stile and up a path across pasture, then forks left as you enter the wood and climbs steeply to reach a concrete track at the Collado de Tellería (Collado de San Antón) (6hr 20min, 415m, N43°16.446 W001°45.513). You may prefer to stay on the concrete track left of the Bar-restaurante Ola-Berri, then switchback right and follow the track to the Collado de Tellería.
Continue E along the concrete track, descending past a farm and climbing again. Keep straight on at crossroads and fork right at some houses. Fork right up a track then left along the main track and left again. Turn left and right at a woodland stream and then join a concrete track at a farm with a water-point in the farmyard. Fork right and then left along a path which joins a track. Soon fork right as the track becomes a path. Cross a concrete track at Alasta (357m) and follow the track along the crest of the ridge. Dry camping. Fork left after a white building at Amargunko Lepoa and contour to the next saddle, Amargaga Lepoa (7hr 30min, 304m). Take the middle track, then fork left, then right, then left again to start the descent to Bera. Follow the main track down to reach a minor road on the outskirts of Bera. Keep straight on at a crossroads before veering right to an old narrow bridge across the Rio Bidasoa.
Memorial plaque on bridge at Bera
There is a memorial plaque on the bridge to the men of the Rifle Brigade who died on 1 September 1813 defending the bridge against the French. During their retreat following defeat at the Battle of San Martzial, the French army reached San Miguel Bridge over the Rio Bidasoa at Bera. The river was in flood following a severe thunderstorm and the bridge was the only crossing point. The bridge was defended by a 70-man company of green-jacketed riflemen (well known to readers of the Sharpe novels by Bernard Cornwell or viewers of the TV films starring Sean Bean) under Captain Daniel Cadoux. This small company held the bridge against about 10,000 French troops for about 18 hours. Unfortunately, they were let down by Major General Skerret who refused to send help, despite being camped only a mile away with his Light Brigade. When the Rifle Brigade eventually retreated they suffered heavy casualties and the French were allowed to escape from the trap.
Cross the bridge and follow the road into town, turning left along the main road to the town centre. Turn right at the Bar-restaurante Euskalduna and continue to the square, now a big car park, just after the tourist office (8hr 30min, 40m, N43°16.844 W001°40.928).
Bera is a small town with a tourist office (public toilets inside), a selection of accommodation and an excellent supermarket. Ferreteria Monola stocks ‘original’ and ‘easy-clic’ camping gas.
Facilities on Stage 1 (in route order)
Camping Jaizkibel: tel 943 641 679 www.campingjaizkibel.com
Albergue Juan Sebastián Elcano: tel 943 415 164 www.gipuzkoangazte.eus
Irún Tourist Office: tel 943 020 732 www.irun.org/turismo
Bera Tourist Office: tel 948 631 222
Hostal Zalain: tel 948 630 967 https://zalain.info
Hotel Churrut: tel 948 625 540 www.hotelchurrut.com
Casa Rural Romano: tel 948 631 137
STAGE 2
Bera to Elizondo
| Start | Bera |
| Distance | 31km |
| Total Ascent | 1300m |
| Total Descent | 1200m |
| Difficulty | Easy. Waymarking is good. |
| Time | 8hr |
| High Point | Santa Bárbara (396m), Collado Achuela (795m) |
Today’s walking is primarily on tracks through woodland and pasture, over steep rolling hills. This is a long day so early in a hike, but there is no obvious way to shorten it for those who are not camping.
Head S from the GR11 information board along the right-hand side of the square and up a concrete track which passes to the right of a tennis court and public swimming pool before joining a tarmac road. Continue to a junction on a bend with a probably dry water-point. Fork right up a track, then left and left again past a house and onto a concrete track, before forking right up a track. Rejoin the track and follow it to the final house. Take the left-hand track, still climbing, then go sharp left at a track junction onto open hillside. Fork right up the ridge to the summit of Santa Bárbara (1hr 5min, 396m, N43°15.955 W001°40.310). On the summit you will find a concrete bunker and a collection of monuments and memorials. The high mountain to the N is La Rhune (900m) in France.
In 1939 Franco ordered the Pyrenean border to be fortified and militarised. The plan was to build more than 10,000 bunkers from one end of the Pyrenees to another. Initially, the reason for the fortifications was to prevent the return of the Republicans, but plans were modified to thwart a possible German invasion and finally to prevent intervention by the Allies or the Maquis (French resistance movement). Construction continued until 1952, long after there was any justification for the defences. You will see the remains of this defence line at intervals along the GR11.
Veer left along the edge of the wood, descending to a saddle and straight on up the other side. At the end of the wood descend through fields, picking up a concrete track to the right of a white house to reach the Collado de Idoia (1hr 30min, 269m).
Turn diagonally right along a dirt road, forking left uphill. Higher up, fork right along a track, turn left at a junction by a barn, Dornakuko Borda, and fork right when you return to the dirt road by another barn. The road veers right as you reach the woods. Contour along the SW slopes of Ibantelli (697m) and cross a woodland stream. It would be wise to treat the water before drinking. Continue to the Venta de Lizaieta at Collado de Lizarrieta (2hr 25min, 441m, N43°15.661 W001°37.157). This bar-restaurant was closed in 2017.
Cross the road and continue up a large track. After about 10min, at a saddle, a track joins from back right. The GR11 takes the path forking right and switchbacks down past Usategi bar-restaurant (normally closed)before forking left and climbing past a barn with possibly dry water-point. Fork left to cross a ridge and then descend a little on the other side. The path then contours and passes another barn before reaching a junction just below the Col de Narbarlatz (3hr 10min, 445m, N43°15.170 W001°36.027). Fork right and follow the track downhill. Fork right and descend to a woodland stream. Cross and veer right. Pass below the Casería Gorra Farm, turning left up a concrete track through the farmyard (3hr 15min, 370m). The water-point in the farmyard seems to be well protected by loose dogs! Continue up the track, turning sharp right at a junction with a dirt road and veering left to a picnic area with a water-point (3hr 40min, 440m). Discrete camping should be possible here.
Fork left at the picnic area. The track veers right, after which you ignore right turns and continue straight to the top of the hill, then stay on the main track past a barn and veer left round Bagalta (628m). Then fork left on a grassy path to rejoin the main track. Pass a barn at the Collado de Irazako (530m) then reach a power-line where there is an ancient tumulus. Stay on the main track, ignoring turns, to reach a complex road junction at the Collado de Ursumia (4hr 35min, 535m). Turn right (S) along a track, following the main track at a junction, then fork right at a col to start the descent. Fork left three times during the descent, then right along a path which contours through woods before joining a track just before reaching the road at Collado de Esquisaroy (5hr 15min, 518m, N43°13.010 W001°33.080). There is a sign down the road on the right to Casa Rural Landa Etxea, but the author has no information on this possible accommodation.
Urrizpil and Umboto from W slope of La Ronda
Cross the road and take the path forking right. Fork right at a junction (5hr 50min, 725m) and fork right and left as you continue to climb to a track joining from the left. Traverse right (W) of Atxuela (825m) to Collado Achuela (795m) with a small iron cross. The track contours W of La Ronda (854m) to reach the Collado de Iñaberri (6hr 20min, 795m, N43°11.522 W001°32.141). Excellent dry campsites.
Fork left, roughly S, ignoring a myriad of paths, then veer left into the woods and turn left down a good track and immediately right along a path which leads to Caserío de Maistruzar (6hr 30min). Immediately after the farmhouse is a spring, Fuente de Maistruzar. The path joins a track, and then forks right to reach a road at Plano de Bagordi (6hr 55min, 580m) where there is a picnic area with a water-point. Turn left along the road and after about 1km fork left down a path, the first of several ‘shortcuts’ (though it may be as easy to follow the road). Turn left on regaining the road. The next shortcut, also on the left, passes below a clay-pigeon shooting range. Stay on the road if you hear shooting. Go straight across when you next meet the road, then right along the road before taking a path to the left. Follow the track across the road when you next meet it (360m). You need to take this track as it does not return to this road but brings you down to another minor road. Turn left and follow the road down to the Elizondo bypass, which will not be shown on older maps. Cross carefully and keep straight on into Elizondo, turning left along the main street to a large church on the right (8hr, 200m). There is a water-point in the churchyard.
Detail on the church at Elizondo
Elizondo is a small town with a seasonal tourist office and a range of accommodation. As well as smaller shops there is a large supermarket just NE of the church. Ferreteria Quevedo has ‘original’, ‘easy-clic’ and ‘Coleman-style’ camping gas.
Facilities on Stage 2
Elizondo Tourist Office: tel 948 581 517
Hotel Elizondo: tel 948 580 872 www.hostalelizondo.com
Hotel Baztan: tel 948 580 050 www.hotelbaztan.com
Hostal Antxitonea: tel 948 581 807 www.antxitonea.com
Hostal Posada Elbete: tel 948 581 519 www.posadaelbete.com
Albergue Kortarixar: tel 626 532 452 www.kortarixar.es
English-speaking Mark Woldin offers bed and breakfast at his home as well as rides from the trail. Tel 660 976 422 markwoldin@gmail.com
STAGE 3
Elizondo to Puerto de Urkiago
| Start | Elizondo |
| Distance | 19km |
| Total Ascent | 1100m |
| Total Descent | 400m |
| Difficulty | Easy. The waymarking is good but you will have to take care with navigation in mist as the route is complex and undefined in places. It will be muddy and slippery in wet conditions. |
| Time | 5hr 40min (8hr to Albergue Sorogain in Stage 4) |
| High Point | Collado Bustalmorro (1170m) |
The traditional end of Stage 3 is at the Puerto de Urkiaga, but this road pass is without accommodation, good campsites or water! The main option for those requiring accommodation would be to continue to Albergue Sorogain, which is just over 2 hours ahead (see Stage 4). An alternative would be to use Hostal Arrobi Borda whose owners offer transport to and from the Puerto de Urkiaga.
The walking is primarily through woodland and pasture on paths and tracks over steep rolling hills. The route reaches 1000m for the first time. There are no obviously good campsites until you reach the Collado de Urballo.
Head up Avenida Monsenor Berecochea, immediately right (W) of the church. A left and right turn lead you out of town to reach a GR11 information board (216m, N43°08.542 W001°30.848). Fork right up a track, soon forking right and left before rejoining the road. Follow the road for about 100m then turn right along a path which veers left. Turn left at a track and immediately right. Turn right when the track continues through a gate, then fork left up a path, passing right of a farm. Join a track and turn right along a path (45min, 361m) as you come close to the road.
Continue climbing, cross a concrete track (1hr) and pass a spring (435m). When the track switchbacks right, veer left along a path and pass more springs. Higher up cross a stream and keep straight on, steadily climbing until you reach a track (1hr 40min, 470m, N43°06.373 W001°29.730). Turn right, then fork left at a switchback on a major track. Keep straight on along a grass track when the major track bends left, soon passing a water-point (20m left of the track) with good campsites. The track narrows to a path and climbs gradually to arrive at a hunter’s cabin (2hr 40min, 888m, N43°05.664 W001°29.000) just below the Collado de Urballo. The hunters’ cabin has a water-point and picnic tables. Continue up to the col. Camping is possible at the col. In good visibility you could easily climb Peña de Alba-Lohilu (1074m) to the SE.
Hunters’ cabin at Collado de Urballo
Keep straight on up the earthen track, soon forking right up a path. The paths are a bit nebulous with many sheep tracks, so follow the waymarks carefully as you contour the grassy N flank of Peña de Alba-Lohilu and reach the border fence at Border Stone 127.
In 1659 the Treaty of the Pyrenees was signed on an island in the Rio Bidasoa to end the 1635–1659 war between France and Spain, and a new border was fixed at the Pyrenees. However, the border was not properly settled until the Treaty of Limits in 1856. Border Stone 127 is one of about 600 numbered stones that were positioned in the 1860s to designate the border.
Pass ancient tumuli as you follow the fence along the ridge. Eventually, after a couple of shooting towers, leave the border fence as it veers off left. Soon reach another fence, which also veers off left before you reach an earthen track. Fork right at a gate to reach a hunting cabin with a water-point and benches at Collado Zaldegi (3hr 55min, 947m, N43°03.932 W001°28.536). Camping is possible here, with better dry campsites on the ridge ahead.
Veer right up the track, and right again to the right of two more hunters’ cabins to pick up a path heading NW, before swinging SW. Pay careful attention to the waymarks in this area as there are many sheep tracks, which are often more significant than the GR11. Climb out of the woods and steeply up to a col below Argintzo (1208m). Cross the fence at a stile (4hr 30min, 1139m, N43°03.613 W001°29.089) and veer right, to the left of the fence. Follow waymarks along faint animal tracks round the SE flank of Argintzo to rejoin the ridge and fence, at a saddle (4hr 45min, 1158m).
The GR11 now contours on the eastern slopes below Collado Bustalmorro and Arsal, but in good weather you may prefer to follow the ridge over Arsal (1233m) before reaching broad, grassy Collado de Zagua with signpost (5hr 10 min, 1163m, N43°02.464 W001°29.596).
Sheep shearing below Collado de Zagua
The GR12 continues along the ridge, but turn left on the GR11, veering right of a white cabin. Take care to follow the waymarks to locate the path through the woods. Pass a cabin where you pick up a track which is followed, ignoring all side-turns, to the N-138 road at Puerto de Urkiago (5hr 40min, 912m, N43°02.158 W001°28.209).
This minor road connects Aldudes in France to Zubiri in Spain. There is little traffic on this cross-border road so it could be difficult to hitch the 20km down (S) to Zubiri, on the Camino de Santiago, where there is accommodation. While it would be possible to camp here, there aren’t any good sites. In an emergency you could use one of the old wartime concrete bunkers on the route ahead.
Hostal Arrobi Borda, which is just up the NA-1740, about 6km down the NA-138, has accommodation and a bar-restaurant, and offers free lifts to and from the GR11 from the Puerto de Urkiago for those staying at the hostal.
Facilities on Stage 3
Hostal Arrobi Borda: tel 948 304 709 www.arrobiborda.com
Hosteria de Zubiri: tel 948 304 329 www.hosteriadezubiri.com
STAGE 4
Puerto de Urkiaga to Burguete (Auritz)
