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CROQUET has been for several years one of the most popular pastimes in England, and is now very justly receiving a large and rapidly increasing share of attention in this country. It is unmistakably a game of science, in which the brain, as well as the muscles and nerves, has an essential part to perform,—thus very closely resembling billiards, to which game it is in some respects superior, in that it is a more social game, and gives an opportunity for healthful open air exercise.

Unlike most of out-of-door sports, it does not require the possession of great strength or powers of endurance, or severe muscular exertion on the part of the player. Excellence in it is almost equally attainable to the weakly and delicate as to the healthy and robust. Old and young meet on its arena on more nearly equal terms than in any other known game of skill. A “correct eye,” steady hands and nerves, and good judgment, are the essential qualifications for a good player, and the possession of these advantages of course is not dependent upon the age, sex, or condition of the person.

And it may perhaps be considered as the chief excellence of this game that it gives this opportunity, which very few other games, combining scientific play and physical exercise, afford, for persons of the opposite sexes and disparity of age to join in one common amusement. It should be a matter of congratulation to all to see the rapidly increasing popularity of any healthful open air sport in this country.

We predict for Croquet a success wider in this than it has reached in any other country. When we work or fight, we work and fight harder than any other people, and we should be as enthusiastic in our play.

In preparing this chapter on Croquet we have endeavored to explain the general principles of the game, and to present a code of rules, simple, concise, and shorn as far as possible of technicalities of expression, but comprehensive enough to include all points necessary to a thorough understanding of the game.

In Rules of the Game, explanatory remarks are enclosed in brackets.

MATERIALS OF THE GAME.

A complete set of Croquet consists of eight balls, eight mallets, ten iron bridges, and two posts.

The balls should be about ten inches in circumference, perfectly spherical, and should weigh about eight ounces. They should be designated by different colors, either by painting the entire surface of the ball, or by a stripe of the color merely. But the first method is much to be preferred, as a ball needs all the protection it can have to preserve it from the effects of the weather, and for this purpose nothing is better than good oil paint and varnish. There is a universal predisposition towards large balls by all novices in the game; but experience will invariably give the preference to a ball not more than ten inches in circumference, if of rock maple or birch, and if of box-wood, not more than nine and one-half inches.

MALLET.

The mallet head should be about 2⅜ inches in diameter, and 4¼ inches long, shaped somewhat like a dice-box; and the handle 33 inches long, ¹⁵/₁₆ of an inch in diameter in the largest part, and ⅝ of an inch in the smallest. It is customary to paint some portion of the mallets to correspond to the colors on the balls. This is a very great advantage in distinguishing the different players and assisting the memory to connect them with their respective balls, and we much prefer it; but some players prefer to leave the mallets undistinguished, and to allow each player to select his own,—choosing such weight, size and length as he may desire—and perhaps there is no objection to this. A feeble or delicate person may not be able to play as well with a mallet of the standard size as his opponent, and thus will be upon an unequal footing with him at the outset; while, if each selects such as is suitable to his or her condition, all will be satisfactorily equipped, and, of course, upon equal terms, as far as the implements are concerned. For balls and mallet heads good rock maple is the most desirable of all our native woods, and hickory is the best for mallet handles. Box-wood is very good for mallet heads, but is too heavy for balls. Box-wood mallet heads and good rock maple balls, well painted, make an elegant and superior set, and are preferable to a complete box-wood set, while rosewood and lignum-vitæ balls are little better than iron, and entirely unfit to use.

The bridges should be made of iron wire about 5/16 of an inch in diameter, in form like an ox-bow. The width of the bridge should be equal to the circumference of the ball, and the hight such that when firmly set it will stand out of the ground a distance equal to its width. They should be uniform in color. White is best, as it is more easily seen, and contrasts more pleasingly with the green of the turf. Some have adopted the practice of painting them of different colors, but the reason assigned seems not to be a good one, and experience almost unanimously pronounces in favor of a uniform light color.

THE BRIDGE.

One manufacturer has adopted and patented the happy idea of galvanizing or plating the iron bridges with zinc, which gives them a permanent light color, and at the same time perfectly preserves them from rust.

Some writers assert that withs or firkin hoops answer very well for bridges. They may answer as a very poor substitute, but a good croquet player would no sooner play with such materials than a billiard player with a slack rope for a cushion or an umbrella for a cue. In many of the scientific “shots” of the game, the player calculates upon the rigidity of the bridges, and an iron bridge, when set in sandy soil, is at best none too rigid; and with loose or springy bridges the game loses much of its attraction to a good player.

THE POST.

The posts should be about 28 inches long, 1½ inches in diameter in the largest part, and pointed so as to be driven into the ground. They should have rings painted on them corresponding to the colors of the balls, and of such width that the bottom ring will be as high from the ground as the top of the bridges. Thus, supposing the post to be 28 inches long, commencing at the top, make each ring 1¼ inches wide. This will occupy 10 inches, and hence allow the posts to be driven into the ground 8 inches, and still have the lowest color so high from the turf that it can be easily seen from any portion of the ground. The order of the colors on the post is not essential so long as the light and dark colors alternate; but the two uppermost colors belong to the chiefs of the two sides, and therefore most properly should be black and white, as those are the best representatives of dark and light colors. The exact arrangement of the succeeding colors is immaterial, but the following is very good, commencing at the top:

1. Black. 2. White. 3. Blue. 4. Yellow.

5. Brown. 6. Red. 7. Green. 8. Pink.

As the order of the colors on the posts governs that of the play, and since those on each side play alternately, it follows that in a game of eight the dark balls, black, blue, brown, and green, are matched against the light ones, white, yellow, red and pink.

Many devices have been suggested for marking the bridges when run, such as clips or markers, painting the bridges different colors, &c., &c., but they have all proved to be useless, as a player who is interested in the game will remember his own position more easily than he will remember to change the marker.

THE GROUND.

In contemplating the preparation of a Croquet ground, the first question that occurs is, how much and what kind of ground is necessary. The size of the ground, as well as the distance between the bridges, is governed very much by the taste and accommodation of the owner.

A model Croquet ground has been defined as an elliptical field one hundred feet long and sixty feet wide, with the bridges from nine to twelve feet apart; but persons possessed of only a limited plot of ground need not conclude that the above dimensions are absolutely necessary, for a very interesting game may be played on ground not more than sixty feet long and thirty feet wide, with the bridges from six to eight feet apart. The bounds may be imaginary lines defined by corner bounds, or they may be walks or other natural bounds suggested by the nature of the ground; or if a plot is prepared expressly for the purpose, a ditch about eight inches wide, and six inches deep, well turfed is probably the best bound that can be made.

A smooth, closely cut turf is always to be chosen, and is improved by a thorough rolling with a very heavy roller, or, if that is not available, a few hours’ work with a heavy mall will bring the ground into very good condition. Next to having the turf smooth, the most important point is to have the ground level; and yet a very good game can be played on an uneven or sloping ground, if in making the strokes and determining the necessary force and direction, a proper calculation is made with reference to the condition of the surface over which the ball is to pass. It in fact shows more skill to play a good game upon a poor ground than upon a perfect one.

GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF THE GAME.

Two players being designated captains or chiefs, one for each side, sides are chosen in the usual manner. The privilege of first choice of players is very conveniently decided between the chiefs by each placing his ball under the first bridge and striking for the starting post; the one who thus drives his ball nearest the post gaining the first choice.

The chief who has the first choice takes the ball corresponding in color with the top of the post, and the other chief the next ball according to the order of the colors on the posts, while the remaining balls are given to the other players in the order in which they are chosen. (See remark under Rule II.)

Eight persons can play, but a game of four or six is the most interesting. If four or more play, each player uses but one ball; but if only two play, the game is improved by each player taking two balls and playing them alternately as usual. If there be an odd number of players—either three, five or seven—the players play against each other individually, or one person takes two balls and plays each in its proper turn.

Assuming that each player has a ball and a mallet, that the bridges are arranged in either of the three positions given in diagrams Nos. 1, 2 and 3, we now come to the mode of playing the game. The object is to drive the balls through all the bridges, in the direction indicated by the dotted lines on the diagrams, and to strike the two posts. The side, all of whose members succeed in performing this feat first, wins the game. Now although this is the chief object of the game, yet the act from which it derives its title, to wit: “Croquet,” is of much greater importance than would at first be imagined. If a player hit with his ball any of the others, he is allowed to place his own against the ball he has struck, and setting his foot upon his own ball, he hits it with the mallet, and the force of the blow drives off the other ball while the playing ball remains stationary. As a player is allowed to Croquet either friend or foe, it is evident that he can do a great deal of damage or service, according to his inclination, since he is at liberty to drive the ball in any direction he pleases.

The Roquet-Croquet is an operation still more interesting than the Croquet as it is susceptible of much greater skill in its execution. This is accomplished the same as the Croquet, except that instead of holding one ball firmly by placing the foot upon it, both balls are left free to be driven together by the blow of the mallet. By practice and a skillful placing of the balls a stroke may be made that will cause the balls to diverge in any forward directions the player may desire.

In commencing a game, the first chief places his ball one-third the distance from the starting post to the first bridge, and endeavors, by striking it with the end of his mallet’s head, to drive it through the first bridge. If he succeeds, he continues his turn and attempts to send the ball through the second bridge, and then through the third, for driving the ball through a bridge, or hitting another ball, generally imparts the privilege of an additional stroke.

When one ball driven by a blow of the mallet hits another, it is said to make Roquet on that ball.

When the first player, who should be black, has missed, white goes on, and the other players follow in the order of the colors on the posts, and very soon comes the opportunity to use the great advantages of the Croquet and Roquet-Croquet. Often when a player has his ball in a good position in front of a bridge, another will hit it, and then by Croquet or Roquet-Croquet drive it to the other end of the ground, compelling it perhaps to take two or three turns before it can regain its former position. Occasionally two or three balls lie close together, and one is struck by a ball which was some distance off. The player is now allowed to place his ball by the side of the one it has struck, thus gaining position near the others, so that after croqueting it he is almost sure of hitting the others.

As an example of the use of the Roquet-Croquet, we will take diagram No. 1, and suppose that white plays with success through the first two bridges, and that black lies somewhere beyond the second bridge. Now if there was no other ball near, it would be impossible for white to continue to play and pass through the third bridge, because it will require one stroke to get in position for that bridge: but if white can Roquet black, then she can Roquet-Croquet with black up in front of the third bridge, and then, as the Roquet gives another stroke, play through the third bridge and perhaps through the fourth and fifth. If below the fifth she should find, say the brown ball, to Roquet-Croquet with, it would be possible to get in front of No. 6, and then down to the turning post and hitting that return up through No. 6. Here the brown ball may again be roqueted, and then roquet-croqueted, into position for No. 8, and so on. This of course could only happen if white was an extra player and the other balls were in very favorable positions, but it serves as an illustration of the use of this very valuable stroke. The player who reaches the turning-post first, has great advantages for a time, for as soon as he touches it, he commences his return journey, and meeting the other players on their way to the farthest point of their journey, he is able to croquet them and considerably impede their progress.

When a player has passed through all the bridges, he becomes what is called in the technical language of Croquet, a rover, and is privileged to rove about all over the ground, croqueting his friends and foes. It is therefore obvious that a good player can prove, when thus situated, of immense advantage to his side, and should generally avoid hitting the starting post till all on his side have passed through the last bridge. The excitement towards the end of the game, often becomes intense, and each stroke is watched with the keenest interest. Gradually, one by one, the players hit the post, until perhaps only two remain, and now occurs an opportunity for skillful play. The object of both is first to hit the post, and failing in that, to keep as far off his adversary as he can. Each endeavors, at the same time drawing nearer to the great object in view, to keep the post between his and the other ball. At length one plays at the post, misses it, and sends his ball near his adversary, who first hits it, next croquets it away, and then strikes the post, and wins the victory.

ARRANGEMENT OF THE BRIDGES.

Diagram No. 1.

This arrangement of the bridges, which is the simplest of the three we have drawn, is the one which we recommend for all eight handed games, or for beginners.

DIAGRAM No. 1.

The figures marked on this diagram are intended merely to furnish a relative scale of distances. Thus with these distances the posts are 53 feet apart, which is perhaps more than is desirable, unless the ground is very perfect, or the players experts.

The course of the ball is indicated by the dotted lines, and the arrows show the direction in which the balls proceed on the round. It will be observed that bridge No. 3 is to the left of No. 2. As represented in this diagram, bridges 3 and 10 are set a little in advance of 2, and 6 a little in advance of 5 and 8. Some players prefer that 10, 2 and 3 should be in a straight line, and the same with 8, 6 and 5. We prefer to have 3 and 10 enough in advance of 2 to make it just possible for an expert by a very superior stroke to run No. 2 and get position for No. 3 at one blow, and the same with 5, 6 and 8. In short, we would have the arrangement such that it is not absolutely impossible for a player to make the grand round in one tour, without the aid of the roquet. This of course would very rarely be accomplished,—never, except by extraordinarily skillful play,—yet it should be made possible, but very difficult.

DIAGRAM No. 2.

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Diagram No. 2.

In this the same number of bridges are used, as in the first diagram; but the bridges numbered respectively 4 and 9, instead of being placed parallel to the others, are now at right angles to them; thus in playing from 3 to 4, the ball must keep to the left of 4, and then pass through it, from the outside of the game; a much more difficult arrangement than the first, and somewhat more difficult than the third, although at first sight it may not appear so.

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DIAGRAM No. 3.

Diagram No. 3.

In this, the third diagram, it will be seen that the two center side bridges are done away with, and that one is placed in the center of the ground instead; but although in the play we now require one bridge less than in the former diagram, yet the player will have to pass through the same number of bridges as before, since he travels twice through the bridge in the center, once on his way to the turning post, and once on his return. This is the best arrangement of bridges for a four-handed game. As the player’s knowledge of Croquet increases, many other positions will suggest themselves; but those we have presented are the simplest, and are the diagrams in general use at the present time. Some authors recommend the invariable use of diagram No. 1, as being sufficiently difficult, especially when bridges 10, 2 and 3 are on a line.

RULES OF THE GAME.

Striking the Ball.

I. At the commencement of the game the ball should be placed on a line drawn from the starting post to the center of the first bridge, and at a distance from the starting post, equal to one-third the distance from the post to the bridge.

[The rule usually given, i. e., to place the ball a mallet’s length from the post is very well for a large ground where the distance from post to bridge is nine or ten feet, but for a small ground it brings the ball too near the first bridge.]

1. In striking, the mallet should be used with one hand, and the striker should stand on one side of, and not behind the ball.

2. The ball must be struck and not pushed—a push never being allowable under any circumstances; and the blow must be given with the face—never with the side—of the mallet head.

[A ball can never get into such a position on a croquet-ground that it cannot be struck in some direction, and if it is in a bad position it is either the fault or the misfortune of the player owning the ball—which he is not to be allowed to rectify by a push, for that would sometimes be rewarding bad play.]

3. Whenever the mallet hits the ball, if it moves it however slightly, it must be considered a stroke.

4. The player may if he wholly miss his ball, strike at it again.

II. The game is opened by the chief holding the ball corresponding in color with the top of the post, and the players on the two sides follow alternately according to the order of the colors on the posts.

[The playing must necessarily be in the order of the colors on the post. But on some grounds the chief is allowed to assign the balls to the several players on his side according to his own choice; thus according to this rule the chief is not compelled to play the first ball. We do not advise this practice as there is generally some real or fancied difference in the mallets and hence a chief is liable to offend some one in the distribution of the materials. There are other objections which we have not space to discuss.]

1. A player who misses the first bridge is called a booby, and at his next turn must strike his ball from the position to which it last rolled.

[The above rule is based upon the almost universal practice of the best players in this country. The following is gaining favor in England: “A ball missing the first bridge must be immediately picked up and played from the starting spot, at its next turn.” Both practices have peculiar advantages over the other, which we have not space to discuss.]

2. A roquet made upon, or by, a booby does not entitle the player to an extra stroke; neither can a booby croquet or be croqueted.

3. If any ball is played out of its proper turn and discovered before the play of another ball has commenced, the misplayed ball may be returned to its original place, or permitted to remain in that to which it has rolled, at the option of the chief of the opposing side. But if the mistake is discovered before the player has finished his turn and the misplay be allowed, the misplayer shall be permitted to finish his turn. If the chief does not permit the misplay, the misplayed ball shall be returned to its original place, and any damages sustained or advantages gained by either side shall be canceled. If the misplay is not discovered before the play of another ball commences, or is allowed, the misplayer cannot use his next turn as he has anticipated it.

4. If a player use a wrong ball, all the balls moved by such play must be returned to their former position, and the misplayer lose his turn.

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Running a Bridge.

III. A player continues to play so long as he makes a point in the game.

1. Making a point is running one or more bridges, striking the turning-post in order, or performing the roquet (except on a booby, or on a ball the second time in one tour without making an intervening step.)

2. A player is allowed but one extra stroke, even though he make roquet and run one or more bridges at one stroke.

3. If a player makes two steps at one stroke, he may take position one mallet’s length or less, in any direction from where the ball rested.

4. If a player makes three steps at one stroke, he may take position as above up to two mallet lengths or less.

IV. The bridges must be passed through in their regular order in the direction of the course. (This is called running a bridge.)

1. A ball runs a bridge when it passes through it in order and course, by a direct blow, by roquet, roquet-croquet, croquet or concussion. Hence, for a player to drive his ball through a bridge out of its regular order, or from the wrong side counts no more than to pass over any other part of the field.

2. A ball is not through its bridge when the handle of the mallet laid across the two piers of the bridge upon the side from whence the ball came, touches the ball without moving the bridge.

3. A ball passing under its bridge in the wrong direction is not in position to run the bridge until it has passed clear through according to the foregoing rule.

4. A ball lying under a bridge is not in position for that bridge if it has been so placed by the hand for the purpose of croquet or roquet-croquet, no matter from what position it may have been taken.

[If the ball was taken from the back of the bridge, it would not be in position, having come from the wrong side, as above. Now if it should be allowed that a ball may be taken from the front of the bridge and placed under the bridge without losing position, as would at first seem proper, then the question immediately arises as to a ball when taken from a position directly on a line with the two piers of the bridge, thus coming from neither front nor back. This question can rarely be settled without dispute, to avoid which we have considered the adoption of the above rule as most judicious.]

V. Tolling the turning post is in all respects equivalent to running a bridge, but the post may be tolled from any quarter.

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Striking Out.

VI. A ball, after it has run all the bridges, may hit the starting post either by a blow from its owner’s mallet, by roquet, roquet-croquet, croquet or concussion, and is then a dead ball, and must be immediately removed from the field.

1. A player who having run all the bridges strikes the starting post, is out of the game, his turn is omitted, and the play goes on as before. If, instead of striking the post, he continues to play, he is called a rover.

2. When all the balls on one side have made the grand round and hit the starting post, that side has won the game.

[Some authors on Croquet require the ball to be placed on the spot or starting point before continuing play as a rover. But this rule seems to be entirely arbitrary—useless—and to have been adopted for no sufficient reason.]

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The Rover.

VII. If the roquet-croquet is allowed to all players alike, the rover is governed entirely by the same laws as other players.

1. Therefore, a rover having completed the grand round, and having no other steps to make (except stepping out, when of course his play ceases,) can only acquire the right to continuance of play by the roquet. He may (after roquet upon it) croquet or roquet-croquet each ball once only during a tour. Roquet upon a ball the second time during a tour does not entitle him to a continuance of play.

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Roquet.

VIII. A ball roquets another when it comes in contact with it by a direct blow of the mallet, or rebounds upon it after the blow, from any fixed obstacle of the ground or from another ball.

1. A ball having roqueted another ball, except a booby, is at liberty to croquet or roquet-croquet it or proceed on its round; providing that the playing ball has not already in that tour roqueted that same ball since making a step on the round.

2. A ball may roquet another ball twice between two consecutive steps, but the second roquet does not entitle the player to a continuance of play.

3. Any player in his turn is at liberty at any time to make roquet on any ball on the ground.

4. Roquet does not entitle a booby to a continuance of play.

5. Roquet on a booby does not entitle the playing ball to a continuance of play.

6. A ball having made roquet and declined the croquet, may continue its play either from the position to which it has rolled after the roquet, or from the side of the roqueted ball.

7. If a ball roquet another and thereby gain the privilege of croquet, and afterwards, at the same blow, run a bridge; it may croquet the roqueted ball, then proceed to roquet it again, then croquet again and proceed on its round; or waiving either or both croquets, or the last roquet and croquet, may proceed on its round.

[Thus supposing the playing ball roquets a ball that it has not roqueted since making a step, and afterwards at the same blow runs a bridge; it of course has a right to croquet the roqueted ball; then as that roquet was made before the playing ball run its bridge there is no reason why it cannot again roquet and croquet the same ball. But had the playing ball first run a bridge and afterwards at the same blow roqueted a ball then it can have but one croquet according to Rule IX.]

8. The continuance of play is gained by virtue of the roquet, and not of the croquet. The croquet is merely a privilege consequent upon the roquet. Therefore to waive a croquet does not terminate the play. This principle once fixed in the mind will avoid much confusion in understanding and interpreting the rules.

[One author on Croquet, assumes to propound a set of rules on double points which are entirely new and at variance with all previously established principles of the game, inasmuch as they allow a player to waive any point made or privilege gained. It is an established fact in Croquet that a player may waive any privilege that he has acquired—but it is also as well established that a step once made can not be taken back. The beauty of Croquet is in a great degree due to its simplicity, and the granting of the above right to players adds one-half to the difficulties of the game, without adding in the least to its interest. A game of Croquet in which all the players except the rover are denied the privilege of roquet-croquet, and in which the right to waive a step is introduced, becomes at once twice as intricate, requires double the rules to explain it, and loses one-half its interest.]

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The Croquet and Roquet-Croquet.

IX. A player may croquet or roquet-croquet any number of balls consecutively; but he can croquet or roquet-croquet only those balls on which he has made roquet, and roquet on the same ball the second time in one tour without an intervening step does not entitle the player to a croquet.

1. If a player in the act of croqueting does not separate the balls, he is at liberty to take the stroke over again.

[Instead of the above the following rule is often given. A croquet is completed when the mallet makes a perceptible (that is an audible) blow against the croqueting ball, whether that to be croqueted move from its place or not. This rule gives rise to frequent disputes whether the blow was perceptible or not, and is not as generally acceptable as the one we have given.]

2. If a player in executing the roquet-croquet does not move the croqueted ball from its position, his tour of play ceases, unless by the same stroke he makes a point.

[If it is in dispute whether or not the ball has been moved as above required, the question shall be decided by the umpire if there be one, if not, by the chief of the side opposing the player. Some authors allow the roquet-croquet to the rover only—but as it is one of the most scientific operations of the game, the majority of players are not willing to give it exclusively to the rover, especially when it is considered that a person who is able to become an early rover, will naturally have advantage enough without any extra favors. Further, the argument that the universal use of the roquet-croquet tends to perceptibly prolong the game has been proved by actual test to be without foundation.]

3. If a ball is croqueted either through its own bridge or upon the turning or starting post when in order, a point so made holds good.

4. In making ricochet the player is at liberty to croquet either a part or all of the balls roqueted; but the order of croquet must be that of the ricochet,—the player, however, has only one additional stroke, and not one for each ball he has roqueted.

5. If a ball when croqueted or driven through its own bridge from the rear roll back through the bridge, it has not run that bridge.

[This rule is based upon the principle that all questions as to position can only be satisfactorily determined when the ball is not in motion. In the case put it would frequently be impossible to decide whether the ball when it began to roll back was in position or not.]

X. The laws that govern Croquet all apply to Roquet-Croquet, except as to points for which special rules are herein given.

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The Flinch.

XI. If a ball flinch in the execution of the croquet, it is considered as merely an accidental roquet-croquet, and subject to the same laws. In this case of course any point made or advantage gained by either ball holds good.

[By adopting this rule all unpleasant difference of opinion as to the proper positions of the balls is avoided, and as the origin of the roquet-croquet was this very practice of placing the foot lightly upon the playing ball and then allowing both balls to be moved together—there seems to be no objection to the rule.]

1. The above rule only applies in a game where the roquet-croquet is allowed to all players.

2. In case the roquet-croquet is only allowed to the rover, the following rule applies: If the player’s ball flinch in executing the croquet, he forfeits the remainder of his tour, and no point made by a flinching ball is valid, and the balls are considered as accidentally displaced and are replaced in accordance with the rule applying to accidentally displaced balls.

XII. A ball accidentally displaced must be returned, by the chief of the side opposed to the person displacing it, to the place where it was lying before the play proceeds.

XIII. If a ball be hit off the ground it is to be placed at once, and before the play proceeds, twelve inches within the limit of the boundary and at a point nearest to where it stopped, which of course causes the ball to be brought in square with the boundary.

XIV. If a ball in its progress over the ground, be interrupted by the person or mallet of an enemy the ball may be placed by the chief of the side owning the ball, in such position as he may judge it would have rested had it not been interrupted in its progress. If interrupted by the person or mallet of a friend the ball may be placed by the chief of the opposing side in such position as he may judge it would have rested.

A person not taking part in the game, should never be within the bounds of a croquet ground when a game is in progress—but should such person accidentally be in such a position and either displace a ball, or interrupt it in its progress—such person shall be considered as an enemy to the owner of the ball—and the ball be replaced according to rules XII. and XIV.

SUGGESTIONS TO BEGINNERS.

Keep your temper—and remember when your turn comes.

Make good use of the privilege of croquet and roquet-croquet, and not consider it the sole object of the game to run the bridges,—and yet it is not well to too much neglect the bridges, as they must all be run before you can become a rover.

Practice the roquet-croquet whenever an opportunity offers, as it is susceptible of more scientific playing than any other stroke.

Accustom yourself to be guided strictly according to established rules as far as you are informed on the subject.

Do not attempt to use a kind of push and call it a stroke although it may not be expressly forbidden in some manual of croquet.

Avoid acquiring the habit of standing behind the ball and holding the mallet in a perpendicular position with both hands when making a stroke, even though you play with those who do not object to the practice, as it will not be allowed on any well-regulated croquet ground. In making a stroke grasp your mallet firmly; strike squarely—take care that your wrist does not turn or twist, (unless you wish to give a twist to your ball,) and after getting your aim look rather at your mark than at your ball when giving the blow. After calculating distance, direction, &c., there is no more use in looking at your ball except to be sure you can hit it, than in throwing a stone, to look at your hand, rather than the mark.

If the enemy have an expert rover it is generally advisable to use every effort to strike him out.

As an offset to this method of play it is often advisable to neglect to make the last bridge till near the close of the game, as in this way you can venture as near the starting post as you please without the fear of being deaded.

It is often the case that you and an enemy may both be in position for the last bridge. In such a case as a general rule roquet him, then croquet or roquet-croquet through the bridge, roquet again and croquet him against the starting post, thus depriving the other side of a rover, and gaining the advantage of bringing two of your own side into consecutive play.

Leave your own ball as near your friend and as far from an enemy as possible.

Accustom yourself as much as possible to strike with one hand, as it is much more graceful, and many players allow no other blow.

The ladies will very much oblige all their associates in croquet by avoiding long dresses, which are continually dragging the balls about over the ground greatly to the annoyance of the players and disturbance of the game.

To the gentlemen we would say it is no proof of skill in executing the croquet, to swing your mallet with both hands, and give a blow hard enough to kill an ox. If you want to do that sort of thing—it would be more agreeable to all concerned for you to go off alone somewhere and split wood. An easy skillful stroke will send a ball anywhere within the bounds, and a ball out of bounds may be brought in, so nothing is gained by “sledge hammering,” except injuring the implements, irritating the players and delaying the game.

In executing the roquet-croquet the stroke may be varied so as to produce three very different results. First, if it is desirable to have the secondary ball go much further than your own, strike a sharp, quick blow, proportioned in force to the distance you wish your own ball to go, checking the force the instant the mallet hits the ball. Secondly, if you wish to send both balls along together strike a more sweeping blow, (not a push) permitting the mallet to have its full swing. The difference in these two blows is much more easily discovered by the player than described with the pen.

The third stroke may partake of the nature of either of the above, but differs in the fact that the blow of the mallet is not delivered in a line with the centers of the two balls, but partially to one side of the rear ball, thus producing the splitting stroke, i. e., sending the two balls in courses diverging from each other. This is much the most difficult stroke of the three.

In procuring a set of croquet materials be sure that you know what you want, or else buy a set manufactured by some recognized manufacturer. It may seem a very simple thing to have a set of mallets, &c., made from a description, but having tried the experiment we can testify that to procure suitable lumber—well seasoned, have mallets well shaped, the handles serviceable and not bungling, the balls perfectly round, the bridges well formed and proportioned—and the painting brilliant and properly arranged is a very difficult matter. An English author on this subject says, “It was our fortune (or rather misfortune) when in the country last year to take part in a game of Croquet played with home-made materials. We only hope that it will never be our lot to play with such things again. The mallets were so large they had to be used as one would a scythe in mowing grass. The heads, instead of tapering at the center, bore a great resemblance to an ale barrel on a small scale, and were so large that if one attempted to croquet, one was sure to hit one’s own foot instead of the ball. These, by-the-by, were any shape but round. They bobbed up and down when in progress, and scarcely ever went in the direction which it was intended for them to go.... Such was the unsatisfactory result of the combined labors of the local carpenter and blacksmith. We therefore earnestly recommend our readers to eschew the use of home-made sets of Croquet altogether.”

We endorse the foregoing statement, adding that responsible manufacturers in various parts of the country are now furnishing excellent sets of implements at a cheaper rate than individuals can get up equally good sets for themselves. There is therefore no economy in using a home-made set.

Parlor Croquet is a very good substitute for the Lawn game, and may be enjoyed in a winter day or evening very much as canned fruit or preserved flowers are enjoyed as excellent and beautiful substitutes for the delicious fruits of autumn and fragrant flowers of summer. But as the canned fruit is insipid when used beside the fresh fruit of autumn, so will the parlor game seem when attempted in the season of the field sport. There are two kinds of Parlor Croquet—which may be termed Carpet Croquet, and Table or Board Croquet.

The Carpet Croquet is played exactly like the field game and with similar materials except that they are usually smaller, being reduced in size in the same proportion that the space available in a room is smaller than the Lawn Croquet ground. The same relative proportion in the size of materials should be preserved as that given for the materials of the Lawn game—assuming as a standard—a ball from 2¼ to 2½ inches in diameter. There are several ingenious devices for fastening the bridges to the floor or carpet. Each one of those which we have seen have some objections; but those which are fastened with tacks are the simplest and we consider them the best.

The Board game is played on a board of any convenient size—say five feet long and three feet wide—covered with baize or flannel, and surrounded by a ledge or thin strip projecting above the top surface three-fourths of an inch.

The bridges and posts are set in this board in the same manner that the larger bridges are set in the ground on the lawn. The balls should be about one inch in diameter and may be of glass—but box-wood or ivory are better.

The size of the mallets should be in proportion to that of the balls—with handles about eight inches long.

The method of play is the same as in Lawn Croquet, except the croquet is executed by placing the finger instead of the foot on the playing ball. The rules are the same, except that, first, a player driving his ball off the board terminates his tour of play by that stroke and the ball must be placed immediately on the starting spot; second, making two or more steps at one stroke does not entitle the player to the privilege of taking position up to one or more mallet’s length.

The Board Croquet is the most popular for the reason that it does not injure the furniture in any room, while the Carpet Croquet, although more like the Lawn game, requires a large room—well cleared—or there will soon be an action of Croquet vs. furniture.

VOCABULARY.

A Booby.—A ball that has attempted to run the first bridge and failed.

Bridges or Arches.—The iron hoops or bows through which the balls pass.

Bridged Ball.—A ball that has run the first bridge.

Concussion.—The displacement of a ball by another driven against it by roquet, croquet, ricochet, or roquet-croquet, and not hit directly either by the mallet or by the playing ball.

Croquet.—(Pronounced Cró-kay.) The title of the game.

The Croquet.—Any ball having struck another, is taken up and placed in contact with the ball it has struck. The player sets his foot upon his own ball, pressing firmly so as to hold it in place, and with a blow of his mallet, delivered upon his own ball, drives the other ball in whatever direction he may desire. (See cut, page 19.)

Dead Ball.—One that has made the grand round and hit the starting post.

Distanced.—A ball is distanced when at the termination of the game it has not tolled the turning post.

Down.—The course from the turning post to the starting post.

A Flinch.—When in the croquet, the playing ball is driven from under the foot by the blow of the mallet, it is called a flinch.

Front of a Bridge.—The side from which the ball must proceed in running it, and with the central bridges is not constant, but is decided in each case by the course of the ball under consideration.

Grand Round.—A ball has made the grand round when it has run all the bridges and tolled the turning post, and is then a rover.

Playing Ball.—The ball struck with the mallet.

Point.—A player makes a point, by running a bridge or tolling a post, or by roqueting a ball that he has not previously roqueted during the tour—since making the step—or in other words, by roqueting a ball under such circumstances as would entitle him to the privilege of the croquet.

Position.—A ball is in position when it lies in front of its proper bridge with a possibility of running it by a single blow of the mallet.

Proper Bridge.—A bridge which it is a player’s turn to run next in order is said to be that player’s bridge or his proper bridge.

Push.—A stroke in which the mallet remains in contact with the ball after the instant of contact.

Ricochet.—(Rick´-o-shay.)—A ball making Roquet on two or more balls by the same blow of the mallet.

Roquet.—(Ro´-kay.) A ball makes Roquet on another ball when proceeding from a blow of the mallet it comes in contact with it either directly or by rebounding from a fixed obstacle in the ground or from another ball.

[Some writers define the Roquet as the contact of the playing ball with another ball under such circumstances as to constitute a point. This is merely a matter of choice regarding the facility of defining the other operations of the game. We consider that our definition renders the whole matter much the most simple.]

Roquet-Croquet.—The same as Croquet, except that the playing ball is not held under the foot, but both balls are free to move in accordance with the blow of the mallet.

A Rover.—A ball that has run all the bridges and has not hit the starting post.

Starting Post.—The stake from which the play proceeds. See diagram.

A Step.—Running a bridge, or tolling the turning post.

Striking Out.—A ball struck against the starting post after having run all the bridges in their proper order, is struck out, and is out of the game.

The Turning Post.—The post opposite the starting post.

Tolling the Turning Post.—Striking the turning post in its proper order.

Under a Bridge.—A ball is under a bridge when if the mallet handle is placed across the piers of the bridge on each side it will touch the ball in both positions of the handle.

Up.—The course from the starting post to the turning post.