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Asparagus and ham hock salad with sauce gribiche

It is no exaggeration to say that, in the kitchen at work, during the short six-week or so asparagus season around the month of May we gorge on the stuff. There is no other ingredient that signals so abruptly and pleasingly the passing from one season to another. It is brilliant all on its own, up front as a star striker, or equally happy combined with any number of more workmanlike players in a culinary midfield. A couple of likely and fitting teammates are ham and eggs, as enjoyed in this perky little recipe. I make no apology for including two asparagus recipes in this book and feel that it is one of those lovely ingredients that should be sprinkled liberally over the best spring menus.

Serves 4 as a starter

1 hock or knuckle of ham (or 2, if you would like to make some ham sandwiches the next day), rinsed

1 leek, washed and chopped

1 onion, peeled and chopped

1 large carrot, peeled and chopped

2 sticks of celery, chopped

3 bay leaves

½ bunch of fresh thyme

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

12 spears of asparagus, woody ends cut off, lightly peeled

good-quality olive oil

1 lemon

Sauce Gribiche

Place the ham hock alone in a pan in which all the ingredients (minus the asparagus, which I hope is obvious) will fit comfortably. Cover with cold water and bring to a simmer. Skim and taste the water – if it is too salty, throw out the water and start again. If it is fine, add the chopped vegetables, the bay leaves and thyme. Bring back to a simmer and poach very gently until the meat has softened and is almost falling from the bone – a couple of hours or so. This can be cooked the day before, if liked. Allow the ham to cool in its liquor.

While the hock is still warm, pull the meat from the bone in pieces that respect the naturally elongated nature of the meat. Look out for the nasty needle of cartilage and chuck this out together with the other osseous matter. Do not discard the softened, gelatinous skin, but reserve separately. Also reserve the liquor. Keep the whole lot warm or, if preparing the day before, gently reheat the meat and skin on a plate in a low oven for 5–10 minutes before finishing the dish. If the skin is particularly fatty, scrape off most of the fat with a spoon. Slice the skin into long thin strips rather like a skinny pencil. I admit that the skin is not everybody’s cup of tea – I love it – so if it doesn’t appeal, by all means leave it out.

When you are ready to serve the salad, have a large pan of well-salted water at a rolling boil. Throw in the asparagus and cook until the thick part of the shaft is pierced easily by the tip of a sharp knife. This will not take long at all if the water is seething furiously enough, about 3 minutes. (Few things are as depressing in the kitchen as overcooked asparagus.) Lift out the asparagus with a slotted spoon and drain on a cloth.

Working quickly, combine the warm asparagus with a little of the warmed ham liquor (2 dessertspoons only should do the trick), a slug of olive oil and a few drops of lemon juice. Season with sea salt and pepper. Divide the asparagus spears evenly and in the same direction on plates. Spoon a little of the liquor and olive oil over. Arrange the ham pieces on top, together with a couple of strips of the skin, if using. A generous dollop of sauce gribiche to one side completes the picture. Serve immediately.