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Chapter 2

Large Proud Finger Joints

Proud finger joints are yet another example of how the Greenes took an object of utility and turned it into a thing of beauty. There are a variety of uses for finger joints and each application demands a unique perspective to match the intended use. Visual weight and scale of the piece must be taken into account. If the application is for a major structural component, the fingers would be bold and expressive, as covered in this chapter, while fingers for a drawer, as covered in my last book, would be relatively restrained.

The triple finger joint used as the example here would easily apply to a fireplace surround or the base of a cabinet. One of the few examples of an original Greene & Greene design employing a finger jointed base is the letter case for the Ford House (1908). This piece was relatively small and meant to sit on top of a table. The fingers were accordingly scaled down to match the overall size of the design.

One of the few known examples of an original Greene & Greene design that used a finger jointed base is the letter case for the Ford House (1908). Courtesy of the Gamble House.

Our application here involves pieces that are much larger in size than the Ford Letter Case. In scaling the detail up to match the size of the design, I looked elsewhere within the work of Greene & Greene for larger and bolder fingers. The Gamble House entry and stairway offer some very good examples, each nuanced to its specific usage.

Keep in mind the example given here is but a starting point. Depending upon your application you may need to modify your fingers in a number of ways. Use your best judgment together with existing examples to determine what works best for your situation.

Gamble House finger joint as used on the entry stairway. Courtesy of the Gamble House.

Two slight variations of the finger joint as used on the main stairway in the Gamble House (1908). Courtesy of the Gamble House.

1. Back up the cut with fresh material to avoid blow-out.

2. First cut one side then flip edge for edge and repeat the cut from the other side.

Mill the Stock

To start with, mill some stock to 1" thick and 3¾" wide. Because the fingers extend proud by ¼" at each end, add ½" to the required overall length of any given project. Be sure to mill out some extra scrap to be used for setups.

Accuracy

My method for cutting the fingers works off the center of the stock. In other words, the stock is machined, then flipped—and referenced off the opposing edge for a subsequent step. As long as some simple guidelines are followed this method works very well and avoids the problems associated with tolerance error buildup.

First of all, the parts must be machined to precisely the same width and be dead on square. The stop used to set the cut must hold its position exactly. If it is bumped and moved even the slightest amount all subsequent cuts will be unacceptable. The cut must be backed up with a fresh material to avoid blowout. And this last one may seem simple, but it is a common cause for woodworking grief. Be sure the stock is accurately registered against the stop. The slightest bit of crud lodged in the way can cause big trouble. Blow out the area around the stop after every cut.

Cutting the Fingers

To start with, set up the widest possible dado in a sled, to a cutting height of 1¼". Clamp fresh back up material to the sled and set a stop to create a ⁷⁄₈" “notch cut.” Make a test cut with scrap material and check the cut for accuracy. If your dado head is good and sharp (unlike mine at this time), you should be able to make the cut without band-sawing away any of the material. If you are having difficulty pushing the material through, go ahead and relieve the cut first. Once a good cut is achieved, run the actual base stock, first cutting on one side then flipping edge for edge and repeating the cut on the other side.

A. Base Fingers

Layout for round-overs, ebony peg locations,and size of fingers.

3. Making matching fingers.

4. Lay out the centerlines.

To make the matching fingers, move the stop over so that it makes a cut ⁷⁄₈" in from the edge. Run some scrap stock making two passes (as before) first referencing off one edge then the other. There will be a small amount of material left in the center; for now just use a band saw to remove it. Test the cut against the previous cut for fit. Adjust the stop as necessary until the two pieces fit together with only a slight bit of friction. Run the actual base parts, referencing off both sides, then remove the stop and make one final pass to remove the uncut material in the middle.

5. Enlarge the hole incrementally.

6. Measure the hole as you get close to the correct size.

7. Remove the debris.

Cutting the Holes for the Ebony Plugs

It is easier to make ebony plug holes while the fingers still have their square reference. All holes are centered on the width of the individual fingers, but not on their lengths. Lengthwise, the holes are centered on the width of the mating base member. Start by laying out the centerlines as seen in the Base Fingers drawing.

For the ¼ x ⁷⁄₁₆" hole, also pencil in the furthest extents of the rectangular shape. Make the square holes, as described in Chapter 4. For the rectangular holes, first make a normal square hole in the center of the layout. Working out from the center, using both a square, or square saddle, and the existing hole to correctly register the punch. Enlarge the hole incrementally until the extended pencil lines are reached. Be sure to creep up on the pencil lines slowly and start measuring the hole as you get close. Use a dental pick or similar tool to remove the debris left from enlarging the hole. Alternatively, if a quantity of the same size rectangular hole is needed, you may opt to make the punch guide described in Chapter 4.

8. The radiuses for all the edges.

9. Extend the 1⁄8" radius into the inside corners.

10. Mark a centerline down the face of the finger.

Adding Shape to the Fingers

Refer to the Base Fingers drawing (above) and Photo 8 to apply the appropriate radiuses to all the edges. With a seesaw motion, use a folded piece of 150-grit sandpaper to extend the ¹⁄₈" radius into the inside corners where the router bit was unable to reach. Mark a pencil line down the center of the end-grain face of each finger. With a folded piece of 80-grit sandpaper, and again using a seesaw motion, blend the flat face of the finger with the radiused edge. Keep sanding until the pencil line is removed. Continuing with the 80-grit, blend all the edges around the perimeter of the face using a sort of flapping motion backed up with your thumb. Viewing the fingers from various angles in strong light should identify any facets or lines that need to be blended in. The end result should be a seamless transition from the flat sides to the pillowed face. Once the desired shape is achieved, follow through with the sanding up to 320-grit.

Assembling the Joint

Working first on the two opposing joints along a single side of the base, apply a small amount of glue on the mating surfaces and use a corner clamp or similar squaring device to hold the joint square. Run a single trim head screw (#7 x 1⁵⁄₈") into the cavity of the center rectangular plug hole. Do not run screws through the smaller two fingers—they tend to split easily. If you do choose to screw the smaller fingers, be sure to pre-drill and be careful not to sink the screw in too deep.

11. Using a seesaw motion, blend the flat face of the finger with the radiused edge.

12. Using a flapping motion, blend all the edges around the perimeter.

13. Use a single trim head screw.

14. The finished base finger joint.

Finish off the base by making and inserting the ebony plugs (see Chapter 4).

Any detail of a design should be used in context. The bold base fingers covered in this chapter are meant to be used specifically with a relatively large piece of furniture. Keep in mind the size and context of your project when choosing to use Greene & Greene style finger joints.

Do not feel the preceding is the final word on the subject. Use what has been laid out as a starting point. If you choose to replicate the fingers exactly as given, that is perfectly fine. If, on the other hand, you have a vision for something a bit different, that is perfectly fine as well. In any event, enjoy the process and let it take you where it will.