Читать книгу Walking in Norway - Constance Roos - Страница 10

CHAPTER 2:

Travel Tips

Here I am, safely returned over those peaks from a journey far more beautiful and strange than anything I had hoped for and imagined - how is it that this safe return brings such regret?

Peter Matthiessen

GETTING STARTED

Tourist Offices

The Norwegian Tourist Board maintains offices throughout the world. Their free booklet, Norway, advises travellers on just about every important detail: passports, customs, currency, travel, hotels, and the like. Specific information on walking in Norway published by Den Norske Turistforening (DNT) (The Norwegian Mountain Touring Association) can be obtained from their Oslo office (see Appendix D).

Passport and Visas

To enter Norway if a citizen of the United Kingdom, the United States, Canada or Western Europe you need a valid passport, but no visa unless you plan to stay longer than 3 months. Your 3-month period is calculated from the time you enter any country in Scandinavia. Your passport must remain valid throughout the 3-month period. Your nearest Norwegian embassy will give you visa information.

Currency and Money

Norway once had the reputation of being the most expensive country in Europe. Price differences between Norway and the rest of Europe have now narrowed or disappeared. It’s not that Norway has grown less expensive; the rest of Europe has caught up with it. The total cost of visiting Paris, Stockholm or Copenhagen may easily exceed that in any part of Norway.

The Norwegian crown (krone) is commonly abbreviated as NOK. One Norwegian krone equals 100 øre. Coins come in denominations of 50 øre and 1,5,10, and 20 kroner coins; bills come in 50, 100, 200, 500, 1000 kroner amounts. Norwegians round off change to the nearest 50 øre. The Norwegian krone differs from the Swedish, Danish, and Icelandic kroner which are not accepted.

Post offices and banks exchange major foreign currency and traveller’s cheques. You will find money exchange offices in all major airports and railway stations. They offer the best rate for traveller’s cheques, but there is often a charge for cashing them. Major credit cards are accepted in most places in Norway, and at some full-service, self-service and unstaffed huts.

Customs and Duties

Cigarettes and alcohol may be brought into Norway in restricted amounts. These restrictions are usually not of concern to visiting walkers. Returning Norwegians tend to bring in the limit.

Language

Norwegian, like Danish and Swedish, belongs to the northern group of Germanic languages. A mixed group of the three nationalities freely converse among themselves, each speaking his native tongue. If you speak a Germanic language, such as English, German or Dutch, you will recognize a large part of the Norwegian vocabulary. Norwegian is not a language for the shy; many words are enunciated and spoken with great vigour. In addition to normal vowels, Norwegian has three additional ones: å, æ and ø, which come at the end of the alphabet. Do try to learn a bit of Norwegian, although pronunciation is notoriously difficult for the native English speaker. Because of the difficulty with pronunciation I have not found phrase books helpful.

The Sami in northern Norway have their own language. Sami is closer to Finnish than to Norwegian, and thus even more incomprehensible to the English visitor. When visiting Finnmark you will notice the unusual characters, accents and spellings.

Norwegians must now take English in school, and many, particularly if under 50 years of age, can communicate in English, but only at a basic level. Norwegians will want to practise their English language, but never assume advanced proficiency. English skills fade away as you travel deeper into the rural areas. In some of the more remote lodges, the guardian may not speak English. You’ll wish then that you’d learned at least the numbers in Norwegian!

Health

For entry into Norway from infection-free nations, such as Canada, the United States or anywhere in Western Europe, you need no vaccinations nor must you take any special medical precautions. A yellow fever vaccination is required if entering Norway from an infected area.

In case of illness, only visitors from Britain are covered by the Norwegian Health Plan. Ambulance and in-patient care is free; doctor’s visits, usually paid in cash, cost around £10. Chemists (Apotek) are open during normal shopping hours. In most towns an emergency pharmacy will serve you during closing hours. Prescriptions from foreign countries will not be honoured; you should bring plenty of your prescription medicines with you. Medicines should be carried in their original bottles, or you should carry a doctor’s letter of verification.

Time

Norway, like Sweden, Denmark and the rest of Western Europe, is one hour ahead of Greenwich mean time (GMT). Daylight savings time (DST), when the clocks are pushed ahead one hour, runs from the end of March to the end of September.

GETTING THERE

Train

Many international trains connect Britain and the European continent with Scandinavia via Copenhagen and Hamburg. Ferry trains run between Copenhagen and Oslo several times a day.

Air

Scheduled air services from Europe and overseas arrive in Oslo, Bergen, Kristiansand, Sandefjord, Stavanger and Trondheim. From overseas Air France, KLM, Lufthansa, Finnair and Icelandair will route you to Norway through their European hub city.

From the rest of Europe, SAS (Scandinavian Airlines Service) and foreign airlines work together to connect you easily to Norway, usually through Copenhagen. Direct flights or flights with convenient connections can be made from all major European cities several times a day. From Copenhagen you can connect to almost all cities in Norway.

From London, British Airways has flights to Bergen, Oslo and Stavanger. SAS operates from London to Bergen, Oslo and Stavanger and from Manchester to Oslo. Braathens SAFE, Norway’s major domestic airline (SAFE stands for the South Asian and Far Eastern routes of the shipping company), has flights between Newcastle and Stavanger, Bergen and Oslo. Other services to Norway from the United Kingdom are operated by Widerøe Norsk Air, Air UK and Dan-Air.

From the United States, SAS routes its flights from Chicago, Seattle and Los Angeles through its hub in Copenhagen. There is a daily flight from New York (Newark) to Oslo.

Ferry/Boat

There are major ship connections between Denmark and Norway, and you can reach Norway by sea from Britain, the Netherlands, Germany, Sweden and Iceland.

Bus

You can travel to Norway by bus from London via Amsterdam and Gothenburg. Other bus connections from Europe connect from Belgium, France, Spain and Denmark. Most regular bus connections from abroad connect with domestic bus services.

GETTING AROUND

Train

Rail travel in Norway by NSB, the Norwegian State Railway, cannot be faulted. NSB links up with bus and boat services from its southern tip to Bodø on the northwest coast. Several main railway lines combine to constitute 4000 kilometres of track. Around 775 tunnels and more than 3000 bridges carry the trains through the mountainous terrain, 76% of which run on a gradient, and 50% on curves.

The main Norwegian lines are Oslo to Bergen, Oslo to Trondheim, Trondheim to Bodø, and Oslo to Stavanger. There are connections to Sweden via Trondheim, Narvik and Oslo. The Bergen Line, considered one of the world’s most scenic train journeys, links Oslo with Bergen with an extension to Flåm, and runs 100 kilometres across the treeless Hardangervidda plateau. Connecting Oslo with Trondheim with a western branch to the Romsdalfjord, the Dovre Line crosses the Dovre mountains providing fine views of Norway’s inland countryside. The Roros Line connects Oslo with Trondheim via an easterly route through the famous mining town of Roros. The Nordland Line, one of the few trains in the world to cross into the Arctic, runs between Trondheim and Bodo. A rock pyramid at 66° and 67°N marks the train’s entry into the Arctic. The Sorland Line links the country’s southern peninsula and coastal communities with Oslo, Kristiansand and Stavanger. There are also local and commuter lines in Oslo, Bergen and Trondheim. Buses run in areas where there is no train service; they have replaced the secondary train lines.

In the Far North Narvik is served by bus lines from Bodø/Fauske and not by the Norwegian railway. Railways from Narvik connect with Stockholm via the Swedish railway, the Ofot Line, the northernmost railway in the world. Another Swedish line connects with the Norwegian railway east of Trondheim and runs to Stockholm.

Trains offer both first-class and second-class modern service. For all trains, you are required to make a reservation. Second-class, both clean and comfortable, is superior to the second-class rail travel in some other parts of Europe. You can take a compartment or berth for overnight trips, but be sure to reserve ahead. If you hold a rail pass, you will have to pay a small additional fee for your seat reservation. It is possible to send your luggage ahead to pick up later. When you collect your baggage, you must pay a minimal daily storage charge.

The NSB participates in a range of European ticket-pass plans. The Nordturist pass, purchased at any railway station in either Norway, Sweden, Denmark or Finland, entitles you to 21 days’ unlimited travel by train throughout the four countries. It also includes up to a 50% rebate on some ferries, coaches and hotels. Other passes available include the Eurail, Interrail, ScanRail and Rail Europe Senior. Many of these special-priced tickets must be purchased before you leave home. Some are for European citizens only; others are for non-Europeans. Families and seniors may benefit from special rates; off-peak, mid-week or green departure (see NSB schedule) fares can be a real bargain.

Air

Norway enjoys efficient and modern air services on non-smoking flights. SAS serves all major cities. The main domestic airline, Braathens SAFE, covers the country from Kristiansand to Tromsø with modern Boeing 737 jets. Widerøe and Coast Air land at smaller airports in the north and south. In July and August many routes have reduced rates. If you purchase your ticket in Scandinavia, SAS often advertises mid-summer special fares for domestic and international flights.

Car

Driving in Norway is not difficult and traffic is light. Your current driver’s licence is acceptable in Norway; an international driver’s licence is not required. Four-lane motorways are found only near major cities. Roads are well posted with information and directional signs. Hairpin turns are common, especially in western Norway. Norwegian law requires that you drive with dipped headlights, yield to the car on the right, use seatbelts in both the front and rear seats and never cross the unbroken line in the middle of the road. Laws against speeding, as well as driving and drinking, are rigorously enforced.

Bus

Buses provide frequent and efficient service throughout Norway. Where the train and coastal steamer end, the bus begins. Few settlements are too tiny or remote for a bus service. Nor-Way Bussekspress, which travels long distance routes, will carry you into northern Norway. You need no seat reservations and you pay the driver when you board. It is helpful to carry with you a copy of the Nor-Way Bussekspress timetable which covers the whole country. This does not cover the numerous local bus routes which connect with the trains and Nor-Way Bussekspress. You can obtain these times at local train and bus stations. Buses are less expensive than trains. Holders of an Interrail pass are entitled to a 50% reduction on Nor-Way Bussekspress, but not on local routes.

Taxi

Even the smallest towns offer a taxi (drosje) service. You may want to use one to reach walking areas after arriving by bus or train. Taxi stands are often found just outside the rail station. Taxis can be expensive, especially if they arrive from a neighbouring town.

Coastal Steamer

Since 1893 the renowned Coastal Express, Hurtigruten, has been carrying passengers, freight, cars and mail up and down Norway’s coastline. Flying the flag of the Norwegian Postal Service, the ships leave Bergen every day of the year on a 6-day voyage up to Kirkenes on the North Cape, near the Russian border. The round-trip takes 11 days and includes calls at 35 harbours. For many of these ports, the twice-a-day visits from the steamer (one heading north, one south) are their only link to the outside world. Locals and tourists alike take advantage of this unique service. This trip is outstandingly beautiful, but notoriously expensive, especially if you want a cabin. Deck passengers pay less, and may sometimes board without reservations. Taking the coastal steamer is a fine way to join some of the walks in this book, especially in northern Norway, such as those departing from near Finnmark, Narvik and Tromsø.

Coastal Boat Services

Car ferries and local boat services are an important part of the Norwegian transport system. Among the western fjords, ferries, hydrofoils and catamarans, carrying commuter traffic and cars, serve the western cities.

HELPFUL HINTS WHILE IN TOWN

Accommodation

All levels of accommodation, from world-class hotels to hostels, can be found throughout Norway. International hotels serve business travellers in the main cities of Oslo, Bergen and Trondheim. In the summertime, generally from 15 June to 15 August, most hotels halve their usual rates. Usually the higher priced the hotel in winter, the greater the discount in summer. Except at hostels the room rate includes a large buffet breakfast and the 22% VAT. All hotels in Norway are held to a high standard. If you are on a strict budget, camping is ideal. Campsites, with cabins and tent sites, are located throughout the country. The Norwegian Camping Guide is available from the Norwegian Tourist Board.

Hostels (vandrerhjem), meant for youths and families alike, offer a high standard of accommodation with reduced rates for members. Often a sheet sleeping bag is required; some may provide meals and others may be self-catering.

Business Hours

Business hours are generally 0900 to 1600 on weekdays with extended hours on Thursdays. On Saturdays, most stores close early between 1300 and 1500 and are closed on Sundays. DNT and associated touring offices are closed on Saturday and Sunday.

Mail/Post

Norwegian postal services are helpful and efficient. You can pickup mail, addressed c/o Poste Restante, at any post office in Norway. Bright red mailboxes, embossed with the trumpet symbol of the Norwegian Postal Service, are often attached on building walls at chest level.

Laundry

Coin laundries are expensive and can be hard to find, although tourist offices can help you locate them.

Electricity

The electrical current of 220 volts accepts two round-ended prongs.

Weights and Measures

Norway uses the metric system. Weight is given in grams and kilograms, and distance in kilometres. Prices for fruits and vegetables are often listed per 100 grams (pr/hg). Fruits such as grapefruit and kiwi are sometimes sold by the piece (stk).

Telephone

Using Norwegian pay phones, which take 1,5 and 10 kroner coins, can be awkward. Domestic calls cost a minimum of 2 kroner. Phone cards sell for about 35 kroner, but the special green telephones they require may be difficult to locate. For overseas calls, it is easiest to use an international calling card, since hotels often add a huge surcharge. From Norway, dial 095 and then the code for the country you are calling (44 for the United Kingdom, 1 for the United States and Canada) followed by the city code and number you wish to reach. Some full-service huts have pay phones. If calling to Norway from home, the country code is 47.

Shopping

At a store marked Tax Free for Tourists you are entitled to a refund of the value added tax (VAT) when purchasing goods over 300 kroner. To receive your refund, you must ask the store for your tax-free cheque and present it along with your purchases at your departure point from Norway. Refunds are given in Norwegian currency.

Food and Drink

Food is expensive in Norway, but there are several ways to cut costs when in town. A substantial breakfast, included in the cost of hotel rooms, can be enough to carry you through until the late afternoon. Bakeries sell low-cost pastries and bread. Cafeterias and other self-service restaurants are informal and less costly than moderately priced restaurants. Many restaurants have a daily special which is reasonably priced. For a large meal it is less expensive to eat at noon. Water in cities and in the mountains is safe to drink. Beer, spirits and wine are extremely expensive due to high taxes. Beer and soft drinks are sold at many full-service huts.