Читать книгу Stuffed - Chris Fennimore - Страница 11

PART ONE

DOUGH

The concept couldn’t be simpler. Take some dough, any dough, wrap it around a tasty morsel of meat, cheese, vegetable, or any combination thereof, and then fry, bake, boil or braise it until the dough is cooked and the filling is succulent. I have a feeling this has been going on in kitchens from one end of the globe to the other for millennia.

Once I started making my own ravioli, I realized what a labor of love it was for my mother to sit for hours rolling out dough, portioning the filling, sealing and crimping. Only then did I finally get it. It is the labor and the love that make these tasty treats so much more than just something to eat. Just like the Asian families who gather around the table to make mountains of dumplings to celebrate the New Year, the value of these dishes is in the sharing.

I encourage you to try these recipes as group projects. Make an assembly line of fillers and crimpers and make batch after batch of memories that will last much longer than the recipes themselves.

Butternut Squash Ravioli

4 dinner servings or 6 first courses

Ravioli are the kind of labor intensive foods that you only want to make by hand for the people you love. My mom would make them on special occasions but we were fortunate to have several places in our neighborhood where we could buy fresh pasta. I love to make the butternut squash version in the fall when there are plenty of squash to be had at the farmers’ markets. The butter/sage sauce contains the essence of fall flavor.

INGREDIENTS

DOUGH:

2 cups semolina

2 eggs

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon olive oil

Water

FILLING:

One medium to small butternut squash

¼ cup mascarpone or goat cheese

¼ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

1 grating of nutmeg

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon white pepper

SAUCE:

1 stick butter

8 sage leaves

STEPS

1. For the dough: Put all ingredients except the water into a food processor. Pulse until blended. Turn on and slowly add water until a dough ball forms. Remove from the processor and knead into a smooth ball. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for 20 minutes.

2. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.

3. Cut the squash in half lengthwise and scrape out the seeds. Put cut side down on a piece of buttered aluminum foil on a baking pan. Bake for one hour until very soft. Allow to cool.

4. For the filling: Scrape out the squash and spread it on the baking sheet. Return to the oven for another 10 minutes until the pulp is drier. Remove from the oven and cool. Put the squash pulp into a food processor with the other filling ingredients and process until smooth. This should make about 2 cups of filling. Refrigerate until ready to fill the ravioli.

5. Divide the dough into 6 pieces. Take one piece at a time and coat liberally with semolina flour. Roll out into a 4-inch-wide strip using a flat rolling pin or a pasta roller. If you are using a ravioli mold, lay the first sheet over the mold. Fill each slot with about 1 tablespoon of the filling. I usually brush some water along the edges to help the ravioli seal. Cover with a second layer of dough. Use your rolling pin to gently press and seal the two layers together.

6. If you don’t have a ravioli mold, you can simply lay out a strip of dough 4 × 12 inches. Place tablespoons of the filling at even intervals about 1/4 inch from the near long edge and starting about 1/4 inch from the side. Brush some water on the dough around the filling and fold the dough over. Carefully press between the mounds to seal. Cut the individual ravioli and crimp well along the three sides.

7. Gently add the ravioli to a pot of boiling water. When the water comes back to a boil, lower the heat and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes until the ravioli are floating. Meanwhile, heat the butter in a large skillet and when melted add the sage leaves. Cook gently just until the butter begins to brown. Add the cooked and drained ravioli and stir gently to coat. Serve with additional grated cheese.

Cheese Ravioli

4 dinner servings or 6 first courses

INGREDIENTS

DOUGH:

2 cups semolina

2 eggs

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon olive oil

Water

FILLING:

1 pound ricotta

1 egg

½ cup grated pecorino Romano cheese

4 tablespoons chopped Italian (flat leaf) parsley

Salt and pepper

STEPS

1. For the dough: Put all ingredients except the water into a food processor. Pulse until blended. Turn on and slowly add water until a dough ball forms. Remove from the processor and knead into a smooth ball. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for 20 minutes.

2. For the filling: Beat the ricotta cheese with the egg until well combined. Stir in the grated cheese, salt (not too much because the cheese is naturally salty) and pepper. Chop the parsley coarse or fine and fold into mixture. Refrigerate until ready to use.

3. Divide the dough into 6 pieces. Take one piece at a time and coat liberally with semolina flour. Roll out into a 4-inch-wide strip using a flat rolling pin or a pasta roller. If you are using a ravioli mold, lay the first sheet over the mold. Fill each slot with about 1 tablespoon of the filling. I usually brush some water along the edges to help the ravioli seal. Cover with a second layer of dough. Use your rolling pin to gently press and seal the two layers together.

6. If you don’t have a ravioli mold, you can simply lay out a strip of dough 4 × 12 inches. Place tablespoons of the filling at even intervals about 1/4 inch from the near long edge and starting about 1/4 inch from the side. Brush some water on the dough around the filling and fold the dough over. Carefully press between the mounds to seal. Cut the individual ravioli and crimp well along the three sides.

7. Gently add the ravioli to a pot of boiling water. When the water comes back to a boil, lower the heat and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes until the ravioli are floating. Drain and serve with with your favorite sauce and additional grated cheese.

Pierogi

Makes 24 to 36

There are as many spellings for these little Eastern European dumplings as there are fillings: perogi, perogie, pierogi, pierogie, pirohi, pirohy. Fill them with potatoes, cheese, sauerkraut, lekvar (prune or apricot butter), ground meat, mushrooms, etc. That means you can serve them as appetizers, main courses and even dessert. They are also a delicious and creative way to use leftover bits from the refrigerator mixed in with any of the above ingredients.

When we did the “E” IS FOR ETHNIC cooking marathon, Dr. James Baran came on the show to make what the children in his family used to call “poor doggies” because they misheard the name. He submitted the recipe in honor of his mother, Mary Baran.

INGREDIENTS

FILLING:

2 pounds farmer’s cheese

1 egg

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon sugar

DOUGH:

5 cups flour

3 eggs

1 cup plain mashed potatoes, nothing added

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup water, more or less

OPTIONAL INGREDIENTS:

Butter

Onions

STEPS

1. Mix all filling ingredients together well. Keep cold until ready to use.

2. Place flour on a large cutting board. Make a well in the center, add eggs, potatoes and salt. Mix together as for pasta. Add water 2 to 3 tablespoons at a time and knead the dough. Continue kneading until smooth and does not stick to the board. Allow to rest 5 minutes. Do not knead too much.

3. Divide the dough into 4 parts. Roll out 1 part at a time into 1/8- to 1/4-inch thickness. Cut out circles of any size you wish; a water glass works well. Place 1 tablespoon of filling on each circle and press edges together to form a half circle. Place on a floured piece of waxed paper. Bring 3 quarts of water to boil. Add pierogi and boil 3 to 5 minutes. Drain in colander.

Variations: Serve with melted butter to which 1/2 cup onions have been added. The cooked pierogies can also be fried in butter and onions until crisp. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Pork Dumplings

Makes 24

In the era before fast food restaurants on every corner, people didn’t eat out nearly as much. Trips to restaurants were reserved for special occasions. Now, it’s unlikely that anyone can get from home to work without passing at least three places to get a breakfast sandwich. We don’t even make our own coffee anymore! It’s a wonder the supermarkets can stay in business.

I distinctly remember the first food I ate that wasn’t homemade. That day, Mom hadn’t started dinner as usual around 4 o’clock. She just went about her housework and when we got nervous enough to ask, she told us Dad was coming home with a surprise. He came through the door a little later than usual carrying a large paper bag from which emerged peculiar white boxes with little metal handles. The aromas were tantalizing but totally foreign. From those small containers emerged the most exotic dishes: rice that was colored brown and mixed with peas and stringy things and even bits of scrambled eggs; a gooey looking mixture of vegetables with bits of meat and crunchy noodles for a topping; and long thin bones covered with reddish colored meat. I had my first taste of fried rice, chow mein and Chinese ribs.

On another special occasion we all jumped in the car and took the short ride to the neighborhood Chinese restaurant. At this particular place, you didn’t order individual items for each person. You determined the number of people and then selected an appropriate number of dishes from lists. Six people might order four dishes; two from Column A and two from Column B. I never remember there being a Column C.

On my son’s first trip to a Chinese restaurant, I was trying to pick something he would be willing to eat. In those days, his tastes were limited to chicken nuggets and pasta. We got him an order of dumplings because they seemed like the closest thing to ravioli. He loved them and still can’t get enough.

INGREDIENTS

FILLING:

½ pound fresh ground pork (you can substitute ground chicken or turkey)

3 tablespoons water chestnuts, cut in ⅛-inch dice

¼ cup scallions, finely chopped

½ teaspoon salt

1½ teaspoons sesame oil

Pinch of white pepper

1 tablespoon cornstarch

24 dumpling wrappers (these can be found in most supermarket produce sections and called wonton wrappers or skins. They come both round and square)

1 egg, beaten

2 quarts water

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon peanut oil

STEPS

1. In a bowl combine the pork with the rest of the filling ingredients. Refrigerate, uncovered, at least 4 hours.

2. Put 1 tablespoon of filling in the center of each dumpling wrapper. Brush the outer edge with beaten egg and fold the round in half, crimping the edge and pushing out any air bubbles. Cook the dumplings for 5 to 7 minutes in the boiling water to which you’ve added salt and peanut oil. Drain and serve with dipping sauce. See recipe on page 27.

Cabbage Dumplings

Makes 40 to 50

INGREDIENTS

FILLING:

2 cups finely chopped Napa or Savoy cabbage (some leaves reserved for steaming)

1 green onion, finely chopped

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

1 teaspoon fresh minced garlic

1 tablespoon seasoned rice vinegar

Dash of white pepper

½ teaspoon cornstarch

40–50 dumpling wrappers

STEPS

1. Mix all the filling ingredients. Lay out 6 of the dumpling wrappers on the table and put a teaspoon of filling in the center of each. Use your finger or a pastry brush to put a thin coating of water around the edge of the wrapper. Fold the wrapper over to form a half-moon shape and pinch the edges tightly to enclose the filling. It is traditional to gather one side of the dumpling into several pleats but it’s not necessary. Continue with the remaining wrappers and place the completed dumplings on a wax paper or parchment-lined tray.

2. Two ways to cook them: You can boil the dumplings by dropping them gently into a pot of boiling water. They will take about 10 minutes and will float to the top. But I prefer to use a steamer: Cover the bottom of your steamer with the reserved leaves of Napa or Savoy cabbage. Place the dumplings in the steamer and steam for 15 to 20 minutes. Serve with dipping sauce. See recipe on next page.

Pork and Shrimp Dumpling Filling

For 40 to 50 dumplings

INGREDIENTS

FILLING:

¼ pound ground pork

1 pound shrimp, peeled and deveined

1 green onion, chopped

1 small can water chestnuts, finely diced

1 clove garlic, minced

1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger

½ cup cilantro

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

1 dash of white pepper

STEPS

1. Place all the ingredients in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse until the shrimp is finely chopped and the ingredients are well mixed. Do not over process. Proceed as with the pork dumplings to fill and steam or boil.

Note: Once you have filled the dumplings, they can be frozen on a baking sheet and then put in a plastic bag for storage in the freezer.

Dipping Sauce for Dumplings

INGREDIENTS

⅓ cup soy sauce

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

1 teaspoon seasoned rice vinegar

¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)

Chinese Egg Rolls

Makes 40 to 50

Contributed by

Yu Ling Cheng Behr

Yu Ling: My family is from Taiwan, a beautiful island in Asia, rich in history, culture, tech and of course, food. The Taiwanese people are very welcoming and love to share about their culture and food. In fact, family recipes are a source of pride for many Taiwanese families. Because the island is small and highly populated, multi-generations live together in the same home and that is how family history and family recipes are passed down.

I learned to cook from my mother who taught me our family recipes as well as her own creations. Oftentimes, these recipes are simply taught orally in the kitchen with no written recipe. Cooking is also important in Asian culture because it brings family together for meals. Many dishes are served family style and that simple act of passing dishes and sharing deepens bonds between family and friends.

Egg rolls are one of my favorite foods. I love the crunchiness of the egg roll wrapper and the tasty mix of vegetables, pork and shrimp. In my opinion, it provides a well-balanced meal all in one wrapper. Sometimes I think this is how my mother convinced me to eat vegetables – by putting them inside an egg roll! I also appreciate the time I spend with my mother when we make egg rolls together. We can easily spend a day making hundreds of egg rolls. We talk and laugh as we make them. Recently, my young daughters, Catheryn and Caroline, started to help make egg rolls, so we now have three generations of women working together.

The best part about egg rolls is there is no set recipe. You can mix together the ingredients you like and make your own version. If you need a place to start, then I hope you’ll try my family’s egg roll recipe.

INGREDIENTS

1 head Chinese cabbage (shredded and diced)

1 carrot, grated

3 eggs

½ pound pork, thinly sliced (bite-size)

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon cornstarch

½ tablespoon sugar

½ pound baby shrimp

1 bunch green onions, diced

2 packages square eggroll wrap

Canola oil for deep frying (about 2 cups for a small saucepan)

Salt and pepper to taste

STEPS

1. Add a little oil in a pan and sauté cabbage and grated carrots until cabbage is wilted. You may add salt to taste. Using a slotted spatula, remove cabbage and carrot to a bowl. Be careful to drain as much liquid as possible from the cabbage (otherwise, the egg rolls will be soggy).

2. Beat 2 of the eggs and add a little salt and pepper. Heat up frying pan with a small amount of oil. Pour in egg batter and cook a thin layer of egg. Once cooked, remove to a cutting board and let cool. Once cool, thinly slice the egg and set aside.

3. In a bowl, mix pork, soy sauce, cornstarch and sugar. Then, lightly fry the pork until meat is cooked through. Set aside in bowl and let cool. Add a little oil to the pan and cook the baby shrimp. Set aside in bowl and let cool. Once all the ingredients are cool, mix the cabbage, carrots, egg and pork together.

4. Beat the last egg in a bowl. This egg will be the “glue” for the egg roll.

5. Carefully peel off an egg roll wrap. Turn it so it faces you like a diamond. Add the cabbage, carrots, egg and pork mixture in a straight horizontal line in the bottom third of the diamond. Add 2 to 3 baby shrimp and diced green onion (to taste) on top.

6. Roll the egg roll (similar to a burrito). Start with the bottom point, roll it over the inside toppings and continue rolling until halfway. Then fold the sides in and continue rolling. When you get to the top point, brush a little beaten egg to it and finish rolling. The egg mixture acts as “glue” and should hold your egg roll together. Continue making egg rolls until you run out of ingredients.

7. In a small saucepan, pour in the canola oil and turn the heat to mediumhigh. Carefully add 2 to 3 egg rolls into the pan and deep fry. Be sure to turn each egg roll over several times to avoid burning it. It’s important not to add too many egg rolls into the pan at one time. Enjoy!

Note: Egg rolls are also very easy to freeze. After rolling them, and before deep frying, put them on a baking tray lined with parchment paper. Set in freezer for 30 to 45 minutes or until egg rolls are frozen. Then put frozen egg rolls into a freezer zip bag. Since you already pre-froze them, the egg rolls should not stick together. When you’re ready to cook them, no need to thaw. Simply deep-fry them.

Manicotti

Makes about 15

The first time I decided to cook a meal for my friends I called my mother and asked her for the recipe for manicotti. Having made it a million times, she knew the proportions by heart: “First you beat a dozen eggs …” I knew I was in trouble because there were only going to be four of us for dinner and Mom had no idea how to make a smaller batch of the Italian crepes. Her recipe evolved because we purchased ricotta in three-pound tins and that made enough filling for five dozen manicotti.

Here’s a scaled-down version of Mom’s manicotti.

INGREDIENTS

CREPES:

1 cup flour

½ cup water

½ cup milk

¼ teaspoon salt

4 eggs

FILLING:

1 pound ricotta

½ cup grated pecorino Romano cheese

1 cup shredded mozzarella

2 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped

Salt and pepper

1 quart tomato sauce

STEPS

1. Whisk the crepe ingredients together and let rest for 1 hour. Heat an 8-inch pan over medium-high heat and coat with nonstick spray. Pour in just enough batter to cover the bottom of the pan. When the crepe is just dry, turn and cook for a few seconds more. Stack the crepes on a plate. If you are not making the manicotti immediately, you can cover the crepes with plastic wrap and store in the refrigerator for up to one day.

2. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

3. Mix the filling ingredients together. Spread about 2 tablespoons of the filling across each crepe and roll up. Place seam side down in a baking dish that has a layer of tomato sauce in the bottom. Spread a little more sauce along the top and sprinkle with additional grated cheese. Cover with foil and bake for about 25 minutes.

Kreplach

Makes 24

Another feature that is shared by many cultures is that they serve certain dishes only on special occasions. It doesn’t mean that you can’t have Sfingi di San Giuseppe in November but you expect to have it on March 19th. And so it is with this recipe for Jewish “dumplings” called kreplach. Except that, depending on who you consult, they will tell you the dish is traditional for Rosh Hashanah, Yom Kippur, Chanukah or Purim. I just think they are delicious and appropriate for any day when a soothing bowl of chicken broth needs a little elevation.

INGREDIENTS

DOUGH:

2 cups all-purpose flour

¼ teaspoon salt

2 eggs

4–6 tablespoons cold water

FILLING:

½ pound ground beef

1 medium onion, diced fine

¼ teaspoon allspice

Salt and pepper

2 quarts chicken stock

STEPS

1. Add the flour and salt to a food processor. Pulse a few times to distribute the salt. Add the eggs and pulse until a coarse dough is formed. Add the water 1 tablespoon at a time until a smooth dough is formed and cleans the sides of the processor. Remove and knead for a few minutes on a floured board until the dough is smooth and pliable. Cover in plastic wrap and let rest at least 20 minutes.

2. For the filling: In a small fry pan, brown the meat over medium heat, breaking the meat up with the back of a spoon. When the meat is no longer pink, add the onions and continue to sauté until the onions are very soft. Add the allspice, salt and pepper to taste and let the mixture cool.

3. Divide the dough in half. Roll out one piece on a floured board into a large, very thin square. Cut the square into 12 squares. Put a spoon of the filling on each square then fold in half to form a triangle. Crimp the edges tightly. Repeat with the other squares and then with the second piece of dough. You should have 24 kreplach.

4. Bring the chicken stock to a simmer and drop in the kreplach. They should be tender in 15 to 20 minutes. Serve 3 to 4 noodles in a bowl with the chicken stock.

Vegetarian option: You can make a cheese filling for the kreplach by sauteing the onions in a little butter until they are soft and then adding 1½ cups of dry farmer’s cheese.

Cheese Blintz

Makes 12

One of the benefits of growing up in Brooklyn was the incredible diversity of authentic cuisines. A quick ride on the subway brought you to the triumvirate of Chinatown, Little Italy and the Lower East Side. I was fascinated by the different flavors, textures and aromas coming out of these restaurant kitchens. At the Jewish deli, I feasted on potato knish, pastrami, crisp dill pickles, matzah ball soup, and this decadent dish which looks and tastes like dessert but is often eaten for breakfast or lunch.

INGREDIENTS

CREPES:

4 large eggs

1 cup flour

⅓ cup sugar

¾ cup milk

¼ cup water

1 teaspoon vanilla

FILLING:

1 cup ricotta cheese, drained

8 ounces cream cheese

¼ cup sugar

1 large egg yolk

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon vanilla

Pinch of salt

Butter

Preserves

Sour cream

STEPS

1. For the crepes: Beat the eggs well and stir in the flour. Add the sugar, milk, water and vanilla and beat until well blended and smooth. Let rest for at least an hour.

2. Heat an 8-inch non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. Drizzle in a little oil or a very small pat of butter and rub out with a paper towel. Pour in just enough batter to cover the bottom of the pan and swirl the pan to make an even crepe. Cook until the top is dry and the bottom is a light golden brown. Flip and cook for another 10 seconds on the second side. Remove from the pan and stack on a flat plate. Rub out the pan with the paper towel again and repeat until all the batter is used.

3. For the filling: Combine all the filling ingredients and mix until smooth. Place a crepe on your work surface and spoon a tablespoon or two of the cheese filling along the near edge. Fold in the sides and roll up to encase the filling and form the blintz.

4. Melt a little butter in a skillet and place the blinzes seam side down in a single layer. Cook until light brown and then turn over and brown on the second side. Serve with sour cream and preserves.

My Mum’s Stuffed Shells

6 to 8 servings

Contributed by

Maryanne Fello

When a person’s name is associated with a dish, that recipe becomes a remembrance and a legacy. Our friend Maryanne never shows up to a potluck or gathering of family and friends without a huge baking dish filled with these luscious stuffed shells. The dish is not complicated but the recipe is about so much more than ingredients and directions. Many thanks to Maryanne for her willingness to share this and all the wonderful memories contained within.

INGREDIENTS

1 box (12 ounces) jumbo shells

FILLING:

5 cups ricotta (46-ounce container)

2 cups shredded mozzarella

¾ cup chopped fresh flat leaf parsley, or ⅓ cup dried parsley

2 eggs

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon pepper

Optional: Cooked and drained spinach can be added to filling.

6 cups of your favorite tomato sauce (with or without meat)

STEPS

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

2. Boil shells al dente. Drain. Set aside to cool on tea towel.

3. For the filling: In large mixing bowl combine ricotta, mozzarella, parsley, eggs, salt and pepper. Mix well.

4. Cover bottom of large baking dish with sauce. Use a heaping teaspoon of filling to stuff each shell (being careful to drain any remaining water). Place shells in rows until pan is full – do not crowd. Cover center of each row of shells with sauce. Cover with foil and bake for 30 minutes. Allow to “rest” before serving. Easy and quick.

Samosas

Makes 36

Contributed by

Arthi Subramaniam

Arthi: Samosas cross all kinds of boundaries. In India, they show up at dinner parties dressed up and dainty on porcelain plates as starters and at the same time are ubiquitous at roadside chaat (snack) stands, where they are served on paper plates. They are a favorite among students returning from school as they are with office-goers of all ages who would have a samosa as a midday snack with masala chai or coffee. The triangular pastries are typically vegetarian, as they are filled with potatoes and green peas, but they also can be packed with ground chicken or lamb.

Every summer, when my twin and I would visit my great-grandfather in Bombay (now called Mumbai) he would take us to the beach and indulge us with our favorite street foods.

Samosa chaat (lightly crushed samosas topped with spiced chickpeas, fried vermicelli, green and tamarind chutneys and yogurt) and freshly squeezed sugarcane juice redolent with ginger were always on top of that list.

Homemade samosas were a rare treat when I was growing up in southern India because for one we could always buy it from the snack shop around the corner. Secondly, making them meant that my mother had to spend hours in the kitchen because no one in my family would stop at one or two or three.

My siblings and I would swoop down on them at tiffin (a light meal in the afternoon) and keep asking for more like there was no tomorrow.

INGREDIENTS

DOUGH:

3 cups all-purpose flour

¼ cup rice flour

1 teaspoon salt

¼ cup plus 3 tablespoons canola oil

1 cup water plus 1 tablespoon, at room temperature

FILLING:

1 tablespoon canola oil

1 medium yellow or white onion, finely chopped

1 serrano chili, finely chopped

1 teaspoon turmeric powder

1 teaspoon crushed fennel seeds

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground coriander

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon garam masala

½ cup frozen peas, thawed

Salt to taste

2 russet potatoes, cut into quarters, boiled with skin on and then peeled (should have some texture)

2 tablespoons fresh cilantro, finely chopped

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

Canola oil for frying samosas

STEPS

1. In a large bowl, add all-purpose flour, rice flour and salt and mix with fingers.

2. Add oil gradually and mix dough with hand until flour mixture becomes slightly crumbly.

3. Add water gradually and knead dough with hand for at least 10 minutes until it is smooth. If dough is hard, add a little more oil. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside for at least 30 minutes.

4. For the filling: In a sauté pan, warm oil over medium heat. Add onion and chili and cook until onion is slightly opaque and soft. Add turmeric, fennel, cumin, coriander, cinnamon and garam masala, and cook for 2 minutes. Add peas and cook for 2 minutes. Turn off flame, add salt and mix well. Remove pan from fire. Crumble boiled and peeled potatoes with hands and add to onion. Add cilantro and lemon juice and mix well. Set aside filling to cool.

To assemble:

1. Divide dough into 18 balls and cover with a damp kitchen towel or plastic wrap. With rolling pin, roll out each ball into 6-inch circle without using any extra flour. Then, using a pizza cutter or knife, divide the circle exactly in half to make 2 semicircles.

2. Fold 1 semicircle to create a cone by taking one edge and placing it to the other edge. Dip finger in water and moisten edges of round sides and gently press the sides together to seal them.

3. Stuff cone with potato-pea filling, making sure to push it down. Wet finger again and moisten the open inside edges of cone and press to seal them together. Make sure all the edges are sealed well; otherwise the filling will spill out when the samosa is fried.

4. Place samosa on a big plate and cover with a plastic wrap. Repeat steps for remaining semicircles. As you get to the 20th samosa, heat oil in a wok or 3-quart saucepan. Once oil is hot, fry samosas until they are golden brown.

5. Serve hot with fresh cilantro chutney and/or tamarind chutney.

Cilantro Chutney

My mom usually served samosas with a green chutney (made with cilantro and mint) and a sour-sweet tamarind chutney that had a spicy bite. But if she ran out of time, we would have them with her homemade ketchup.

These days when I make samosas, I follow my mother’s recipe for the potato-pea filling but with a few tweaks. I use less garam masala and add crushed fennel and ground cinnamon. If I am on a time crunch, I use puff pastry sheets instead of making dough from scratch. And yes, I too bring out the ketchup.

INGREDIENTS

2 cups cilantro, including leaves and stalks, coarsely chopped

½ cup mint leaves

½ serrano chili, chopped

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon ground cumin

STEPS

1. Blend all ingredients with a little water to a smooth chutney.

Tamarind Chutney

INGREDIENTS

4 teaspoons tamarind paste

⅔ cup water

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons brown sugar or jaggery

⅛ teaspoon chili powder

1½ teaspoons ground cumin

½ teaspoon salt