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Illustrations

Figures

Frontispiece: David Mould meets an eighteenth-century Kazakh warrior chief (batyr)

1.1. “New Yorkistan,” by Maira Kalman and Rick Meyerowitz

3.1. Uzbek bread stand in Osh

3.2. Kyrgyz komuz player at Osh bazaar, Bishkek

3.3. Consumer electronics aisle at Osh bazaar

3.4. Decanting cooking oil into soda bottles at Osh bazaar

3.5. Shirdaks for sale at Osh bazaar

3.6. Chess game in park, Bishkek

5.1. Traditional Russian house, Karakol

5.2. Russian Orthodox cathedral, Karakol

5.3. Chinese Dungan mosque, Karakol

5.4. Bus shelter near Karakol

5.5. On the road to Osh—with Jorobev outside truck stop

5.6. Kyrgyz man on horseback, Osh Harvest Festival

5.7. Kyrgyz herders, Osh Harvest Festival

5.8. Competitors in Ulak Tartyshy, Osh Harvest Festival

5.9. Competitors in Ulak Tartyshy, Osh Harvest Festival

5.10. Competitors in Ulak Tartyshy, Osh Harvest Festival

6.1. Mels Yeleusizov, the “can’t win candidate” in Kazakhstan’s 2011 presidential election

7.1. Lenin’s commercial arm

7.2. Pastor Gennadiy Khonin and Aleksandr Riel outside Lutheran church in Turksib district, Almaty

8.1. Bayterek monument, Astana

8.2. Palace of Peace and Accord, Astana

8.3. Ak Orda presidential palace, Astana

8.4. Nur Astana Mosque, Astana

8.5. Khan Shatyr, Astana

9.1. Trudarmiya survivor Maria Litke in Karaganda

9.2. Temirtau, city of metallurgy

9.3. Tonya Golubsova at her dacha

10.1. Traditional Russian house, Semey

10.2. Traditional Russian house, Semey

10.3. Dostoyevsky Museum, Semey

11.1. Viktor Simanenko knows his vegetables

Maps

1.1. Central Asian republics

2.1. Kyrgyzstan and Fergana Valley

2.2. Russian conquest of Central Asia

3.1. My Bishkek

5.1. From Bishkek to Issyk Kul and Karakol

5.2. From Bishkek to Osh

6.1. Kazakhstan

6.2. My Almaty

8.1. My Astana

10.1. Northeastern Kazakhstan and Polygon

11.1. Western Kazakhstan and oil fields