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SECTION 1

GR53 WISSEMBOURG TO NIEDERBRONN-LES-BAINS

Obersteinbach

The small town of Wissembourg, with its timber-framed medieval houses, makes a pleasant starting-off point; the buildings crowding together along the River Lauter to give the old quarter a picture-postcard appearance.

Most of the route from here to Niederbronn-les-Bains is through woodland. The hills are always relatively low, the highest point being 580m. However, as the path follows a succession of hills and valleys, in total there is a good deal of climbing to be done. The high point at the lookout tower at Wintersberg gives views over the Black Forest and the vast undulating forests of the Vosges.

What is remarkable about this section of the walk is the succession of castle ruins passed on the way, many of them taking advantage of the isolated sandstone crags that are characteristic of the Northern Vosges. Fleckenstein Castle is perhaps the most visited, its substantial walls standing on a high pinnacle close to the German border. The GR passes close to at least eight other castles before reaching Niederbronn-les-Bains, and there are several more a few kilometres distant. Among them the ruins of Loewenstein and Froensbourg are worth special mention, as both are in spectacularly elevated locations.

The Northern Vosges is never overwhelmed by visitors, so this first section of the route promises an interesting and relatively undisturbed walk.

A strong walker could complete this section in two days, but this would start the whole journey with a very long day, and there is much to see en route. We suggest a half-day’s walk to reach one of the hotels at Climbach, then an easy day would reach Obersteinbach, with another very manageable day completing the section.

SECTION SUMMARY TABLE

Start	Distance	Ascent/Descent	Time
Wissembourg	8.5km (5 miles)	350m/170m	2hr 40min
Climbach	9km (5.5 miles)	180m/160m	2hr 45min
Fleckenstein Castle	3km (2 miles)	180m/240m	1hr
Froensbourg Castle	7.5km (4.5 miles)	50m/110m	2hr 15min
Obersteinbach	5.5km (3.5 miles)	270m/180m	1hr 45min
Windstein	7.5km (4.5 miles)	360m/110m	2hr 45min
Grand Wintersberg	4km (2.5 miles)	0m/400m	1hr 25min

SECTION 1

Wissembourg to Niederbronn-les-Bains

Start	Wissembourg
Distance	45km (28 miles)
Maps	IGN TOP100 sheet 112; TOP75 sheet 027; Club Vosgien 1:50,000 sheet 2/8

Wissembourg to Climbach, 8.5km (5 miles), 2hr 40min

Hotels, restaurants, cafés and shops in Wissembourg; shelter on Scherhol; refuge at Col du Pigeonnier; hotel/restaurants and bakery in Climbach.

The GR53 starts from the railway station in Wissembourg. Turn left along the road, following red rectangle waymarks and continue past a roundabout and up the D77. Fork right along Boulevard Clemenceau (D334). The GR53 soon leaves to the right along a footpath, with the river and town wall to the right.

The River Lauter divides into several channels to flow through Wissembourg, giving the old quarter a unique atmosphere. Considerable stretches of the town wall still survive, and surrounding streets are lined with handsome half-timbered buildings. The local museum, the Musée Westercamp, is itself situated in two fine 16th-century houses. As in the rest of Alsace, summer visitors will find buildings festooned with flowers, with the gardens in the centre of town adding to the colourful scene.

A footbridge crosses the river to the right, and a short diversion here reaches the picturesque older quarter of Wissembourg. The GR53 takes the path to the left, climbs up to the road and turns right. Turn left up Rue du Château d’Eau, then left again almost immediately towards Col du Pigeonnier. Follow left, uphill, on a more major road, until a waymark indicates a right turn up a track at the edge of town.

Continue uphill towards a mast, then go left at a T-junction, and right at a fork. Stay with this track for about 15min as it climbs gently to reveal a broad view over Wissembourg, then turn right, following a footpath that runs parallel to a road for over 1km.

At the parking area opposite the Maison Forestière Scherhol, turn right, then almost immediately left up the Sentier Edouard Ditenbeck. This soon reaches the remains of a redoute, a defensive earthwork dating back to the war of the Spanish Succession.

The GR53 crosses an adjacent parking area, heading for Scherhol Sommet, still accompanied by the bank and ditch of the old defensive system. Keep on the well-signed woodland path, turning left along a vehicle track and following the major path to the Scherhol junction.

Take the left-hand path, which leads past another embankment-and-ditch defensive work and an unlocked Club Vosgien shelter to reach the Col Du Pigeonnier refuge. Opening times are restricted, but there is an open shelter at the rear and accessible drinking water.

Below the refuge the GR53 takes the Sentier Robert Redslob, signposted to Climbach. This descends through the trees, turning off sharply left almost immediately to head downhill. After about 15min it joins a vehicle track. Turn left, then when another track comes in from the right, follow it ahead. In another 15min, turn right along the road into Climbach.

Climbach

Climbach to Fleckenstein Castle, 9km (5.5 miles), 2hr 45min

Restaurant in Petit-Wingen; café at Fleckenstein Castle.

Turn right up Rue de la Hardt, and at the end of the road follow the footpath tending left along the edge of a meadow and through woods to reach a road. The route turns left for a short distance, and then leaves to the right. At the far side of this stretch of woods, turn left down a farm track into the little village of Petit-Wingen, where the GR53 turns right by the restaurant. Follow the road up beyond the village and then, where it takes a sharp left turn, leave by a track to the right and very soon fork left onto a more minor track.

The route drops down to cross a stream, diverts briefly left along a lane, then takes a track up the hillside to the right. Continue to the Étang du Heinbach, then follow to the left of the étang (small lake) climbing steadily.

After the climb levels off, look for a track to the right and follow this down to a fork, where the route carries on downhill to Col du Litschhof, beside an open-fronted shelter. The crag of Loewenstein Castle lies just ahead. Take the middle vehicle track on the far side of the road, then leave by a footpath to the right, towards Hohenbourg Castle and Loewenstein Castle. This crosses one small track and goes quite steeply uphill before emerging onto a more level track below the castle rock. Turn left and continue uphill to Col du Hohenbourg.

The GR53 goes to the left here, but a short detour reaches the ruins of Hohenbourg and Loewenstein castles, two of the castles which make the Northern Vosges special. To visit them, take the footpath to the right, then immediately fork right along the red/white/red waymarked path. The scant remains of Loewenstein are spectacularly sited on a promontory, and Hohenbourg lies just along the ridge.

Returning to Col du Hohenbourg and the GR53, go downhill, and fork right, to reach the visitor centre in front of Fleckenstein Castle.

Fleckenstein Castle to Froensbourg Castle, 3km (2 miles), 1hr

Fleckenstein campsite (1km off route).

The GR53 carries on past the entrance to the castle, and drops to the left to follow a well-made footpath, with the castle rock up to the right. After a few minutes the route forks right to reach the D925 (Fleckenstein campsite is 1km off-route to the left). Cross the road and pass the end of an étang. At a choice of four paths, do not take the sharp left, but the second path that turns towards the left, as waymarked. This climbs steadily, crossing two tracks then turning left along a third for a short distance before leaving to the right.

Continue along this level track, but after about 25min, look out for a narrow path to the left dropping down through trees to Froensbourg Castle. It may look inaccessible, but narrow pathways along the rockface and a fixed ladder allow you to explore the site.

Froensbourg Castle, carved into the sandstone

Froensbourg Castle to Obersteinbach, 7.5km (4.5 miles), 2hr 15min

Hotels, gîte and restaurants in Obersteinbach.

Take the narrow footpath on from the castle, zigzagging uphill to join a broad track. Turn left and after only a short distance look out for a path to the right. This climbs up by a sandstone outcrop then rises, steeply at first, and emerges onto a vehicle track where the GR53 continues to the left.

Within minutes, leave by a footpath to the left, to reach a more major path. Follow this uphill to the right to Col de Hichtenbach, where there is a small shelter. Take the track left, signposted to Zigeunerfels, uphill to reach a crossroads. Go straight on, then leave the track by a substantial footpath to the right, signposted to Wasigenstein.

Turn left at a T-junction towards Zigeunerfels and follow this level track, but within 5min watch out for a footpath to the left. This passes the striking sandstone pillars of Zigeunerfels, then drops down to rejoin the track. Almost immediately, turn right to reach a road.

Cross over, and take the footpath which follows alongside the road for a few minutes, then rejoins adjacent to Klingenfels rock. Leave the road by a footpath into the forest, and almost immediately, at a junction with other trails, turn right and continue to Wasigenstein Castle, just off-route. This is another stark ruin perched on a sandstone crag, now partially hidden by trees.

Klingenfels rock

From the castle retrace your steps, fork right towards Obersteinbach, then carry on downhill, crossing a junction. Keep following the waymarks across pastureland to join the end of a lane, which leads into Obersteinbach.

Obersteinbach to Windstein, 5.5km (3.5 miles), 1hr 45min

Hotel/restaurant and chambres d’hôtes in Windstein.

Cross the main road and carry straight on, passing the gîte d’étape. Turn right, up Rue de la Glockengrube, and follow this out of the village and across some pasture.

WILD BOAR

Pastures and forest floors in this area often contain obviously churned-up patches where wild boar have been rooting for food or wallowing in mud. Boar are common in the forests of the Northern Vosges and popular quarry for huntsmen. Walkers rarely get a good view of these animals, which are most active at night, and if disturbed are usually quick to move away. They may hold their ground occasionally, particularly if they have piglets to protect, and the wisest course then is to retreat, as a boar, standing a metre high at the shoulder and weighing in the region of 300kg, is a formidable beast.

Enter woods, and follow the path ahead to a junction in a clearing. Take the small footpath ahead, signposted towards the ruins of Windstein, and when this meets a track, turn right to Col du Wittschloessel.

The route of the GR53 from here as far as Grand Wintersberg uses a multitude of forest tracks and paths. The route description sounds complicated, but waymarking is good and the route is not difficult to follow.

Go straight over the junction at the col, take the left-hand path uphill, then the lower, right-hand path at a fork. When the footpath emerges onto a forest track, turn left to Col du Wineckerthal. Take a footpath opposite then turn right almost immediately onto another track. At a broad fork go left, and then at the next fork, turn right.

On reaching Col du Petit Grueneberg turn left, then immediately take a footpath to the right, up into the woods. This path hairpins up to join a track and the GR53 leaves by an uphill path almost opposite. The route skirts the top of the hill and then drops down to meet another track. Turn right to pass the sign at Wassersteine.

Soon afterwards, follow waymarks leading off along a small footpath to the right, which descends through the trees to join a track. Turn left, then take a footpath to the right. At a fork take the left-hand path, following the waymarks to veer to the left downhill. The scattered houses of Windstein appear through the trees ahead. Turn right down a track to a junction at the edge of Windstein. The GR53 goes right, downhill, passing the path to Vieux Windstein Castle on the left, to reach the former Auberge Aux Deux Châteaux (now chambres d'hôtes). The Hôtel du Windstein is about 1km off-route down the road from here.

Windstein to Grand Wintersberg, 7.5km (4.5 miles), 2hr 45min

The route crosses directly in front of the auberge, passing between the buildings and leaving by a track up into woods. Take a path to the right, going uphill to Nouveau Windstein Castle. Follow the sign to Niederbronn, passing around the ruins, then turn right on meeting a track, which leads down to a minor road. Turn right. The road soon becomes a forest track. Leave by a footpath down to the left and very soon, take another path left. Continue downhill to the road at Vallon de Gruenenthal.

Cross over and go up the track opposite. About 5min later take a footpath down to the left then continue along the slope above a road for perhaps a kilometre, finally dropping down to join the road just outside Wineckerthal. Turn right into the village then leave by a minor road to the left, following this over a stream. Beyond the bridge turn right onto a footpath signed to Grand Wintersberg.

Cross an entrance track, then take a footpath uphill to the left, to a road. Follow the Route Forestière du Buchwald, opposite, to the house at Buchwald, then turn half right towards Col de Borneberg. Join a track and carry straight on but very soon leave to the left.

Look out for a footpath climbing steeply to the left, crossing two forest tracks. Where the path emerges onto a third, look to the right for the footpath continuing up the hill, and on meeting a larger track, go right.

Landscape of the Northern Vosges

The GR53 crosses a junction and meanders among beech trees, clearly waymarked, to reach a track. Turn left to Col de Borneberg and continue to the small shelter at Col du Pottaschkopf.

Just behind the shelter, take a footpath leading to Col de la Liese about 0.5km further on (the Club Vosgien chalet serves drinks on Sundays and holidays). Cross the road opposite the chalet and take a footpath, hairpinning upwards to the late19th-century outlook tower on Grand Wintersberg (580m). From this tower there is a fine view as far as the Black Forest.

Grand Wintersberg to Niederbronn-les-Bains, 4km (2.5 miles), 1hr 25min

Hotels, campsite, restaurants, cafés and shops in Niederbronn.

Follow the path signposted ‘Source Lichteneck’ and cross the next track (blue circle route). Very soon after, a sign directs the GR53 down a path to the left. (Do not continue straight on to Niederbronn by Camp Celtique.)

Hairpin down, cross two tracks and turn right down a third, then soon leave by a footpath to the right. Descend some steps and turn left for a short distance before taking a path to the right. Turn left and continue down this wooded valley.

On meeting a track, go downhill to a busy road. Turn left and pass the buildings of Source Celtique (the waters from this ancient spring are bottled, and widely available). The route soon leaves by a path up into woods on the left and reaches a road.

Turn right, downhill, towards the centre of Niederbronn-les-Bains (the uphill fork leads to the campsite, about 1km away). Turn right at the Passage Publique du Parc Grunelius, and where the tarmac ends fork left down to a street, then turn left to reach the centre of this lively little spa town.

ALSATIAN LANGUAGE

In the streets and shops of Niederbronn-les-Bains local people can sometimes be heard chatting in the local Alsatian language. This is widely used, especially in the north of Alsace, particularly by older people. It went into decline in the years after World War II, but more recently has been recognised as making a valuable contribution to local heritage.