Читать книгу Thailand's Best Street Food - Chawadee Nualkhair - Страница 7

Bangkok

Chinatown • Banglamphu • Hualamphong Silom/Sathorn • Sukhumvit • Other Areas

The Thai capital is the center of the country’s street food world and is the point from which the country’s culinary trends flow. From char-grilled Isaan-style meat to fried noodles bathed in seafood gravy, Thailand’s best street food dishes can be found in this metropolis, and for the most part with minimal effort. The trick lies in determining which of the city’s numerous food stalls are worth patronizing.

Over time, Bangkok has served as the setting for most of Thailand’s major culinary developments, be it the growth of the industry on the backs of Thai-Chinese vendors during the reign of King Rama IV, the street food boom after the widespread incorporation of women into the workplace or the recent inclusion of “foreign” street foods in the culinary lexicon. As a result, there are an estimated 500,000 street food stalls set up at 683 points in 50 districts of the city.

How the food stalls in this book were selected

A good number of the stands offer the standard fare consumed by Thais: juices, sliced fruit and soft drinks/carbonated beverages. Basic dishes, such as grilled bananas, omelets and pickled fruits, are also hawked daily. These types of stalls are not included in this book because one could conceivably pass for another. Because of the massive number of establishments in Bangkok, only well-known locations for street food are included, with some exceptions made for food stalls in areas not particularly known for their outstanding food.

Sukhothai noodles at Somsong Pochana, Banglamphu

Bangkok’s Best Street Food Districts

These are the best street food areas in the city to explore

CHINATOWN (YAOWARAJ)

This is Bangkok’s best-known street food area. Holding fast to its identity as the originator of Bangkok street food, Yaowaraj (also spelt Yaowarat) offers a dizzying array of specialties, most of which are Chinese or Thai-Chinese. Go at night-time to see the street food scene come alive. Adjacent to Chinatown is “Little India” or Pahurat.

BANGLAMPHU

Sometimes regarded as a tourist zone because of its proximity to Khao Sarn Road, this part of town offers many Thai, Thai-Chinese and Thai-Muslim specialties with a dash of “old city” atmosphere. For diners eager to witness this charm together with seriously delicious food, Banglamphu can’t be beaten.

HUALAMPHONG (SAM YAN)

One of the older street food areas in Bangkok, this collection of street corners, which includes a well-known wet market that was recently renovated, offers great diversity for the adventurous gourmet.

SILOM/SATHORN

Bangkok’s Central Business District is chock-a-block with lunchtime streetside spots catering to the voracious and varied appetites of the typical Thai office worker. Night-time draws a different, more eclectic, crowd.

SUKHUMVIT

Bangkok’s monied residential district encompasses a mix of wealthy Thais and expats. Although dominated by upscale European restaurants and fast food joints, this major thoroughfare also is home to food stalls that hawk some delectable Thai and Thai-Chinese specialties.

OTHER AREAS

You might consider yourself in the middle of nowhere, but you can be certain there is a delicious reason as to why you are trekking there.

Bangkok Chinatown’s Yaowaraj Road at night

Chinatown (YAOWARAJ)

Bangkok’s Chinatown—or what the locals call “Yaowaraj”—epitomizes the hustle and bustle, fun and chaos and smells, sights and sounds of Thai street food 24 hours a day. From early in the morning when the curry rice vendors start hawking their wares and the market vendors begin to set up shop, until late in the evening when the rice porridge shops and streetside seafood restaurants rule the roost, Chinatown is a simmering cauldron of culinary activity.

Despite the widespread assimilation of the ethnic Chinese in Thailand, Chinatown has retained a strong Chinese identity. Made up largely of Hokkien and Teochew, the Thai-Chinese population has grown by leaps and bounds since the 1700s when the seeds of Bangkok’s Chinatown were first sown. Yaowaraj (or Yaowarat) Road, Chinatown’s main thoroughfare, was built in 1891 during the reign of King Rama V, who also gave the neighborhood the name Yaowaraj, which means “young king”.

Today, Chinatown is still known as a major center of commerce for food items and Chinese goods. Tuk-tuk still ply the roads that wind through the area, Chinese opera can still be heard some evenings and local residents continue to line up for their favorite street food snacks after work or school. For lovers of Thai street food, a visit to this part of town is a must.

Guaythiew Lod

กวยเตี๋ยวหลอด, ถนนเยาวราช หนารานนาฬิกาไซโกที่อยูขางรานหูฉลามสกาลา

STREETSIDE CART, YAOWARAJ ROAD, CHINATOWN

Despite its humble appearance, this stall serves among the best stuffed flat noodles in the city: rice noodles smothered under a blanket of bean sprouts, pork, calamari and shiitake mushrooms, soaked in a delicious soy-based sauce.

GETTING THERE

In front of the Seiko watch shop and next to Hu Chalaam Scala

Tel 02-225-3558, 081-559-8339

Open 18.30–1.00 except Monday

SPECIALTY

Flat noodles stuffed with pork (guaythiew lod), 35 baht

กวยเตี๋ยวหลอดกับหมู

OPTIONS

With egg (sai kai), without egg (mai kai), extra pork (moo piset)

NOTABLE EXTRAS

Fish maw soup (krapho pla), 50–100 baht (depending on size)

STANDARD TOPPINGS

Bean sprouts, scallions, deep-fried garlic

BEVERAGES

Fresh water (nam plao), iced chrysanthemum tea (geck huay yen), 10 baht

SEATING Yes

ON THE TABLE

Chopsticks, forks and spoons, condiment tray, vinegar with peppers, Chinese black vinegar (zisho)

RESTROOM No

Nai Jui

นายจุย ขาวหมูแดงหมูกรอบ, ถนนเยาวราช ขางรานเซี้ยหูฉลาม

STREETSIDE CART, YAOWARAJ ROAD, CHINATOWN

Delicious (and naturally crispy) pork atop soft, fluffy rice and slathered in a thick, sweet sauce—what could be better? This stand offers a great example of this dish, plus its kissing cousins—barbecued pork and braised pork leg—all great celebrations of the pig on a plate.

GETTING THERE

On the Old Market side of Yaowaraj Road, a few feet from Xie Shark Fin

Tel 081-009-9746, 086-127-2666

Open 8.30–1.00 except Monday

SPECIALTY

Rice topped with crispy pork (khao moo grob), 35–50 baht (depending on how many boiled egg halves and how much pork)

ขาวหมูกรอบ

OPTIONS

With egg (sai kai), without egg (mai kai), extra pork (moo piset)

NOTABLE EXTRAS

Rice topped with red barbecued pork (khao moo daeng), 35–50 baht; rice with fatty pork leg (khao ka moo), 35–50 baht

STANDARD TOPPINGS

Side of sliced cucumber

BEVERAGES

Chinese-style black iced coffee (olieng), black iced tea (cha dum yen), iced chrysanthemum tea (geck huay yen), cocoa, longan juice (nam lamyai), roselle juice (nam krajiep), 10 baht

SEATING Yes

ON THE TABLE

Spring onions, sweet soy sauce, sliced chilies in vinegar, pounded chilies in vinegar, sugar, chili powder

RESTROOM No

Xie Shark Fin

เซี้ยหูฉลาม, ถนนเยาวราช ขางรานทองใบเยาวราช

STREETSIDE CART, YAOWARAJ ROAD, CHINATOWN

Yet another option in the wildly diverse world of noodles: Hong Kong-style egg noodles that resemble spaghetti, only thinner. This vendor serves up some consistently delicious examples of these noodles.

GETTING THERE

On the Old Market side of Yaowaraj Road, next to Tong Bai Yaowaraj

Tel 081-889-6976

Open 19.00–1.00 except Monday

SPECIALTY

“Hong Kong” fried egg noodles with crab, shrimp and chicken (bamee hong kong), 65 baht

บะหมี่ฮองกง

OPTIONS

Without crab (mai pu), shrimp (mai goong) and/or chicken (mai gai)

NOTABLE EXTRAS

Fish maw soup (krapho pla), 60 baht; shark’s fin soup (hu chalam), 300–500 baht (depending on size of fin)

STANDARD TOPPINGS

(for Hong Kong noodles) Shredded cabbage, spring onions, bean sprouts

BEVERAGES

Cold tea water (nam cha yen), 2 baht; iced chrysanthemum tea (geck huay yen), longan juice (nam lamyai), 10 baht

SEATING Yes

ON THE TABLE

Condiment tray with black Chinese vinegar (zisho), white pepper, chili powder, toothpicks

RESTROOM No

Jae Ouan Rad Na Yod Pak

เจอวนราดหนายอดผัก, ถนนเยาวราช หนารานนาฬิการาโด

STREETSIDE CART, YAOWARAJ ROAD, CHINATOWN

Bring your own tissues and an empty bladder to this unpretentious spot on the main thoroughfare in Bangkok’s Chinatown. This vendor serves up some of the best gravy noodles in the city.

GETTING THERE

On Yaowaraj Road, in front of a Rado Citizen watch shop, on the Plang Nam Road side of the street

Tel 081-552-9882, 081-633-5102

Open 17.30–2.00 daily

SPECIALTY

Fried noodles in gravy with pork and Chinese kale, 30–50 baht (depending on options); fried noodles with soy sauce 50–60 baht (depending on options)

ราดหนาหมูยอดผักคะนา

OPTIONS

• For noodles in gravy (guaythiew rard na): with egg (sai kai), rice vermicelli (sen mee), wide noodles (sen yai)

• For soy sauce noodles (guay thiew pad see ew): with egg (sai kai), rice vermicelli (sen mee), wide noodles (sen yai)

NOTABLE EXTRAS

Stir-fried Chinese kale (pad pak kanaa), 100 baht

STANDARD TOPPINGS

Stir-fried Chinese kale

BEVERAGES

Cold Chinese herbal water (nam jub liang), iced chrysanthemum tea (geck huay yen), 30 baht; fresh water (nam plao), 10 baht; orange juice (nam som), big bottle, 80 baht; longan juice, (nam lamyai), 30 baht; soft drink/carbonated beverage (nam atlom), 10 baht price?

SEATING Yes

ON THE TABLE

Forks and spoons, condiment tray, white pepper

RESTROOM No

Chujit

บัวลอยชูจิต, ถนนเยาวราช หนารานทองเซงเฮงหลี

STREETSIDE CART, YAOWARAJ ROAD, CHINATOWN

This streetside stall may not look like much but it serves up some of the best black grass jelly and black sesame-stuffed dumplings in the city. Try with gingko nuts donated by the nearby bird’s nest (rang nok) vendor.

GETTING THERE

On the Old Market side of Yaowaraj Road, in front of Seng Heng Lee Goldsmith

Tel 081-860-1053

Open 18.30–23.30 daily

SPECIALTY

Sesame-filled dumplings in ginger broth (bua loy nam khing), 30 baht; black grass jelly with shaved ice and syrup (chao guay), 15 baht

บัวลอยน้ําขิิง เฉากวย

OPTIONS

For black grass jelly: with gingko nuts (pae guay), 30 baht; gingko nuts only, 50 baht

NOTABLE EXTRAS

Ginger broth with tofu and fried dough, 15 baht

BEVERAGES

Chrysanthemum tea (geck huay), Chinese herbal beverage (lorhangguay), 20 baht; tofu milk (nam taohu), 10 baht

SEATING Yes

ON THE TABLE

Nothing but what you order

RESTROOM No

Than Ngi Hwood

ตัง้ หงีฮวดขา้ วตม้ เป็ด, 49 ซอยแปลงนาม ถา้ มาจากถนนเยาวราช อยูฝ่ ั่งขวา

SHOPHOUSE, 49 PLANG NAM ROAD, CHINATOWN

This shophouse serves a culinary rarity: duck rice porridge, a delicious and surprisingly light concoction that is heavy on the pepper and easy on the grease. While the atmosphere may be a bit solemn, the service is quietly solicitous.

GETTING THERE

On the right-hand side of the road if coming from Yaowaraj Road

Tel 02-227-6457, 086-751-9262

Open 10.00–21.00 daily

SPECIALTY

Duck porridge, 30 baht, 40 baht (extra duck). Extras: pork maw soup (krapho moo), 40 baht

ขาวตมเป็ ด

OPTIONS

Extra duck (piset), no duck blood (mai sai lued ped), no rice, only broth (gow low)

STANDARD TOPPINGS

Coriander, cubed duck blood, deep-fried garlic, pickled cabbage

BEVERAGES

Fresh water (nam plao), 10 baht; soft drink/carbonated beverage (nam atlom), 8 baht; Singha beer, 70 baht; Heineken beer, 80 baht; ice, 2 baht

SEATING Yes

ON THE TABLE

Toothpicks, fish sauce, vinegar with chilies, white pepper

RESTROOM

Western toilet, bowl of water to flush, no paper

Guay Jab Ouan Pochana

กวยจั๊บอวนโภชนา, ถนนเยาวราช หนาโรงภาพยนตรรามา

SHOPHOUSE, YAOWARAJ ROAD, CHINATOWN

Located in a former movie theater, this no-frills spot attracts a large night-time crowd with its brand of flat rice noodles in a clear, peppery pork broth. Try to arrive early to snag a table close to the chef (the man behind the steaming pile of pork trimmings).

GETTING THERE

In front of the Chinatown Rama movie theater on Yaowaraj Road

Open 18.00–3.00 daily

SPECIALTY

Hand-rolled Chinese noodles in pork broth (clear broth version), 30 baht; special serving or without noodles (gow low), 40 baht

กวยจั๊บน ้ําใส

OPTIONS

Pork (moo), pork entrails (krueang nai), without noodles (gow low)

NOTABLE EXTRAS

Rice, 5 baht

BEVERAGES

Chinese herbal beverage (lorhangguay), 15 baht; iced chrysanthemum tea (geck huay yen), longan juice (nam lamyai), lotus root juice (nam rak bua), 10 baht

SEATING Yes

ON THE TABLE

Condiment tray

RESTROOM

Squat toilet, no paper. Entrance fee of 5 baht, located upstairs, must walk down a dark hallway and unlock the padlocked door to enter

Lotchong Singapore

ลอดช่องสิงคโปร์, 680–682 สามแยกเจริญกรุง ตรงข้ามธนาคารเอเชีย (ยูโอบี)

SHOPHOUSE, 680–682 SAM YAAK CHAROEN KRUNG, CHINATOWN

This dessert vendor shares a space with a pork meatball noodle vendor. The lotchong, or green tapioca flour squiggles in coconut milk with shaved ice, is exemplary, an echo of the sweet treat all Thais loved as children.

GETTING THERE

Across from the Asia Bank (UOB Bank) in Sam Yaak Charoen Krung

Tel 2-221-57943O

Open 11.00–23.30 except Thursday

SPECIALTY

Green tapioca squiggles (lotchong) in coconut milk with shaved ice, 18 baht

ลอดชอง

BEVERAGES

Iced ginseng tea (cha som yen), 6 baht

SEATING Yes

ON THE TABLE

Condiment tray (for pork meatball noodles)

RESTROOM

Squat toilet, no paper

Nai Mong Hoy Tod

นายหมงหอยทอด, 539 ซอยพลับพลาไชย ถา้ มาจากเจริญกรุงอยูฝ่ ั่งขวา

SHOPHOUSE, 539 SOI PRAPACHAI, CHINATOWN

This hole-in-the-wall off Chinatown’s main drag may serve the very best oyster omelets in the city. Nai Mong can be a pleasure to visit as long as you sit far from the sweltering heat of the frying station.

GETTING THERE

Walk down Plang Nam Road, cross Charoen Krung Road and go about 50 meters down Soi Prapachai until you see the sign for Nai Mong on your right

Tel 089-773-3133, 02-623-1890

Open 11.00–21.30 daily

SPECIALTY

Oyster or mussel omelets, 65 baht

หอยแมงภูและหอยนางรม ทอด

OPTIONS

Oyster (hoy nangrom) or mussel (hoy mangpu); soft (nim) or crispy (grob)

NOTABLE EXTRAS

Crab fried rice (kha pad pu), 60 baht

BEVERAGES

Fresh water (nam plao), Coke, Sprite, 10 baht; Splash orange, 15 baht

SEATING Yes

ON THE TABLE

Chopsticks, forks and spoons, fish sauce, white pepper

RESTROOM

Western toilet, bucket of water to flush, no paper

Kangi Nam Tao Thong

คันกี่ น้ำเต้าทอง, 676 สามแยกเจริญกรุง

SHOPHOUSE, 676 CHAROEN KRUNG ROAD, CHINATOWN

This is no typical streetside stand. Instead, locals treat it like a drug store, and the steady stream of customers well into the evening attests to the efficacy of this old-time apothecary’s brews.

GETTING THERE

Located at the three-way intersection at 676 Charoen Krung Road

Tel 02-623-0718

Open 8.00–22.00 daily

SPECIALTY

Bitter medicine for a cough or sore throat (yaa kom); sweet medicine for a cold (yaa waan), 7 baht/glass, 25 baht/bottle

ยาขม สมุนไพรแกไอและเจ็บ คอ และยาหวานแกหวัด

NOTABLE EXTRAS

Tart-sweet flavor for excessive phlegm and as an antioxidant (nam makham pom), 7 baht/glass, 25 baht/bottle; sweet, to strengthen the heart and for bruises (nam bai bua bok), 7 baht/glass, 25 baht/bottle; bittersweet, to balance the body (nam geck huay), 20 baht/bottle; sweet, to cool a heated body (jab liang), 20 baht/bottle

SEATING No

RESTROOM No

Lim Lao Ngo

ลิ้มเหล่าโหงว (ถนนทรงสวัสด์ิ), ถนนทรงสวัสด์ิ หน้าบริษัทเจียไต๋

STREETSIDE CART, SONGSAWAD ROAD, CHINATOWN

At first glance, this unassuming mobile vendor in an outdoor food court might seem like no great deal but the packed tables attest otherwise. The prize is the super clear fish broth, acclaimed for its “unfishy” flavor.

GETTING THERE