Читать книгу Victorinox Swiss Army Knife Camping & Outdoor Survival Guide - Bryan Lynch - Страница 45

Sharpening stones come in different types and grit levels. Some require lubricants, such as oil or water. Oil tends to be messy and a headache to clean up, so I stick with water or dry stones. Research what the stone needs in order to use it properly, and preserve it for as long as possible. It’s important that you do not use too much downward pressure when sharpening an edge. The weight of the knife is all the downward pressure you really need, because you want the stone to do the work.

If the edge is in rough shape, with nicks in the metal, it will need to be ground down. To accomplish this, draw the knife across a metal file as though you are cutting into it. A coarse stone can be used for this step, but I prefer a metal file. With the reamer tool (extended in the photo below), I was able to restore the edge by drawing it across a coarse stone (less than 1,000 grit), then a medium stone (1,000–3,000 grit), several times.

The dullness of the knife will determine which stone to start with. For example, if the knife is brand-new and has only been subjected to light-duty tasks, you will not need to use it on the coarsest stone. Instead, a fine-grit stone (4,000–8,000 grit) should bring the edge back rather quickly. With a little experience, it will become easy to tell which stone to start with.

This reamer tool has nicks all along the blade. This happened because I used the reamer to puncture holes in a metal can for a project. I should have made a straight punch in and out of the metal, but instead I turned the reamer when puncturing.

1. Make sure that the stone is well lubricated. Some stones need to be soaked in water beforehand for a predetermined amount of time, so read up on the kind of stone you are using. The three-sided stone sharpener I initially use came with a small bottle of oil; however, the instructions did say that water could be used. I have used water on it for a long time, and it works just fine. When it comes to the angle of the blade, place the blade flat on the stone, then tilt the spine of the blade slightly upward as if you are trying to slice a thin layer off the top of the stone. Victorinox recommends using a 20° angle when sharpening. I use two fingers on the blade to keep even pressure and help keep the angle constant.

2. Once you have your angle set, work the blade back and forth in a circular motion a few times (or you can use a single-stroke cutting method instead). Flip the blade over and repeat. Avoid overworking one side more than the other, as this will make the edge uneven and therefore not as sharp. Before moving on to the next stone, draw the knife across the stone in the single-stroke cutting method as if you are slicing the top layer of the stone off. Do this several times on each side. Remember to keep adding lubrication throughout the process. You can never have too much. Move from the fine-grit stone (4,000–8,000 grit) to fine-grit sandpaper (1,000 grit). This helps to eliminate any metal burrs and to further smooth the surface of the blade. Use the same motions on the sandpaper as used on the stones.

3. Rub some buffing compound (optional) on the leather strop until a layer of the compound can be seen. (The buffing compound is optional, but it really polishes the blade.) Strop the knife away from the blade’s edge side several times. Wipe the blade, and you should now have a clean, polished, and—most importantly—sharp edge.