Читать книгу Chevelle Restoration and Authenticity Guide 1970-1972 - Dale McIntosh - Страница 9

CHAPTER 2

PREPARATION

The first thing you probably need to ask yourself is, “Do I have the skills and tools to do what I need to do?” Well, that depends on a lot of factors. What is your overall objective for the car? If the objective is to build a nice driver-quality car and you have some skills in bodywork and things mechanical along with the garage space to do the work, you probably have most of the skills needed. Major steps such as rebuilding the engine or transmission may require you to send the engine block, heads, etc. to a machine shop for cleaning and/or necessary machining of parts. You will also need confidence in your ability to reassemble it and get it running.

Many cannot afford to have a professional restoration done and decide to carry out the task between themselves and their buddies. Many say it is not possible, while many others enthusiastically accept the challenge. In reality, it can be done in most home garages using home mechanic tools. Yes, some items will have to be farmed out, but then again, even most professional shops farm out at least some of their work. Every month I get dozens of calls and e-mails at the shop asking me for help in how to restore their car.

All you need is a little space, some fairly basic tools, a little know-how, and lots of money, and you too can be successful at restoring your car. The fruits of your labor will be enjoyed for many years to come.

Set a Budget

The most important item I can stress when undertaking a project like this is to have a budget set and stick to that budget. Have the funds already set aside before the project is started. Nothing can be more harmful to a project then getting underway and then running out of money. The car will sit for months while more funds are being raised. In the meantime, other important items come up such as repairing the bathroom or taking a family vacation, and before you know it, the project is on permanent hold, making all the work and money spent to date mostly a waste of time. Seldom are projects picked up and started moving again, and more often than not the interest is lost and the car will once again sit and be forgotten as the excitement has worn off.

Gather Documentation

Once you have determined you are serious about the project, you must go back to the very beginning to when the car was first acquired. By this, I mean gather as much information, documentation, history, and photos of the restoration candidate before a single bolt is loosened.

The type of restoration you will be doing will dictate what information you must gather. If all you intend to do is restore the car bearing no resemblance to what it once was and then drive the heck out of it, then its history and documents are likely unimportant. However, if you intend to restore it to a show or concours level and duplicate exactly what it was coming off the assembly line, then items such as color, interior type, options, etc. will be very important, especially in preserving your investment.

Knowing its history will also help in explaining any hidden battle scars encountered during the tear down, as well as make it a little more interesting. It will also help in locating issues that may be there but until now have remained unseen. The more valuable the car, the more important the car’s history, documentation, old photos, owner history, and many other items will come into play.

Reference Sources

I strongly recommend purchasing as many books and reference materials as you can afford. Items such as assembly manuals, chassis service manuals, and model-specific books are priceless when doing a complete restoration. Wiring schematics for your year can be invaluable. While these are fairly generic and will not cover many options, they are still worth obtaining in color if possible.

Buy any manuals and reference material you can get your hands on. Chevrolet printed any number of manuals for a given model year, and there are good reference books that break down information such as paint codes, interior trim codes, engine codes, rear end codes, etc. to help you with your search for, and restoration of, that dream Chevelle of yours.

Road Test the Car

If the car is drivable, I have always found it very beneficial to take the car out on a road test. Check out every system, such as brakes, heater, radio, shifting, engine, etc., and make note of any issues no matter how small. This will help during the restoration process so that things like a non-functioning fuel gauge will be checked out and repaired before the dash is restored and set back in the car only to find out you forgot to fix it.

Engine, transmission, and rear end issues will also be helpful for the rebuilder to be aware of so that they can look for internal issues during the rebuild. Telling the rebuilder that the rear end made a clunking noise while going around a corner will alert them to make sure to find the cause.

Thoroughly Examine the Condition

Give the car a good going over, noting what can be saved and what needs to be repaired or replaced. If you find electrical items that do not work, such as the wipers, gas gauge, horn, turn signals, etc., it is best to fix them now if possible rather than to face the same issue when you are putting the car back together. If it is a wiring issue, fix it and make note of the fix so when you install that new wiring harness you can be assured the component worked before installing the wiring harness. If it is something like wipers not working, turn signals not working, etc., hunting gremlins after installing new wiring may not be the best way to go only to find out your wiper motor is bad or you have a bad ground in the light wiring. If the issue is the part itself, such as the fuel gauge or the tank sending unit, now is the time to note that and get replacement parts ordered or at least on the list of parts to find or order. Any engine, transmission, brake, or suspension issues can be addressed when it comes time to rebuild/replace those components.

An item such as this battery tray can be purchased later in the restoration if you deem it beyond saving, so we will be sure to add it to the list of things to thoroughly inspect. (Photo Courtesy Steve Lubkey)

Keep a list with the item needing repair/replacement. This will help you prioritize and keep track of what you still need to buy and do. Some things you will need pretty quickly; some can easily wait. Components that are relatively easy to find but will not be installed until late in the restoration can probably wait. If you need new brake components, those can probably wait until you begin work on the chassis and suspension.

Appendix A has a checklist sample of some things to look for. Many items on the checklist you will want to replace as a matter of safety, such as brake pads/shoes, front suspension pieces, tires, engine belts, hoses, etc. But, do not throw those old parts away just yet. You may need them to compare the replacement items you will be buying in the future to ensure those replacement parts are correct.

Note details of the car and write them down or photograph them. Details such as the paint lines on the clutch and brake pedals, how much of the pedal is painted, and how much is left natural will be helpful as you reassemble your restoration.

You may need to send the body or frame to a specialty shop for cleaning, stripping, and in many cases straightening. If you are confident enough to do the bodywork and chassis assembly, then by all means use that to save for potential cost to other areas of your restoration. You may even be fortunate enough to have paint skills and a safe place to paint your car. Even if you do not have painting skills, you can do the bodywork and prep the car to have it painted by an outside source and then reassemble the car yourself, often with the help and advice of good friends. Just remember, everything you have to farm out to an outside source adds time and money to your project.

Note details such as the paint lines on the clutch and brake pedals. While these are serviceable and can be cleaned, make note of how much of the pedal is painted and how much is left natural. Photos of details like this will be valuable when it comes time to refurbish the part and reassemble the car.

If you are planning to buy new wiring harnesses, be sure to have a list of all the options your car has such as air-conditioning, factory gauges, power windows, etc. to ensure your supplier can get you the correct harnesses. Use as many of the hundreds of online forums as you can. There are many knowledgeable people on these boards who can help answer your many questions, and you will be able to compare photos of similar cars to yours to help you in the disassembly or assembly process. Gather as many reproduction catalogs for your type of car as you can or use their online catalogs to shop for the best products, prices, and terms.

Repair or Replace List

As you take the car apart, check the pieces and determine if they can be used as is with a little cleanup or if they need to be repaired, rebuilt, or replaced. Separate the must-be-replaced items and make a plan for the timing of when they need to be ordered for installation. When possible, it is always better to repair an item if it can be repaired than to replace it with parts from a donor car or reproduction parts. It is good to remember that these almost 50-year-old cars were not built with the laser and robot precision that cars are built with today. Reproduction parts often are not up to the quality of original parts in fit and finish, so it can take quite a bit of tweaking to get them to fit properly. Aftermarket suppliers do not always have the same quality parts as originals. Even new old stock (NOS) replacement pieces, especially body panels, do not match the fit, finish, and quality of original body panels.

Factory Correct Parts

GM service replacement parts often are not the same as original parts. If General Motors discovers that a part can be serviceable for several years and/or models of GM cars, it will be sold by dealers. Often, tweaking is necessary to get them to fit correctly, and they may or may not have the correct casting number or even the casting date or markings for your specific application. There may have been a production change during the year, such as the 1966 and 1970 hood panels where only the later version is available.

Aftermarket suppliers are becoming more aware of the demand for correctly marked pieces and offer quality reproductions with correct markings, such as engine hoses, fuel lines, etc. One good example for 1970 of aftermarket versus original equipment body panels is this driver-side front fender.

The underside of the early version of the RPO ZL2 hood had different-shaped cutouts and no creases for a crush zone, which would have allowed the front of the hood to buckle on impact and distribute the energy.

The late version of the RPO ZL2 Special Ducted Hood Air system had different cutout shapes on the underside with horizontal creases to create a crush zone. Also note the four cutouts are a new design.

This late version of the underside of a standard SS domed hood had creases for a crush zone and redesigned cutout areas. The change from early to late occurred around the April/May time frame in most plants.

Note different cutout shapes and the horizontal creases to create a crush zone on the underside of this late version of a normal SS domed hood. Assembly plants would continue to use the early version until supplies of the early hood had expired.

This is the location of the two holes used on an original equipment driver-side fender to mount the windshield wiper fluid bottle.

Compare the original equipment driver-side fender with a typical after-market replacement. Not only are the two windshield wiper fluid bottle holes located incorrectly, but the overall bracing structure of the sheet metal itself is vastly different.

Find Discounts on Parts

I contact several different dealers to obtain the best price and terms for parts. Let them know that this is an ongoing project and work out the details beforehand. For example, many dealers offer a 10-percent discount on purchases more than $1,000. Let them know that in all likelihood you will not spend $1,000 on each order but will spend several times that over the coming year. In doing so, many will assign you an account number to ensure you get the discount every time you order regardless of how small.

One very important point I can make is not to always order based on price alone. Shipping costs, lead times, customer service, return policy, and product quality all come into play. Usually, there is a reason someone can offer you the lowest price, and it is not always to your benefit.

Find Work Space and Parts Storage

Set aside a work portion in your garage, barn, pole building, or your basement and ensure it is large enough to accommodate the entire restoration. Workable space and storage to perform the task—and not have it interrupted by garage sales or the family’s bikes, portable basketball hoop, and lawn equipment, etc.—is advisable. All that does is help deter your interest in completing the restoration.

Set up shelves to place items on once they are removed from the car and catalog them. I recommend buying quality zipper-type plastic storage bags in various sizes to accommodate various size parts as well as a permanent marker to label not only the bags but also the parts when applicable. Buying cheap bags does not work here, as they will tear easily, so go with quality heavy-duty ones. Label every bag with the contents, such as “right front fender bolts,” and put them onto a shelf near other bags from similar areas of the car. Never simply put all the bolts in a box or coffee can. It will only come back to haunt you later. String tags also come in very handy. Since I am often doing multiple cars at a time, I am in the habit of putting string tags on many parts, but it can also work well for the home restorer. You may not recognize that left front bumper support or those fuel line clips in six months.

Use plastic bags of various sizes for nuts, bolts, and any number of small parts. Use non-stick tape to keep smaller items together in a group, and use wire and string tags to label larger pieces. The labels will come in very handy in six months when you are ready to reassemble your Chevelle.

Large, portable storage boxes can be used to store larger pieces both before they are refurbished and after while waiting for reassembly. Engine pieces being sent out or stored, such as starter, carburetor, distributor, etc., can be stored in one container, while chassis and suspension pieces can be stored in another. All those plastic bags you’ve filled with small pieces can be stored in the larger boxes so they don’t get lost.

Photograph Everything!

I cannot stress this enough: take photographs, and take a lot of them. Let’s face it, with the advent of digital cameras and almost unlimited space on our computers for storage, there is no excuse not to take lots of them. I have more than 70,000 photos in my library and have only just started using my available disk space.

Check each photo after taking it to ensure it is in focus and shows what you want it to show. If you cannot read it now (yes, you know what it is … now) you will not be able to read it or recognize it when it comes time to identify the part. When taking photographs, pay special attention to detail more so than taking a picture to show your buddies or post on Facebook. These detailed photos will come in very handy during the reassembly process.

Take photos of everything, including how the wires were routed under the dash, quantity of alignment shims installed on a given suspension part, or as a reminder that a certain bolt was installed differently than one would assume. These are just a few of the many reasons why photos are so important.

Before I ship parts to a subcontractor, such as when having plating done, I lay the parts out, photograph them, and make a written list of all of the parts. This helps you, and it also helps the subcontractor know what parts they should have. This can also help ensure you get back the same parts that you shipped out originally. I also engrave many parts in an inconspicuous place with a job number or customer initials.

Factory Markings and Overspray

If you are restoring a car back to concours standards, then you should also document overspray, how primers were laid on, and how and where the factory sound deadener was sprayed on. These are just some of the things that will help the painter finish the car exactly how it was originally built. On original cars, I also use photos to document bolt-head logos to show how sometimes one bolt type was used on one side of the car, while a different bolt head was used on the opposite side as it was going down the assembly line.

Documenting inspection marks and paint daubs are yet another reason for taking photos. I photograph these areas before, during, and after the cleanup process. In the case of firewall markings, I duplicate what I find in a similar-colored crayon or grease pencil and then photograph it again to document it. From there, I make templates that can be precisely duplicated during the reinstallation process.

Keep a notebook handy and take notes. During the disassembly process, I make notes on parts that are missing, parts that cannot be reused and will have to be ordered, parts that need to be plated, etc. I also note any issues I encounter along the way that will need to be addressed at a later date. Another good step is to list the order in which something was taken apart, such as removing a complete dash to aid in the remounting of that particular item so that you do not forget a ground wire or bolt.

Gather Your Tools

Your skills will probably determine what tools you have on hand, can borrow from friends, or can rent. If you only own a small set of sockets, a nine-piece wrench set in a bag, a couple of screwdrivers, an adjustable 6-inch wrench, and a pair of pliers, you do not have the tools needed to rebuild your Chevelle. If your Chevelle shares the same garage with your family SUV, your kid’s bicycles, the washer and dryer, etc., you probably do not have the space to truly rebuild your Chevelle.

Not to put a damper on your enthusiasm for the project but, realistically, it takes more than enthusiasm. Sure, you can do small tasks such as adding custom wheels or adding some engine dress-up items in your cramped garage, but even a minimal restoration takes some skill, tools, and space to match your enthusiasm for the project.

For a restoration project, you will need a lot of specialty tools that you may only use once, unless you do a number of restorations. Air-powered tools such as impact drivers, paint guns, grinders, etc. require a quality air compressor and ancillary items such as air hoses and compressor filters. If you need to repair or replace body pieces including quarter panels or floorpans, you will need a spot-weld cutter, welder with supplies, cut-off wheels, grinder, etc. To blend the bodywork, you may need dollies, specialty hammers, fillers, sanders, etc. Plus, it can be invaluable in getting debris and trash out of those hard-to-clean areas and generally cleaning up the shop after work. The home-size 10-gallon compressor used to air up your tires or inflatable swimming pool is just not going to cut it. You will need at least a 50- to 100-gallon tank with at least 10 cfm at 90 psi to get any serious work done. A good hydraulic press will allow you to remove and install bearings, bushings, ball joints, and similar items. A quality bead-blast cabinet or portable sandblaster can quickly clean paint, surface rust, and years of crud off smaller parts.

Engine-Specific Tools

Rebuilding an engine, transmission, or rear end can also require specialty tools such as valve spring compressors, micrometers (both inside and outside), and dial indicators to measure piston top dead center (TDC) or gear backlash, and specialty pliers for those E-clips, C-clips, and various retainer clips. If you do not do a lot of engine, transmission, or rear end work, it will be easier to farm these tasks out to qualified shops.

Jacks

At least one good floor jack and at least two but preferably four or more jack stands are needed to raise the car off the ground and support the chassis. A set of car dollies can be of great assistance if you plan on moving your rolling chassis around your garage or shop as well.

Bench Grinder

A bench grinder with both grinding and polishing heads is handy for touch-up finishing and final polishing of trim pieces. Adhesives for gaskets, weatherstripping, and special lubricants for brakes, windows tracks, etc. will also be needed.

Naturally, if you do not have or cannot borrow or rent these items, you will need to find a reputable body shop that is willing to take on the project and do the work. It is often difficult to find a local body shop to do a good restoration or even a passable one. The bulk of their business is insurance collision repair, and your project can sit for months with nothing being done and parts getting lost. Get a solid estimate up front of not only the work to be done and a price but the time frame for its completion. Most body shops will not make near as much money on your restoration as they do on collision work, so your car will always be the second priority in their shop, sometimes making the project last years.

Taking on Someone Else’s Project

Probably 60 to 70 percent of all projects get stalled at some point, and owners decide to move on. Extreme caution should be taken if considering another owner’s project. There are many questions to consider including: How much work has been done, and is it quality work? How much of the original driveline is left, and is it all there? Were removed parts tagged or bagged? Few things are as daunting as buying a roller with the engine and transmission out of the car; no trim or windows on the body; 15 milk crates of parts; and a few coffee cans of nuts, bolts, small trim pieces, etc. and none of it marked.

A project that has been assembled is much easier to work with. You will know exactly what has and has not been done and if all small pieces are there. A car that you purchased in primer and were told is “ready for paint” is usually not, and you have no way of knowing if the prep work was done correctly. If they did not acid wash the metal and remove all traces of oil or other contaminants from the body prior to priming, the paint will never stay on the car.

If you started the project yourself and decide it is more than what you bargained for or decide you want a concours restoration rather than a simple rebuild to drive, ensure you have all of your pieces and parts sorted in such a matter that the shop doing the rest of the work has everything you removed and tagged. Decide up front if you want the shop to call you and see if you can locate any parts needed or if you will opt to let the shop track down the missing parts. Missing parts can often hold up one area of the restoration, but work can still possibly continue in other areas. One important fact to keep in mind is a restoration shop will always charge you more for a project you started and didn’t complete than one that was brought to them from the beginning. That is even assuming you can find a shop willing to take on your already-started project.

Where to Start

We are going to begin with the assumption you are doing a concours-quality body-off-frame restoration. If your plan is something less, you can adjust your plan of attack accordingly.

Once you begin your project, get organized. Tag and/or bag every piece you remove along with a note of when in the process it was removed, so you can reinstall the pieces in correct order. After you reinstalled the dash assembly is not the time to remember you need to replace/repair the heater controls or the radio. Get a quality digital camera and document disassembly details with photos. Download them to your computer after each work session and note what you did and any difficulties encountered in the day’s work. In six months or a year, when you are putting it back together, you will forget something or misremember how it came apart. I also make separate files for the photos to make them easier to find when needed, such as body, chassis, drivetrain, interior, etc.

Lastly, I cannot emphasize enough to save all of your old parts until the restoration is complete. Many times, I refer back to the original part when I receive a replacement or donor-car part. This will ensure that what goes back on the car will be similar to what originally came off. You may also be able to use parts of the old part if needed.

Even if you plan on farming out the entire process of restoring your Chevelle, you should be aware of the time, effort, materials, etc. that your selected shop must invest in the restoration. While the factory could build a complete car in four or five days, it took hundreds of employees at numerous subassembly stations to put the car together. Quite a number of those major parts, such as driveline components, came pretty much assembled by scores of other employees at other plants.

The assembly plants did not have to worry about patching rusted body panels, stripping old paint, tearing out old interior and wiring, or waiting for a third party to complete the assembly of a major component. A concours restoration can take months, even years, to complete from chasing down those hard-to-find correctly dated parts that were changed and/or lost long ago to the quality of a small team of experts to assemble the car and, last but not least, to your finances.