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INTRODUCTION

Why visit the Vosges and Jura?

Imagine a landscape of rolling hills and deeply cut gorges, of ruined castles, villages with half-timbered houses, and a network of footpaths weaving through forests. All this and more can be seen in the Vosges and Jura. In some places it is possible to walk for hours in peaceful solitude, while in others, lively local towns provide a choice of distractions. This book describes a walking route linking this rich variety of landscapes, using well-marked paths to cross a slice of France.

The whole region has an excellent footpath system, well within the capabilities of any moderately fit person. These mountains are ideal for walkers, the summits being of modest height, and panoramic views make the breathless ascents worthwhile. The whole walk described in this book is a substantial undertaking, needing five or six weeks to complete, but even walking a few days along the route introduces you to some of these enchanting places.

Vosges landscape from Le Grand Ballon (Section 6)

In the north of the region the Northern Vosges is a land of tranquil forests where people are few and wildlife is undisturbed. Nature has eroded the sandstone here to leave spectacular rock pinnacles, often with the half-forgotten ruins of a medieval castle perched precariously above the treetops.

In the Central and Southern Vosges the forests have their own surprises. The enigmatic ruins of the Mur Païen and the nearby convent of Mont Ste-Odile are shrouded in legend and mystery (Section 4). Footpaths lead through the age-old winegrowing towns and villages on the edge of the Alsace Plain and up through the trees to open summit pastures. There is so much to discover here – do you linger to savour the charm of old Alsace, with its cobbled lanes and half-timbered houses, or do you press on up to the windswept hilltops, where the view over the patchwork plain extends out to the distant Alps?

Further south the limestone of the Jura lends its own unique character to the landscape. Isolated lookout points give wide views over the seemingly endless blanket of trees below. Elsewhere, rivers have cut down through the limestone to produce impressive gorge scenery, with narrow defiles leading between rocky crags. Joux Castle, surely one of the most stunningly sited strongholds in all of France, stands guard over one such narrow rocky cleft (Section 10). The rivers can form gentle backwaters where trout linger in shaded pools, or they can have more dramatic moods – at Saut du Doubs the thunder of rushing water can be heard long before the waterfall comes into sight (Section 9).

Special mention should be made of the wall of cliffs by Le Mont d’Or (Section 11), where the clifftop path provides magnificent vantage points over the expanse of the Swiss Jura.

This book is a practical guide to the principal north–south walking route through this varied landscape, along the GR5/GR53. The 687.5km (427-mile) waymarked path traverses the entire length of the Vosges, and then climbs up onto the plateau of the Haut-Jura before dropping down to Nyon on the shores of Lake Geneva (Lac Léman). The GR5 is one of the great walking routes across Europe, crossing the continent from the Dutch coast to the Mediterranean, and the route described here is the central section (518km), from the Vosges down to Lake Geneva. In addition, the GR53 in the Northern Vosges (169.5km) is described as an offshoot of the GR5 that allows walkers to complete the entire chain of the Vosges. These quiet hills of the Northern Vosges are often overlooked by visitors, yet have become a personal favourite of ours.

Landscape

In the Northern Vosges the low, rounded hills are mostly formed from eroded sandstone, but in places where it is more resistant to erosion, prominent rocky outcrops remain. These isolated high points make obvious defensive sites, and the sandstone castles built on them can look like extensions of the rock itself. Further south in the Vosges this layer of sandstone has been eroded away completely to reveal gneiss and granite, harder rock which makes up the higher land, the Ballons des Vosges (Sections 5 to 7), with massive, flat-topped summits and ridges. The east face of the range, which follows the fault line of the Rhine Valley, is steeper than the west and in places forms a line of impressive cliffs. Glaciation has left its mark on these hills. Valleys were widened in some places to form massive, bowl-shaped cirques which are now the sites of glacial lakes. A series of such lakes, including Lac Blanc and Lac Noir, lies just below the cliffs.

Above the forest, the tops of the hills are open pasture. The very highest pastures are naturally clear of trees as a result of exposure, but others have traditionally been kept clear by grazing. Below the forest, the lower slopes to the south and east are clothed in vineyards. Winemaking in Alsace dates back many centuries, and has given rise to a whole string of inviting little villages in the valleys.

South of the Vosges a mix of sedimentary rocks forms the low land around Belfort, where the GR5 goes through areas of farming and forestry.

Just south of Vandoncourt the striking rock arch of Pont Sarrazin (Section 8) is the first unmistakable sign that the path has reached the limestone that forms the basis of the scenery for the rest of the route to Lake Geneva. The limestone of the Jura creates a landscape distinct from the Vosges. Rivers have cut deep gorges and often flow underground through caverns. One of the highlights of the GR5 is where it follows the River Doubs as it flows through a series of wooded gorges along the Swiss frontier (Section 9).

Dames des Entreportes (Section 10)

The GR5 then climbs onto the high plateau of the Jura where the limestone extends to great depths. Folded by earth movements and split by faults, the whole region was scoured by ice so that the resulting plateau is far from flat, instead forming an undulating landscape at about 1000m, now largely covered by forest. Elevated lookout points such as Roche Bernard give expansive views.

The path leaves the plateau soon after crossing into Switzerland and descends quite steeply, the final few kilometres crossing the belt of flat fields surrounding Lake Geneva.

History

In 58BC Caesar led the Romans into battle just south of the Vosges and the Romans were to remain there for a further four centuries. Many towns can date their origins to this period; Nyon on Lake Geneva was founded by the Romans. Roads were built through some of the Vosges passes (Saverne and Donon) and a stretch of the GR5 dropping towards Nyon (Section 11) follows an old cobbled track that dates back to this time.

The eighth and ninth centuries saw the spread of Christianity and the founding of several abbeys, including that at Wissembourg.

The GR53 and GR5 through the Vosges lie for the most part in the region of Alsace, but south from the Ballon d’Alsace to the Swiss border the route runs through Franche-Comté. These regions have very different histories. Alsace, in particular, has a heritage that is part French and part German, and an overview of the various border changes helps to put the region’s identity into perspective.

Roman rule collapsed early in the fifth century and Alsace was invaded by the Alemanni from across the Rhine. The Alemannic language of these invaders was related to German, differing substantially from the language of the Franks, and although French is now spoken throughout Alsace, local dialects derived from this early Alemannic still thrive.

After the death of Charlemagne in 814 the land to the west became France and was separated from the German-speaking lands further east. In 870 it was agreed by treaty that Alsace should be joined to the German states to the east, and Alsace was to remain a part of this German confederation until 1648.

The region initially prospered, but by the 13th century central control was lacking and local landowners took advantage of the situation, vying with each other for power. Alsace became a mosaic of tiny ‘states’, and a consequence of this can be seen in the Northern Vosges today, where 30 castles, most of them now ruined, lie within the boundaries of the regional park: the GR53 passes a good selection of these strongholds.

Freundstein Castle (Section 6)

By the end of the 16th century prosperity was returning, with silver mines and wine production generating wealth in the region, but the outbreak of the Thirty Years War in 1618 brought a period of turmoil. The treaty that finally ended this conflict transferred significant parts of Alsace to France, and full integration followed, so that by 1697 the Rhine was declared to be the official French border.

Alsace was to remain a part of France until the Franco-Prussian War of 1870–71, when invading Prussian forces won a major battle near Wissembourg. Alsace was ceded to the German Reich and the ridge of the Vosges became the new Franco–German border. Old frontier stones from this era run alongside the GR5 (Section 5).

Early in World War I, major battles were fought in the Vosges at Le Linge and Hartmannswillerkopf, and trenches have survived to the present day. The GR5 passes close to these old front lines on two occasions (Sections 5 and 6).

World War I lines at Hartmannswillerkopf (Section 6)

German defeat saw Alsace pass back into French hands in 1918, but it was an uneasy peace. After the invasion in 1940, the Germans considered Alsace to be a true part of the Reich, not part of occupied France; many of the men were conscripted into the German army and sent to the Russian front. Alsace was retaken by the French during the winter of 1944–45.

To the south of Alsace the region that now forms Franche-Comté also has its origins in the same confederation of Germanic states, although this Germanic heritage is less visible in Franche-Comté today. As early as 1295 the region passed into French control, and there followed a period as part of an autonomous Burgundy.

From 1493 to 1635 Franche-Comté was a Spanish possession, although Spain had little effect on day-to-day life, and during this period France still laid claim to the region, making several attempts to annex it. French control was finally established in 1678 and Franche-Comté has remained a part of France ever since. While the lower lands around Belfort and Montbéliard have attracted industry and a dense population, the more exposed uplands of the Jura have always been sparsely populated.

Wildlife

The wide variety of habitats in the Vosges and Jura supports a wealth of wildlife. Although largely wooded, the region also has open highlands, gorges, river flood plains, lakes and wetlands, giving scope for many different plants and animals to thrive.

In the fields and vineyards at the edge of the plain, storks, the emblem of Alsace and once a common sight, had become alarmingly scarce, but now, thanks to captive-breeding programmes and other conservation efforts, the decline has been reversed. There is a good chance of seeing these elegant birds close to the GR5, particularly in the region of Ribeauvillé (Sections 4 and 5).

Storks on an Alsace rooftop

Rising into the hills, the extensive woodland cover provides shelter throughout for wild boar, with especially high numbers in the undisturbed corners of the Northern Vosges. Often the only sign that boar are nearby is the sound of something large but unseen crashing headlong through the undergrowth. Roe and red deer are to be found in the woods, but they slip away without creating such a commotion. The trees also provide shelter for red squirrel, often a much darker form than found in the UK. Dormice, beech marten, pine marten and wild cat are all present, but you need to be lucky to see them. The same goes for lynx, which were reintroduced into parts of Switzerland and spread to France from there, but numbers are low.

Wild boar are common in the Northern Vosges

The woodlands attract a variety of bird species, although it is not always easy to get good views among the trees. The black woodpecker, largest of the European woodpeckers, advertises its presence by characteristically loud drumming, or you may hear the raucous call of nutcrackers, large brown crows that inhabit conifer woods. The capercaillie, largest of the European grouse, breeds in the forests of the Vosges and Jura, but this shy bird is rarely seen, despite its size. One bird that may attract attention is the golden oriole. Its loud flutey call carries through the forest, with just a glimpse now and again of a yellow-and-black bird flying from tree to tree. The song of the nightingale can also commonly be heard in early summer, usually in lowland scrub. The woods also play host to Tengmalm’s owl, goshawk and firecrest.

The rich growth of small plants can be very attractive in areas of more open woodland, with periwinkle and aconites, and sweetly scented lily-of-the-valley and daphne. Bilberries too are common, and the annual harvest of berries is used to make tarte aux myrtilles, a popular local dish in the Vosges.

The edge of the forests up around the tree-line is favoured grazing for chamois. These small, goat-like animals with black-and-white-striped faces are native to various parts of Europe and were introduced to the Vosges in 1956. Since then they have maintained good numbers in the region of the Ballons. They tend to seek cover during the day, so early morning and late evening are the best times to see them, with the eastern slope below Le Hohneck a good place to go looking (Section 5). Chamois are also found quite widely in the Jura, particularly near Le Mont d’Or (Section 11) and on the slopes around Joux Castle (Section 10).

Out of the forests, in the upland regions, there is a chance to see larger birds of prey, including golden eagle, buzzard and kite, and the sandstone outcrops of the Vosges and the rocky cliffs of the Jura provide excellent habitat for the peregrine falcon.

On open pastures the yellow gentian is common. This broad-leaved, yellow-flowered plant, often several feet high, is found throughout the region, and extracts made from the roots are still commercially important for making liqueurs and herbal medicines (Section 11). The yellow daisy-like flowers of arnica are also collected for medicines, and it is common in some areas of the Vosges. Above the tree-line a range of Alpine plants can be found, with pasque flower, wild narcissus, martagon lily and globe flower giving a delightful splash of colour in season.

Gentians on Le Mont d’Or (Section 11)

When to visit

The altitude and inland position of the region result in summers that are hot, but not generally too hot for walking, and winters with snow cover typically from about November to the beginning of April. Unless you are equipped for winter walking it is better not to attempt the higher sections during this time. During the main holiday period, from mid-July to the end of August, popular centres can be busy. A dry spell in summer may be followed by a rainier autumn, but the glowing colours of the turning leaves and the bright, crisp, frosty mornings can make autumn a delightful time to visit.

Access

The nearest major airports are Strasbourg, Geneva and Basel, but it is also worth checking flights to nearby German destinations. TGV express trains from Paris serve Strasbourg, Mulhouse, Basel, Belfort and Geneva. By road, Strasbourg is about 650km (400 miles) from Calais.

Taking the section start points in order, Wissembourg, Niederbronn-les-Bains, Saverne and Schirmeck are all accessible using French railways (SNCF). Ribeauvillé no longer has a rail station, but is easily accessed by getting the train to Sélestat, then using the regular buses which link to the train service. For Mittlach, head for the rail station at nearby Metzeral, then complete the journey on foot (3km), or use the infrequent local buses.

Thann and Héricourt (for Brévilliers) are both served by rail stations, but further south, as the route crosses the Jura, access becomes more tricky. St-Hippolyte can be accessed from the rail station at Montbéliard, using Ligne B of the Mobidoubs local bus service. Villers-le-Lac is no longer served by a bus service, and the nearest train stations are Morteau in France, 7km away, or Le Locle in Switzerland (8km). The road from Morteau to Villers-le-Lac can be busy, and a taxi might now be the best way to access the town. Further south, Les Hôpitaux-Neufs has no rail station, but currently has a connecting bus (run by SNCF) linking the station at Frasne with the town. The final section end at Nyon is on the Swiss rail network.

Local transport

Local bus services are sparse, and often infrequent where they do exist. The sections of the route through the Jura are particularly poorly served, so if possible, it is better to walk sections 9 and 10 together. If doing part of the route, starting/finishing from a point on the rail network eases the arrangements.

Accommodation

The area has a wide range of hotels, although those in mountain resorts may be geared more towards the skiing season. Chambres d’hôtes are rooms in private houses, similar to bed and breakfast. When planning a trip it is a good idea to check the regional and local tourist office websites (Appendix D). Local tourist offices can answer questions about accommodation in their own area and can generally make bookings.

Gîtes d’étapes, which provide inexpensive accommodation for walkers, are common along the route. Most of them simply provide dormitories, although some offer almost hotel-like facilities, with meals and private rooms. (Note that a gîte d’étape is not the same as a gîte rural, which is not usually available for single nights.) There are also occasional hostels, either Youth Hostels or privately run.

Refuges (mountain huts) also provide inexpensive dormitory accommodation, but making use of them is not always straightforward as many have very restricted opening periods. Where such refuges are run by walking and skiing clubs they are often open continuously only during the high season, or may be available for group bookings only or reserved for club members.

Finally, abris (shelters) may have little more than walls and a roof – useful for anyone caught out in bad weather. Note that the many fermes-auberges in the Vosges – farms offering simple meals based on local produce – do not usually offer accommodation.

Camping

Camping is popular in France and most campsites provide good facilities at a reasonable cost, but some are only open for a limited period. Comprehensive lists of campsites are available from tourist office websites. Wildcamping is not a right in France and different communes have different regulations. Outside restricted areas, discreetly pitching overnight may be possible, provided it is well away from roads and houses.

Food and drink

In Alsace the German style of cooking is seen in the popularity of pork, especially sausages, and dishes such as choucroute (based on sauerkraut). Kugelhopf is a distinctive ring-shaped cake, and tarte aux myrtilles is made with the bilberries common on the hillsides of the Vosges.

Tarte aux myrtilles

The Jura has been famous for smoked meats since Roman times. The local products to look out for are sausages and hams, trout from the Doubs, and snails. Both the Vosges and the Jura have fine local cheeses and wines – Alsace is well known for its white wines, and the yellow wine of the Jura is particularly unusual.

Not every village has a shop, so a little forward planning of food purchases is required in some places, and you may have to carry food for a day or two. Be aware that many shops close for an extended lunchtime, which can cause considerable delay, but many, particularly bakeries, are open early in the morning. When buying meals there is a wide choice, from village bars to restaurants. A set meal, usually of local produce, can be bought at one of the many fermes-auberges to be found in the Vosges.

A ferme-auberge in the Vosges

What to take

Although the route does not involve any scrambling or climbing, some sections are rough and exposed, so good footwear and waterproofs are essential, and a hat and sunscreen are wise precautions. The basic walking tools of maps and compass, first aid kit, torch and water bottle are necessities.

For other packing requirements, much depends on accommodation and eating preferences. If using the many hotels and chambres d’hôtes along the route, little is required other than changes of clothing and personal items. If depending on gîtes d’étapes and hostels, add a sleeping bag. The cheapest and most flexible way of travelling is with a lightweight tent – even if you are not planning to camp every night, a tent gives an alternative if accommodation is a problem. A lightweight stove and utensils are worth considering.

Backpackers will be well aware that trips are all the more enjoyable if pack weight is kept down, so ruthlessly weed out any non-essentials at the packing stage. If camping, remember that many French campsites have laundry rooms, so there is no need to carry too many changes of clothes.

Maps

Relevant maps are listed at the beginning of each route section, and possible stockists are in Appendix D.

Four sheets of the IGN 1:100,000 (TOP100) series cover the route (Nos 112, 122, 137, 143). These maps are good for planning and in conjunction with this book can be used for route-finding, as GR paths are marked.

The IGN 1:75,000 (TOP75) maps are ideal for walkers, and cover the Vosges, but only part of the Jura, (Nos 012, 027, 028). The Club Vosgien has produced maps of the Vosges at 1:50,000, but other than these, IGN maps at 1:50,000 are not currently available for the area of the route. IGN 1:25,000 maps (TOP25) are available, these are very detailed and a large number would be needed to cover the whole route.

The maps in this guide are not meant to be sufficient for navigation – more detailed mapping information is recommended. The main place names and features on the sketch maps are shown in bold type in the route descriptions.

GR system and waymarking

The GR5 and GR53 are part of an excellent network of long distance footpaths in France, the Grandes Randonnées. Waymarking of GRs is generally with a standard system of marks. A red and white rectangle (white above red) confirms the route. A cross formed by a diagonal red line crossed out by a diagonal white line is used to indicate ‘incorrect route’. This system is used for the GR5 in the Jura, but the Vosges is an exception. Here, footpaths were waymarked before the nationwide system was developed, and the GR53 and the Vosges section of the GR5 are both waymarked with red rectangles.

Problems can arise where different routes intersect, for example, in the Jura, the GTJ (Grand Traversée du Jura) and the GR5 both use red and white waymarks. Waymarking is done by volunteers, and the standard is usually high. However, GR routes do change from time to time, either temporarily or permanently.

Once in Switzerland the waymarking changes to yellow diamonds. These apply to all footpaths, and this short section of the GR5 is not distinctly marked. The route is followed by looking out for the regular signboards with directions to particular places.

Doubs Gorge (Section 9)

Safety and health

UK citizens should currently obtain a European Health Insurance Card before leaving home; this entitles you to the same services as French citizens, although visits to doctors or hospitals are not completely free. In addition, purchasing suitable insurance is recommended, particularly for non-EU citizens. Another valuable source of advice and treatment of minor ailments is the pharmacie (chemist’s shop).

Vipers are present in the area so keep a lookout, especially when among vegetation. Unfriendly dogs might also be a problem, although we have never been troubled. In the unlikely event of snake or dog bites, seek medical advice. The walker should also be aware of the risk of contracting Lyme disease from tick bites. Current recommendations are to check for ticks at the end of the day, completely remove any that you find, and seek advice if inflammation or other symptoms develop.

Another possible hazard in France is hunting, and walkers should be aware of the possibility of shooting in the vicinity, particularly during the autumn season.

Your own first aid kit should provide treatment for foreseeable minor problems. In addition, a survival sack or lightweight tent could prove invaluable if injured, caught out by bad weather or benighted in the hills. The likelihood of weather problems can be reduced, but not eliminated, by checking the weather forecast (la méteo), which can be found in tourist offices or newspapers.

Over-enthusiasm at the planning stage can cause problems too. Experienced walkers will already know their own capabilities, but if you are new to long distance walking some trial days before setting off (with a full pack) might help. To enjoy the walk it is really important to keep your bag as light as possible. The first few days can be the hardest, so it is a good idea not to attempt too much at the start.

If the worst does happen, in France the emergency services can be contacted by phoning 15 (medical help), 17 (police), or 18 (fire brigade), or 112, the general (multilingual) European emergency number.

Enjoyment of the outdoors will always involve risk, and it is the responsibility of each walker to look after their own safety.

Language

Visitors do need some basic French, even if this is just provided by a phrase book. German is commonly understood in Alsace, where although the local people are fluent French speakers, many also speak Elsässisch, the Alsatian language.

Money

Cash-withdrawal facilities are more frequent in the larger towns. A walker on the Jura section of the GR5 will find it useful to have some Swiss francs as well as euros.

Telephones and internet

Mobile phone coverage is substantial but incomplete within the Vosges and Jura, and coverage maps can be found on the internet. Most public telephones require a credit/debit card or a pre-paid card. International dialling codes are 0044 (UK), 0033 (France), and 0041 (Switzerland).

Internet cafés are scarce, but many public libraries provide internet access, and wifi is available quite widely in cafés, railway stations and other public places.

Using this guide

We have divided the route into 11 sections of various lengths, and have tried to arrange section ends at places accessible by public transport. The outline at the beginning of each section gives an overview, with highlights of what you can expect to see and comments on walking conditions. If you are only planning to walk part of the route, these outlines may help you choose between sections. Some suggestions for where you might make overnight stops are included, although doubtless you will have your own accommodation preferences. Each section includes a sketch map and details of the relevant topographical map.

For practical planning of the walk a list of facilities available on the route can be found in Appendix C. This table lists possibilities for refreshment, or where to break your walk, and intervening distances. These possibilities are not exhaustive, but we have tried to include all the budget accommodation (campsites and gîtes) likely to be useful. We have also made a special effort to identify accommodation on the more isolated stretches of the route. Up-to-date information can be obtained from tourist offices and the internet, and we recommend that you use these sources to supplement this guide. Be aware that village shops may close, and restaurants and hotels cover a range of prices.

Contact information for accommodation can be found in Appendix E and tourist offices can be found in Appendix D. Hotel details are not given for places with their own tourist office (where there is usually a choice of hotels). In most cases a telephone number is listed, but where refuges are not permanently manned we have, where possible, listed an appropriate website for up-to-date contact information.

The detailed route description is divided into shorter subsections, each with an indication of distance and approximate walking time, assuming a fairly moderate walking pace. Note that distances have been assessed in kilometres, and where equivalent mileages are shown, these have been rounded and so are approximate.

The guide also gives a brief overview of some of the other long distance routes in the Vosges and Jura.

Traditional houses in Andlau, Alsace (Section 4)