Читать книгу 100 Places in Cuba Every Woman Should Go - Conner Gorry - Страница 17
ОглавлениеI HAVE BIASES—WE ALL DO, those who claim they don’t are in denial. My personal bias (one of them anyway) is to recommend and patronize women-owned businesses whenever possible. My default for spending my hard-earned money extends to any business owned by society’s more vulnerable, including women and people of color, as well as any business pursuing an ethical, sustainable, and environmental agenda. While ethical and sustainable businesses are slow to take in Cuba’s sluggish economy where the bottom line is top priority and Cubans of color are under-represented in the entrepreneurial class, women are a primal force in the private sector; according to the latest statistics, 32 percent of private workers are women. The creativity and drive of Cuban women is evident everywhere you look—at home, work, in the street, and at play. If you’ve ever shared a meal cooked by a Cuban mom, you know they are magicians, inventing a delicious spread on a shoestring budget with minimal ingredients. When combined with a high-quality product or service, this thrift and savvy is what sets Cuban businesswomen apart.
Two places making their mark on the new economy are Clandestina and Pisco Labis, in Habana Vieja. For wholly original, handmade Cuban clothes, crafts, home accessories, and more, these boutiques are obligatory. Clandestina, with its motto “99% Cuban Designs” (according to the owners, 99 percent is more marketable and memorable than 100 percent), gained overnight fame after President Obama bought t-shirts for his daughters there. At $30CUC each, it’s not a place many Cubans can afford to shop, but for unique souvenirs, it’s worth making a special trip. Pisco Labis, meanwhile, is a cool collective of more than a dozen Cuban craftspeople where upcycled wine bottles are made into chandeliers, old jeans are transformed into fashionable A-line dresses, and candle stubs are repurposed into scented pillars. There’s a relaxed vibe here, allowing you to browse the two floors of merchandise at your leisure.
On the gastronomic side, Café Bahia, a block from the Cira García Hospital in Playa, is a guaranteed good meal no matter if you opt for the ceviche, fish of the day, or shrimp tacos. The maritime theme is simple, yet elegant and the outdoor deck shaded with a sail is a lovely perch to enjoy an ice cold lemonade or Cristal. Another simple place that excels at what they do is the Burner Brothers pastry shop (Calle C #719). Rather than two brothers, it’s actually a brother-sister team, with mom pitching in; Tony and Sandra taught themselves to bake, burning many of their first batches in the process (hence the name). Here you can try Havana’s best brownie, chocolate chip or oatmeal raisin cookies, mini-cheesecakes, blue cheese tarts, and other inventive delicacies. I won’t temper my assessment of Dulce’s Nancy with any wishy-washy language: there is simply no better cake to be had in the city than those that come from Nancy’s kitchen tucked away in a lush garden festooned with orchids. There’s no storefront, you just have to know she’s there, baking her heart out (Hidalgo #8 between Calle 2 and 4, accessed off the Plaza de la Revolución); tell her Conner sent you.
If you want to shed calories after so many sweets, there’s no better way than a bicycle tour with Vélo Cuba, a women-owned and operated bike shop. They have multi-lingual guides, rent bikes and do repairs. When you’re ready to be pampered, O2 Club tucked into a privileged corner of Nuevo Vedado, offers a full menu of manicures, facials, and massages provided in clean, modern facilities. Twin sisters Omara and Odalys (O2, get it?) founded this space in 2012 as a straight ahead spa; it has since grown into a multi-service center for health and well-being with courses, a café, and beautiful garden.
