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Chapter 1

Coast Range

The Oregon Coast Range, which separates the Willamette Valley from the Pacific Ocean, is a rolling sea of second-growth forests that spreads across a contorted land of gnarled hills and stream canyons. Those streams support precious runs of steelhead and salmon, while Roosevelt elk wander the hills providing sport for hunters in the fall and viewing pleasure for visitors throughout the year. Unfortunately, despite plenty of worthwhile destinations, trails through these mountains have generally been few and far between. For the most part, local hikers have ignored this interesting country, thinking of it as only a depressing sea of clear-cuts between the city and the beach. But that attitude needs to change because there is plenty here worth seeing and a rapidly expanding network of trails for pedestrians to explore.

With their mild and famously wet climate, these mountains are probably the best place in the world to grow evergreen trees. In addition, the Clatsop and Tillamook State Forests, which administer this land, have traditionally focused almost exclusively on timber harvest, in an effort to maximize state revenues and produce jobs. In fact, until recently, recreation was almost completely ignored, since managers did not see this as part of their mandate. In the last decade or so, however, some of that thinking has changed, and, at least from a hiker’s perspective, all to the better.

After the monumental replanting efforts following the Tillamook Burns of the 1930s and 1940s, much of forest here is uniformly green and impressive, with just enough lingering snags to add scenic and historical interest. Those trees are now ready for harvest, however, so if you want to see this land without the scars of clear-cuts, you’d better hike the trails here soon. More important, now is the time to get involved in the efforts of the Sierra Club, the Audubon Society, and other environmental groups to save at least part of this beautiful landscape from the ravages of the chainsaw.

There are two main access roads into the northern Coast Range. From Portland, go about 20 miles northwest on U.S. Highway 26, better known as the Sunset Highway, to a road split. The main highway continues straight (northwest) toward the popular coastal resorts of Seaside and Cannon Beach. Along the way this highway provides access to the spectacular trail up Saddle Mountain and to several exciting new trails in the Clatsop State Forest. Turning left (southwest) at the road split, onto State Highway 6, gains you access to the much greater number of scenic trails in the Tillamook State Forest.

Saddle Mountain from upper viewpoint