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Potato soup with black pudding, grain mustard Chantilly and chives

This soup is about as basic as it gets because the liquid used is simply the water in which the spuds are boiled – no need for highfalutin stocks here. The addition of black pudding is, of course, optional, but it works really well. In fact, other poaching sausages are delicious with this, such as chorizo, Toulouse and especially Strasbourg (frankfurters to you and me). The next time you are making mashed potatoes and forget about the spuds to the point that they have disintegrated beyond hope, make this soup instead.

Serves 6

4–5 large red floury potatoes, such as Désirée or Romano, peeled and chopped evenly into 4cm dice (it is important not to use waxy, new-style potatoes, such as Charlotte, for this)

1 clove of garlic, peeled and minced

salt and freshly ground black pepper

… and, with water, that’s basically it for the soup part

200ml double cream, plus extra for the soup if you like

grain mustard, to taste

15cm length of black pudding (I like the Stornaway sausage from the Isle of Lewis) – about 300g should do it

vegetable oil

1 bunch of fresh chives, chopped

Put the potatoes in a pan in which they fit snugly but comfortably, add the garlic and cover with water. Season really well and bring to a gentle simmer. When the potatoes have cooked (or more accurately overcooked) to the point of disintegration, either pass through a fine mesh mouli/sieve, or blend with the cooking water in a liquidiser (or with a hand-held blender). Avoid over-blending or the overworked starch from the potato may render the soup gluey. Return to the pan and reheat, add a little cream if liked and check the seasoning.

To make the Chantilly, lightly whip the cream, adding grain mustard to taste. A perfect Chantilly should just hold its shape but retain a certain floppiness – avoid overwhipping or it will end up heavy and buttery. Add a little salt. Slice the black pudding and sauté in a thin film of vegetable oil in a non-stick pan. Drain on absorbent kitchen paper and keep warm.

Serve the soup in warmed, wide, shallow soup plates so that the slices of black pudding do not sink without trace when placed gently on top. Spoon the mustard Chantilly cream over and scatter generously with the chives. Crusty baguette or sourdough is nice with this.