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Basic Ingredients

Chilies are indispensable in Sichuanese cooking. The commonly-used red and green finger-length chilies are moderately hot. Dried chilies are usually cut in lengths and soaked in warm water to soften before use.

Chili oil is made from dried chilies or chili powder steeped in oil, and is used to flavor some Sichuan dishes. Bottled chili oil is also available in Asian markets.

Chili paste consists of ground fresh chilies, sometimes mixed with other ingredients such as vinegar, garlic or black beans, and commonly sold in jars. You may make your own and store it in the refrigerator, or purchase ready-made chili paste in Asian markets and well-stocked supermarkets.

Dried black Chinese mushrooms are used widely in Asian cooking. They are easily available from the dry food sections in wet markets and supermarkets. They must be soaked in hot water to soften before use. The stems are removed and discarded; only the caps are used. Dry or fresh shiitake mushrooms are a good substitute.

Dried prawns are tiny, orange prawns that have been dried in the sun. They come in different sizes. Available in Asian markets, they should look orangy-pink and plump; avoid any with a grayish appearance or an unpleasant smell. Dried prawns will keep for several months.

Fermented bean paste (tau cheo or dou ban jiang) is a richly-flavored seasoning made from soybeans, similar to Japanese miso (which may be used as a substitute). The beans are fermented and salted and sold in jars. They vary in color from dark brown to light golden. The basic fermented bean paste contains only soybeans, water and salt. It is also possible to buy slightly sweetened versions or those with added chili. The beans are usually mashed with the back of a spoon before use.

Rice wine is used frequently in Chinese cooking. The best wine for Chinese cooking is hua diao rice wine, Japanese sake or mirin. A good alternative is dry sherry.

Sesame oil is pressed from sesame seeds that have been toasted, producing a dense and highly aromatic oil that can be used for cooking, marinades, sauces and soups, or as a table condiment. Its nutty, smokey flavor has become a hallmark of Chinese cuisine.

Sesame paste is made from ground, roasted sesame seeds and comes covered with oil in glass jars. It is quite hard and needs to be mixed with a little sesame oil or water to make it into a smooth paste. If you can't find it, use Middle Eastern tahini mixed with some sesame oil to give it a more pronounced flavor. Not to be confused with the sweet sesame paste made from black sesame seeds which is used in some snacks and desserts.

Sichuan peppercorns, also known as Chinese pepper or flower pepper (hua jiao in Mandarin) have a sharp pungency that tingles and slightly numbs the lips and tongue, an effect known in Chinese as ma la "numb hot."

Sichuan pepper-salt powder may be prepared by roasting 2 tablespoons Sichuan peppercorns in a dry pan with 1 teaspoon of sea salt, then grinding them to a fine powder. This makes an excellent table condiment.

Tofu is rich in protein and amazingly versatile. Silken or soft tofu has a very fine texture, high water content and tends to break easily. Firm tofu holds its shape better when cut or cooked and has a stronger, slightly sour taste.

Vinegar is used to balance flavors in sauces and to bring out the natural tastes of foods, almost always in conjunction with a bit of sugar; unless the recipe calls for a specific variety of Chinese vinegar, the best choices are rice vinegar or apple cider vinegar; red wine vinegars do not go well with Chinese food.

Wood ear fungus, is a thin, crinkly mushroom added to dishes for its crunchy texture. It is available both fresh and dried. Wash well and discard any hard patch in the center. Soak dried wood ear fungus in water until soft before using.

Soy sauce is brewed from soybeans and wheat fermented with salt. It is salty and used as a table condiment and cooking seasoning. Regular soy sauce is a light clear brown liquid with a salty taste. Black soy sauce is denser, less salty and adds a smoky flavor to dishes. Sweet black soy sauce is a thick, fragrant sauce used in marinades and sauces

Pork and Prawn Dumplings with

Chili Oil and Sichuan Pepper

250 g (8 oz) minced pork

250 g (8 oz) fresh prawns, peeled and finely chopped

4 spring onions, finely chopped

1 egg

2 tablespoons cornflour

2 teaspoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon minced or grated ginger

24 fresh or frozen round wonton wrappers

2 red finger-length chilies, sliced

2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves,

Sauce

3 teaspoons red chili oil

1 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon soy sauce

½ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon Sichuan peppercorn powder

1 Combine the Sauce ingredients in a small bowl, mix well and set aside.

2 To make the dumplings, combine the pork, chopped prawns, spring onions, egg, cornflour, soy sauce and ginger in a medium bowl and mix well.

3 Arrange several wrappers on a dry work surface and place a tablespoon of mixture onto the center of each wrapper. Using a pastry brush, lightly dab some water around half of the edge of the wrapper. Fold the wrapper in half and press the edges to seal. If not cooking immediately, lightly dust the dumplings and leave on a rack to dry without touching each other.

4 Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Slip the dumplings into the boiling water, and let them boil until they all float to the surface, which means they are cooked. Remove from the water with a slotted spoon and drain.

5 Place the hot dumplings in a serving dish, pour the sauce and stir gently to coat. Alternatively, serve the sauce separately as a dip. Garnish with the sliced chili and coriander leaves and serve immediately.

Serves 4

Preparation time: 30 mins

Cooking time: 5 mins

Place a tablespoon of filling onto the center of each wrapper.

Lightly dab some water around half the edge, fold the wrapper in half and press the edges to seal.

Fish Soup with Sesame and Fennel

This recipe provides a variety of therapeutic benefits, including eliminating phlegm from the body, strengthening spleen and stomach functions, and counteracting symptoms of colds and flu. Any type of white-fleshed fish may be used in this soup.

500 g (1 lb) fresh white-fleshed fish, such as sea bass or swordfish

2 tablespoons sesame seeds, dry roasted, then finely ground in a blender or food processor

2 tablespoons oil

1½ liters (6 cups) boiling water or fish stock (made from fish bouillon cubes)

1 baby fennel bulb, halved, cored and finely sliced, leaves reserved to garnish

Seasoning

1 teaspoon soy sauce

1 teaspoon sugar

2 teaspoons fennel powder

1 teaspoon salt

1 Rinse the fish and pat dry with paper towels, then cut into bite-sized pieces.

2 Place the ground sesame seeds in a shallow bowl, then toss the fish pieces in the sesame powder until evenly coated. Cover the bowl and allow the fish to rest in the sesame powder for about 2 hours.

3 Combine the Seasoning ingredients and set aside.

4 Heat the oil in a wok or large pot until hot and stir-fry the fish for 2 minutes, then immediately add the boiling water or fish stock. Return to the boil, then add the Seasoning and stir to mix.

5 Cover, reduce the heat, and simmer for 5 minutes. Serve garnished with fennel slices and leaves if desired.

You may also prepare this soup with fresh prawns that have been shelled and deveined. This is a good way to prepare fish or prawns for people with digestive problems; the fennel and sesame aid digestion, and the water provides plenty of fluid to carry it through the digestive tract.

Fennel bulbs are stumpy plants with thick stems. They have round bases that resemble large onions and have an aniseed taste. They are sold fresh in supermarkets. If fennel bulbs are not available, substitute parsley.

Serves 4

Preparation time: 20 mins

Marinating time: 2 hours

Cooking time: 10 mins

Clear Pork Soup with Daikon

Pork is a very popular meat in Sichuan and this is a favorite way to use pork to prepare soup. The preferred cut for this soup is what the Chinese call wu hua rou—literally "five flowered flesh"—which refers to the belly meat, or bacon cut, with its flowery pattern of fat and flesh. Leaner cuts may also be used. This is also a good example of how the famous Sichuan peppercorn can wake up an otherwise sleepy soup with its pungent flavor.

1 liter (4 cups) water, or chicken or vegetable stock (made from chicken or vegetable bouillon cubes)

4 slices ginger

2 spring onions, each cut into 3 sections

10 Sichuan peppercorns

1 daikon radish (about

250 g/8 oz), halved lengthwise, and sliced

300 g (10 oz) pork belly or bacon pork, or other tender cut, washed and cut into very thin slices

Sauce

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon sugar

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons rice wine

2 teaspoons sesame oil

1 Mix the Sauce ingredients well and set aside.

2 Bring the chicken or vegetable stock or water to a boil in a pot, and add the ginger, spring onions and peppercorns. Add the Sauce and daikon slices, and stir. Lower the heat to medium and simmer, covered, for 12 minutes.

3 Add the pork, stir, cover again, and simmer for 3 more minutes, then turn off the heat completely.

4 Before serving, discard the ginger and spring onions. Transfer the soup to a soup bowl to serve at the table, or ladle individual servings into bowls.

This soup may also be prepared with beef or lamb. The best choice from the point of view of health is lamb, because lamb fat is far more digestible and actually benefits the human liver and heart, rather than clogging them up. You may also try using fresh fish fillets cut into thin strips, in which case you should reduce the final cooking time (when fish is added to the soup) to only 1 minute. Fresh chopped coriander leaves or parsley may be sprinkled onto each individual serving as a garnish.

Serves 4

Preparation time: 15 mins

Cooking time: 20 mins

Hot and Sour Soup

There are many ways of preparing the famous Sichuan hot and sour soup. Heavily seasoned and chock-full of highly nutritious ingredients, it is particularly popular as a winter food. The recipe given here includes various meat ingredients, but an equally tasty vegetarian version may also be prepared (see note below).

100 g (4 oz) chicken breast

30 g (1 oz) Yunnan ham or prosciutto

1 cake firm tofu

30 g (1 oz) canned or fresh bamboo shoots (see note)

1 small carrot

4 big fresh or dried black Chinese mushrooms

30 g (1 oz) wood ear mushrooms

1 liter (4 cups) chicken or vegetable stock, or plain water

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon sugar

75 g (½ cup) green peas

2 eggs, well beaten

1½ tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons vinegar

2 teaspoons sesame oil

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon Sichuan peppercorn powder

2 tablespoons cornflour mixed with

4 tablespoons cool water

1 bunch fresh coriander leaves, chopped

6 slices ginger, finely shredded

4 spring onions, chopped

1 Poach the chicken and ham in boiling water for 2 minutes, then drain and set aside to cool. Shred finely with fingers or a sharp knife and set aside.

2 Cut the firm tofu, bamboo shoots, and carrot, and set aside.

3 If using dried mushrooms, soak them separately in hot water for 20 minutes and drain. Diced all the mushrooms, discarding the stems, and set aside.

4 Bring the chicken or vegetable stock to a boil in a large pot. Add the salt, sugar, peas and the reserved meat and vegetables and stir well. Return to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer for 3 minutes.

5 Slowly drizzle the beaten eggs across the surface of the simmering soup and leave without stirring for 1 minute.

6 Add the soy sauce, vinegar, sesame oil, black pepper and Sichuan pepper, and stir to blend for 1 minute.

7 Stir the cornflour and water again, then pour slowly into the simmering soup while stirring gently, and keep stirring until the soup thickens. Simmer 1 more minute, then turn off the heat.

8 Serve garnished with coriander leaves, ginger and spring onions.

Bamboo shoots are the fresh shoots of the bamboo plant, which make an excellent vegetable. Fresh shoots taste better than canned, but must be peeled, sliced and boiled in water for about 20 minutes before using. Pre-cooked sliced bamboo shoots, packed in water, can be found in the refrigerated section of supermarkets and are convenient and ready to use. Canned bamboo shoots should be boiled for 5 minutes to refresh before using.

For a vegetarian version, use vegetable stock or plain water and double the tofu and black Chinese mushrooms.

Serves 4

Preparation time: 30 mins

Cooking time: 30 mins

Noodles with Sesame Chili Oil

In addition to its delicious taste, this dish delivers a rich parcel of nutritional and medicinal benefits. The sauce contains sesame paste, which is an excellent source of essential fatty acids and benefits bowel functions. Ground peanuts, known in ancient China as "the food of the immortals", provide a quick source of energy, and Sichuan pepper assists digestion and assimilation of nutrients. The recipe below uses ordinary dried wheat noodles that may be purchased in any Asian grocery, but you may also use fresh noodles, as well as rice, buckwheat, egg, or any other type of noodle you wish.

300 g (10 oz) dried wheat noodles

1 teaspoon sesame oil

1 tablespoon coarsely ground roasted peanuts

2 spring onions, finely sliced

Sauce

3 teaspoons sesame paste

165 ml (²/₃ cup) water

3 teaspoons black soy sauce

1 teaspoon sugar

½ teaspoon Sichuan peppercorn powder

2 teaspoons red chili oil

1 teaspoon vinegar

1 To mix the Sauce, place the sesame paste in the bottom of a bowl and slowly pour in the water whilst whisking continuously to blend. Add the soy sauce, sugar and Sichuan pepper, while stirring continuously, then add the chili oil and the vinegar, and blend well.

2 Bring a large pot of water to a boil, add the dried noodles and cook according to the directions on the package.

3 Drain the noodles in a colander, rinse in cold water, drain, place in a large bowl, then drizzle on 1 teaspoon sesame oil and mix well.

4 Add the Sauce to the noodles and toss to mix well, then sprinkle on the ground peanuts and chopped spring onions.

5 Serve in a large serving dish at the table, or distribute equally into individual noodle bowls and serve.

While almost any sort of noodle may be used here, the best choice for both taste and nutrition are freshly made noodles, either from your local market or hand-made in your own kitchen. And if you like the tangy flavor of fresh coriander leaves, it makes a most palatable garnish for this dish. The possibilities are virtually endless!

Serves 4

Preparation time: 5 mins

Cooking time: 5 mins

Peashoots with Garlic and Ginger

500 g (1 lb) fresh Chinese peashoots (dou miao—see note)

2 tablespoons oil

3 cloves garlic, minced

2 slices ginger, finely shredded

Sauce

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon sugar

½ teaspoon Sichuan peppercorn powder

2 teaspoons rice wine

2 teaspoons sesame oil