Читать книгу Walking Los Angeles - Erin Mahoney Harris - Страница 11
Оглавление4 Venice Beach
Venice canals
BOUNDARIES: Abbot Kinney Blvd., Pacific Ave., Washington Blvd.
DISTANCE: About 2.25 miles
DIFFICULTY: Easy
PARKING: Free street parking is available on Ocean Avenue
Venice Beach may be the most distinctive beach town in all of Southern California thanks to its charming canals, which were built by real estate magnate Abbot Kinney in 1904 as an homage to the Venice in Italy. Unlike some other Westside neighborhoods, Venice Beach is more funky than fussy. That’s not to say that the people who live here, particularly in the areas that line the canals and the oceanfront, aren’t affluent, but it’s more affordable than Santa Monica next door, and one might argue that it has a good deal more personality as well. All that said, the neighborhood is just as susceptible to gentrification as any other: home prices have soared in recent years, and high-priced retailers have moved into the shopping districts. Nonetheless, the boho vibe is still very much alive and well.
Note: This walk can be particularly fun for both you and your pooch, provided it doesn’t get overexcited at the sight of ducks. If you do bring a dog, resist the temptation to remove its leash during the canal portion of the walk. Toward the end of the route, you’ll come to the Westminster Off-Leash Dog Park, where Rover can get footloose and fancy-free with his canine pals.
Walk Description
This excursion begins in the South Venice neighborhood, at the intersection of Venice Boulevard and Ocean Avenue. Begin by walking south on Ocean Avenue toward Linnie Avenue. Notice that the homes along this stretch of Ocean are all relatively modest in size and style, although one can’t help but wonder how long until these small dwellings are torn down and replaced with boxy mini-mansions, as seems to be happening in so many other Westside neighborhoods.
Turn right on Linnie Avenue.
Cross the bridge arching over the Eastern Canal, pausing on top to admire the interesting mix of homes lining the waterway. The houses here are decidedly grander than those on Ocean Avenue, ranging in architectural style from American Colonial Revival to modern to Tudor Revival.
On the other side of the bridge, make an immediate left to follow the sidewalk along the canal.
Follow the sidewalk as it turns right, taking you along Howland Canal. Ducks are everywhere, quackily going about their business, and small boats and canoes are docked in front of some houses. The homes along this waterway are all beautifully maintained, and each is distinct. Notable architectural styles here include Craftsman, Spanish Colonial Revival, Cape Cod, and modern stucco beach homes with huge picture windows.
Cross Dell Avenue and then pause in the shade of a giant pine tree adorned with hanging glass lanterns to bask in the tranquil, salt-tinged air of this remarkable neighborhood. It’s an interesting mélange, this blend of old-world Italy and funky SoCal beach-culture lifestyle.
Follow the sidewalk as it turns right at the corner of Grand Canal.
Turn right to follow the sidewalk alongside Linnie Canal.
Shortly after turning the corner, cross the pedestrian bridge on your left to the other side of the waterway, and then turn right to continue walking next to Linnie Canal. After crossing Dell Avenue, on your left you’ll see Linnie Canal Park, a small playground complete with a dedicated duck habitat. Residents manage to do quite a lot with their relatively small amount of lot space. You’ll see edible gardens, majestic shade trees, and notable sculptures adorning front yards along this stretch.
At the end of Linnie Canal, turn left to follow the sidewalk and you’ll notice two unusually large residences on your left, one on each side of the alley. These matching structures look like something out of an Austrian village and appear to be the largest homes on the canals.
Turn left to follow the sidewalk alongside Carroll Canal.
Turn right on Dell Avenue. When you reach South Venice Boulevard, you’ll spot a colorful mural depicting canal community life on the southwest corner.
Turn right on South Venice Boulevard and follow the sycamore-shaded sidewalk for a little under 0.5 mile to Abbot Kinney Boulevard. The Venice Farmers Market sets up in the parking lot in the median of South Venice Boulevard between Dell Avenue and Ocean Avenue on Fridays, 7–11 a.m.
Turn left on Abbot Kinney. This street has become a foodie’s dream in recent years with an influx of farm-to-table establishments like The Tasting Kitchen and Gjelina. If, however, you’re hungry for a tasty but decidedly more casual bite, you can’t go wrong with Lemonade, back on the corner of Abbot Kinney and Venice Boulevards.
Back Story: Venice of America Amusement Park
The area now known as Venice was originally founded as Venice of America by Abbot Kinney in the fledgling years of the 20th century. This themed resort town was built on reclaimed marshland and featured an amusement park, a heated indoor saltwater “plunge,” a miniature railroad, and more than 16 miles of canals, complete with Venetian gondolas and gondoliers. Unfortunately, expensive upkeep and the rise of the automobile meant that most of the canals were paved over by 1929, and the remaining six eventually fell into disrepair. Fortunately, those six were restored in the early 1990s, and today the neighborhood built around the canals is affluent and idyllic.
Continue along Abbot Kinney for 0.75 mile. This trendy shopping district pretty much exemplifies gentrification. While Abbot Kinney used to be decidedly quirky—some might even have called it gritty—the street’s bungalow storefronts now specialize in upscale casual-chic clothing, furnishings, and decor. In other words, if you’re looking for a crocheted bikini or a $100 hoodie, you’ve come to the right place.
Just before you reach Westminster Avenue, notice the low brick structure on the left with a faded metal sign that reads IRV’S FAMILY MARKET. The distinguished old building now houses art galleries and shops.
On the final block of Abbot Kinney, between Westminster Avenue and Main Street, you’ll come across The Cook’s Garden by HGEL, a nursery and garden-supply shop that supplies produce to area restaurants. Westminster Avenue Elementary School is across the street on your left.
Turn left on Main Street. This leg of the walk is a little drab compared with the thriving consumer mecca you left behind on Abbot Kinney but is punctuated with colorful murals. As you approach the corner of Westminster Avenue, you’ll see the Westminster Off-Leash Dog Park on your right. This is a good place to stop if you’ve brought your pooch along.
Cross Westminster and continue on Main Street about two blocks to the Windward Circle roundabout, which was a picturesque lagoon back in Kinney’s day, when more than 16 miles of canals snaked through the Venice of America.
At this point, you may choose to turn right on Windward Avenue, which will take you the few short blocks to the Venice Beach Boardwalk. Also known as Ocean Front Walk, this is a popular destination for tourists, skaters, and cyclists who like to cruise the waterfront. Sidewalk vendors hawk incense, T-shirts, and various tourist-targeted wares of questionable value. If you do take this detour, return the way you came to the corner of Main Street and Windward.
Walk south along the west side of the rotary to remain on Main Street.
Turn left on Venice Way and walk about a third of a mile.
Venice Way curves and becomes Ocean Avenue. Continue on Ocean Avenue to reach your starting point near the intersection of Linnie Avenue.
Venice Beach
Points of Interest
Venice Farmers Market Corner of Dell Avenue and South Venice Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90291; Fridays, 7–11 a.m.
The Tasting Kitchen 1633 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90291; 310-392-6644, thetastingkitchen.com
Gjelina 1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90291; 310-450-1429, gjelina.com
Lemonade 1661 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90291; 310-452-6200, lemonadela.com/locations/westside/venice
The Cook’s Garden by HGEL 1033 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90291; 310-944-1151, groedibles.com
Westminster Off-Leash Dog Park 1234 Pacific Ave., Los Angeles, CA 90291; 310-310-1550, venicedogpark.org